Factory Workshop Manual
Make
Honda
Model
Civic Sedan
Engine and year
L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995)
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This manual was submitted by
Anonymous
Date
1st January 2018
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Control
Module > Component Information > Locations
Power Door Lock Control Module: Locations
Front Of Driver's Door
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof/Moonroof Relay <-->
[Sunroof / Moonroof Relay] > Component Information > Locations > Moonroof Close Relay
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Locations Moonroof Close Relay
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof/Moonroof Relay <-->
[Sunroof / Moonroof Relay] > Component Information > Locations > Moonroof Close Relay > Page 11
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Locations Moonroof Open Relay
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS Main Relay >
Component Information > Locations
ABS Main Relay: Locations
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid Pump
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Brake Fluid Pump Relay: Locations
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Electronic Brake Control Module: Locations
Right Side Of Trunk
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 22
Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation
The main function section of the control unit performs calculations on the basis of the signals from
each speed sensor. It controls the operation of the anti-lock brake system by putting the solenoid
valves in the modulator unit into action for each front brake and for the two rear brakes. The
sub-function section gives driving signals to the pump motor and also gives self-diagnosis signals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 23
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair
Fig. 90 Control Unit Replacement
Refer to Fig. 90 when replacing the control unit.
1. Remove right side trunk trim panel. 2. Disconnect control unit connectors. 3. Remove control unit
mounting bolts, then the control unit. When control unit mounting bolts are removed, the control
unit's memory is
cleared.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Fail Safe Relay,
ABS / Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Front
Fail Safe Relay: Locations Front
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Fail Safe Relay,
ABS / Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Front > Page 28
Fail Safe Relay: Locations Rear
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Motor
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Motor
Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 33
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Fig. 10 Cooling Fan Relay Terminal Identification
1. Disconnect electrical connector and remove relay. 2. Connect ohmmeter between relay
terminals A and B, Fig. 10. 3. Meter should indicate no continuity. 4. Connect battery voltage
across terminals C and D. 5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between
terminals A and B.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Cruise Control Module: Locations
Left Kick Panel - Photo 53
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Blower Motor Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Page 42
Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Relay Test
- There should be continuity between the C and D terminals.
- There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
- There should be no continuity when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Page 46
Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection
Relay Test
- There should be continuity between the C and D terminals.
- There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
- There should be no continuity when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Photo 19
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Photo 19
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Photo 19 > Page 51
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Photo 31
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Page 52
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Relay Test
- There should be continuity between the C and D terminals.
- There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
- There should be no continuity when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Control Module HVAC: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 57
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 58
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 59
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 60
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 61
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 62
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 63
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 64
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 65
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 66
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 67
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 68
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 69
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 70
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 71
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 72
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 73
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 74
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 75
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 76
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 77
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 78
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 79
Control Module HVAC: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 80
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 81
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 82
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 83
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 84
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Control Unit > Component Information > Locations
Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Locations
Daytime Running light Relay/Control Unit
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Control Unit > Component Information > Locations > Page 110
Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection
Input Test
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Control Unit > Component Information > Locations > Page 111
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Fog/Driving Lamp Relay: Locations
Behind Dash, Right Of Steering Column
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Flasher Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Hazard Flasher Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Horn Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Horn Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash - Photo 62
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Turn Signal Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Relay Box: Locations Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Bottom Of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box
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Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 129
Relay Box: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 130
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 131
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
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Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 132
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 133
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
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Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 134
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 135
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 136
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 139
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 140
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 141
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 142
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 143
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Body Control Module: Locations
Rear Of Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Instructions > Page 151
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Instructions > Page 152
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Instructions > Page 153
Fuse Details Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 154
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Instructions > Page 155
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Instructions > Page 156
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 157
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 158
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Instructions > Page 159
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Instructions > Page 160
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Instructions > Page 161
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Instructions > Page 162
Symbol Identification
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Instructions > Page 163
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Instructions > Page 164
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Instructions > Page 165
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Instructions > Page 166
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Instructions > Page 167
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Instructions > Page 168
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Instructions > Page 169
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Instructions > Page 170
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Instructions > Page 172
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport
OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors
(Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.*
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E
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DTC P0A94 thru P0157
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DTC P0158 thru P0400
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DTC P0401 thru P0562
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DTC P0563 thru P0748
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DTC P0750 thru P0977
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DTC P0979 thru P1193
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DTC P1253 thru P1459
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DTC P1486 thru P1585
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DTC P1586 thru P1678
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DTC P1679 thru P1860
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DTC P1861 thru P2238
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DTC P2240 thru U0073
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DTC U0100 thru U1288
Disclaimer
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217
Engine Control Module: Locations
Right Kick Panel
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Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The engine control module takes the inputs from the various sensors and signals to manage the
fuel injection, timing control and ignition.
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Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
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NOTE: When there is no code stored, the MIL will stay on if the service check connector is jumped.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Locations
The PGM-FI relay is located under the left side of the dash.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The PGM-FI main relay actually contains two individual relays. The relay is located at the left side
of the cowl. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, which supplies the battery voltage
to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is
energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running, to
supply power to the fuel pump.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Main Relay And Harness Inspection
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Programed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) Main Relay actually contains two individual Relays. This
Relay is located at the left side of the Cowl. One Relay is energized whenever the Ignition is "ON"
which supplies the Battery voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM), power to the Fuel
Injectors, and power for the second Relay. The second Relay is energized for two seconds when
the Ignition is switched "ON", and when the Engine is running, to supply power to the Fuel Pump.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay.
- If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay.
- If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay.
- If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
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FLOWCHART PART 1
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FLOWCHART PART 2
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Locations
PGM-FI Main Relay: Locations
The PGM-FI relay is located under the left side of the dash.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The PGM-FI main relay actually contains two individual relays. The relay is located at the left side
of the cowl. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, which supplies the battery voltage
to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is
energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running, to
supply power to the fuel pump.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Main Relay And Harness Inspection
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Ignition Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Ignition Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 504
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Page 505
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 506
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 507
Ignition Control Module: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 508
Ignition Control Module: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Perform an input test for the ignition control module (ICM) after finishing the fundamental
tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions systems. The tachometer should operate
normally.
1. Remove the distributor ignition cap, the distributor ignition rotor, and the leak cover.
2. Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground.
There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.
^ If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground.
There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check: Ignition coil.
- WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the ICM.
^ If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
5. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
6. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM.
7. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Removal
1. Disconnect the 2-P and 8-P connectors from the distributor.
2. Disconnect the ignition wires from the distributor ignition cap.
3. Remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder bead.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 511
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil, then install it.
2. Slip the distributor into position.
NOTE: The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both
offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.
3. Install the mounting bolts and tighten them temporarily. 4. Connect the 2-P and 8-P connectors
to the distributor.
5. Connect the ignition wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light. 7. After setting the
timing, tighten the mounting bolts.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 512
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Overhaul
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 513
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 514
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Reassembly
Reassemble the distributor in the reverse order of disassembly.
1. Install the distributor ignition rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (Toward the
No. 1 cylinder).
2. Slip the thrust washer and coupling onto the shaft.
3. Check that the distributor ignition rotor is still pointing toward the No. 1 cylinder, then align the
index mark on the distributor ignition housing
with the index mark on the coupling.
4. Drive in the pin and secure it with the pin retainer.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Air Bag Control Module: Locations
Right Side Of Driver's Footwell
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 519
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable. 3. Pull down carpeting from both sides of
front console and remove harness protector. 4. Disconnect SRS control unit connector. 5. Remove
four SRS control unit mounting bolts, then control unit from vehicle. 6. Reverse procedure to install,
noting the following:
a. Tighten attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition switch in
On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
7. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Starter Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Hitachi Starters
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
Fig. 5 Starter Relay Terminal Locations
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 5. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 526
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Mitsuba Starters
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
Fig. 10 Starter Relay Terminal Locations
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 10. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 527
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Nippondenso Starters
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
Fig. 13 Starter Motor Terminal Locations
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 13. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - A/T > Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Control Module: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Heated Glass Element Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Rear Defogger Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Rear Defogger Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Power Window Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Power Window Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Open/Close Switch
Sunroof / Moonroof Switch: Locations Open/Close Switch
Center Rear Of Roof
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Open/Close Switch > Page 549
Sunroof / Moonroof Switch: Locations Tilt/Close Switch
Center Rear Of Roof
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations
Left Rear Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 554
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
The brake system indicator light comes ON to alert the driver that the parking brake is applied, or
that the brake fluid level is low. It also comes ON as a bulb test when the engine is cranked.
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 15 to the brake
system light. If the brake fluid level is low, the brake fluid level switch closes, providing ground to
the circuit. The brake system light then comes ON, alerting the driver to a low brake fluid level in
the brake master cylinder. (Check brake pad wear before adding fluid.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
The pressure switch monitors the pressure accumulation in the accumulator and is turned off when
the pressure becomes lower than a prescribed level. When the pressure switch is turned off, the
switching signal is sent to the control unit. Upon receiving the signal, the control unit activates the
pump motor relay to operate the motor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake
Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Brake Switch
Below Rear Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake
Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch > Page 562
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Pin Switch
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Front
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Front
Behind Left Front Wheel (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Front > Page 567
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Rear
Behind Left Rear Wheel (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 568
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
The speed sensor is a non-contact type which detects the rotating speeds of the wheel. It is
composed of a permanent magnet and coil. When the gear pulsers at each wheel turn, the
magnetic coil in the speed sensor alternates, generating voltages with frequency in proportion to
wheel rotating speed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Toothed Ring
Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Toothed Ring
INSPECTION OF THE TOOTHED RING
1. Check the front and rear pulser for chipped or damaged teeth.
2. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and pulser all the way around while rotating the
pulser.
Standard: 0.4 - 1.0 mm (0.02 - 0.04 inch)
NOTE: If the gap exceeds 1.0 mm (0.04 inch), the probability is a distorted suspension arm which
should be replaced.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Toothed Ring > Page 571
Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Wheel Speed Sensor
TESTING THE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1. Check pulser for chipped or damaged teeth and replace as necessary.
Fig. 82 Measureing Front Speed Sensor Air Gap
2. Measure air gap between sensor and pulser all the way around while rotating driveshaft by hand,
Fig. 82. If gap exceeds its maximum specification
at any point, the knuckle is most likely distorted and should be replaced. Air gap should be
0.016-0.039 inches.
WHEEL SENSOR SIGNAL CONFIRMATION
1. With ignition switch off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
anti-lock brake checker tool Nos. 07HAJ-SG0010A or 07HAJ-SG0010B, or equivalents.
2. Raise and support vehicle so all four wheels are off ground. 3. Turn ignition switch to on position,
then turn mode selector switch on anti-lock brake checker to 0. 4. With transaxle in Neutral
position, rotate each wheel at least one revolution per second and confirm that its respective
monitor light on the checker
blinks as wheel is rotating. Rotating wheel too slowly will produce only weak blinks of monitor
lights. Perform tests in shaded area, as monitor lights may be difficult to see in bright sunlight. If the
front wheels won't spin fast enough to get monitor indication, start engine and slowly accelerate
and decelerate front wheels.
5. If any monitor light fails to blink, check the suspected sensor, its air gap, wiring and connectors.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Front
Fig. 108 Front Speed Sensor Replacement
Refer to Fig. 108 when replacing front speed sensor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 574
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Rear
Fig. 113 Rear Speed Sensor Replacement
Refer to Fig. 113 when replacing rear speed sensor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations >
Photo 9
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 9
Right Side Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations >
Photo 9 > Page 581
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 14
Right Front Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations >
Page 582
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
PURPOSE/DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a temperature dependant resistor (thermistor) that
convents the engine coolant temperature to voltage and outputs it to the engine control module.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations
Water Pump
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations >
Page 586
Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Drain cooling system and remove cooling fan temp switch from the thermostat housing. 2.
Connect suitable ohmmeter between sensor terminals. 3. Heat thermo sensor in suitable solution
while observing ohmmeter. 4. Meter should indicate continuity when temperature reaches
190-0.03degreesF. 5. Allow sensor to cool while observing meter. Meter should indicate no
continuity as temperature drops below approximately 182-188degreesF. 6. If sensor fails to operate
as outlined, sensor is defective.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Temperature Sensor (Gauge) > Component Information > Locations
Temperature Sensor (Gauge): Locations
Right Front Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise
Control) <--> [Brake Switch (Cruise Control)] > Component Information > Locations
Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control): Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise
Control) <--> [Brake Switch (Cruise Control)] > Component Information > Locations > Page 594
Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control): Testing and Inspection
1. Disconnect 4-P connector from switch.
Fig. 15 Brake Light Switch
2. Check for continuity between terminals, Fig. 15. 3. Adjust pedal height if necessary or replace
switch if defective.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise
Control > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Disconnect 2-P connector from switch.
Fig. 17 Clutch Switch Components
2. Check for continuity between terminals, Fig. 17.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Switch Test/Replacement
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Main Switch Test/Replacement
1. Carefully remove switch from instrument panel and disconnect electrical connectors. 2. Remove
cruise control switch from switch panel.
Fig. 29 Main Switch Test
3. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to tables, Fig. 29.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 602
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume Switch Test/Replacement
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the positive cable. 3. Ensure wheels are in straight ahead
position, then remove lower instrument panel cover.
Fig. 37 Test Harness "C" Installation. W/Air Bag
4. Disconnect cable reel harness 6-P connector from air bag harness, then connect test harness C
only to cable reel harness, Fig. 37.
Fig. 38 Set/Resume Switch Test. W/Air Bag
5. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 38.
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Fig. 39 Set/Resume Switch Cover Removal
6. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 39.
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 604
Fig. 40 Set/resume Switch Steering Wheel Location Test. W/Air Bag
7. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 40. 8. If there is no continuity
in any position, replace set/resume switch. 9. If there is continuity in every switch position, replace
cable reel.
10. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 605
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Shift Lever Position Switch
1. Remove front console.
Fig. 43 Shift Lever Position Test
2. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 43.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Air Conditioning Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Air Conditioning Switch: Testing and Inspection
A/C Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
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Blower Motor Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Blower Motor Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Blower Motor Switch: Testing and Inspection
Heater Fan Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Evaporator Temperature Sensor /
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Locations
Behind Glove Box
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Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
The A/C thermostat is located on the evaporator housing. The A/C thermostat turns OFF the A/C
compressor clutch if the temperature at the evaporator goes below 3°C (37°F). This prevents
condensation from freezing on the evaporator fins and blocking the air delivery into the passenger
compartment. If the temperature goes below 3°C (37°F) turning OFF the A/C thermostat, ground
will be removed from the condenser fan relay. The relay will deenergize removing voltage from the
condenser fan motor causing it to stop running.
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Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
A/C Thermostat Test
Connect battery power to terminal C and ground terminal B, and connect a test light between
terminals A and C.
NOTE: Use a 12 V, 3 W - 18 W test light.
Dip the A/C thermostat into a cup filled with ice water, and check the test light.
The light should go off at 37°F (3°C) or less, and should come on at 39°F (4°C) or more.
If the light doesn't come on and go off as specified, replace the A/C thermostat.
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Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Locations
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Locations
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
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Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied through fuse 35 to the A/C compressor clutch relay contacts at all times.
With the ignition switch in ON (II), voltage is applied to the coil of the A/C compressor clutch relay
through fuse 13. When you push the A/C switch ON, and the heater fan switch is in position 1, 2, 3,
or 4, a "ground" input is provided to the engine control module (ECM) through the A/C thermostat
and the A/C pressure switch.
The A/C compressor clutch relay is grounded by the engine control module (ECM). When
energized, the A/C compressor clutch relay allows battery voltage to turn on the A/C compressor
clutch.
The A/C ON indicator light comes on when the A/C system is requested.
The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high
temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and
open the circuit. This removes ground, and the compressor will stop running.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Photo 90
Door Switch: Locations Photo 90
Rear Of Driver's Door Area (Right Front Similar)
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Component Information > Locations > Photo 90 > Page 678
Door Switch: Locations Rear Door Switch
Rear Of Left Door Area (Right Similar)
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Component Information > Description and Operation
Key Reminder Switch: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied at all times to the seat belt reminder/key-ON beeper circuit in the
integrated control unit. When you turn ON the ignition key switch the integrated control unit senses
ground. If you open the driver's door, the door switch closes, causing the beeper to sound until the
door is closed.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Parking Brake Warning
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Brake Switch
Below Rear Console
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Parking Brake Warning
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch > Page 686
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Pin Switch
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Backup Lamp Switch: Locations
Right Front Of Engine
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Brake Light Switch: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect wiring at switch. 2. Loosen locknut and remove switch. 3. Reverse procedure to
install. Allow 0.039-0.196 inch (1-5 mm) brake pedal freeplay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Combination Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Combination Switch: Testing and Inspection
Combination Light Switch / Test
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Combination Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 697
CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II),
or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit; the
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover and steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 4-P and 7-P
connectors from the switch. 3. Check the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good
contact. If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary,
and recheck the system.
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Photo 90
Door Switch: Locations Photo 90
Rear Of Driver's Door Area (Right Front Similar)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Photo 90 > Page 702
Door Switch: Locations Rear Door Switch
Rear Of Left Door Area (Right Similar)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Headlamp Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 707
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 708
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 709
Fuse Details Schematics
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 710
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 711
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 712
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 713
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 714
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 715
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 716
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 717
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 718
Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 719
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 720
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 721
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 722
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 723
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 724
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 725
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 726
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 727
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 728
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 729
Headlamp Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 730
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 731
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 732
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 733
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 734
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 735
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 738
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 739
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Headlamp Switch: Electrical Diagrams
Headlight Switch (Part 1 Of 3)
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Headlight Switch (Part 2 Of 3)
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Headlight Switch (Part 3 Of 3)
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Headlamp Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover. 4. Remove steering
column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6. Remove two switch
attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
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Horn Switch: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch ON (II), or
has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit, the airbags
could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
NOTE: The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before,
- disconnecting the battery.
- removing the No.32 (7.5 A) fuse from the under hood fuse/relay box.
- removing the radio.
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5~digit code to restore radio operation.
1. Disconnect both the negative cable and positive cable from the banery, and wait at least three
minutes. 2. Make sure the wheels are turned straight ahead. 3. Remove the access panel below
the driver's airbag, then remove the short connector (RED) from the panel. 4. Disconnect the 3-P
connector between the driver's 'airbag and cable reel, then connect the short connector (RED) on
the airbag side of the
connector.
5. Remove the glove box and access panel.
6. Disconnect the 3-P connector between the front passenger's airbag and the SRS main harness,
then connect the short connector (RED) on the
airbag side of the connector.
7. Remove the dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.
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8. Disconnect the cable reel harness 6-P connector from the SRS main harness, then connect Test
Harness C only to the cable reel harness.
9. Check for continuity between the No.3 terminal and body ground with the horn switch pressed.
There should be continuity.
10. Remove the two TORX® bolts using a TORX® T30 bit, then remove the driver's airbag
assembly.
11. Check for continuity between the horn switch positive terminal and the steering column shaft
with the horn switch pressed.
If there is continuity.
- With cruise control: Test the set/resume switch. If the switch is OK, replace the cable reel.
- Without cruise control: Replace the cable reel.
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If there is no continuity;
- Remove the steering wheel and the four screws, then remove the steering wheel cover. Replace
the faulty horn switch.
12. Reinstall the steering wheel.
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Turn Signal Switch: Testing and Inspection
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CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II),
or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit; the
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover and steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 4-P and 7-P
connectors from the switch. 3. Check the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good
contact. If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary,
and recheck the system.
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
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Turn Signal Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover. 4. Remove steering
column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6. Remove two switch
attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
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Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
Converts barometric pressure to a voltage signal for the engine control module.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The CKP Sensor determines timing for Fuel Injection and ignition of each Cylinder and also detects
Engine speed. The TDC Sensor determines Ignition Timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank
angle is abnormal. The CYP Sensor detects the position of No. 1 Cylinder for sequential fuel
injection to each Cylinder.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations > Photo 9
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 9
Right Side Of Engine.
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 14
Right Front Of Engine.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations > Page 838
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
PURPOSE/DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a temperature dependant resistor (thermistor) that
convents the engine coolant temperature to voltage and outputs it to the engine control module.
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Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 846
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 849
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Information and Instructions > Page 865
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
892
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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893
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
Electric Load Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Electrical Load Detector informs the engine control module of the high electrical draw
conditions.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations
Middle Of Engine
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations >
Page 900
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations >
Page 901
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The MAP Sensor converts Manifold Absolute Pressure (vacuum) into electrical signals and inputs
the Engine Control Module (ECM).
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information >
Locations > Photo 4
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Locations Photo 4
Right Front Of Engine
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Locations > Photo 4 > Page 906
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Locations Photo 5
Right Front Of Engine
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Heated Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 909
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 910
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 911
Fuse Details Schematics
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 912
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 913
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 914
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 915
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 916
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 918
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 919
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 920
Symbol Identification
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 921
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 922
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 923
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 924
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 927
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 929
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Heated Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Heated Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
The Oxygen Sensor is mounted to the Exhaust Manifold or pipe with the sensor end extending into
the exhaust stream. It uses zirconia and platinum to compare exhaust oxygen content with that of
the outside air. When heated by the combination of its internal heater and exhaust gases, the
sensor supplies a low voltage signal (0.0 - 1.0 volt) to the ECM. When the engine is running rich,
the oxygen differential is relatively high so signal voltage increases. When a lean condition occurs
the difference in oxygen content is much lower causing a lower voltage signal to be produced.
Oxygen sensor operation is monitored by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and a malfunction
should be accompanied by a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). Circuit and output testing procedures
are covered in detail in the Diagnostic Trouble Code Charts. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Oxygen Sensor malfunctions will cause increased emission output and smog check failure. Other
symptoms may include poor idle quality or poor fuel economy.
HINT: When monitoring oxygen sensor operation with an oscilloscope, watch for a sine wave with a
frequency of at least 8 cycles in 10 seconds. A "lazy" oxygen sensor will not always set a code, but
will usually cause abnormal emissions levels.
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Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Power Steering Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Page 963
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Power Steering load is high.
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Page 964
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 1022
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The TP Sensor is a Potentiometer. It is connected to the Throttle Valve Shaft. As the Throttle
Position changes, the Throttle Position Sensor varies the voltage signal to the Engine Control
Module (ECM).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] >
Component Information > Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] >
Component Information > Locations > Page 1026
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] >
Component Information > Locations > Page 1027
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] >
Component Information > Locations > Page 1028
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Locations
Right Rear Of Engine Compartment
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Information and Instructions > Page 1037
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Information and Instructions > Page 1038
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1039
Fuse Details Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 1040
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Information and Instructions > Page 1041
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1043
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1044
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Information and Instructions > Page 1045
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1047
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1048
Symbol Identification
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1049
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1050
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1051
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Information and Instructions > Page 1052
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1053
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Information and Instructions > Page 1054
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Information and Instructions > Page 1055
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1058
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied from fuse 24 (fuse 12
without SRS) through the BLK/YEL wire to the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). The sensor is
grounded by the BLK wire to G101. The speedometer and other control units in the circuit supply
about 5 volts to the YEL/WHT wire. The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) intermittently grounds the
YEL/WHT wire which generates a pulsed signal in it. The number of pulse per minute
increases/decreases with the speed of the car.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 17: A problem in
the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) circuit.
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The TP Sensor is a Potentiometer. It is connected to the Throttle Valve Shaft. As the Throttle
Position changes, the Throttle Position Sensor varies the voltage signal to the Engine Control
Module (ECM).
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The CKP Sensor determines timing for Fuel Injection and ignition of each Cylinder and also detects
Engine speed. The TDC Sensor determines Ignition Timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank
angle is abnormal. The CYP Sensor detects the position of No. 1 Cylinder for sequential fuel
injection to each Cylinder.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
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Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
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Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
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Component Information > Service and Repair
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove footrest and left door sill molding, then pull back carpet.
Fig. 35 Dash Sensor Mounting
3. Remove dash sensor protector, then sensor mounting bolts and dash sensor, Fig. 35. 4.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Tighten dash attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition
switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
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> Component Information > Locations
Safing Sensor: Locations
The Safing Sensor is located within the SRS Unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Clutch Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Hitachi Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 1281
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Mitsuba Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 1282
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Nippondenso Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1293
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1294
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Power Steering load is high.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1295
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Shift Interlock Switch > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information >
Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information >
Locations > Page 1304
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information >
Locations > Page 1305
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information >
Locations > Page 1306
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield
Washer Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Windshield Washer Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove steering column covers. 3. Disconnect 8-P and 6-P connectors from wiper switch.
Fig. 9 Wiper/Washer Switch Continuity Chart
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 9.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield
Washer Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1311
Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower cover. 3. Remove upper and lower steering column covers from
steering column. 4. Disconnect 8-P and 6-P connectors from wiper switch. 5. Remove two
attaching screws and slide wiper switch out of housing. 6. Reverse procedure to install. 7. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Switch
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Wiper Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove steering column covers. 3. Disconnect 8-P and 6-P connectors from wiper switch.
Fig. 9 Wiper/Washer Switch Continuity Chart
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 9.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Switch
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1315
Wiper Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover. 4. Remove steering
column upper cover. 5. Disconnect electrical connectors. 6. Remove wiper/washer switch attaching
screws, then the switch. 7. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded
theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
Applies To: ALL
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
The title description was revised.*
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift:
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100
Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140
Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set:
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1325
Defect Code: 07406
Symptom Code: 03602
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Diagnostic Trouble Code:
To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The bracket counts as one weight.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1326
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1327
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1328
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1329
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1330
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted.
5. Adjust the camber as needed.
Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1331
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension
^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires.
^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1332
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1333
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
Applies To: ALL
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
The title description was revised.*
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift:
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100
Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140
Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set:
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1339
Defect Code: 07406
Symptom Code: 03602
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Diagnostic Trouble Code:
To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The bracket counts as one weight.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1340
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1341
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1342
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1343
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1344
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted.
5. Adjust the camber as needed.
Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1345
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension
^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires.
^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1346
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1347
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1348
Alignment: By Symptom
Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502
Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
Applies To: ALL
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
The title description was revised.*
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift:
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100
Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140
Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set:
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1349
Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652
Defect Code: 07406
Symptom Code: 03602
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Diagnostic Trouble Code:
To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The bracket counts as one weight.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1350
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1351
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1352
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1353
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1354
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted.
5. Adjust the camber as needed.
Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1355
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension
^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires.
^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1356
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1357
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502
Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
Applies To: ALL
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
The title description was revised.*
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift:
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100
Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1358
Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set:
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652
Defect Code: 07406
Symptom Code: 03602
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Diagnostic Trouble Code:
To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1359
to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the
maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives
in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The bracket counts as one weight.
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1360
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1361
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1362
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1363
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted.
5. Adjust the camber as needed.
Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1364
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension
^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires.
^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1365
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1366
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Front Wheel Alignment
Alignment: Specifications Front Wheel Alignment
Caster Angle, Degrees
Limits ...................................................................................................................................................
................................................ + 1/6 to +2 1/6 Desired .......................................................................
........................................................................................................................................ +1 1/6
Camber Angle, Degrees
Limits ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................. -1 to +1 Desired .....................................................................
.................................................................................................................................................. 0
Toe-In, Inch .........................................................................................................................................
................................................................................. 0 Wheel Turning Angle, Degrees
Inner Wheel .........................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 41 Outer Wheel .............................................................
.......................................................................................................................................... 33 1/2
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Front Wheel Alignment >
Page 1369
Alignment: Specifications Rear Wheel Alignment
Camber Angle, Degrees
Limits ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................. -1 1/3 to + 2/3 Desired ......................................................................
.............................................................................................................................................. -1/3
Toe-In, Inch .........................................................................................................................................
............................................................................ 0.08
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Page 1370
Alignment: Service Precautions
CAUTION: When fasteners are removed, always reinstall them at the same location from which
they were removed. If a fastener needs to be replaced, use the correct part number fastener for
that application. If the correct part number fastener is not available, a fastener of equal size and
strength (or stronger) may be used. Fasteners that are not reused, and those requiring thread
locking compound will be called out. The correct torque value must be used when installing
fasteners that require it. If the above conditions are not followed, parts or system damage could
result.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description
Alignment: Description and Operation General Description
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
"Front End Alignment" refers to the angular relationship between the front wheels, the front
suspension attaching parts and the ground. Proper front end alignment must be maintained in
order to insure efficient steering, good directional stability and to prevent abnormal tire wear. The
most important factors of front end alignment are wheel toe-in, wheel camber and axle caster.
CAMBER:
Camber is the vertical tilting inward or outward of the front wheels. When the wheels tilt outward at
the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is negative
(-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle (1). If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
CASTER:
This illustration shows view from the side of the vehicle. Caster (1) is the vertical tilting of the wheel
axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is
positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the short and long arm type suspension you cannot
see a caster angle without a special instrument, but if you look straight down from the top of the
upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle
other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle, the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead
(toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint center line.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description > Page 1373
TOE-IN:
This illustration shows view from the top of the vehicle. Toe-in is the measured amount the front
wheels are turn in. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a degree. Toe-in is
measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The purpose of toe-in is
to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections of the wheel support
system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in results in excessive toe-in
and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front end alignment procedure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description > Page 1374
Alignment: Description and Operation Camber
Camber is the inward or outward tilting of the front wheels from the vertical. When the wheels tilt
outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is
negative (-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle. If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description > Page 1375
Alignment: Description and Operation Caster
Caster is the tilting of the wheel axis either forward or backward from the vertical (when viewed
from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the
short and long arm type suspension you cannot see a caster angle without a special instrument,
but if you look straight down from the top of the upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do
not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle,
the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead (toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint
center line.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description > Page 1376
Alignment: Description and Operation Toe-In
Toe-in is the turning of the front wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a
degree. Toe-in is measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The
purpose of toe-in is to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections
of the wheel support system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in
results in excessive toe-in and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front
end alignment procedure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > Page 1377
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary Checks
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Checks
INSPECTION
Before making any adjustments affecting caster, camber or toe-in, the following front end
inspection should be made. 1. Inspect the tires for proper inflation pressure. 2. Inspect the front
wheel bearings for proper adjustment. 3. inspect the ball joints and tie rod ends. If excessive
looseness is noted, correct before adjusting. 4. Inspect the wheel and tires for run-out. 5. Inspect
the trim height. If not within specifications, the correction must be made before adjusting caster. 6.
Inspect the steering unit for looseness at the frame. 7. Inspect shock absorbers for leaks or any
noticeable noise. 8. Inspect the control arms or stabilizer bar attachment for looseness. 9. Inspect
the front end alignment using alignment equipment. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
10. Alignment must be performed on a level surface.
- Check that the suspension is not modified.
- Check the tire size and tire pressure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary Checks >
Page 1380
Alignment: Service and Repair Alignment
Camber
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting camber angles. Camber angles are
not adjustable, however, the following procedure may be used to ensure camber is within
specifications.
Fig. 1 Camber Angle Inspection
1. Remove spindle nut and install suitable camber gauge and adapter, Fig. 1, with wheels in
straight-ahead position. 2. Note gauge reading with bubble centered on the gauge. If camber is not
within specifications, inspect suspension components for damage and
repair as necessary, then recheck camber.
Caster
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting caster angles.
1. Check steering wheel angle. If significantly off center, it may be necessary to remove steering
wheel and reposition it on splines. Turn steering
wheel to straight ahead position.
2. Check caster angle. 3. If caster angle is not within specifications, inspect suspension
components for damage and repair as necessary, then recheck caster.
Toe-In
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting toe-in.
1. Center steering wheel, then loosen tie rod locknuts. 2. Turn both tie rods in the same direction
until both front wheels are positioned straight ahead. 3. Adjust toe to specifications by turning both
tie rods in the same direction, then tighten tie rod locknuts.
Camber
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting camber angles. Camber angles are
not adjustable, however, the following procedure may be used to ensure camber is within
specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary Checks >
Page 1381
Fig. 1 Camber Angle Inspection
1. Remove spindle nut and install suitable camber gauge and adapter, Fig. 1, with wheels in
straight-ahead position. 2. Note gauge reading with bubble centered on the gauge. If camber is not
within specifications, inspect suspension components for damage and
repair as necessary, then recheck camber.
Toe-In
1. Release parking brake. 2. Before adjustment, note location of compensator arm adjusting bolts.
Fig. 4 Rear Toe-In Adjustment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary Checks >
Page 1382
3. Loosen adjusting bolt and slide compensator arm in or out, Fig. 4, to adjust toe. 4. Torque
adjusting bolt to 47 ft. lbs.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
MAR 10, 1997
Applies To: ALL Models
New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts > Page 1388
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
Replacement washers come in a set of five (T/N 07406-0040300).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1389
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
At Curb Idle
With Vacuum Hose Connected
.......................................................................................................................................................
215-265 kPa (31-38 psi) With Vacuum Hose Disconnected
...................................................................................................................................................
280-330 kPa (40-47 psi)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1390
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
1. Relieve fuel pressure. 2. Remove the service bolt on the fuel filter while holding the banjo bolt
with another wrench. Attach the special tool. 3. Start the engine *. Measure the fuel pressure with
the engine idling and vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel
pressure regulator and pinched.
Pressure should be: 280-330 kPa (2.8-3.3 kg/cm2, 40-47 psi)
4. Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
Pressure should be: 215-265 kPa (2.15-2.65 kg/cm2, 31-38 psi)
^ If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch on, wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back
on again and read the fuel pressure.
^ If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the fuel is OK, check the
following:
^ If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, inspect for: Pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
^ If the fuel pressure is lower than specified, inspect for: Clogged fuel filter.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator. Leakage in the fuel hoses or pipes.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air/Fuel Mixture > System
Information > Adjustments
Air/Fuel Mixture: Adjustments
The Air/Fuel mixture is controlled by the engine control module and is not adjustable.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
IDLE SPEED
Manual transmission ............................................................................................................................
................................................. 670 RPM [01] Automatic transmission ..............................................
........................................................................................................................... 670 RPM [01]
[01] -- Transmission in Neutral or Park, headlights and cooling fan OFF.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications > Page 1397
Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection
1. Start the engine and allow it to warm-up (the radiator fan comes on).
2. Connect a tachometer to the test tachometer connector.
NOTE: All electrical systems should be turned OFF.
IDLE SPEED:
(M/T) in neutral:
(USA): 670 ± 50 rpm (Canada): 750 ± 50 rpm
(A/T) in [N] or [P]:
(USA): 700 ± 50 rpm (Canada): 750 ± 50 rpm
3. Adjust the idle speed, if necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications > Page 1398
Idle Speed: Adjustments
NOTE: ^
When the idle speed set, check the following items: The MIL has not been reported on.
- Ignition timing
- Spark plugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
^ (Canada) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights are off.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (A/T in [N] or [P] position, M/T in
neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it
idle.
2. Connect a tachometer.
3. Disconnect the 2P connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. 4. Start the engine with the
accelerator pedal slightly depressed. Stabilize the rpm at 1,000, then slowly release the pedal until
the engine idles.
5. Check idling in no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, rear defogger, radiator fan, and air
conditioning are not operating.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 420 +/- 50 rpm Others: 420 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 420 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
Adjust the idle speed, if necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw.
NOTE: After adjusting the idle speed in this step, check the ignition timing. If it is out of spec, go
back to step 4.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
7. Reconnect the 2P connector on the IAC valve, then remove BACK UP (7.5 A) fuse in the
under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the
ECM.
8. Restart and idle the engine with no-load conditions for one minute, then check the idle speed.
NOTE: (Canada) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights
are off.
Idle speed should be:
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications > Page 1399
M/T D15Z1 engine: 600 +/- 50 rpm Others: 670 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 700 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
9. Idle the engine for one minute with headlights (Low) ON and check the idle speed.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 700 +/- 50 rpm Others: 750 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 750 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
10. Turn the headlights off.
Idle the engine for one minute with heater fan switch at HI and air conditioner on, then check the
idle speed.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 810 +/- 50 rpm Others: 810 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 810 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, see System Troubleshooting Guide.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Component
Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the Fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from your work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the Ignition Switch is off.
NOTE: Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the 6 mm
service bolt on top of the fuel filter.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove the fuel fill
cap. 3. Use a box end wrench on the 6 mm service bolt at the fuel filter, while holding the special
banjo bolt with another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6 mm service bolt. 5. Slowly loosen the 6 mm service bolt one
complete turn.
NOTE: A fuel pressure gauge can be attached at the 6 mm service bolt hole.
- Always replace the washer between the service bolt and the special banjo bolt whenever the
service bolt is loosened.
- Replace all washers whenever the bolts are removed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order > Component
Information > Specifications
Firing Order: Specifications
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > System Check
Connector <--> [Ignition Timing Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
System Check Connector: Component Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > System Check
Connector <--> [Ignition Timing Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 1415
System Check Connector: Connector Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Number One
Cylinder > Component Information > Locations
Number One Cylinder: Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks
and Indicators > System Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Specifications
Ignition Cable: Specifications
Resistance at 20°C (68°F) ...................................................................................................................
......................................................... 25 K Ohms max
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Ignition Cable: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1427
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1428
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1429
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1430
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1431
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1432
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1433
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1434
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1435
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1436
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1437
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1438
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1439
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1440
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1441
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1442
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Ignition Cable: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1469
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1470
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1471
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1472
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1473
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1474
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1475
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 1476
Ignition Cable: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: Carefully remove the ignition wires by pulling on the rubber boots. Do not bend the
wires; you might break them inside.
1. Check the condition of the wire terminals. If any terminal is corroded, clean it, and if it is broken
or distorted, replace the wire.
2. Connect ohmmeter probes and measure resistance.
Resistance: 25 k Ohms max. at 70° F (20°C)
3. If resistance exceeds 25 k Ohms, replace the ignition wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition > Distributor
Cap > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Distributor Cap: Testing and Inspection
Check the following points, repair or replace as needed if a problem is found.
1. There must be no cracking in the cap. 2. There must be no damage to the cap's electrodes. 3.
Clean away any accumulated dirt from the cap.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition > Ignition
Rotor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Ignition Rotor: Testing and Inspection
Check the following points, repair or replace as needed if a problem is found.
1. There must be no cracking in the rotor. 2. There must be no damage to the rotor's electrode. 3.
Clean away any accumulated dirt from the rotor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Gap and Torque
Spark Plug: Specifications Gap and Torque
Spark Plug Gap ...................................................................................................................................
........................................................ 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
Spark Plug Torque ...............................................................................................................................
......................................................... 18 Nm (13 ft lb)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Gap and Torque > Page 1488
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1489
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Spark Plug Inspection
1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator for:
Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: ^
Advanced ignition timing
^ Loose spark plug
^ Plug heat range too low
^ Insufficient cooling
Fouled plug may be caused by: ^
Retarded ignition timing
^ Oil in combustion chamber
^ Incorrect spark plug gap
^ Plug heat range too high
^ Excessive idling/low speed running
^ Clogged air cleaner element
^ Deteriorated ignition coil or ignition wires
2. Adjust the gap with a suitable gapping tool.
3. Replace the plug if the center electrode is rounded as shown above.
NOTE: Do not use spark plugs other than recommended types. These plugs are a new type (ISO
standard).
4. Screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger tight, then torque them to 18 N-m (1.8 kg-m, 13
lb-ft).
NOTE: Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads before installing.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check > System
Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Check compression with engine at normal operating temperature and throttle in wide open position.
Prior to performing test, disable ignition and fuel injection to prevent fuel from being sprayed into
cylinders while cranking engine. Ensure is fully charged and that cranking speed is 250 RPM.
Standard reading should be 135-184 psi. The maximum variation between cylinders is 28 psi.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
Valve Clearance
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 0.007-0.009 inches
Exhaust ................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 0.009-0.011 inches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1496
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Valves should be adjusted only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F
(38°C). Adjustment is the same for intake and exhaust
valves. ^
After adjusting, Retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 Nm (134 ft. lbs.).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
2. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC. "UP" mark on the camshaft pulley should be at top, and TDC marks
should align with the cylinder head surface. The
crankshaft pulley should be at TDC.
3. Adjust valves on No. 1 cylinder.
- Intake: 0.18-0.22 mm (0.007-0.009 inch)
- Exhaust: 0.23-0.27 mm (0.009-0.011 inch)
4. Loosen the locknut, and turn the adjustment screw until the feeler gauge slides back and forth
with a slight amount of drag.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1497
CAUTION: Do not overtighten the locknuts; the rocker arms are made of aluminum.
5. Tighten the locknut, and check the clearance again. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
6. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). The "UP" mark should
be on the exhaust side. Adjust valves on No. 3
cylinder.
7. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No. 4 piston to TDC. Both TDC grooves
are once again visible. Adjust valves on No. 4
cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1498
8. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No. 2 piston to TDC. The UP" mark should
be on the intake side. Adjust valves on No. 2
cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Diagrams
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1502
Timing Belt: Testing and Inspection
TIMING BELT INSPECTION
NOTE:
- Replace the belt if oil or coolant soaked. - Remove any oil or solvent that gets on the belt.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the timing belt upper cover. 3. Inspect the timing
belt for cracks and oil or coolant soaking. 4. After inspecting, retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to
specified torque.
Specified Torque: 185 N.m (18.5 kg-m, 134 lb-ft)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1503
Timing Belt: Adjustments
TIMING BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT
CAUTION: Always adjust the timing belt tension with the engine cold.
NOTE:
- The tensioner is spring-loaded to apply proper tension to the belt automatically after making the
following adjustment. - Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley
side. Rotating it clockwise may result in improper adjustment of the belt tension.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the timing belt upper cover. 3. Set the No.1 piston
at top dead center (TDC). 4. Loosen the adjusting bolt 180°. 5. Rotate the crankshaft
counterclockwise 3-teeth on the camshaft pulley to create tension on the timing belt. 6. Make sure
the timing belt and the camshaft pulley are engaged securely. 7. Torque the adjusting bolt to 45
N.m (4.5 kg-m, 33 lb-ft). 8. After adjusting, retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to specified torque.
Specified Torque: 185 N.m (18.5 kg-m, 134 lb-ft)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1504
Timing Belt: Service and Repair
TIMING BELT REMOVAL
CAUTION: Inspect the water pump when replacing the timing belt.
NOTE: Turn the crankshaft so that No.1 piston is at top-dead-center.
- Before removing the timing belt, mark its direction of rotation if it to be reused.
1. Remove the splash shield.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1505
2. Remove the power steering pump.
- Do not disconnect the P/S hoses.
3. On vehicles with A/C remove the A/C compressor adjusting pulley with bracket and the belt. 4.
Remove the P/S bracket.
5. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and pivot nut, then remove the belt. 6. Remove the cruise
control actuator.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1506
7. Remove the engine support nuts. Loosen the mount bolt and pivot the side engine mount out of
the way. 8. Remove the cylinder head cover. 9. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
10. Remove the special bolt and crankshaft pulley. 11. Remove the timing belt upper cover and the
lower cover. 12. Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt 180°. 13. Push the tensioner to release
tension from the belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt. 14. Remove the timing belt from the pulleys.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1507
TIMING BELT INSTALLATION
1. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal; Only key points are described here.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1508
2. Position the crankshaft and the camshaft pulleys as shown before installing the timing belt.
A. Set the crankshaft so that the No.1 piston is at top dead center (TDC). Align the groove on the
teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the
pointer on the oil pump.
B. Align the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley with the cylinder head upper surface.
3. Install the timing belt tightly in the sequence shown.
(1) Timing belt drive pulley (crankshaft) -> (2) Adjusting pulley -> (3) Water pump pulley -> (4)
Camshaft pulley.
4. Loosen the adjusting bolt, and retighten it after tensioning the belt. 5. Rotate the crankshaft
about 4 or 6 turns counterclockwise so that the belt positions on the pulleys. 6. Adjust the timing
belt tension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1509
Crankshaft Pulley
Camshaft Pulley
7. Check the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulley at TDC. 8. If the camshaft pulley is not
positioned at TDC remove the timing belt and adjust the positioning and repeat the installation
procedure and reinstall
the timing belt.
After installation, adjust the tension of each belt.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Bulletin No. 96-014
Issue Date Feb. 20, 1996
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
File Under SPECIAL TOOLS
Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Tensioning the engine belts properly with the belt tension gauge (T/N 07JGG-001010A) is critical to
bearing life of the A/C compressor, alternator, etc. Calibration of the belt tension gauge should be
checked regularly.
CALIBRATION
A Belt Tension Gauge Checker, needed for checking the calibration of the belt tension gauge, is
now available. One checker is being automatically shipped to each dealership. Additional checkers
may be ordered through normal parts ordering channels. The part number is 07TGG-001010A.
Procedure
1. Push the handle and slide the checker into the gauge. Position the checker as shown.
2. Release the handle and read the tension value on the Kg scale.
3. Compare your reading to the value etched on the checker. Your gauge is in calibration if it is
within +/- 3 kg of the checker value.
If your belt tension gauge is out of calibration, you cannot recalibrate it yourself. Contact America
Kowa Seiki about sending it for recalibration.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair > Page 1514
If your belt tension gauge is damaged, replacement parts are available from America Kowa Seiki.
They are:
REPAIR AND CALIBRATION INFORMATION
To order replacement parts for a gauge, contact:
America Kowa Seiki 20013 S. Rancho Way Rancho Dominguez, CA 90220
(800) 824-9655
To return your belt tension gauge for calibration:
^ Contact America Kowa Seiki for authorization and shipping instructions.
^ Pack the belt tension gauge in a suitable box. Use "bubble pack" to protect the gauge.
^ Ship according to their instructions.
America Kowa Seiki will charge a fixed fee to inspect, clean and calibrate the belt tension gauge,
and return it via UPS ground. Any repair parts needed are extra. The gauge will be returned within
15 days.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1515
Drive Belt: Specifications
Air Conditioning
Deflection, Inches [01]:
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.20-0.28 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.26-0.41
Alternator
Deflection, Inches [01]:
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.22-0.31 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.28-0.41
Power Steering
Deflection, Inches [01]:
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.24-0.37 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.31-0.47
[01] -- Measured using 22 ft. lbs. force.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service
and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the Fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from your work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the Ignition Switch is off.
NOTE: Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the 6 mm
service bolt on top of the fuel filter.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove the fuel fill
cap. 3. Use a box end wrench on the 6 mm service bolt at the fuel filter, while holding the special
banjo bolt with another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6 mm service bolt. 5. Slowly loosen the 6 mm service bolt one
complete turn.
NOTE: A fuel pressure gauge can be attached at the 6 mm service bolt hole.
- Always replace the washer between the service bolt and the special banjo bolt whenever the
service bolt is loosened.
- Replace all washers whenever the bolts are removed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > System Information > Service Precautions
Hoses: Service Precautions
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
To prevent vehicle damage, always observe the following precautions: After servicing a hose, check for leaks before and after test driving the vehicle.
- Always use the correct size hose. Do not use standard sized hose in place of metric hose or vice
versa.
Always use the correct type of hose. Never use vacuum hose in place of fuel hose. Never use
heater hose in place of PCV hose.
- When replacing hoses which are attached to the engine on one end and the frame or body on the
other end, always leave sufficient length to compensate for engine movement (from torque).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Specifications
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Fluid type DOT 3 or 4
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Coolant Capacity, Quarts:
Man. Transmission ..............................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 4.76 Auto. Transmission ...................................................
.............................................................................................................................................. 4.6
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1535
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
Coolant/Anti-freeze Ethylene Glycol Based Coolant
Concentration Minimum 50 %
Maximum 60 %
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. AF
CAPACITY, Refill*:
Accord 4cyl...........................................................................................................................................
........................................ 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
V6 ........................................................................................................................................................
................................... 2.7 liters 2.9 quarts
Civic, Del Sol .......................................................................................................................................
........................................ 2.7 liters 2.9 quarts
Prelude ................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
Odyssey, Oasis ...................................................................................................................................
........................................... 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
*With the engine at operating temperature, shift transmission through all gears. Turn engine off and
check fluid level within 1 minute.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1540
Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications
KEY TO LUBRICATION ABBREVIATIONS
NOTE: Some manufacturer lubricant names may differ from the following list. If the manufacturer
does not recommend a specific lubricant, use the following.
AF
Dexron(r)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid
AP ATF-PLUS(r) Automatic Transmission Fluid
BJ Suspension Lubricant
BL Brake Lubricant
CC Motor Oil, API Service CC
CD Motor Oil, API Service CD
CE Motor Oil, API Service CE
CF-4 Motor Oil, API Service CF-4
DC Distributor Cam Lubricant
EC Ethylene Glycol Coolant
EP Extreme Pressure Gear Oil
FA Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type F
GC
Wheel Bearing Grease, NLGI Classification GC
GF-1 Motor Oil, API Service GF-1 (Starburst)
GL-1 Gear Oil, API Service GL-1
GL-4 Gear Oil, API Service GL-4
GL-5 Gear Oil, API Service GL-5
GL-5* GL-5 Gear Oil for Limited Slip Differentials
GLS Gear Lubricant, Special
HB Hydraulic Brake Fluid, SAE J1703, DOT-3 or 4
HBH Hydraulic Brake Fluid, Extra Heavy Duty
HG High Temperature Grease
HP Hypoid Gear Oil
HP* Hypoid Gear Oil for Limited Slip or Traction-Lok Differentials
LB Chassis Grease, NLGI Classification LB
LL
Steering Linkage Lubricant
LM Lithium Multipurpose Grease
MA Mercon(r) Automatic Transmission Fluid
MH Manifold Heat Riser Solvent
MO Motor Oil, Any API Service Classification
PC Carburetor Cleaner
PS Power Steering Fluid
SF Motor Oil, API service SF
SG Motor Oil, API service SG
SH Motor Oil, API service SH
SLF Special Lubricant - Fluid
SLS Special Lubricant - Spray
WB
Wheel Bearing Grease
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1541
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair
Checking
NOTE: Check the fluid level with the engine at normal operating temperature (the cooling fan
comes on).
1. Park the car on level ground. Shut off the engine.
2. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) from the transmission and wipe it with a clean cloth. 3. Insert
the dipstick into the transmission.
4. Remove the dipstick and check the fluid level. It should be between the upper and lower marks.
5. If the level is below the lower mark, add fluid into the tube to bring it to the upper mark. Use
Honda Premium Formula Automatic Transmission
Fluid or an equivalent DEXRON® II Automatic Transmission Fluid (AT F) only.
6. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission.
Changing
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1542
1.Bring the transmission up to operating temperature by driving the car. Park the car on level
ground, turn the engine off, then remove drain plug.
2.Reinstall the drain plug with a new washer, then refill the transmission to the upper mark on the
dipstick.
Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity: 2.7 (2.9 US qt , 2.4 Imp at) at change 5.9 (6.2 US at , 5.2
Imp at) at overhaul
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications
TYPE 1992-95 .....................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. SG
TYPE 1996 ..........................................................................................................................................
........................................................................... GLS
Above 20°F (-7°C), 1992 .....................................................................................................................
.............................................................................. 30 Above 0°F (-18°C), 1992 .................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
20W-40 All temperatures .....................................................................................................................
................................................................ 10W-30*, 10W-40* * Preferred
CAPACITY, Refill:
Accord .................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1.9 liters 4.0 pints
Civic, Del Sol .......................................................................................................................................
........................................... 1.8 liters 3.8 pints
VTEC 1992-95......................................................................................................................................
..................................... 2.2 liters 4.6 pints
Prelude ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1.9 liters 4.0 pints
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1547
Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications
KEY TO LUBRICATION ABBREVIATIONS
NOTE: Some manufacturer lubricant names may differ from the following list. If the manufacturer
does not recommend a specific lubricant, use the following.
AF
Dexron(r)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid
AP ATF-PLUS(r) Automatic Transmission Fluid
BJ Suspension Lubricant
BL Brake Lubricant
CC Motor Oil, API Service CC
CD Motor Oil, API Service CD
CE Motor Oil, API Service CE
CF-4 Motor Oil, API Service CF-4
DC Distributor Cam Lubricant
EC Ethylene Glycol Coolant
EP Extreme Pressure Gear Oil
FA Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type F
GC
Wheel Bearing Grease, NLGI Classification GC
GF-1 Motor Oil, API Service GF-1 (Starburst)
GL-1 Gear Oil, API Service GL-1
GL-4 Gear Oil, API Service GL-4
GL-5 Gear Oil, API Service GL-5
GL-5* GL-5 Gear Oil for Limited Slip Differentials
GLS Gear Lubricant, Special
HB Hydraulic Brake Fluid, SAE J1703, DOT-3 or 4
HBH Hydraulic Brake Fluid, Extra Heavy Duty
HG High Temperature Grease
HP Hypoid Gear Oil
HP* Hypoid Gear Oil for Limited Slip or Traction-Lok Differentials
LB Chassis Grease, NLGI Classification LB
LL
Steering Linkage Lubricant
LM Lithium Multipurpose Grease
MA Mercon(r) Automatic Transmission Fluid
MH Manifold Heat Riser Solvent
MO Motor Oil, Any API Service Classification
PC Carburetor Cleaner
PS Power Steering Fluid
SF Motor Oil, API service SF
SG Motor Oil, API service SG
SH Motor Oil, API service SH
SLF Special Lubricant - Fluid
SLS Special Lubricant - Spray
WB
Wheel Bearing Grease
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1548
Fluid - M/T: Service and Repair
NOTE: Check the oil with the engine OFF, and the car on level ground.
1. Remove the oil filler plug, then check the level and condition of the oil. 2. The oil level must be
up to the filler hole. If it is below the hole, add oil until it runs out, then reinstall the oil filler plug. 3. If
the transmission oil is dirty, remove the drain plug and drain the oil. 4. Reinstall the drain plug with
a new washer, and refill the transmission oil to the proper level.
NOTE: The drain plug washer should be replaced at every oil change.
5. Reinstall the oil filler plug with a new washer.
Oil Capacity 1.8l (1.9 US qt, 1.6 Imp qt) at oil change. 1.9l (2.0 US qt, 1.7 Imp qt) at overhaul.
Use only SAE 1OW-30 or 1OW-40, SF or SG grade.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard
SOURCE: Honda Service News
TITLE: Use ONLY New GF-4 Standard Engine Oil
APPLIES TO: All Models
SERVICE TIP:
There's a new performance standard for engine oil: GF-4. It was jointly developed by automotive
and oil experts, and it represents a significant performance upgrade and improvement in fuel
economy. GF-4 engine oils must pass grueling tests totaling over 500 hours. On top of this, Honda
Genuine engine oils are also tested to ensure specific compatibility with Honda vehicles.
GF-4 engine oil is compatible with all current and earlier model year Honda cars and trucks. It also
provides these added benefits:
- Improved oxidation resistance (reduced thickening of the oil)
- Improved deposit protection and better wear protection
- Better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil
- Environmental protection by extending the life of emissions systems
While Honda has upgraded its engine oil to GF-4, other brands may not yet be at this new
standard. Keep in mind you must use Honda Genuine engine oil for all warranty repairs. If you use
some other brand of oil for non-warranty repairs, make sure that oil meets the GF-4 standard. We
recommend you stop using non-GF-4 engine oils and check with your supplier that you're
purchasing GF-4 oil.
Engine oil produced after April 1, 2005, that meets the GF-4 standard, must post this starburst
certification mark on the container. Always look for this mark; some oil container labels won't
specifically refer to GF-4.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil Capacity
For Engine Overhaul
...........................................................................................................................................................
4.0 L (4.2 US qts. 3.5 Imp.qt) For Oil Change, Including Filter
....................................................................................................................................... 3.3 L (3.5 US
qts. 2.9 Imp.qts)
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
API Service Grade
............................................................................................................................................ SG or SH
"Energy Conserving II" grade oil.
Specified viscosities:
SAE 5W-30 (Preferred) SAE 10W-30
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1555
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Engine Oil Capacity
For Engine Overhaul
...........................................................................................................................................................
4.0 L (4.2 US qts. 3.5 Imp.qt) For Oil Change, Including Filter
....................................................................................................................................... 3.3 L (3.5 US
qts. 2.9 Imp.qts)
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
API Service Grade
............................................................................................................................................ SG or SH
"Energy Conserving II" grade oil.
Specified viscosities:
SAE 5W-30 (Preferred) SAE 10W-30
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Power Steering Fluid > Component Information > Specifications
Power Steering Fluid: Specifications
Fluid Type ............................................................................................................................................
....................... Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid
Always use Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or
automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection
07-030
October 12, 2007
Applies To: ALL Vehicles With Conventional A/C Compressors
A/C Leak Detection
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
The kit contains:
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
^ TRP3887, R-134a Universal Connect Set(TM)
^ TRP120884, GLO-AWAY(TM) dye cleaner
^ TRP9940, fluorescence-enhancing glasses
^ TRP1143, (1) empty Tracer-Stick dye capsule
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
USING THE OPTIMAX JR.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 1563
1. Before adding any leak-detection dye, check to see if there is dye in the system now.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
^ If there is no dye in the system, go to step 2.
^ If there is dye in the system, go to step 5. Do not add more dye.
2. Add the dye.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 1564
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
4. Connect the NC service equipment:
With the universal connect set and dye capsule attached to the vehicle's low-side service port,
connect the A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's low-side hose quick coupler to the
service valve fitting. Open the blue hand-wheel valves on both quick couplers. Leave the control
valve (black knob) on the universal connect set closed.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
5. Inspect the A/C system for leaks:
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 1565
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
(c) Inspect the entire system. Be sure to check these locations:
^ damaged and corroded areas
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
^ brazed or welded areas
^ areas near attachment points
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant:
Capacity, Lbs. ......................................................................................................................................
................................................................... 1.2 Type ...........................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... R-134a
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1568
Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications
A/C Refrigerant ....................................................................................................................................
...................................................................... R-134a
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Refrigerant Oil: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Oil Type: SP-10: P/N 38899-P13-AO1 Refrigerant Oil Capacity:
Condenser: 20 ml (2/3 fl.oz, 0.7 imp.oz) Evaporator: 45 ml (1 1/2 fl.oz, 1.6 imp.oz) Line or hose: 10
ml (1/3 fl.oz, 0.4 imp.oz) Receiver/Dryer: 10 ml (1/3 fl.oz, 0.4 imp.oz) Leakage repair: 25 ml (5/6
fl.oz, 0.9 imp.oz) Compressor: For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained
from the removed compressor from 120 ml (4 fl.oz, 4.2 imp.oz), and drain the calculated volume of
oil from the new compressor. 120 ml (4 fl.oz, 4.2 imp.oz) - Volume of removed compressor =
Volume to drain from new compressor.
NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed compressor, don't drain more than 50 ml (1 2/3
fl.oz, 1.8 imp.oz) from the new compressor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1573
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Oil Type ............................................................................................................................
......................................................................... SP-10 Honda PN .......................................................
........................................................................................................................................
38897-P13-A01AH Honda Code .........................................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 5023627
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair System Bleeding
Anti-Lock Brake System
Anti-Lock Brake Bleeding See: With Anti-Lock Brakes (Using ALB Checker)
With Anti-Lock Brakes (Using ALB Checker)
Park vehicle on level ground with wheels blocked. When bleeding brakes, put manual transaxle in
the Neutral position and automatic transaxle in the Park position.
1. With ignition switch Off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on the
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
anti-lock brake checker tool Nos. 07HAJ-SG0010A or 07HAJ-SG0010B, or equivalents.
2. Fill modulator reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 3. Start engine and allow it to idle
for a few minutes, then shut engine off. Check fluid in modulator reservoir and refill to MAX level if
necessary.
Fig. 86 Bleeding High Pressure Fluid At Maintenance Bleeder
4. Bleed high pressure fluid from maintenance bleeder with bleeder wrench tool No.
07HAA-SG00101, or equivalent, Fig. 86. 5. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and install
reservoir cap. 6. Turn mode selector switch on checker to 2. 7. While depressing brake pedal
firmly, push start test switch to operate modulator. There should be kickback on brake pedal. If
there is no kickback,
repeat bleeding sequence as outlined above.
8. Turn mode selector switch on checker to 3, 4 and 5. At each test mode position, refill modulator
reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 9. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and
install reservoir cap. Disconnect ALB checker before driving car. A collision can result from a
reduction, or complete loss of braking ability.
Without Anti-Lock Brakes
CAUTION:
- Always use Genuine Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause
corrosion and decrease the life of the system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding
> Page 1578
- Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
- Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the
paint, wash it off immediately with water.
NOTE: The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of
the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required.
1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line. 2. Have someone
slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding
> Page 1579
3. Loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed
screw securely.
Brake Bleeding Sequence
4. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown until air bubbles no longer appear
in the fluid. 5. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding
> Page 1580
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair ABS Hydraulic Component Bleeding and Fluid Service
Relieving Accumulator/Line Pressure
WARNING: Use the Bleeder T-wrench before disassembling the parts shaded in the illustration
Collecting High-pressure Fluid Into Reservoir Through Maintenance Bleeder
- Open the hood.
- Remove the red cap from the bleeder on the modulator body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding
> Page 1581
Fig. 81 Brake System Pressure Relief
- Install the special tool on the maintenance bleeder, and turn it out slowly 90° to collect
high-pressure fluid into the reservoir. Turn the special tool out one complete turn to drain the brake
fluid thoroughly.
- Retighten the maintenance bleeder, and discard the fluid.
- Reinstall the red cap.
Brake Fluid Change
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding
> Page 1582
Fig. 85 Draining Brake Fluid Reservoir W/Syringe
1. Brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of modulator reservoir with a syringe. It may also
be drained through the pump joint after
disconnecting pump hose, Fig. 85.
2. Loosen master cylinder bleed screw and pump brake pedal to drain brake fluid from master
cylinder.
WARNING:
- High-pressure fluid will squirt out if the shaded hose and pipe are removed.
- To drain high-pressure brake fluid.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Dash Sensor Mounting Bolts ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 16 Driver Side Air Bag Assembly To Steering Wheel Bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 7.2
Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting Nuts & Bolts ..................................................................................
............................................................................. 7.2 SRS Unit Mounting Bolts .................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 7.2 Steering Wheel To Column Steering Shaft Nut ..........................................................................
....................................................................................... 36
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications >
Page 1586
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
SRS connectors automatically short when disconnected.
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications >
Page 1587
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair
The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) must be disarmed prior to disconnecting any electrical
connectors or servicing any system components or items located near SRS electrical connectors.
SRS electrical wiring can be identified by its yellow outer protective coating. To disarm the SRS,
proceed as follows:
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
Fig. 1 Driver Air Bag Disarming
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
will allow air bag system back-up circuit capacitor to discharge.
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1 5. Remove glove compartment and access panel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications >
Page 1588
Fig. 4 Passenger Air Bag Disarming
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 4.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications >
Page 1589
Fig. 12 Fuse Panel/SRS Connector
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 12, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, A SYSTEM MALFUNCTION IS
INDICATED. Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag
Systems/Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1595
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1596
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1597
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1598
Fuse: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1599
Fuse: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Application and ID Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1602
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1603
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1604
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1605
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1606
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1607
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1608
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1609
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > SRS Fuse Block
Fuse Block: Locations SRS Fuse Block
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > SRS Fuse Block > Page 1614
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > SRS Fuse Block > Page 1615
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > SRS Fuse Block > Page 1616
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse Block: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1619
Fuse Block: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1620
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1621
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1622
Fuse Block: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1623
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
> Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Relay Box: Locations Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Bottom Of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
> Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 1628
Relay Box: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
> Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 1629
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
> Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 1630
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
> Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 1631
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
> Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 1632
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
> Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 1633
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
> Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 1634
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations
> Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 1635
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1638
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1639
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1640
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1641
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 1642
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair
If equipped with maintenance reminder flag:
After completing the required service, the maintenance flags may be reset by inserting the ignition
key into the appropriate slot, on the instrument below the indicator flag. When the ignition key is
inserted into the slot, the indicator flag should change to green.
If equipped with maintenance reminder lamp:
1. Turn off the engine. 2. Press and hold the select/reset button(s) on the instrument panel, then
turn the ignition switch ON (Position II). 3. Hold the button(s) for at least 10 seconds, until the
indicator resets.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Locations > Page 1650
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection
When the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) has been reported on, do the following:
1. Connect the Service Check Connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown. (The 2P Service
Check Connector is located under the dash on
the passenger side of the car.) Turn the ignition switch on.
2. Note the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC): The MIL indicates a code by the length and number of
blinks. The MIL can indicate simultaneous
component problems by blinking separate codes, one after another. Codes I through 9 are
indicated by individual short blinks. Codes 10 through 48 are indicated by a series of long and short
blinks. The number of long blinks equals the first digit, the number of
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Tires: Customer Interest Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Bulletin No. 94-025
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
File Under SUSPENSION
Issue Date AUG 22, 1994
Steering Wheel Shimmy
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
An imbalance of the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly in the front end.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
If the steering wheel oscillates as shown, continue with this procedure.
2. Dynamically balance all four wheel/tire assemblies off the car. Make sure the balancer is capable
of balancing to an accuracy of within 5 grams. Use only Honda wheel weights (see PARTS
INFORMATION).
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy > Page 1660
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Failed part: P/N 42700-SM1-A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy > Page 1661
H/C 3251550
Defect code: 045
Contention code: B99
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 06-082 > Dec > 06 > Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
06-082
December 15, 2006
Applies To: ALL
Tubeless Tire Repair Information
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Refer to the tire manufacturer for warranty information.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ 1/8 inch Patch-plug with lead wire
^ 1/4 inch Patch-plug with lead wire
^ 1/8 inch Plugs (stem)*
^ 1/4 inch Plugs (stem)*
^ 1/4 inch Patches*
^ 3/4 inch Patches*
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
^ Inner liner sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire stitcher, 1-1/2 inch wheel
^ Tire crayons
^ Tire test tank
^ Awl or probe
^ Flexible blade skiving knife
^ 1/8 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter
^ 1/4 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter
^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose
^ Carbide buffing wheel with adapter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 06-082 > Dec > 06 > Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information > Page
1667
^ Reversible drill motor (800 RPM MAX)
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
* For repairable injuries that exceed 25 degrees
TIRE REPAIR GUIDELINES
Never repair tires worn below 2/32 inch of tread.
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
MICHELIN PAX SYSTEM SUPPORT RING INSPECTION
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Bulletin No. 94-025
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
File Under SUSPENSION
Issue Date AUG 22, 1994
Steering Wheel Shimmy
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
An imbalance of the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly in the front end.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
If the steering wheel oscillates as shown, continue with this procedure.
2. Dynamically balance all four wheel/tire assemblies off the car. Make sure the balancer is capable
of balancing to an accuracy of within 5 grams. Use only Honda wheel weights (see PARTS
INFORMATION).
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy >
Page 1672
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Failed part: P/N 42700-SM1-A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy >
Page 1673
H/C 3251550
Defect code: 045
Contention code: B99
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Tires: > 06-082 > Dec > 06 > Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
06-082
December 15, 2006
Applies To: ALL
Tubeless Tire Repair Information
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Refer to the tire manufacturer for warranty information.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ 1/8 inch Patch-plug with lead wire
^ 1/4 inch Patch-plug with lead wire
^ 1/8 inch Plugs (stem)*
^ 1/4 inch Plugs (stem)*
^ 1/4 inch Patches*
^ 3/4 inch Patches*
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
^ Inner liner sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire stitcher, 1-1/2 inch wheel
^ Tire crayons
^ Tire test tank
^ Awl or probe
^ Flexible blade skiving knife
^ 1/8 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter
^ 1/4 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter
^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose
^ Carbide buffing wheel with adapter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Tires: > 06-082 > Dec > 06 > Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information > Page 1679
^ Reversible drill motor (800 RPM MAX)
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
* For repairable injuries that exceed 25 degrees
TIRE REPAIR GUIDELINES
Never repair tires worn below 2/32 inch of tread.
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
MICHELIN PAX SYSTEM SUPPORT RING INSPECTION
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service Precautions >
Technician Safety Information
Tires: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: This vehicle has a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). Refer to the SRS
component and wiring location view in order to determine whether you are performing service on or
near the SRS components or the SRS wiring. when you are performing service on or near the SRS
components or the SRS wiring, refer to the SRS service information. failure to follow warnings
could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SRS system
repairs.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service Precautions >
Technician Safety Information > Page 1682
Tires: Vehicle Damage Warnings
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. Honda will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. Honda will also call out the fasteners that require thread
lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings (Paints,
greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally,
such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping force, and may damage
the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications.
Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service Precautions >
Page 1683
Tires: Description and Operation
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Replacement wheels or tires must be equivalent to the originals in load capacity, specified
dimension and mounting configuration. Improper size or type may affect bearing life, brake
performance, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to
the body and chassis. All model are equipped with metric sized tubeless steel belted radial tires.
Correct tire pressures and driving habits have an important influence on tire life. Heavy cornering,
excessively rapid acceleration and unnecessary sharp braking increase premature and uneven
wear.
TREAD WEAR INDICATORS
The original equipment tires have built-in tread wear indicators (1) to show when tires need
replacement. These indicators may appear as wide bands. When the indicators appear in two or
more grooves at three locations, tire replacement is recommended.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
Tires: Testing and Inspection Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
TYPICAL EXAMPLES OF ABNORMAL TIRE AHEAD WEAR AND MAJOR CAUSES:
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
Tread Wear One-Sided
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
Localized Tread Wear
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1686
1. Once spotty wear develops in tread due to hard braking or abrupt starting, localized wear tends
to be promoted.
Shoulder Wear (Generally Wear Develops In Outer Shoulder):
1. Camber or toe-in incorrect. 2. Shoulder wear caused by repeated hard-cornering.
Wear In Shoulders At Points Opposed To Each Other
1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Play in bearings or ball joint.
Premature Wear In Shoulders
1. Flexing of tire excessive due to under-inflation.
One Sided Feather Edging
1. Wear caused by repeated hard cornering. 2. Camber or toe-in incorrect.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1687
Tires: Testing and Inspection Diagnosis By Symptom
Part 1 Of 2
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1688
Part 2 Of 2
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1689
Tires: Testing and Inspection Diagnosis List
If the following conditions are noted, rotation is required.
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
If the following conditions are noted, check the wheel alignment.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
Higher than recommended pressure can cause:
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
Lower than recommended pressure can cause:
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
Unequal pressure on same axle can cause:
1. Uneven braking. 2. Steering lead. 3. Reduced handling. 4. Swerve on acceleration.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1690
Tires: Testing and Inspection Irregular and Premature Wear
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1691
Tires: Testing and Inspection
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
TYPICAL EXAMPLES OF ABNORMAL TIRE AHEAD WEAR AND MAJOR CAUSES:
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
Tread Wear One-Sided
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1692
Localized Tread Wear
1. Once spotty wear develops in tread due to hard braking or abrupt starting, localized wear tends
to be promoted.
Shoulder Wear (Generally Wear Develops In Outer Shoulder):
1. Camber or toe-in incorrect. 2. Shoulder wear caused by repeated hard-cornering.
Wear In Shoulders At Points Opposed To Each Other
1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Play in bearings or ball joint.
Premature Wear In Shoulders
1. Flexing of tire excessive due to under-inflation.
One Sided Feather Edging
1. Wear caused by repeated hard cornering. 2. Camber or toe-in incorrect.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1693
Part 1 Of 2
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1694
Part 2 Of 2
Diagnosis List
If the following conditions are noted, rotation is required.
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
If the following conditions are noted, check the wheel alignment.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1695
Higher than recommended pressure can cause:
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
Lower than recommended pressure can cause:
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
Unequal pressure on same axle can cause:
1. Uneven braking. 2. Steering lead. 3. Reduced handling. 4. Swerve on acceleration.
Irregular and Premature Wear
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
Radial Tire Lead/Pull
"Lead/Pull" is vehicle deviation from a straight path, on a level road with no pressure on the
steering wheel. Lead is usually caused by:
1. Poorly manufactured radial tires. 2. Uneven brake adjustment. 3. Wheel alignment.
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a car. An example of this is placement of the
belt. Off-center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to develop a side force while rolling straight
down the road and the tire will tend to roll like a cone. The "Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction" chart
should be used to make sure that front wheel alignment is not mistaken for tire lead. Rear tires will
not cause lead/pull.
Radial Tire Waddle
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 1696
Waddle is side-to-side movement at the front and/or rear of the car. It can be caused by the steel
belt not being straight within the tire, or by excessive lateral runout of the tire or wheel. It is most
noticeable at low speed, about 8 to 48 km/h (5 to 30 mph). It may also cause rough ride at 80 to
113 km/h (50 to 70 mph). The car can be road tested to see which end of the car has the faulty tire.
If the tire causing the waddle is on the rear, the rear end of the car will "waddle". From the driver's
seat, it feels as if someone is pushing on the side of the car. If the faulty tire is on the front, the
waddle is more easily seen. The front sheet metal appears to be moving back and forth. It feels as
if the driver's seat is the pivot point in the car. Another more time-consuming method of determining
the faulty tire is substituting tire and wheel assemblies that are known to be good. Follow these
steps:
1. Drive the car to determine if the waddle is coming from the front or rear. 2. Install tire and wheel
assemblies known to be good (from a similar car) in place of those on the end of the car which is
waddling. If the waddle
cannot be isolated to front or rear, start with the rear tires.
3. Road test again. If improvement is noted, install the original tire and wheel assemblies one at a
time until the faulty tire is found. If no
improvement is noted, install tires known to be good in place of all four. Then, install the originals
one at a time until the faulty tire is found.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Tires: Service and Repair Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Use a tire changing machine to demount tires. Do not use hand tools or tire irons alone to remove
the tire from the wheel. Damage to the tire beads or wheel rim could result. Follow the tire changing
machine manufacturer's instructions to properly separate the tire from the wheel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 1699
Tires: Service and Repair Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
3. Attach the tire to the wheel.
a. Use a tire changing machine.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
4. Inflate the tire to operating pressure. 5. Check the bead seating.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 1700
Tires: Service and Repair Balancing
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
tramp. This condition will eventually cause uneven tire wear.
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 1701
Tires: Service and Repair Tire Rotation
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Front tire wear is different from rear.
- Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire.
- Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
- Wear is uneven across the tread of any front tire.
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 1702
Tires: Service and Repair
Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Use a tire changing machine to demount tires. Do not use hand tools or tire irons alone to remove
the tire from the wheel. Damage to the tire beads or wheel rim could result. Follow the tire changing
machine manufacturer's instructions to properly separate the tire from the wheel.
Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
3. Attach the tire to the wheel.
a. Use a tire changing machine.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
4. Inflate the tire to operating pressure. 5. Check the bead seating.
Balancing
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 1703
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
tramp. This condition will eventually cause uneven tire wear.
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Tire Rotation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 1704
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Front tire wear is different from rear.
- Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire.
- Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
- Wear is uneven across the tread of any front tire.
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Inflation of Tires
Tire pressure, in cold condition (after vehicle has set for three hours or more, and driven less than
one mile) should be checked monthly or before any extended trip. Tire pressure increases
approximately 15% when the tires become hot during driving. Tire pressure specification is shown
on the label located on the left door lock pillar.
NOTE: Check the tire pressure whenever irregular wear is found. Tire inflation greatly affects tire
wear. If the alignment check does not reveal any alignment problems, check the condition of the
shock absorbers and wheel/tire balance.
Tire Replacement
TIRE REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric the size should be used. Most metric tire sizes
do not have exact corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It is recommended that new tires be
installed in pairs on the same axle. If necessary to replace only one tire, it should be paired with tire
having the most tread, to equalize braking traction.
CAUTION: Do not mix different types of tires such as radial, bias and bias-belted tires except in
emergencies, because vehicle handling may be seriously affected and may result in loss of control.
Tire Dismounting
Remove valve cap on valve step and deflate the tire. Then use a tire changing machine to mount or
dismount tires. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instruction. Do not use hand tools or tire lever
alone to change tires as they may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 1705
Tire Mounting
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush or coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and
light rust. Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be well lubricated with an approved tire
lubricant. After mounting, inflate the tire to 196 kPa (28 psi) so that beads are completely seated.
Inflate the air to specified pressure and install valve cap to the stem.
WARNING: Never stand over tire when inflating. bead may break when bead snaps over rim's
safety hump and cause serious personal injury. never exceed 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure when
inflating. if 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, re-lubricate and re-inflate. over
inflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
Tire Repair
There are many different materials on the market used to repair tires. Manufacturers have
published detailed instructions on how and when to repair tires. These instructions can be obtained
from the tire manufacturer if they are not included with the repair kit.
Wheel Inspection
Damaged wheels and wheels with excessive run-out must be replaced. Wheel run out at rim (Base
on hub Bore):
General Balance Procedure
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 1706
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight
around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically unbalanced cause a bouncing action called tramp.
This condition will eventually cause uneven tire wear. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of
weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Adjustments
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
Wheel bearings and hub on these models are an integral assembly and bearings cannot be
adjusted. If hub endplay exceeds 0.002 inch with spindle nut properly tightened, hub and bearing
assembly should be replaced.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Raise spindle nut locking tab,
then remove spindle nut. 3. Remove brake hose bracket mounting bolts. 4. Remove caliper and
position aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose. 5. Remove brake disc
attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching screw holes to push disc
from hub. When tightening
screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent excessively cocking the brake disc.
6. Remove brake disc from knuckle. 7. Remove speed sensor wire bracket, then the speed sensor
from knuckle. 8. Remove tie rod end cotter pin and nut. 9. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod
end remover.
10. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way. 11. Using ball joint
remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent, separate ball joint and lower arm. 12. Remove
upper ball joint shield, then the cotter pin and nut. 13. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm
using suitable ball joint remover. 14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off
driveshaft. 15. Remove hub from steering knuckle using suitable press. 16. Remove knuckle ring,
circlip and splash guard from knuckle. 17. Press out wheel bearing from hub using driver tool No.
07749-0010000, attachment tool No. 07746-0010500 and base tool No. 07GAF-SE00401,
or equivalents.
18. Remove outboard bearing inner race from hub.
Fig. 4 Front Suspension
19. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Fig. 2 for tightening specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1712
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
Disc Brake Models
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove rear wheels. 2. Apply parking brake, then remove hub
cap. 3. Raise locking tab on spindle nut, then remove nut. 4. Remove 6 mm brake disc retaining
screw, then the caliper shield. 5. Remove brake hose mounting bolts, then the caliper bracket
mounting bolts. 6. Remove caliper and hang from undercarriage with short piece of wire. Do not
hang caliper by brake hose. 7. Screw two 12 mm bolts into disc to push disc off of hub. Remove
disc. 8. Remove hub unit from knuckle. 9. Reverse procedure to install.
Drum Brake Models
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove wheel and brake drum. 2. Remove grease cap,
spindle nut and washer. 3. Remove hub and bearing unit from spindle. 4. Reverse procedure to
install. Tighten spindle nut to specifications, then stake shoulder of nut into groove in spindle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information >
Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Spindle Nut ......................................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 134
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Specifications
Wheel Fastener: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Wheel Nut ............................................................................................................................................
................................................... 110 Nm (80 ft. lbs.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1727
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1728
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1729
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1730
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1731
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1732
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1733
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1734
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1735
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1736
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1737
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1738
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1739
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1740
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1741
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1742
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1743
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1744
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1745
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1746
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1747
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1748
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1749
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1773
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1774
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1775
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Check compression with engine at normal operating temperature and throttle in wide open position.
Prior to performing test, disable ignition and fuel injection to prevent fuel from being sprayed into
cylinders while cranking engine. Ensure is fully charged and that cranking speed is 250 RPM.
Standard reading should be 135-184 psi. The maximum variation between cylinders is 28 psi.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications
Camshaft Pulley Bolt 27 ft.lb
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Engine > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft: Specifications
Maximum Journal Run-out 0.001 in
Camshaft Bearing Clearance 0.002-0.004 in
Camshaft End Play 0.002-0.006 in
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Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1786
Camshaft: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures. On models equipped with airbag system,
refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove camshaft driven sprocket as described under Timing Belt.
3. Remove rocker arm assembly.
4. Carefully lift camshaft assembly from engine.
5. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following: a. Lubricate camshaft assembly prior to
installation. b. Tighten each bearing cap bolt two turns at a time in a criss-cross fashion starting
with center two caps and working outward, tighten to
specification.
c. After camshaft and rocker arms are installed, install new camshaft seal with spring side (open
side) facing in, using suitable seal installation
tool.
d. Adjust timing belt. Refer to Timing Belt.
6. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures. On models equipped with airbag system,
refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Specifications
Lifter / Lash Adjuster: Specifications
Maximum Journal Runout ....................................................................................................................
.............................................................. 0.001 inches Camshaft Bearing Clearance ..........................
..........................................................................................................................................
0.002-0.004 inches Camshaft Endplay ................................................................................................
.................................................................................... 0.002-0.006 inches Rocker Arm Oil
Clearance ............................................................................................................................................
..................................... 0.003 inches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Specifications
Rocker Arm Assembly: Specifications
ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT TORQUE AND SEQUENCE
Cam Holder Torque Sequence
Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in the sequence shown to ensure that the rockers do not bind
on the valves.
SPECIFIED TORQUE:
8mm bolts: 22 Nm (2.2 kg-m, 16 lb.ft.) 6mm bolts: 12 Nm (1.2 kg-m, 9 lb.ft.)
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Assembly > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1793
Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair
Fig. 25 Exploded View Of Rocker Arm Assembly
Disassemble one or all parts of rocker arm assembly as necessary, Fig. 25. Prior to removal,
identify all parts so they can be installed in their original locations.
When removing or installing rocker arm assembly, do not remove camshaft holder bolts. The bolts
will keep the holders, springs and rocker arms on the shaft. When reassembling, fit the projection
on the intake rocker shaft to the notch in the camshaft holder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1798
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1799
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1800
Fuse Details Schematics
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1801
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1802
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1803
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1804
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1805
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1806
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1807
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1808
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1809
Symbol Identification
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1810
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1812
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1813
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1814
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1816
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1817
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1818
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1819
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1820
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1821
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1844
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1845
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1846
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Connecting Rod Bearing: Service and Repair
Rod and main bearings are available in several oversizes and undersizes and are identified by the
color code on the edge of the bearing.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information
Connecting Rod: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information
Why Do Connecting Rods Break?
Curious why connecting rods break? Afier all, these are heavy-duty parts specifically designed to
endure punishing forces and temperatures. Yet, every once in a while they do bend or break and
wind up as cool conversation pieces for a coffee table or desk.
Connecting rods break only after they've gotten bent. And they won't get bent unless the engine
hydro-locks or the rod bearings fail.
When troubleshooting a bent or broken connecting rod, here are some things to consider:
^ The number one culprit for connecting rod breakage is hydro-lock. This happens when liquid
(water or fuel) entering the combustion chamber exceeds
the chamber's volume. Since liquids don't compress, that extra volume in the chamber causes the
rod to bend. You won't really notice anything wrong, until that bent rod finally gives out and breaks.
This could happen if you're driving through deep, standing water and someone coming the other
way splashes water over your hood. On very rare occasions, a bad ECM/PCM or fuel injector can
cause too much fuel to enter a cylinder, causing hydro-lock and resulting in a bent rod. Before this
happens, though, there are usually some kind of drive ability problems that crop up and remain
afier the engine is fixed.
A bent rod might not show any symptoms until it actually breaks. But bent rods leave a
wider-than-normal carbon witness line in the cylinder because they're shorter. Typically, a healthy
engine has a carbon line that's 6 mm deep. An engine that's suffering from bent rods has a second
carbon line that's 9 to 12 mm deep.
^ Connecting rod bearings fail for a number of reasons. To properly determine what actually
caused a rod bearing to fail, you've got to take apart all rod
bearings and main bearings and compare them side by side. If all or most of the bearings and
journals show similar damage (scoring, exposed copper, or heat discoloration) the likely cause is
oil starvation, poor maintenance, customer abuse, or running the engine with an aftermarket power
booster (nitrous oxide setup, supercharger, turbocharger). If only the bearing or journal for the
failed rod looks bad but all the other ones look good (no scoring, no exposed copper or heat
discoloration) and the crankshaft journals are smooth with no heat discoloration, then that particular
bearing/ clearance would be suspect.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Specifications > Torque Specifications
Connecting Rod: Specifications Torque Specifications
Connecting Rod Bolt ............................................................................................................................
....................................................... 32 Nm (23 lb ft)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Specifications > Torque Specifications > Page 1857
Connecting Rod: Specifications
Connecting Rods (Lower) Bore Diameter 1.7717 in
93honrep-033
Side Clearance 0.006-0.012 in
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1858
Connecting Rod: Testing and Inspection
SELECTION
Each rod is sorted into one of four tolerance ranges (from 0 to + 0.024 mm (0 to + 0.0009 inch), in
0.006 mm (0.0002 inch) increments) depending on the size of its big end bore. It's then stamped
with a number (1, 2, 3, or 4) indicating the range. You may find any combination of 1, 2, 3, or 4 in
any engine.
Normal Bore Size: 45.0 mm (1.77 inch)
NOTE: Reference numbers are for big end bore size and do NOT indicate the position of the rod in the
engine.
- Inspect connecting rod for cracks and heat damage.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1859
Connecting Rod: Service and Repair
Fig. 57 Piston & Connecting Rod Assembly
Install piston to rod as shown, Fig. 57. Pistons are available in standard and oversizes of 0.010 and
0.020 inches.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Service and Repair
Rod and main bearings are available in several oversizes and undersizes and are identified by the
color code on the edge of the bearing.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Crankshaft: Specifications
Standard Journal Diameter:
Main Bearing .......................................................................................................................................
...................................... 1.7707-1.7717 inches Rod Journal Diameter ...............................................
................................................................................................................. 1.6526-1.6535 inches
Out of Round Maximum .......................................................................................................................
............................................................... 0.0001 inch Taper Maximum ...............................................
...................................................................................................................................................
0.0001 inch End Play ...........................................................................................................................
........................................................................ 0.004-0.014 inches Total Runout, Maximum ..............
..............................................................................................................................................................
........... 0.001 inch
Bearing Clearance:
Main Bearings ......................................................................................................................................
................................................................. [01] Connecting Rod Bearings
..........................................................................................................................................................
0.0008-0.0015 inches
[01] -- Nos. 1 & 5 journals, 0.0007-0.0014 inches; Nos. 2, 3 and 4 journals, 0.0009-0.0017 inches.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal
Crankshaft: Service and Repair Removal
CRANKSHAFT REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil pan assembly.
2. Remove the right side cover. 3. Remove the oil screen.
4. Remove the oil pump.
5. Remove the bolts and the bearing caps.
CAUTION: To prevent warpage unscrew the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time, repeat the
sequence until all bolts are loosened.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 1868
6. Remove the rod caps/bearings and main caps/bearings. Keep all caps/bearing in order.
7. Lift the crankshaft out of the engine, being careful not to damage journals. 8. Remove the upper
bearing halves from the connecting rods and set them aside with their respective caps. 9. Reinstall
the main caps and bearings on the engine in proper order.
10. If you can feel ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a
ridge reamer. Follow the reamer manufacturer's
instructions.
CAUTION: If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the pistons as they are pushed out.
11. Use the wooden handle of a hammer to drive the pistons out. 12. Reinstall the connecting rod
bearings and caps after removing each piston/connecting rod assembly. 13. Mark each
piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number to avoid mix-up on reassembly.
NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not indicate its position in the engine, it
indicates the rod bore size.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 1869
Crankshaft: Service and Repair Inspection
CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION
- Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush.
- Check the keyway and threads.
ALIGNMENT
- Measure runout on all main journals to make sure the crank is not bent.
- The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit.
Crankshaft Total Indicated Runout:
Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.001 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.04 mm (0.002 inch)
OUT-OF-ROUND AND TAPER
- Measure out-of-round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places.
- The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit.
Journal Out-of-Round:
Standard (New): 0.0025 mm (0.0001 inch) max.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 1870
Service Limit: 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch)
- Measure taper at the edges of each rod and main journal.
- The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit.
Journal Taper:
Standard (New): 0.0025 mm (0.0001 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 1871
Crankshaft: Service and Repair Installation
CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION
NOTE: Before installing the crankshaft, apply a coat of engine oil to the main bearings and rod
bearings.
1. Insert the bearing halves into the cylinder block and connecting rods. 2. Hold the crankshaft so
the rod journals for cylinders No. 2 and No. 3 are straight down.
3. Lower the crankshaft into the block, seating the rod journals into connecting rods No. 2 and No.
3, and install the rod caps and nuts finger-tight. 4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, seat journals
into connecting rods No. 1 and No. 4, and install the rod caps and nuts finger-tight.
NOTE: Install caps so the bearing recess is on the same side as the recess in the rod.
5. Check rod bearing clearance with plastigage, then torque the cap nuts. Apply engine oil to the
bolt threads.
Torque: 31 Nm (3.2 kgs.cm, 23 ft.lbs.)
NOTE: Reference numbers on connecting rod are for big-end bore tolerance and do not indicate
the position of piston in the engine.
6. Install the thrust washers on the No. 4 journal. Oil the thrust washer surfaces.
7. Install the main bearing caps. Check clearance with plastigage, then tighten the bearing cap
bolts in 2 steps.
First step: 25 Nm (2.5 kgs.cm, 18 ft.lbs.) Second step: 51 Nm (5.2 kgs.cm, 38 ft.lbs.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 1872
NOTE: Coat the bolt threads with oil. -
Use liquid gasket, part No. 08718-0001 or 08718-0003.
- Check that the mating surfaces are clean and dry before applying liquid gasket.
- Apply liquid gasket evenly, being careful to cover all the mating surface.
- To prevent oil leakage, apply liquid gasket to the inner threads of the bolt holes.
- Do not install the parts if 5 minutes or more have elapsed since applying the liquid gasket.
- Instead reapply liquid gasket after removing the old residue.
- After assembly, wait at least 20 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
8. Apply liquid gasket to the block mating surface of the right side cover, then install it on the
cylinder block.
9. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pump mating surface of the block, then install the oil pump on the
cylinder block.
NOTE: Do not apply liquid gasket to O-ring grooves. Apply a light coat of oil to the crankshaft and
to the lip of the oil seal. Use new O-rings and apply oil when installing them.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 1873
10. Install the oil screen.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 1874
11. Apply liquid gasket on oil pump and right side cover mating areas.
12. Install the oil pan gasket and oil pan.
NOTE:
- Use a new oil pan gasket.
- Install oil pan no more than five minutes after liquid gasket applied.
13. Tighten nuts finger tight at six points as shown. 14. Tighten all bolts and nuts starting from nut 1
clockwise in three steps.
NOTE: Excessive tighting can cause distortion of the oil pan gasket and oil leakage.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Specifications
Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley: Specifications
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt 134 ft.lb
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Piston: Service and Repair
PISTON
NOTE: Refer to Crankshaft Service and Repair for removal procedure.See: Crankshaft/Service and
Repair
1. Assemble the special tool as shown.
2. Adjust the length of piston pin driver to 53 mm (2.1 in) as shown. 3. Place the piston on the
special tool and press the pin out with a hydraulic press.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 1881
Fig. 57 Piston & Connecting Rod Assembly
Install piston to rod as shown, Fig. 57. Pistons are available in standard and oversizes of 0.010 and
0.020 inches.
NOTE: Before installing the piston, apply a coat of engine oil to the ring grooves and cylinder
bores.
1. If the crankshaft is already installed:
- Remove the connecting rod caps and slip short sections of rubber hose over the threaded ends of
the connecting rod bolts.
- Install the ring compressor, check that the bearing is securely in place, then position the piston in
the cylinder and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer.
- Stop after the ring compressor pops free and check the connecting rod-to-crank journal alignment
before tapping piston into place.
- Install the rod caps with bearings, and torque the nuts to 32 N.m 13.2 kg-m, 23 lb-ft)
2. If the crankshaft is not installed:
- Remove the rod caps and bearings, install the ring compressor, then position the piston in the
cylinder and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer. Position all pistons at top dead center.
NOTE: Maintain downward force on the ring compressor to prevent rings from expanding before
entering the cylinder bore.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Piston Pin: Specifications
Piston Pin Diameter .............................................................................................................................
................................................ 0.7478-0.7480 inches
Piston Pin To Piston Clearance
............................................................................................................................................................
0.0004-0.0009 inches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Piston Ring: Specifications
Piston Diameter (Std.) .........................................................................................................................
................................................. 2.9520-2.9524 inches Piston Clearance ............................................
......................................................................................................................................
0.0004-0.0009 inches Piston Pin Diameter .........................................................................................
.................................................................................... 0.7478-0.7480 inches Piston Pin To Piston
Clearance
............................................................................................................................................................
0.0004-0.0009 inches Piston Ring End Gap:
Top ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 0.006-0.012 inches Second .....................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 0.012-0.018 inches Oil ..
..............................................................................................................................................................
.................................. 0.008-0.031 inches
Piston Ring To Groove Clearance
Top Ring ..............................................................................................................................................
...................................... 0.0012-0.0024 inches Second Ring .............................................................
.................................................................................................................. 0.0012-0.0022 inches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
Valve Clearance
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 0.007-0.009 inches
Exhaust ................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 0.009-0.011 inches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 1892
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Valves should be adjusted only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F
(38°C). Adjustment is the same for intake and exhaust
valves. ^
After adjusting, Retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 Nm (134 ft. lbs.).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
2. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC. "UP" mark on the camshaft pulley should be at top, and TDC marks
should align with the cylinder head surface. The
crankshaft pulley should be at TDC.
3. Adjust valves on No. 1 cylinder.
- Intake: 0.18-0.22 mm (0.007-0.009 inch)
- Exhaust: 0.23-0.27 mm (0.009-0.011 inch)
4. Loosen the locknut, and turn the adjustment screw until the feeler gauge slides back and forth
with a slight amount of drag.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 1893
CAUTION: Do not overtighten the locknuts; the rocker arms are made of aluminum.
5. Tighten the locknut, and check the clearance again. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
6. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). The "UP" mark should
be on the exhaust side. Adjust valves on No. 3
cylinder.
7. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No. 4 piston to TDC. Both TDC grooves
are once again visible. Adjust valves on No. 4
cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 1894
8. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No. 2 piston to TDC. The UP" mark should
be on the intake side. Adjust valves on No. 2
cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the Fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from your work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the Ignition Switch is off.
NOTE: Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the 6 mm
service bolt on top of the fuel filter.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove the fuel fill
cap. 3. Use a box end wrench on the 6 mm service bolt at the fuel filter, while holding the special
banjo bolt with another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6 mm service bolt. 5. Slowly loosen the 6 mm service bolt one
complete turn.
NOTE: A fuel pressure gauge can be attached at the 6 mm service bolt hole.
- Always replace the washer between the service bolt and the special banjo bolt whenever the
service bolt is loosened.
- Replace all washers whenever the bolts are removed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Specifications
Rocker Arm Assembly: Specifications
ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT TORQUE AND SEQUENCE
Cam Holder Torque Sequence
Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in the sequence shown to ensure that the rockers do not bind
on the valves.
SPECIFIED TORQUE:
8mm bolts: 22 Nm (2.2 kg-m, 16 lb.ft.) 6mm bolts: 12 Nm (1.2 kg-m, 9 lb.ft.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1901
Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair
Fig. 25 Exploded View Of Rocker Arm Assembly
Disassemble one or all parts of rocker arm assembly as necessary, Fig. 25. Prior to removal,
identify all parts so they can be installed in their original locations.
When removing or installing rocker arm assembly, do not remove camshaft holder bolts. The bolts
will keep the holders, springs and rocker arms on the shaft. When reassembling, fit the projection
on the intake rocker shaft to the notch in the camshaft holder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Specifications
Valve Guide: Specifications
Cylinder Head Warpage Limit ..............................................................................................................
............................................................. 0.002 inches Cylinder Head Minimum Thickness ..................
................................................................................................................................................. 3.738
inches Valve Guides:
Standard Inside Diameter ....................................................................................................................
........................................... 0.217-0.218 inches Stem To Guide Clearance:
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................... 0.001-0.002 inches Exhaust ...........................................................................
......................................................................................................... 0.002-0.003 inches
Valve Seats:
Seat Angle, Degrees ...........................................................................................................................
...................................................................... 45 Seat Width:
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 0.033-0.045 Exhaust ...........................................................................
......................................................................................................... 0.049-0.061 inches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1905
Valve Guide: Service and Repair
1. Heat cylinder head to 300°F (150°C) before removing or installing valve guides.
2. Drive valve guide out bottom of cylinder head using a valve guide driver tool and suitable
hammer.
3. Reheat cylinder head if necessary.
4. Using suitable valve guide installation tool, drive valve guide into place until tool bottoms. Reheat
cylinder head as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Seat > Component
Information > Specifications
Valve Seat: Specifications
Cylinder Head Warpage Limit ..............................................................................................................
............................................................. 0.002 inches Cylinder Head Minimum Thickness ..................
................................................................................................................................................. 3.738
inches Valve Guides:
Standard Inside Diameter ....................................................................................................................
........................................... 0.217-0.218 inches Stem To Guide Clearance:
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................... 0.001-0.002 inches Exhaust ...........................................................................
......................................................................................................... 0.002-0.003 inches
Valve Seats:
Seat Angle, Degrees ...........................................................................................................................
...................................................................... 45 Seat Width:
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 0.033-0.045 Exhaust ...........................................................................
......................................................................................................... 0.049-0.061 inches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Spring >
Component Information > Specifications
Valve Spring: Specifications
Free Length .........................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. [01]
[01] -- Intake valve, 2.043 inches; exhaust valve, 2.176 inches, NIHON HATSUJO; 2.178 inches,
CHUO HATSUJO.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Bulletin No. 96-014
Issue Date Feb. 20, 1996
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
File Under SPECIAL TOOLS
Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Tensioning the engine belts properly with the belt tension gauge (T/N 07JGG-001010A) is critical to
bearing life of the A/C compressor, alternator, etc. Calibration of the belt tension gauge should be
checked regularly.
CALIBRATION
A Belt Tension Gauge Checker, needed for checking the calibration of the belt tension gauge, is
now available. One checker is being automatically shipped to each dealership. Additional checkers
may be ordered through normal parts ordering channels. The part number is 07TGG-001010A.
Procedure
1. Push the handle and slide the checker into the gauge. Position the checker as shown.
2. Release the handle and read the tension value on the Kg scale.
3. Compare your reading to the value etched on the checker. Your gauge is in calibration if it is
within +/- 3 kg of the checker value.
If your belt tension gauge is out of calibration, you cannot recalibrate it yourself. Contact America
Kowa Seiki about sending it for recalibration.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair >
Page 1917
If your belt tension gauge is damaged, replacement parts are available from America Kowa Seiki.
They are:
REPAIR AND CALIBRATION INFORMATION
To order replacement parts for a gauge, contact:
America Kowa Seiki 20013 S. Rancho Way Rancho Dominguez, CA 90220
(800) 824-9655
To return your belt tension gauge for calibration:
^ Contact America Kowa Seiki for authorization and shipping instructions.
^ Pack the belt tension gauge in a suitable box. Use "bubble pack" to protect the gauge.
^ Ship according to their instructions.
America Kowa Seiki will charge a fixed fee to inspect, clean and calibrate the belt tension gauge,
and return it via UPS ground. Any repair parts needed are extra. The gauge will be returned within
15 days.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1918
Drive Belt: Specifications
Air Conditioning
Deflection, Inches [01]:
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.20-0.28 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.26-0.41
Alternator
Deflection, Inches [01]:
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.22-0.31 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.28-0.41
Power Steering
Deflection, Inches [01]:
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.24-0.37 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.31-0.47
[01] -- Measured using 22 ft. lbs. force.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Pressure >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Engine Oil Pressure: Testing and Inspection
OIL PRESSURE TESTING
(2.2L engine shown other engines are similar)
If the oil pressure warning light stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level. If the
oil level is correct:
1. Connect a tachometer. 2. Remove the engine oil pressure switch and install an oil pressure
gauge. 3. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the
problem before continuing. 4. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at
least twice). The pressure should be:
- Engine Oil Temperature: 176°F (80°C)
- Engine Oil Pressure:
- At Idle: 69 kPa (10 psi) minimum
- At 3,000 rpm: 340 kPa (50 psi) minimum If oil pressure is within specifications, replace the oil pressure switch and recheck.
- If oil pressure is NOT within specifications, inspect the oil pump.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard
SOURCE: Honda Service News
TITLE: Use ONLY New GF-4 Standard Engine Oil
APPLIES TO: All Models
SERVICE TIP:
There's a new performance standard for engine oil: GF-4. It was jointly developed by automotive
and oil experts, and it represents a significant performance upgrade and improvement in fuel
economy. GF-4 engine oils must pass grueling tests totaling over 500 hours. On top of this, Honda
Genuine engine oils are also tested to ensure specific compatibility with Honda vehicles.
GF-4 engine oil is compatible with all current and earlier model year Honda cars and trucks. It also
provides these added benefits:
- Improved oxidation resistance (reduced thickening of the oil)
- Improved deposit protection and better wear protection
- Better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil
- Environmental protection by extending the life of emissions systems
While Honda has upgraded its engine oil to GF-4, other brands may not yet be at this new
standard. Keep in mind you must use Honda Genuine engine oil for all warranty repairs. If you use
some other brand of oil for non-warranty repairs, make sure that oil meets the GF-4 standard. We
recommend you stop using non-GF-4 engine oils and check with your supplier that you're
purchasing GF-4 oil.
Engine oil produced after April 1, 2005, that meets the GF-4 standard, must post this starburst
certification mark on the container. Always look for this mark; some oil container labels won't
specifically refer to GF-4.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil Capacity
For Engine Overhaul
...........................................................................................................................................................
4.0 L (4.2 US qts. 3.5 Imp.qt) For Oil Change, Including Filter
....................................................................................................................................... 3.3 L (3.5 US
qts. 2.9 Imp.qts)
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
API Service Grade
............................................................................................................................................ SG or SH
"Energy Conserving II" grade oil.
Specified viscosities:
SAE 5W-30 (Preferred) SAE 10W-30
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 1929
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Engine Oil Capacity
For Engine Overhaul
...........................................................................................................................................................
4.0 L (4.2 US qts. 3.5 Imp.qt) For Oil Change, Including Filter
....................................................................................................................................... 3.3 L (3.5 US
qts. 2.9 Imp.qts)
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
API Service Grade
............................................................................................................................................ SG or SH
"Energy Conserving II" grade oil.
Specified viscosities:
SAE 5W-30 (Preferred) SAE 10W-30
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Oil Pan: Service and Repair
1. On manual transmission models, remove flywheel cover.
2. On automatic transmission models, remove drive plate cover.
3. Remove oil pan attaching bolts and nuts, then the oil pan.
4. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten retaining bolts to specification in cross pattern, moving
outward from center.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1937
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1938
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1939
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1940
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1941
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1942
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1943
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1944
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1945
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1946
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1947
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1948
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1949
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1950
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1951
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1952
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1953
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1954
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1955
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1956
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1957
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1958
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1959
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1960
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Oil Pressure Indicator System
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Pressure > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Engine Oil Pressure: Testing and Inspection
OIL PRESSURE TESTING
(2.2L engine shown other engines are similar)
If the oil pressure warning light stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level. If the
oil level is correct:
1. Connect a tachometer. 2. Remove the engine oil pressure switch and install an oil pressure
gauge. 3. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the
problem before continuing. 4. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at
least twice). The pressure should be:
- Engine Oil Temperature: 176°F (80°C)
- Engine Oil Pressure:
- At Idle: 69 kPa (10 psi) minimum
- At 3,000 rpm: 340 kPa (50 psi) minimum If oil pressure is within specifications, replace the oil pressure switch and recheck.
- If oil pressure is NOT within specifications, inspect the oil pump.
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Specifications
Intake Manifold: Specifications
For the Specifications for Intake Manifold, go to Engine/Specifications.
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2000
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2003
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2005
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2006
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2009
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2048
Oil Pressure Indicator System
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Service and Repair
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures. On models equipped with airbag system,
refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove engine/transmission assembly.
3. Remove transmission, then the flywheel housing and flywheel.
4. Remove oil pan.
5. Remove oil seal, using seal removal tool.
6. Clean seal seating surfaces thoroughly, apply a light coat of oil to crankshaft and lip of seal and
position seal with part number side facing out.
7. Drive seal until it bottoms against block using suitable seal installer tool.
8. Install oil pan and then install engine and transmission assembly in vehicle.
9. Fill crankcase and check for leaks.
10. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Cylinder Head Gasket
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Cylinder Head Gasket: > 97-047 > Nov > 97
> Engine - Cylinder Head Gasket Leaks
Cylinder Head Gasket: Customer Interest Engine - Cylinder Head Gasket Leaks
97-047
November 10, 1997
Applies To: 1988 - 95 Civic - All, except VTEC
Head Gasket Leaks (Supersedes 97-047, dated September 29, 1997)
PROBLEM
The head gasket leaks oil externally or allows coolant into the combustion chambers.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install the new style cylinder head gasket and the new head bolts in the Cylinder Gasket Kit listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Use the cylinder head bolt torque sequence described in this
bulletin.
PARTS INFORMATION
Cylinder Gasket Kit: H/C ***0031 Kit includes: Cylinder Head Gasket (new-style): P/N
12251-P01-004, H/C 4489530 Cylinder Head Bolts (10 required, use with new-style gasket): P/N
90005-PM3-004, H/C 2894988
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed part: P/N 12251-PM5-S02 [NEW] H/C 4032470
Defect code: 060
Contention code: B06
Skill level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the cylinder head. (See Cylinder Head Removal in section 6 of the appropriate service
manual.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Cylinder Head Gasket
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Cylinder Head Gasket: > 97-047 > Nov > 97
> Engine - Cylinder Head Gasket Leaks > Page 2061
2. Carefully remove all gasket material from the head and the block with gasket solvent and a
heavy duty scraper. The head and block mating surfaces must be clean, flat, and smooth for the
new head gasket to seal properly.
NOTE:
Do not use power tools or abrasives to remove the gasket material; they would damage the head
and block surfaces, causing the new head gasket to leak.
3. Before the gasket solvent dries, rinse any pieces of the gasket from the coolant passages in the
head and block with water. You must remove all of the gasket material to prevent engine
overheating.
4. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Do not use any gasket sealers.
5. Apply engine oil to the threads and washers of the new cylinder bolts. Install the bolts, and
torque them in the sequence and steps shown. Do not use the head bolt tightening steps in the
service manual.
Step 1. Tighten all 10 bolts to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft). Step 2. Tighten all 10 bolts to 49 Nm (36 lb-ft). Step
3. Tighten all 10 bolts to 67 Nm (49 lb-ft). Step 4. Tighten bolts 1 and 2 to 67 Nm (49 lb-ft).
6. Reinstall the parts you removed to replace the head gasket. (See Cylinder Head Installation in
section 6 of the appropriate service manual.)
7. Test drive the vehicle, and check for external oil leaks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Cylinder Head Gasket
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Cylinder Head Gasket: >
97-047 > Nov > 97 > Engine - Cylinder Head Gasket Leaks
Cylinder Head Gasket: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Cylinder Head Gasket Leaks
97-047
November 10, 1997
Applies To: 1988 - 95 Civic - All, except VTEC
Head Gasket Leaks (Supersedes 97-047, dated September 29, 1997)
PROBLEM
The head gasket leaks oil externally or allows coolant into the combustion chambers.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install the new style cylinder head gasket and the new head bolts in the Cylinder Gasket Kit listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Use the cylinder head bolt torque sequence described in this
bulletin.
PARTS INFORMATION
Cylinder Gasket Kit: H/C ***0031 Kit includes: Cylinder Head Gasket (new-style): P/N
12251-P01-004, H/C 4489530 Cylinder Head Bolts (10 required, use with new-style gasket): P/N
90005-PM3-004, H/C 2894988
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed part: P/N 12251-PM5-S02 [NEW] H/C 4032470
Defect code: 060
Contention code: B06
Skill level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the cylinder head. (See Cylinder Head Removal in section 6 of the appropriate service
manual.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Cylinder Head Gasket
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Cylinder Head Gasket: >
97-047 > Nov > 97 > Engine - Cylinder Head Gasket Leaks > Page 2067
2. Carefully remove all gasket material from the head and the block with gasket solvent and a
heavy duty scraper. The head and block mating surfaces must be clean, flat, and smooth for the
new head gasket to seal properly.
NOTE:
Do not use power tools or abrasives to remove the gasket material; they would damage the head
and block surfaces, causing the new head gasket to leak.
3. Before the gasket solvent dries, rinse any pieces of the gasket from the coolant passages in the
head and block with water. You must remove all of the gasket material to prevent engine
overheating.
4. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Do not use any gasket sealers.
5. Apply engine oil to the threads and washers of the new cylinder bolts. Install the bolts, and
torque them in the sequence and steps shown. Do not use the head bolt tightening steps in the
service manual.
Step 1. Tighten all 10 bolts to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft). Step 2. Tighten all 10 bolts to 49 Nm (36 lb-ft). Step
3. Tighten all 10 bolts to 67 Nm (49 lb-ft). Step 4. Tighten bolts 1 and 2 to 67 Nm (49 lb-ft).
6. Reinstall the parts you removed to replace the head gasket. (See Cylinder Head Installation in
section 6 of the appropriate service manual.)
7. Test drive the vehicle, and check for external oil leaks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications
Camshaft Pulley Bolt 27 ft.lb
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Diagrams
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2075
Timing Belt: Testing and Inspection
TIMING BELT INSPECTION
NOTE:
- Replace the belt if oil or coolant soaked. - Remove any oil or solvent that gets on the belt.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the timing belt upper cover. 3. Inspect the timing
belt for cracks and oil or coolant soaking. 4. After inspecting, retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to
specified torque.
Specified Torque: 185 N.m (18.5 kg-m, 134 lb-ft)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2076
Timing Belt: Adjustments
TIMING BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT
CAUTION: Always adjust the timing belt tension with the engine cold.
NOTE:
- The tensioner is spring-loaded to apply proper tension to the belt automatically after making the
following adjustment. - Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley
side. Rotating it clockwise may result in improper adjustment of the belt tension.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the timing belt upper cover. 3. Set the No.1 piston
at top dead center (TDC). 4. Loosen the adjusting bolt 180°. 5. Rotate the crankshaft
counterclockwise 3-teeth on the camshaft pulley to create tension on the timing belt. 6. Make sure
the timing belt and the camshaft pulley are engaged securely. 7. Torque the adjusting bolt to 45
N.m (4.5 kg-m, 33 lb-ft). 8. After adjusting, retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to specified torque.
Specified Torque: 185 N.m (18.5 kg-m, 134 lb-ft)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2077
Timing Belt: Service and Repair
TIMING BELT REMOVAL
CAUTION: Inspect the water pump when replacing the timing belt.
NOTE: Turn the crankshaft so that No.1 piston is at top-dead-center.
- Before removing the timing belt, mark its direction of rotation if it to be reused.
1. Remove the splash shield.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2078
2. Remove the power steering pump.
- Do not disconnect the P/S hoses.
3. On vehicles with A/C remove the A/C compressor adjusting pulley with bracket and the belt. 4.
Remove the P/S bracket.
5. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and pivot nut, then remove the belt. 6. Remove the cruise
control actuator.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2079
7. Remove the engine support nuts. Loosen the mount bolt and pivot the side engine mount out of
the way. 8. Remove the cylinder head cover. 9. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
10. Remove the special bolt and crankshaft pulley. 11. Remove the timing belt upper cover and the
lower cover. 12. Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt 180°. 13. Push the tensioner to release
tension from the belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt. 14. Remove the timing belt from the pulleys.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2080
TIMING BELT INSTALLATION
1. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal; Only key points are described here.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2081
2. Position the crankshaft and the camshaft pulleys as shown before installing the timing belt.
A. Set the crankshaft so that the No.1 piston is at top dead center (TDC). Align the groove on the
teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the
pointer on the oil pump.
B. Align the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley with the cylinder head upper surface.
3. Install the timing belt tightly in the sequence shown.
(1) Timing belt drive pulley (crankshaft) -> (2) Adjusting pulley -> (3) Water pump pulley -> (4)
Camshaft pulley.
4. Loosen the adjusting bolt, and retighten it after tensioning the belt. 5. Rotate the crankshaft
about 4 or 6 turns counterclockwise so that the belt positions on the pulleys. 6. Adjust the timing
belt tension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2082
Crankshaft Pulley
Camshaft Pulley
7. Check the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulley at TDC. 8. If the camshaft pulley is not
positioned at TDC remove the timing belt and adjust the positioning and repeat the installation
procedure and reinstall
the timing belt.
After installation, adjust the tension of each belt.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt Tensioner >
Component Information > Specifications
Timing Belt Tensioner: Specifications
Tensioner Adjusting Bolt 33 ft.lb
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Specifications
Timing Cover: Specifications
Timing Cover Bolts 7 ft.lb
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2094
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2095
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2096
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2097
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2098
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2099
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2100
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2101
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2102
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2103
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2104
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2105
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2106
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2107
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2108
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2109
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2110
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2111
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2112
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2113
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2138
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2139
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2140
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2141
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2142
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
MAR 10, 1997
Applies To: ALL Models
New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts >
Page 2151
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
Replacement washers come in a set of five (T/N 07406-0040300).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2152
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
At Curb Idle
With Vacuum Hose Connected
.......................................................................................................................................................
215-265 kPa (31-38 psi) With Vacuum Hose Disconnected
...................................................................................................................................................
280-330 kPa (40-47 psi)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2153
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
1. Relieve fuel pressure. 2. Remove the service bolt on the fuel filter while holding the banjo bolt
with another wrench. Attach the special tool. 3. Start the engine *. Measure the fuel pressure with
the engine idling and vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel
pressure regulator and pinched.
Pressure should be: 280-330 kPa (2.8-3.3 kg/cm2, 40-47 psi)
4. Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
Pressure should be: 215-265 kPa (2.15-2.65 kg/cm2, 31-38 psi)
^ If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch on, wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back
on again and read the fuel pressure.
^ If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the fuel is OK, check the
following:
^ If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, inspect for: Pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
^ If the fuel pressure is lower than specified, inspect for: Clogged fuel filter.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator. Leakage in the fuel hoses or pipes.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air/Fuel
Mixture > System Information > Adjustments
Air/Fuel Mixture: Adjustments
The Air/Fuel mixture is controlled by the engine control module and is not adjustable.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
IDLE SPEED
Manual transmission ............................................................................................................................
................................................. 670 RPM [01] Automatic transmission ..............................................
........................................................................................................................... 670 RPM [01]
[01] -- Transmission in Neutral or Park, headlights and cooling fan OFF.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications > Page 2160
Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection
1. Start the engine and allow it to warm-up (the radiator fan comes on).
2. Connect a tachometer to the test tachometer connector.
NOTE: All electrical systems should be turned OFF.
IDLE SPEED:
(M/T) in neutral:
(USA): 670 ± 50 rpm (Canada): 750 ± 50 rpm
(A/T) in [N] or [P]:
(USA): 700 ± 50 rpm (Canada): 750 ± 50 rpm
3. Adjust the idle speed, if necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications > Page 2161
Idle Speed: Adjustments
NOTE: ^
When the idle speed set, check the following items: The MIL has not been reported on.
- Ignition timing
- Spark plugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
^ (Canada) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights are off.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (A/T in [N] or [P] position, M/T in
neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it
idle.
2. Connect a tachometer.
3. Disconnect the 2P connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. 4. Start the engine with the
accelerator pedal slightly depressed. Stabilize the rpm at 1,000, then slowly release the pedal until
the engine idles.
5. Check idling in no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, rear defogger, radiator fan, and air
conditioning are not operating.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 420 +/- 50 rpm Others: 420 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 420 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
Adjust the idle speed, if necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw.
NOTE: After adjusting the idle speed in this step, check the ignition timing. If it is out of spec, go
back to step 4.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
7. Reconnect the 2P connector on the IAC valve, then remove BACK UP (7.5 A) fuse in the
under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the
ECM.
8. Restart and idle the engine with no-load conditions for one minute, then check the idle speed.
NOTE: (Canada) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights
are off.
Idle speed should be:
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications > Page 2162
M/T D15Z1 engine: 600 +/- 50 rpm Others: 670 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 700 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
9. Idle the engine for one minute with headlights (Low) ON and check the idle speed.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 700 +/- 50 rpm Others: 750 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 750 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
10. Turn the headlights off.
Idle the engine for one minute with heater fan switch at HI and air conditioner on, then check the
idle speed.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 810 +/- 50 rpm Others: 810 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 810 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, see System Troubleshooting Guide.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the Fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from your work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the Ignition Switch is off.
NOTE: Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the 6 mm
service bolt on top of the fuel filter.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove the fuel fill
cap. 3. Use a box end wrench on the 6 mm service bolt at the fuel filter, while holding the special
banjo bolt with another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6 mm service bolt. 5. Slowly loosen the 6 mm service bolt one
complete turn.
NOTE: A fuel pressure gauge can be attached at the 6 mm service bolt hole.
- Always replace the washer between the service bolt and the special banjo bolt whenever the
service bolt is loosened.
- Replace all washers whenever the bolts are removed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing
Order > Component Information > Specifications
Firing Order: Specifications
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > System Check Connector <--> [Ignition Timing Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
System Check Connector: Component Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > System Check Connector <--> [Ignition Timing Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 2178
System Check Connector: Connector Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations
Number One Cylinder: Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Specifications
Ignition Cable: Specifications
Resistance at 20°C (68°F) ...................................................................................................................
......................................................... 25 K Ohms max
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Ignition Cable: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2190
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2191
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2192
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2193
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2194
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2195
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2196
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2197
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2198
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2199
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2200
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2201
Symbol Identification
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Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2202
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Ignition Cable: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Cable > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2239
Ignition Cable: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: Carefully remove the ignition wires by pulling on the rubber boots. Do not bend the
wires; you might break them inside.
1. Check the condition of the wire terminals. If any terminal is corroded, clean it, and if it is broken
or distorted, replace the wire.
2. Connect ohmmeter probes and measure resistance.
Resistance: 25 k Ohms max. at 70° F (20°C)
3. If resistance exceeds 25 k Ohms, replace the ignition wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Distributor Cap > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Distributor Cap: Testing and Inspection
Check the following points, repair or replace as needed if a problem is found.
1. There must be no cracking in the cap. 2. There must be no damage to the cap's electrodes. 3.
Clean away any accumulated dirt from the cap.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Ignition Rotor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Ignition Rotor: Testing and Inspection
Check the following points, repair or replace as needed if a problem is found.
1. There must be no cracking in the rotor. 2. There must be no damage to the rotor's electrode. 3.
Clean away any accumulated dirt from the rotor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Gap and Torque
Spark Plug: Specifications Gap and Torque
Spark Plug Gap ...................................................................................................................................
........................................................ 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
Spark Plug Torque ...............................................................................................................................
......................................................... 18 Nm (13 ft lb)
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Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2252
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Spark Plug Inspection
1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator for:
Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: ^
Advanced ignition timing
^ Loose spark plug
^ Plug heat range too low
^ Insufficient cooling
Fouled plug may be caused by: ^
Retarded ignition timing
^ Oil in combustion chamber
^ Incorrect spark plug gap
^ Plug heat range too high
^ Excessive idling/low speed running
^ Clogged air cleaner element
^ Deteriorated ignition coil or ignition wires
2. Adjust the gap with a suitable gapping tool.
3. Replace the plug if the center electrode is rounded as shown above.
NOTE: Do not use spark plugs other than recommended types. These plugs are a new type (ISO
standard).
4. Screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger tight, then torque them to 18 N-m (1.8 kg-m, 13
lb-ft).
NOTE: Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads before installing.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Compression Check > System Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Check compression with engine at normal operating temperature and throttle in wide open position.
Prior to performing test, disable ignition and fuel injection to prevent fuel from being sprayed into
cylinders while cranking engine. Ensure is fully charged and that cranking speed is 250 RPM.
Standard reading should be 135-184 psi. The maximum variation between cylinders is 28 psi.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
Valve Clearance
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 0.007-0.009 inches
Exhaust ................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 0.009-0.011 inches
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Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Page 2259
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Valves should be adjusted only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F
(38°C). Adjustment is the same for intake and exhaust
valves. ^
After adjusting, Retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 Nm (134 ft. lbs.).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
2. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC. "UP" mark on the camshaft pulley should be at top, and TDC marks
should align with the cylinder head surface. The
crankshaft pulley should be at TDC.
3. Adjust valves on No. 1 cylinder.
- Intake: 0.18-0.22 mm (0.007-0.009 inch)
- Exhaust: 0.23-0.27 mm (0.009-0.011 inch)
4. Loosen the locknut, and turn the adjustment screw until the feeler gauge slides back and forth
with a slight amount of drag.
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Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Page 2260
CAUTION: Do not overtighten the locknuts; the rocker arms are made of aluminum.
5. Tighten the locknut, and check the clearance again. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
6. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). The "UP" mark should
be on the exhaust side. Adjust valves on No. 3
cylinder.
7. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No. 4 piston to TDC. Both TDC grooves
are once again visible. Adjust valves on No. 4
cylinder.
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Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Page 2261
8. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No. 2 piston to TDC. The UP" mark should
be on the intake side. Adjust valves on No. 2
cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Water Pump: Service and Repair
When refilling cooling system, bleed cooling system to let out any trapped air.
1. Drain cooling system into suitable container. 2. Remove timing belt as outlined under Timing
Belt.
3. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then the water pump. 4. Reverse procedure to install.
Tighten water pump attaching bolts to specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Coolant Capacity, Quarts:
Man. Transmission ..............................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 4.76 Auto. Transmission ...................................................
.............................................................................................................................................. 4.6
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 2270
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
Coolant/Anti-freeze Ethylene Glycol Based Coolant
Concentration Minimum 50 %
Maximum 60 %
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Locations
Right Front Of Engine Compartment
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2277
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2278
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2279
Fuse Details Schematics
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2280
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2281
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2282
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2283
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2284
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2318
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2319
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2320
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2321
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2322
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2323
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2325
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2326
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Electrical Diagrams
Fans- With A/C (Part 1 Of 2)
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2327
Fans- With A/C (Part 2 Of 2)
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2328
Fans- Without A/C
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2329
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Description and Operation
Voltage is provided at all times to the radiator fan relay (contacts) through fuse 33. With the ignition
switch in ON (II), voltage is provided to the coil of the relay through fuse 13.
The radiator fan relay can be grounded through either the engine coolant temperature switch or the
Engine Control Module (ECM).
The engine coolant temperature switch grounds the radiator fan relay (coil) when the engine
coolant temperature exceeds 199°F (93°C). The switch opens when coolant temperature
decreases 3°-8°C.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2330
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Testing and Inspection
1. Disconnect electrical connector to fan motor. 2. Connect battery voltage across motor terminals
using suitable jumper wires. 3. If fan fails to operate, motor is defective.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
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Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 2334
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Fig. 10 Cooling Fan Relay Terminal Identification
1. Disconnect electrical connector and remove relay. 2. Connect ohmmeter between relay
terminals A and B, Fig. 10. 3. Meter should indicate no continuity. 4. Connect battery voltage
across terminals C and D. 5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between
terminals A and B.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations
Water Pump
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Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 2338
Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Drain cooling system and remove cooling fan temp switch from the thermostat housing. 2.
Connect suitable ohmmeter between sensor terminals. 3. Heat thermo sensor in suitable solution
while observing ohmmeter. 4. Meter should indicate continuity when temperature reaches
190-0.03degreesF. 5. Allow sensor to cool while observing meter. Meter should indicate no
continuity as temperature drops below approximately 182-188degreesF. 6. If sensor fails to operate
as outlined, sensor is defective.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations > Photo 9
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 9
Right Side Of Engine.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations > Photo 9 >
Page 2344
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 14
Right Front Of Engine.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations > Page 2345
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
PURPOSE/DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a temperature dependant resistor (thermistor) that
convents the engine coolant temperature to voltage and outputs it to the engine control module.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations
Water Pump
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 2349
Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Drain cooling system and remove cooling fan temp switch from the thermostat housing. 2.
Connect suitable ohmmeter between sensor terminals. 3. Heat thermo sensor in suitable solution
while observing ohmmeter. 4. Meter should indicate continuity when temperature reaches
190-0.03degreesF. 5. Allow sensor to cool while observing meter. Meter should indicate no
continuity as temperature drops below approximately 182-188degreesF. 6. If sensor fails to operate
as outlined, sensor is defective.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Temperature Sensor (Gauge) > Component Information > Locations
Temperature Sensor (Gauge): Locations
Right Front Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Control Valve > Heater Control Valve
Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air
Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows
Hot Air
Heater Blows Cold Air; A/C Blows Warm Air
NOTE:
This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle
in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just
be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm.
There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm.
Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058),
and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off.
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Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air > Page
2358
Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows
Warm Air
SOURCE: Honda Service News
TITLE: Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air
APPLIES TO: all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable.
SERVICE TIP:
Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C ? The
problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real
easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut
yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on
the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Heater Core: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2363
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Heater Core: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2404
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2405
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2406
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2408
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 2412
Heater Core: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system.
3. Snap open cable clip, then disconnect heater valve cable from heater valve.
4. Disconnect heater hoses at heater, then remove heater unit mounting nut from engine
compartment side. 5. Remove instrument panel. 6. Remove heat duct or evaporator and steering
column bracket.
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Diagrams > Page 2413
7. Remove clip, heater mounting nuts and heater assembly.
Fig. 16 Heater Core Removal
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8. Remove heater core cover attaching screws, then the cover, Fig. 16. 9. Remove pipe clamp and
damper arm attaching screws.
10. Pull heater core from heater housing. Ensure care is taken not to bend inlet and outlet pipes
during removal. 11. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Do not interchange inlet and outlet hoses. b. Connect all cables and ensure they are properly
adjusted.
12. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures.
On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system
disarming and arming procedures.
13. After refilling cooling system, bleed cooling system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Description and Operation
Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation
When the ignition switch is in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 15 to
the gauges in the gauge assembly.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge has two intersecting coils wound around a
permanent magnet rotor. Voltage applied to the coils, through fuse 15, generates a magnetic field.
The magnetic field, controlled by the coolant temperature sending unit, causes the rotor to rotate
and the gauge needle to move. As the resistance in the sending unit varies, current through the
gauge coils changes. The gauge needle moves toward the coil with the strongest magnetic field.
The fuel gauge works the same way.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sending unit's resistance varies from about 137 ohms at low
engine temperature to between 30-46 ohms at high temperature (radiator fan running).
The fuel gauge sending unit's resistance varies from about 2-5 ohms at full, to about 110 ohms at
empty. When you turn the ignition switch OFF, the gauge remains at the last reading until you turn
the ignition switch to ON (II) or START (III) again.
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Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 2419
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection
1. Check No. 15 (10A) fuse in under dash fuse/relay box before testing.
Fig. 1 Engine Coolant Temperature Unit
2. Ensure ignition switch is in Off position, then disconnect yellow/green wire from coolant
temperature sending unit, Fig. 1, and ground it with a
jumper wire.
3. Turn ignition switch to On position. 4. Check as needle of coolant temperature gauge starts
moving toward H mark. Turn ignition switch to Off position before pointer reaches H
mark on gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage gauge.
5. If pointer of gauge does not move, check the following:
a. Blown fuse in under dash fuse/relay box. b. Open in yellow/green wire, yellow or red wire. c. If
fuse and wiring are satisfactory, replace coolant temperature gauge.
6. If gauge is satisfactory, inspect sending unit.
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Service and Repair
Radiator: Service and Repair
Fig. 73 Exploded View Of Radiator Assembly
1. Drain engine coolant, then radiator hoses and ATF cooler hoses, Fig. 73. 2. Disconnect fan
motor electrical connections, then remove radiator upper brackets. 3. Pull up and remove radiator,
then remove fan shroud assemblies and other parts as necessary. 4. Reverse procedure to install.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cap > Component Information >
Specifications
Radiator Cap: Specifications
Radiator Cap Pressure Relief ..............................................................................................................
.................................................................... 14-18 psi
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
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Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 2430
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Fig. 10 Cooling Fan Relay Terminal Identification
1. Disconnect electrical connector and remove relay. 2. Connect ohmmeter between relay
terminals A and B, Fig. 10. 3. Meter should indicate no continuity. 4. Connect battery voltage
across terminals C and D. 5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between
terminals A and B.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations > Photo 9
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 9
Right Side Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations > Photo 9 > Page 2437
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 14
Right Front Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations > Page 2438
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
PURPOSE/DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a temperature dependant resistor (thermistor) that
convents the engine coolant temperature to voltage and outputs it to the engine control module.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component
Information > Locations
Water Pump
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 2442
Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Drain cooling system and remove cooling fan temp switch from the thermostat housing. 2.
Connect suitable ohmmeter between sensor terminals. 3. Heat thermo sensor in suitable solution
while observing ohmmeter. 4. Meter should indicate continuity when temperature reaches
190-0.03degreesF. 5. Allow sensor to cool while observing meter. Meter should indicate no
continuity as temperature drops below approximately 182-188degreesF. 6. If sensor fails to operate
as outlined, sensor is defective.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Temperature Sensor (Gauge) > Component Information > Locations
Temperature Sensor (Gauge): Locations
Right Front Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation
When the ignition switch is in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 15 to
the gauges in the gauge assembly.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge has two intersecting coils wound around a
permanent magnet rotor. Voltage applied to the coils, through fuse 15, generates a magnetic field.
The magnetic field, controlled by the coolant temperature sending unit, causes the rotor to rotate
and the gauge needle to move. As the resistance in the sending unit varies, current through the
gauge coils changes. The gauge needle moves toward the coil with the strongest magnetic field.
The fuel gauge works the same way.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sending unit's resistance varies from about 137 ohms at low
engine temperature to between 30-46 ohms at high temperature (radiator fan running).
The fuel gauge sending unit's resistance varies from about 2-5 ohms at full, to about 110 ohms at
empty. When you turn the ignition switch OFF, the gauge remains at the last reading until you turn
the ignition switch to ON (II) or START (III) again.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 2449
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection
1. Check No. 15 (10A) fuse in under dash fuse/relay box before testing.
Fig. 1 Engine Coolant Temperature Unit
2. Ensure ignition switch is in Off position, then disconnect yellow/green wire from coolant
temperature sending unit, Fig. 1, and ground it with a
jumper wire.
3. Turn ignition switch to On position. 4. Check as needle of coolant temperature gauge starts
moving toward H mark. Turn ignition switch to Off position before pointer reaches H
mark on gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage gauge.
5. If pointer of gauge does not move, check the following:
a. Blown fuse in under dash fuse/relay box. b. Open in yellow/green wire, yellow or red wire. c. If
fuse and wiring are satisfactory, replace coolant temperature gauge.
6. If gauge is satisfactory, inspect sending unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling > Component
Information > Specifications
Thermostat: Specifications
Thermostat Opening Temperature ......................................................................................................
.......................................................................... 172°F
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2453
Thermostat: Service and Repair
Fig. 67 Thermostat Replacement
Refer to Fig. 67, for thermostat replacement.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Water Pump: Service and Repair
When refilling cooling system, bleed cooling system to let out any trapped air.
1. Drain cooling system into suitable container. 2. Remove timing belt as outlined under Timing
Belt.
3. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then the water pump. 4. Reverse procedure to install.
Tighten water pump attaching bolts to specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter <-->
[Catalytic Converter] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter Noise
Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust System - Catalytic
Converter Noise
SOURCE: Honda Service News
TITLE: Catalytic Converter Noise? Check the Heat Shield
APPLIES TO: All models
SERVICE TIP:
Got a vehicle in your shop that buzzes or rattles, and you suspect the catalytic converter is the
culprit? Before you start replacing the converter, first check the heat shield area. If there any stones
or debris trapped inside, they can cause buzzing or rattling.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter <-->
[Catalytic Converter] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2462
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter <-->
[Catalytic Converter] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2463
Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) is used to convert Hydrocarbons (HC), Carbon
Monoxide (CO), and Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust gas, to Carbon Dioxide (CO2),
Dinitrogen (N2) and water vapor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter <-->
[Catalytic Converter] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2464
Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
If excessive exhaust system back-pressure is suspected, remove the TWC from the car and make
a visual check for plugging, melting or cracking of the Catalyst. Replace the TWC if any of the
visible area is damaged or plugged.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Body Control Module: Locations
Rear Of Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2473
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2474
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2475
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2476
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2477
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2478
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2479
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2480
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2481
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2482
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2483
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2484
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2485
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2486
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2487
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2488
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2489
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2490
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2491
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2492
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2493
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2494
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2495
Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
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Bulletins > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport
OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors
(Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.*
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E
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DTC P0A94 thru P0157
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DTC P0158 thru P0400
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DTC P0401 thru P0562
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DTC P0563 thru P0748
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DTC P0750 thru P0977
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Bulletins > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 2531
DTC P0979 thru P1193
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Bulletins > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 2532
DTC P1253 thru P1459
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Bulletins > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 2533
DTC P1486 thru P1585
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Bulletins > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 2534
DTC P1586 thru P1678
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DTC P1679 thru P1860
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DTC P1861 thru P2238
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Bulletins > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 2537
DTC P2240 thru U0073
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DTC U0100 thru U1288
Disclaimer
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Bulletins > Page 2539
Engine Control Module: Locations
Right Kick Panel
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Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 2545
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 2567
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The engine control module takes the inputs from the various sensors and signals to manage the
fuel injection, timing control and ignition.
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Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
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NOTE: When there is no code stored, the MIL will stay on if the service check connector is jumped.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Locations
The PGM-FI relay is located under the left side of the dash.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The PGM-FI main relay actually contains two individual relays. The relay is located at the left side
of the cowl. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, which supplies the battery voltage
to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is
energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running, to
supply power to the fuel pump.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Main Relay And Harness Inspection
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Programed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) Main Relay actually contains two individual Relays. This
Relay is located at the left side of the Cowl. One Relay is energized whenever the Ignition is "ON"
which supplies the Battery voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM), power to the Fuel
Injectors, and power for the second Relay. The second Relay is energized for two seconds when
the Ignition is switched "ON", and when the Engine is running, to supply power to the Fuel Pump.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay.
- If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay.
- If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay.
- If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
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FLOWCHART PART 1
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FLOWCHART PART 2
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Locations
The PGM-FI relay is located under the left side of the dash.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The PGM-FI main relay actually contains two individual relays. The relay is located at the left side
of the cowl. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, which supplies the battery voltage
to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is
energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running, to
supply power to the fuel pump.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Main Relay And Harness Inspection
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Ignition Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Ignition Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Ignition Control Module: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Ignition Control Module: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Perform an input test for the ignition control module (ICM) after finishing the fundamental
tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions systems. The tachometer should operate
normally.
1. Remove the distributor ignition cap, the distributor ignition rotor, and the leak cover.
2. Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground.
There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.
^ If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground.
There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check: Ignition coil.
- WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the ICM.
^ If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
5. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
6. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM.
7. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.
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Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Removal
1. Disconnect the 2-P and 8-P connectors from the distributor.
2. Disconnect the ignition wires from the distributor ignition cap.
3. Remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder bead.
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2833
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil, then install it.
2. Slip the distributor into position.
NOTE: The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both
offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.
3. Install the mounting bolts and tighten them temporarily. 4. Connect the 2-P and 8-P connectors
to the distributor.
5. Connect the ignition wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light. 7. After setting the
timing, tighten the mounting bolts.
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2834
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Overhaul
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2835
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2836
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Reassembly
Reassemble the distributor in the reverse order of disassembly.
1. Install the distributor ignition rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (Toward the
No. 1 cylinder).
2. Slip the thrust washer and coupling onto the shaft.
3. Check that the distributor ignition rotor is still pointing toward the No. 1 cylinder, then align the
index mark on the distributor ignition housing
with the index mark on the coupling.
4. Drive in the pin and secure it with the pin retainer.
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Information and Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Information and Instructions > Page 2845
Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Information and Instructions > Page 2847
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 2849
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 2850
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
Converts barometric pressure to a voltage signal for the engine control module.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The CKP Sensor determines timing for Fuel Injection and ignition of each Cylinder and also detects
Engine speed. The TDC Sensor determines Ignition Timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank
angle is abnormal. The CYP Sensor detects the position of No. 1 Cylinder for sequential fuel
injection to each Cylinder.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations > Photo 9
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 9
Right Side Of Engine.
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 14
Right Front Of Engine.
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Information > Locations > Page 2905
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
PURPOSE/DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a temperature dependant resistor (thermistor) that
convents the engine coolant temperature to voltage and outputs it to the engine control module.
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Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 2913
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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2959
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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2960
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
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Electric Load Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Electrical Load Detector informs the engine control module of the high electrical draw
conditions.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations
Middle Of Engine
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Page 2967
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations >
Page 2968
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The MAP Sensor converts Manifold Absolute Pressure (vacuum) into electrical signals and inputs
the Engine Control Module (ECM).
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information >
Locations > Photo 4
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Locations Photo 4
Right Front Of Engine
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Locations > Photo 4 > Page 2973
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Locations Photo 5
Right Front Of Engine
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2976
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2978
Fuse Details Schematics
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2979
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2980
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2982
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2983
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2986
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2990
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2996
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Heated Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3021
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3022
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3023
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Diagrams > Page 3025
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
The Oxygen Sensor is mounted to the Exhaust Manifold or pipe with the sensor end extending into
the exhaust stream. It uses zirconia and platinum to compare exhaust oxygen content with that of
the outside air. When heated by the combination of its internal heater and exhaust gases, the
sensor supplies a low voltage signal (0.0 - 1.0 volt) to the ECM. When the engine is running rich,
the oxygen differential is relatively high so signal voltage increases. When a lean condition occurs
the difference in oxygen content is much lower causing a lower voltage signal to be produced.
Oxygen sensor operation is monitored by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and a malfunction
should be accompanied by a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). Circuit and output testing procedures
are covered in detail in the Diagnostic Trouble Code Charts. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
Oxygen Sensor malfunctions will cause increased emission output and smog check failure. Other
symptoms may include poor idle quality or poor fuel economy.
HINT: When monitoring oxygen sensor operation with an oscilloscope, watch for a sine wave with a
frequency of at least 8 cycles in 10 seconds. A "lazy" oxygen sensor will not always set a code, but
will usually cause abnormal emissions levels.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Page 3029
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Page 3030
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Power Steering load is high.
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Page 3031
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Information and Instructions > Page 3036
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Information and Instructions > Page 3037
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3038
Fuse Details Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 3039
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Information and Instructions > Page 3040
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Information and Instructions > Page 3041
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 3042
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 3043
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The TP Sensor is a Potentiometer. It is connected to the Throttle Valve Shaft. As the Throttle
Position changes, the Throttle Position Sensor varies the voltage signal to the Engine Control
Module (ECM).
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] >
Component Information > Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3093
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
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Component Information > Locations > Page 3094
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
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Component Information > Locations > Page 3095
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Locations
Right Rear Of Engine Compartment
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 3110
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied from fuse 24 (fuse 12
without SRS) through the BLK/YEL wire to the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). The sensor is
grounded by the BLK wire to G101. The speedometer and other control units in the circuit supply
about 5 volts to the YEL/WHT wire. The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) intermittently grounds the
YEL/WHT wire which generates a pulsed signal in it. The number of pulse per minute
increases/decreases with the speed of the car.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 17: A problem in
the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) circuit.
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Information and Instructions > Page 3263
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The TP Sensor is a Potentiometer. It is connected to the Throttle Valve Shaft. As the Throttle
Position changes, the Throttle Position Sensor varies the voltage signal to the Engine Control
Module (ECM).
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The CKP Sensor determines timing for Fuel Injection and ignition of each Cylinder and also detects
Engine speed. The TDC Sensor determines Ignition Timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank
angle is abnormal. The CYP Sensor detects the position of No. 1 Cylinder for sequential fuel
injection to each Cylinder.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Instructions > Page 3279
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 3286
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3328
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3329
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
MAR 10, 1997
Applies To: ALL Models
New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts > Page 3340
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
Replacement washers come in a set of five (T/N 07406-0040300).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3341
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
At Curb Idle
With Vacuum Hose Connected
.......................................................................................................................................................
215-265 kPa (31-38 psi) With Vacuum Hose Disconnected
...................................................................................................................................................
280-330 kPa (40-47 psi)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3342
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
1. Relieve fuel pressure. 2. Remove the service bolt on the fuel filter while holding the banjo bolt
with another wrench. Attach the special tool. 3. Start the engine *. Measure the fuel pressure with
the engine idling and vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel
pressure regulator and pinched.
Pressure should be: 280-330 kPa (2.8-3.3 kg/cm2, 40-47 psi)
4. Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
Pressure should be: 215-265 kPa (2.15-2.65 kg/cm2, 31-38 psi)
^ If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch on, wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back
on again and read the fuel pressure.
^ If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the fuel is OK, check the
following:
^ If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, inspect for: Pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
^ If the fuel pressure is lower than specified, inspect for: Clogged fuel filter.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator. Leakage in the fuel hoses or pipes.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air/Fuel Mixture >
System Information > Adjustments
Air/Fuel Mixture: Adjustments
The Air/Fuel mixture is controlled by the engine control module and is not adjustable.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
IDLE SPEED
Manual transmission ............................................................................................................................
................................................. 670 RPM [01] Automatic transmission ..............................................
........................................................................................................................... 670 RPM [01]
[01] -- Transmission in Neutral or Park, headlights and cooling fan OFF.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications > Page 3349
Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection
1. Start the engine and allow it to warm-up (the radiator fan comes on).
2. Connect a tachometer to the test tachometer connector.
NOTE: All electrical systems should be turned OFF.
IDLE SPEED:
(M/T) in neutral:
(USA): 670 ± 50 rpm (Canada): 750 ± 50 rpm
(A/T) in [N] or [P]:
(USA): 700 ± 50 rpm (Canada): 750 ± 50 rpm
3. Adjust the idle speed, if necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications > Page 3350
Idle Speed: Adjustments
NOTE: ^
When the idle speed set, check the following items: The MIL has not been reported on.
- Ignition timing
- Spark plugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
^ (Canada) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights are off.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (A/T in [N] or [P] position, M/T in
neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it
idle.
2. Connect a tachometer.
3. Disconnect the 2P connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. 4. Start the engine with the
accelerator pedal slightly depressed. Stabilize the rpm at 1,000, then slowly release the pedal until
the engine idles.
5. Check idling in no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, rear defogger, radiator fan, and air
conditioning are not operating.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 420 +/- 50 rpm Others: 420 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 420 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
Adjust the idle speed, if necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw.
NOTE: After adjusting the idle speed in this step, check the ignition timing. If it is out of spec, go
back to step 4.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
7. Reconnect the 2P connector on the IAC valve, then remove BACK UP (7.5 A) fuse in the
under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the
ECM.
8. Restart and idle the engine with no-load conditions for one minute, then check the idle speed.
NOTE: (Canada) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights
are off.
Idle speed should be:
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications > Page 3351
M/T D15Z1 engine: 600 +/- 50 rpm Others: 670 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 700 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
9. Idle the engine for one minute with headlights (Low) ON and check the idle speed.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 700 +/- 50 rpm Others: 750 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 750 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
10. Turn the headlights off.
Idle the engine for one minute with heater fan switch at HI and air conditioner on, then check the
idle speed.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 810 +/- 50 rpm Others: 810 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 810 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, see System Troubleshooting Guide.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing >
Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the Fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from your work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the Ignition Switch is off.
NOTE: Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the 6 mm
service bolt on top of the fuel filter.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove the fuel fill
cap. 3. Use a box end wrench on the 6 mm service bolt at the fuel filter, while holding the special
banjo bolt with another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6 mm service bolt. 5. Slowly loosen the 6 mm service bolt one
complete turn.
NOTE: A fuel pressure gauge can be attached at the 6 mm service bolt hole.
- Always replace the washer between the service bolt and the special banjo bolt whenever the
service bolt is loosened.
- Replace all washers whenever the bolts are removed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order >
Component Information > Specifications
Firing Order: Specifications
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
System Check Connector <--> [Ignition Timing Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
System Check Connector: Component Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
System Check Connector <--> [Ignition Timing Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations >
Page 3367
System Check Connector: Connector Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations
Number One Cylinder: Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Specifications
Ignition Cable: Specifications
Resistance at 20°C (68°F) ...................................................................................................................
......................................................... 25 K Ohms max
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Ignition Cable: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3379
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3380
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3381
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3382
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3383
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3384
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3385
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3386
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3387
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3388
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3389
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3390
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3391
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3392
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3393
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3394
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3395
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3396
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3397
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3398
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3399
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3400
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3401
Ignition Cable: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3424
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3425
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3426
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3427
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3428
Ignition Cable: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: Carefully remove the ignition wires by pulling on the rubber boots. Do not bend the
wires; you might break them inside.
1. Check the condition of the wire terminals. If any terminal is corroded, clean it, and if it is broken
or distorted, replace the wire.
2. Connect ohmmeter probes and measure resistance.
Resistance: 25 k Ohms max. at 70° F (20°C)
3. If resistance exceeds 25 k Ohms, replace the ignition wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Distributor Cap > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Distributor Cap: Testing and Inspection
Check the following points, repair or replace as needed if a problem is found.
1. There must be no cracking in the cap. 2. There must be no damage to the cap's electrodes. 3.
Clean away any accumulated dirt from the cap.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Ignition Rotor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Ignition Rotor: Testing and Inspection
Check the following points, repair or replace as needed if a problem is found.
1. There must be no cracking in the rotor. 2. There must be no damage to the rotor's electrode. 3.
Clean away any accumulated dirt from the rotor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Gap and Torque
Spark Plug: Specifications Gap and Torque
Spark Plug Gap ...................................................................................................................................
........................................................ 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
Spark Plug Torque ...............................................................................................................................
......................................................... 18 Nm (13 ft lb)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Gap and Torque > Page 3440
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 3441
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Spark Plug Inspection
1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator for:
Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: ^
Advanced ignition timing
^ Loose spark plug
^ Plug heat range too low
^ Insufficient cooling
Fouled plug may be caused by: ^
Retarded ignition timing
^ Oil in combustion chamber
^ Incorrect spark plug gap
^ Plug heat range too high
^ Excessive idling/low speed running
^ Clogged air cleaner element
^ Deteriorated ignition coil or ignition wires
2. Adjust the gap with a suitable gapping tool.
3. Replace the plug if the center electrode is rounded as shown above.
NOTE: Do not use spark plugs other than recommended types. These plugs are a new type (ISO
standard).
4. Screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger tight, then torque them to 18 N-m (1.8 kg-m, 13
lb-ft).
NOTE: Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads before installing.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check >
System Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Check compression with engine at normal operating temperature and throttle in wide open position.
Prior to performing test, disable ignition and fuel injection to prevent fuel from being sprayed into
cylinders while cranking engine. Ensure is fully charged and that cranking speed is 250 RPM.
Standard reading should be 135-184 psi. The maximum variation between cylinders is 28 psi.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
Valve Clearance
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 0.007-0.009 inches
Exhaust ................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 0.009-0.011 inches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3448
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Valves should be adjusted only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F
(38°C). Adjustment is the same for intake and exhaust
valves. ^
After adjusting, Retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 Nm (134 ft. lbs.).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
2. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC. "UP" mark on the camshaft pulley should be at top, and TDC marks
should align with the cylinder head surface. The
crankshaft pulley should be at TDC.
3. Adjust valves on No. 1 cylinder.
- Intake: 0.18-0.22 mm (0.007-0.009 inch)
- Exhaust: 0.23-0.27 mm (0.009-0.011 inch)
4. Loosen the locknut, and turn the adjustment screw until the feeler gauge slides back and forth
with a slight amount of drag.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3449
CAUTION: Do not overtighten the locknuts; the rocker arms are made of aluminum.
5. Tighten the locknut, and check the clearance again. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
6. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). The "UP" mark should
be on the exhaust side. Adjust valves on No. 3
cylinder.
7. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No. 4 piston to TDC. Both TDC grooves
are once again visible. Adjust valves on No. 4
cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3450
8. Rotate the crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No. 2 piston to TDC. The UP" mark should
be on the intake side. Adjust valves on No. 2
cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/C Signal > Component
Information > Description and Operation
A/C Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the ECM when there is a demand for cooling from the air conditioning system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/C Signal > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 3455
A/C Signal: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/C Signal > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 3456
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3461
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3462
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3463
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3464
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3465
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3466
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3467
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3468
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3469
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3470
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3471
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3472
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3473
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3474
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3475
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3476
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3477
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3478
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3479
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3480
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3481
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3482
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed)
> Component Information > Description and Operation
Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed): Description and Operation
To prevent erratic running when the engine is warming up, it is necessary to raise the idle speed.
The fast idle thermo valve is controlled by a thermowax plunger. When the engine is cold, the
engine coolant surrounding the thermowax contracts the plunger, allowing additional air to be
bypassed into the intake manifold so that the engine idles faster. When the engine reaches
operating temperature, the valve closes, reducing the amount of air bypassing into the manifold.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed)
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3513
Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed): Testing and Inspection
NOTE: The fast idle thermo valve is factory adjusted; it should not be disassembled.
1. Remove the intake air duct from the throttle body. 2. Start the engine.
3. Put your finger over the lower port in throttle body and make sure that there is air flow with the
engine cold (engine coolant temperature below 86°
F, (30°C)). ^
If not, replace the fast idle thermo valve and retest.
4. Warm up the engine (the radiator fan comes on). 5. Check that the valve is completely closed. If
not, air suction can be felt at the lower port in the throttle body.
^ If any suction is felt, the valve is leaking. Check engine coolant level and for air in the engine
coolant system. If OK, replace the fast idle thermo valve and recheck.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
Converts barometric pressure to a voltage signal for the engine control module.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Body Control Module: Locations
Rear Of Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3525
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3526
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3527
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3528
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3529
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3531
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3532
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3533
Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3536
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3538
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3570
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Brake Switch Signal <--> [Brake
Signal] > Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Switch Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Brake Pedal is depressed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Brake Switch Signal <--> [Brake
Signal] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3574
Brake Switch Signal: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The CKP Sensor determines timing for Fuel Injection and ignition of each Cylinder and also detects
Engine speed. The TDC Sensor determines Ignition Timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank
angle is abnormal. The CYP Sensor detects the position of No. 1 Cylinder for sequential fuel
injection to each Cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3578
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3579
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations > Photo 9
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 9
Right Side Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations > Photo 9 > Page 3584
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 14
Right Front Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3585
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
PURPOSE/DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a temperature dependant resistor (thermistor) that
convents the engine coolant temperature to voltage and outputs it to the engine control module.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Starter Switch Signal <-->
[Cranking Signal] > Component Information > Description and Operation
Starter Switch Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Engine is cranking.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Starter Switch Signal <-->
[Cranking Signal] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3589
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3594
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3595
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3596
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3597
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3598
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3599
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3600
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3601
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3602
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3603
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3604
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3605
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3606
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3607
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3608
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3609
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3610
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3611
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3612
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3613
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3614
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3615
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3616
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3617
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3618
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3619
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3620
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3621
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3622
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3643
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3644
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Photo View
Data Link Connector: Locations Photo View
Right Kick Panel
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Photo View > Page 3649
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Data Link Connector: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3652
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3653
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3654
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3655
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3656
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3657
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3658
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3659
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3660
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3661
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3662
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3663
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3664
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3665
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3666
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3667
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3668
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3669
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3670
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3671
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3672
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3673
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3674
Data Link Connector: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3675
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3677
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3678
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3679
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3680
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3681
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3682
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3683
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3684
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3685
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3686
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3687
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Electric Load Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Electrical Load Detector informs the engine control module of the high electrical draw
conditions.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport
OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors
(Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.*
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E
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DTC P0A94 thru P0157
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DTC P0158 thru P0400
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DTC P0401 thru P0562
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DTC P0563 thru P0748
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DTC P0750 thru P0977
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DTC P0979 thru P1193
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DTC P1253 thru P1459
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DTC P1486 thru P1585
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DTC P1586 thru P1678
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DTC P1679 thru P1860
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DTC P1861 thru P2238
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DTC P2240 thru U0073
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DTC U0100 thru U1288
Disclaimer
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3721
Engine Control Module: Locations
Right Kick Panel
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Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The engine control module takes the inputs from the various sensors and signals to manage the
fuel injection, timing control and ignition.
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Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
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NOTE: When there is no code stored, the MIL will stay on if the service check connector is jumped.
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The IAC Valve changes the amount of air bypassing the Throttle Body in response to a current
signal from the Engine Control Module (ECM) in order to maintain the proper idle speed.
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 14: A problem in
the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve circuit.
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Component Information > Description and Operation
Ignition Output Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Ignition Output Signal informs the engine control module of ignition system operation.
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Ignition Output Signal: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 15: A problem in
the Ignition Output Signal circuit.
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Information Bus: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Information Bus: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Locations
The PGM-FI relay is located under the left side of the dash.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The PGM-FI main relay actually contains two individual relays. The relay is located at the left side
of the cowl. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, which supplies the battery voltage
to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is
energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running, to
supply power to the fuel pump.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Main Relay And Harness Inspection
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Locations
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Component Information > Locations > Page 3956
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection
When the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) has been reported on, do the following:
1. Connect the Service Check Connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown. (The 2P Service
Check Connector is located under the dash on
the passenger side of the car.) Turn the ignition switch on.
2. Note the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC): The MIL indicates a code by the length and number of
blinks. The MIL can indicate simultaneous
component problems by blinking separate codes, one after another. Codes I through 9 are
indicated by individual short blinks. Codes 10 through 48 are indicated by a series of long and short
blinks. The number of long blinks equals the first digit, the number of
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations
Middle Of Engine
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Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3960
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3961
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The MAP Sensor converts Manifold Absolute Pressure (vacuum) into electrical signals and inputs
the Engine Control Module (ECM).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <-->
[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Locations > Photo 4
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Locations Photo 4
Right Front Of Engine
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Heated Oxygen Sensor: Locations Photo 5
Right Front Of Engine
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[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3972
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3973
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3981
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3990
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Heated Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <-->
[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4015
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4017
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <-->
[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4018
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
The Oxygen Sensor is mounted to the Exhaust Manifold or pipe with the sensor end extending into
the exhaust stream. It uses zirconia and platinum to compare exhaust oxygen content with that of
the outside air. When heated by the combination of its internal heater and exhaust gases, the
sensor supplies a low voltage signal (0.0 - 1.0 volt) to the ECM. When the engine is running rich,
the oxygen differential is relatively high so signal voltage increases. When a lean condition occurs
the difference in oxygen content is much lower causing a lower voltage signal to be produced.
Oxygen sensor operation is monitored by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and a malfunction
should be accompanied by a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). Circuit and output testing procedures
are covered in detail in the Diagnostic Trouble Code Charts. See: Testing and Inspection
Oxygen Sensor malfunctions will cause increased emission output and smog check failure. Other
symptoms may include poor idle quality or poor fuel economy.
HINT: When monitoring oxygen sensor operation with an oscilloscope, watch for a sine wave with a
frequency of at least 8 cycles in 10 seconds. A "lazy" oxygen sensor will not always set a code, but
will usually cause abnormal emissions levels.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch
> Component Information > Locations
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 4022
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 4023
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Power Steering load is high.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 4024
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Body Control Module: Locations
Rear Of Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box
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Instructions
Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Instructions > Page 4031
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Instructions > Page 4032
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4033
Fuse Details Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4034
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4035
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Instructions > Page 4036
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4037
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4038
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4039
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4040
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4041
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4042
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4043
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4044
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4045
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Instructions > Page 4046
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Instructions > Page 4052
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4053
Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Instructions > Page 4056
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Instructions > Page 4079
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport
OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors
(Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.*
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E
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Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4084
DTC P0A94 thru P0157
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Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4085
DTC P0158 thru P0400
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Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4086
DTC P0401 thru P0562
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Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4087
DTC P0563 thru P0748
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Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4088
DTC P0750 thru P0977
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4089
DTC P0979 thru P1193
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4090
DTC P1253 thru P1459
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4091
DTC P1486 thru P1585
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4092
DTC P1586 thru P1678
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4093
DTC P1679 thru P1860
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4094
DTC P1861 thru P2238
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4095
DTC P2240 thru U0073
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors > Page 4096
DTC U0100 thru U1288
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
4097
Engine Control Module: Locations
Right Kick Panel
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and Instructions
Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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and Instructions > Page 4100
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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and Instructions > Page 4101
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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and Instructions > Page 4102
Fuse Details Schematics
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and Instructions > Page 4103
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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and Instructions > Page 4104
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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and Instructions > Page 4105
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 4106
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 4107
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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and Instructions > Page 4108
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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and Instructions > Page 4109
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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and Instructions > Page 4110
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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and Instructions > Page 4111
Symbol Identification
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and Instructions > Page 4112
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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and Instructions > Page 4113
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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and Instructions > Page 4114
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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and Instructions > Page 4115
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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and Instructions > Page 4116
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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and Instructions > Page 4117
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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and Instructions > Page 4118
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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and Instructions > Page 4120
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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and Instructions > Page 4121
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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and Instructions > Page 4122
Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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and Instructions > Page 4123
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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and Instructions > Page 4125
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The engine control module takes the inputs from the various sensors and signals to manage the
fuel injection, timing control and ignition.
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Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
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NOTE: When there is no code stored, the MIL will stay on if the service check connector is jumped.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Locations
The PGM-FI relay is located under the left side of the dash.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4209
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information
> Diagrams > Page 4210
PGM-FI Main Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The PGM-FI main relay actually contains two individual relays. The relay is located at the left side
of the cowl. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, which supplies the battery voltage
to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is
energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running, to
supply power to the fuel pump.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information
> Diagrams > Page 4211
PGM-FI Main Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Main Relay And Harness Inspection
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> Diagrams > Page 4212
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information
> Diagrams > Page 4213
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4219
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Instructions > Page 4220
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Instructions > Page 4221
Fuse Details Schematics
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Instructions > Page 4222
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4223
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4224
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4225
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4226
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4227
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Instructions > Page 4228
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4229
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Instructions > Page 4230
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4231
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4232
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4233
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Instructions > Page 4234
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Instructions > Page 4237
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4240
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4241
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4245
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Instructions > Page 4250
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Instructions > Page 4251
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Instructions > Page 4255
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
Converts barometric pressure to a voltage signal for the engine control module.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The CKP Sensor determines timing for Fuel Injection and ignition of each Cylinder and also detects
Engine speed. The TDC Sensor determines Ignition Timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank
angle is abnormal. The CYP Sensor detects the position of No. 1 Cylinder for sequential fuel
injection to each Cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Page 4274
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Page 4275
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Locations > Photo 9
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 9
Right Side Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Locations > Photo 9 > Page 4280
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations Photo 14
Right Front Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Locations > Page 4281
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
PURPOSE/DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a temperature dependant resistor (thermistor) that
convents the engine coolant temperature to voltage and outputs it to the engine control module.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4286
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Information and Instructions > Page 4287
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4288
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4289
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4290
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4291
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4292
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4293
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Information and Instructions > Page 4294
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4295
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4296
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4297
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4298
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4299
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4300
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4301
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4302
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Information and Instructions > Page 4303
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Information and Instructions > Page 4304
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4305
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4306
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4307
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4308
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Information and Instructions > Page 4309
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4310
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4311
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4312
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Information and Instructions > Page 4313
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4314
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Information and Instructions > Page 4315
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Information and Instructions > Page 4316
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
Electric Load Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Electrical Load Detector informs the engine control module of the high electrical draw
conditions.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations
Middle Of Engine
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Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The MAP Sensor converts Manifold Absolute Pressure (vacuum) into electrical signals and inputs
the Engine Control Module (ECM).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Locations >
Photo 4
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Locations Photo 4
Right Front Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Locations >
Photo 4 > Page 4349
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Locations Photo 5
Right Front Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4352
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4353
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4354
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4355
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4356
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4357
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4358
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4359
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4360
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4361
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4362
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4363
Symbol Identification
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4364
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4365
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4366
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4367
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4368
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4369
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4370
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4371
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4372
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4373
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4374
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4375
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4376
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4377
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <--> [Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4378
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4379
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4380
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4381
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4382
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4383
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4384
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4385
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4386
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4387
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4388
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4389
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4391
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4394
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4395
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Page 4401
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
The Oxygen Sensor is mounted to the Exhaust Manifold or pipe with the sensor end extending into
the exhaust stream. It uses zirconia and platinum to compare exhaust oxygen content with that of
the outside air. When heated by the combination of its internal heater and exhaust gases, the
sensor supplies a low voltage signal (0.0 - 1.0 volt) to the ECM. When the engine is running rich,
the oxygen differential is relatively high so signal voltage increases. When a lean condition occurs
the difference in oxygen content is much lower causing a lower voltage signal to be produced.
Oxygen sensor operation is monitored by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and a malfunction
should be accompanied by a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). Circuit and output testing procedures
are covered in detail in the Diagnostic Trouble Code Charts. See: Testing and Inspection
Oxygen Sensor malfunctions will cause increased emission output and smog check failure. Other
symptoms may include poor idle quality or poor fuel economy.
HINT: When monitoring oxygen sensor operation with an oscilloscope, watch for a sine wave with a
frequency of at least 8 cycles in 10 seconds. A "lazy" oxygen sensor will not always set a code, but
will usually cause abnormal emissions levels.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Power Steering Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Power Steering load is high.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions
Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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and Instructions > Page 4412
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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and Instructions > Page 4413
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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and Instructions > Page 4414
Fuse Details Schematics
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and Instructions > Page 4415
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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and Instructions > Page 4416
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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and Instructions > Page 4417
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 4418
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 4419
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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and Instructions > Page 4420
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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and Instructions > Page 4421
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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and Instructions > Page 4422
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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and Instructions > Page 4423
Symbol Identification
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and Instructions > Page 4424
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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and Instructions > Page 4425
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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and Instructions > Page 4426
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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and Instructions > Page 4428
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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and Instructions > Page 4432
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 4433
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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and Instructions > Page 4434
Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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and Instructions > Page 4437
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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and Instructions > Page 4438
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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and Instructions > Page 4439
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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and Instructions > Page 4440
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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and Instructions > Page 4444
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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and Instructions > Page 4446
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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and Instructions > Page 4449
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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and Instructions > Page 4450
Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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and Instructions > Page 4455
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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and Instructions > Page 4456
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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and Instructions > Page 4459
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The TP Sensor is a Potentiometer. It is connected to the Throttle Valve Shaft. As the Throttle
Position changes, the Throttle Position Sensor varies the voltage signal to the Engine Control
Module (ECM).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component
Information > Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
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Information > Locations > Page 4469
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
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Information > Locations > Page 4470
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
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Information > Locations > Page 4471
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Locations
Right Rear Of Engine Compartment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4480
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4481
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4482
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4483
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4484
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4485
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4486
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4487
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4488
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4489
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4490
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4491
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4492
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4493
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4494
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4495
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4496
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Instructions > Page 4497
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Instructions > Page 4498
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Instructions > Page 4499
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4500
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4501
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4502
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Instructions > Page 4503
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Instructions > Page 4504
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4505
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4506
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4507
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4508
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4509
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4510
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4511
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4512
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4513
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4514
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4515
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4516
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Instructions > Page 4517
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied from fuse 24 (fuse 12
without SRS) through the BLK/YEL wire to the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). The sensor is
grounded by the BLK wire to G101. The speedometer and other control units in the circuit supply
about 5 volts to the YEL/WHT wire. The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) intermittently grounds the
YEL/WHT wire which generates a pulsed signal in it. The number of pulse per minute
increases/decreases with the speed of the car.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 17: A problem in
the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4537
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4538
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4540
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4541
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4543
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4544
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4548
Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4549
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4550
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4551
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4568
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4570
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4573
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The TP Sensor is a Potentiometer. It is connected to the Throttle Valve Shaft. As the Throttle
Position changes, the Throttle Position Sensor varies the voltage signal to the Engine Control
Module (ECM).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/T Gear Position Signal <-->
[Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
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[Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 4594
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
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[Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 4595
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
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[Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 4596
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4601
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4604
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4605
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4607
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4608
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Pressure
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Component Information > Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Locations
Right Rear Of Engine Compartment
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4662
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4664
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4704
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4705
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4706
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4707
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4708
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied from fuse 24 (fuse 12
without SRS) through the BLK/YEL wire to the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). The sensor is
grounded by the BLK wire to G101. The speedometer and other control units in the circuit supply
about 5 volts to the YEL/WHT wire. The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) intermittently grounds the
YEL/WHT wire which generates a pulsed signal in it. The number of pulse per minute
increases/decreases with the speed of the car.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4709
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4710
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 17: A problem in
the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Alternator FR Signal <-->
[Voltage Signal] > Component Information > Description and Operation
Alternator FR Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Alternator is charging.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Alternator FR Signal <-->
[Voltage Signal] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 4714
Alternator FR Signal: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Alternator FR Signal <-->
[Voltage Signal] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 4715
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter
<--> [Catalytic Converter] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter
Noise
Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust System - Catalytic
Converter Noise
SOURCE: Honda Service News
TITLE: Catalytic Converter Noise? Check the Heat Shield
APPLIES TO: All models
SERVICE TIP:
Got a vehicle in your shop that buzzes or rattles, and you suspect the catalytic converter is the
culprit? Before you start replacing the converter, first check the heat shield area. If there any stones
or debris trapped inside, they can cause buzzing or rattling.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter
<--> [Catalytic Converter] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4721
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter
<--> [Catalytic Converter] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4722
Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) is used to convert Hydrocarbons (HC), Carbon
Monoxide (CO), and Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust gas, to Carbon Dioxide (CO2),
Dinitrogen (N2) and water vapor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter
<--> [Catalytic Converter] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4723
Three Way Catalytic (TWC) Converter: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
If excessive exhaust system back-pressure is suspected, remove the TWC from the car and make
a visual check for plugging, melting or cracking of the Catalyst. Replace the TWC if any of the
visible area is damaged or plugged.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Locations
Canister Purge Control Valve: Locations
Middle Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Canister Purge Solenoid: Locations
Middle Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Canister Purge Solenoid: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4733
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4734
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4735
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4736
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4737
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4738
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4739
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4740
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4741
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4742
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4743
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4744
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4745
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4746
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4747
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4748
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4749
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4750
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4751
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4752
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4753
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4754
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4755
Canister Purge Solenoid: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4779
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Two-Way Valve <--> [Evaporative Check Valve] > Component Information > Locations
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Two-Way Valve: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove the fuel fill cap.
2. Remove vapor line from the fuel tank and connect to T-fitting from vacuum gauge and vacuum
pump as shown. 3. Apply vacuum slowly and continuously while watching the gauge.
Vacuum should stabilize momentarily at 5 to 15 mmHg (0.2 to 0.6 in. Hg). ^
If vacuum stabilizes (valve opens) below 5 mmHg (0.2 in. Hg) or above 15 mmHg (0.6 in. Hg), in
stall new valve and retest.
4. Move vacuum pump hose from vacuum to pressure fitting, and move vacuum gauge hose from
vacuum to pressure side as shown. 5. Slowly pressurize the vapor line while watching the gauge.
Pressure should stabilize at 10 to 35 mmHg (0.4 to 1.4 in. Hg). ^
If pressure momentarily stabilizes (valve opens) at 10 to 35 mmHg (0.4 to 1.4 in. Hg). the valve is
0K.
^ If pressure stabilizes below 10 mmHg (0.4 in. Hg) or above 35 mmHg (1.4 in. Hg), install a new
valve and retest.
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Evaporative Emission Control Canister: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Evaporative Emission Control Canister: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4840
Evaporative Emission Control Canister: Description and Operation
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) CONTROL CANISTER
EVAP Control Canister is used for the temporary storage of fuel vapor until the fuel vapor can be
purged from the EVAP Control Canister into the engine and burned.
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Exhaust Gas Recirculation: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4849
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Exhaust Gas Recirculation: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4886
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve > Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
MAR 10, 1997
Applies To: ALL Models
New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts > Page 4903
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
Replacement washers come in a set of five (T/N 07406-0040300).
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4904
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
At Curb Idle
With Vacuum Hose Connected
.......................................................................................................................................................
215-265 kPa (31-38 psi) With Vacuum Hose Disconnected
...................................................................................................................................................
280-330 kPa (40-47 psi)
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4905
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
1. Relieve fuel pressure. 2. Remove the service bolt on the fuel filter while holding the banjo bolt
with another wrench. Attach the special tool. 3. Start the engine *. Measure the fuel pressure with
the engine idling and vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel
pressure regulator and pinched.
Pressure should be: 280-330 kPa (2.8-3.3 kg/cm2, 40-47 psi)
4. Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
Pressure should be: 215-265 kPa (2.15-2.65 kg/cm2, 31-38 psi)
^ If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch on, wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back
on again and read the fuel pressure.
^ If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the fuel is OK, check the
following:
^ If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, inspect for: Pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
^ If the fuel pressure is lower than specified, inspect for: Clogged fuel filter.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator. Leakage in the fuel hoses or pipes.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release > System
Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the Fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from your work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the Ignition Switch is off.
NOTE: Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the 6 mm
service bolt on top of the fuel filter.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove the fuel fill
cap. 3. Use a box end wrench on the 6 mm service bolt at the fuel filter, while holding the special
banjo bolt with another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6 mm service bolt. 5. Slowly loosen the 6 mm service bolt one
complete turn.
NOTE: A fuel pressure gauge can be attached at the 6 mm service bolt hole.
- Always replace the washer between the service bolt and the special banjo bolt whenever the
service bolt is loosened.
- Replace all washers whenever the bolts are removed.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
IDLE SPEED
Manual transmission ............................................................................................................................
................................................. 670 RPM [01] Automatic transmission ..............................................
........................................................................................................................... 670 RPM [01]
[01] -- Transmission in Neutral or Park, headlights and cooling fan OFF.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications > Page 4912
Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection
1. Start the engine and allow it to warm-up (the radiator fan comes on).
2. Connect a tachometer to the test tachometer connector.
NOTE: All electrical systems should be turned OFF.
IDLE SPEED:
(M/T) in neutral:
(USA): 670 ± 50 rpm (Canada): 750 ± 50 rpm
(A/T) in [N] or [P]:
(USA): 700 ± 50 rpm (Canada): 750 ± 50 rpm
3. Adjust the idle speed, if necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications > Page 4913
Idle Speed: Adjustments
NOTE: ^
When the idle speed set, check the following items: The MIL has not been reported on.
- Ignition timing
- Spark plugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
^ (Canada) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights are off.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (A/T in [N] or [P] position, M/T in
neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it
idle.
2. Connect a tachometer.
3. Disconnect the 2P connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. 4. Start the engine with the
accelerator pedal slightly depressed. Stabilize the rpm at 1,000, then slowly release the pedal until
the engine idles.
5. Check idling in no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, rear defogger, radiator fan, and air
conditioning are not operating.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 420 +/- 50 rpm Others: 420 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 420 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
Adjust the idle speed, if necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw.
NOTE: After adjusting the idle speed in this step, check the ignition timing. If it is out of spec, go
back to step 4.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
7. Reconnect the 2P connector on the IAC valve, then remove BACK UP (7.5 A) fuse in the
under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the
ECM.
8. Restart and idle the engine with no-load conditions for one minute, then check the idle speed.
NOTE: (Canada) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights
are off.
Idle speed should be:
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications > Page 4914
M/T D15Z1 engine: 600 +/- 50 rpm Others: 670 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 700 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
9. Idle the engine for one minute with headlights (Low) ON and check the idle speed.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 700 +/- 50 rpm Others: 750 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 750 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
10. Turn the headlights off.
Idle the engine for one minute with heater fan switch at HI and air conditioner on, then check the
idle speed.
Idle speed should be:
M/T D15Z1 engine: 810 +/- 50 rpm Others: 810 +/- 50 rpm
A/T 810 +/- 50 rpm (in [N] or [P] position)
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, see System Troubleshooting Guide.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air/Fuel Mixture > System
Information > Adjustments
Air/Fuel Mixture: Adjustments
The Air/Fuel mixture is controlled by the engine control module and is not adjustable.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing >
Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4925
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4926
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4927
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4928
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4929
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4930
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4931
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4932
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4933
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4934
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4935
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4936
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4937
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4938
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4939
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4940
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4941
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4942
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4943
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4944
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4945
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4946
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4947
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4948
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4949
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4950
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4951
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4952
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4953
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4954
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4955
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4956
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4959
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4960
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4961
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4962
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4964
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4966
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4967
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4968
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4970
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4972
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed) >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed): Description and Operation
To prevent erratic running when the engine is warming up, it is necessary to raise the idle speed.
The fast idle thermo valve is controlled by a thermowax plunger. When the engine is cold, the
engine coolant surrounding the thermowax contracts the plunger, allowing additional air to be
bypassed into the intake manifold so that the engine idles faster. When the engine reaches
operating temperature, the valve closes, reducing the amount of air bypassing into the manifold.
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 4977
Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed): Testing and Inspection
NOTE: The fast idle thermo valve is factory adjusted; it should not be disassembled.
1. Remove the intake air duct from the throttle body. 2. Start the engine.
3. Put your finger over the lower port in throttle body and make sure that there is air flow with the
engine cold (engine coolant temperature below 86°
F, (30°C)). ^
If not, replace the fast idle thermo valve and retest.
4. Warm up the engine (the radiator fan comes on). 5. Check that the valve is completely closed. If
not, air suction can be felt at the lower port in the throttle body.
^ If any suction is felt, the valve is leaking. Check engine coolant level and for air in the engine
coolant system. If OK, replace the fast idle thermo valve and recheck.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the Fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from your work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the Ignition Switch is off.
NOTE: Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the 6 mm
service bolt on top of the fuel filter.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove the fuel fill
cap. 3. Use a box end wrench on the 6 mm service bolt at the fuel filter, while holding the special
banjo bolt with another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6 mm service bolt. 5. Slowly loosen the 6 mm service bolt one
complete turn.
NOTE: A fuel pressure gauge can be attached at the 6 mm service bolt hole.
- Always replace the washer between the service bolt and the special banjo bolt whenever the
service bolt is loosened.
- Replace all washers whenever the bolts are removed.
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Fuel Injector: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Fuel Injector: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Injector: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Fuel Injectors are a Solenoid-Actuated constant-stroke Pintle type consisting of a Solenoid,
Plunger Needle Valve and Housing. When current is applied to the Solenoid Coil, the Valve lifts up
and pressurized fuel is injected. Because the Needle Valve lift and the fuel pressure are constant,
the injection quantity is determined by the length of time that the Valve is open (i.e., the duration
the current is supplied to the Solenoid Coil). The Fuel Injector is sealed by an 0-ring and Seal Ring
at the top and bottom. These Seals also reduce operating noise.
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Fuel Injector: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke when working on the fuel system. Keep open flames away from your
work area.
1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Disconnect the connectors from the fuel injectors. 3. Disconnect the
vacuum hose and fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
NOTE: Place a rag or shop towel over the hoses before disconnecting them.
4. Disconnect the fuel pulsation damper and fuel hose from the fuel rail. 5. Loosen the retainer nuts
on the fuel rail and harness holder. 6. Disconnect the fuel rail. 7. Remove the fuel injectors from the
intake manifold. 8. Slide new cushion rings onto the fuel injectors. 9. Coat new 0-rings with clean
engine oil and put them on the fuel injectors.
10. Insert the fuel injectors into the fuel rail first. 11. Coat new seal rings with clean engine oil and
press them into the intake manifold.
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12. Install the fuel injectors and fuel rail assembly in the intake manifold.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the 0-rings, install the fuel injectors in the fuel rail first, then
install them in the intake manifold.
13. Align the center line on the connector with the mark on the fuel rail.
(D15Z1 engine only)
14. Install and tighten the retainer nuts. 15. Connect the fuel hose and fuel pulsation damper to the
fuel rail with new washers. 16. Connect the vacuum hose and fuel return hose to the fuel pressure
regulator. 17. Install the connectors on the fuel injectors. 18. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not
operate the starter. After the fuel pump runs for approximately two seconds, the fuel pressure in the
fuel
line rises. Repeat this two or three times, then check whether there is any fuel leakage.
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Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5043
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5052
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5053
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5054
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5055
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5056
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5057
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5063
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5064
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5065
Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5068
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5069
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5070
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5071
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5072
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5073
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5074
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5075
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5076
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5077
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5078
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5079
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5080
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5084
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5085
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5086
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5088
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5092
Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Locations > Page 5096
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Description and Operation
The fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure to the fuel injectors. When the
difference between the fuel pressure and manifold pressure exceeds 300 kPa (3.0 kg/cm2, 43 psi),
the diaphragm is pushed upward, and the excess fuel is fed back into the fuel tank through the
return line.
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Component Information > Locations > Page 5097
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Testing and Inspection
WARNING: Do not smoke during the test. Keep open flames away from your work area.
1. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the service port of the fuel filter.
Pressure should be: 280-330 kPa (2.8-3.3 kg/cm2, 40-47 psi) (with the fuel pressure regulator
vacuum hose disconnected and pinched)
2. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. 3. Check that the fuel pressure rises
when the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator is disconnected again.
NOTE: If the fuel pressure did not rise, replace the fuel pressure regulator.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Locations > Page 5098
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair
WARNING: DO NOT SMOKE WHILE WORKING ON FUEL SYSTEM. KEEP OPEN FLAME
AWAY FROM YOUR WORK AREA.
1. Place a shop towel under fuel pressure regulator, then relieve fuel pressure. 2. Disconnect the
vacuum hose and fuel return hose.
3. Remove the two 6 mm mounting bolts.
NOTE: Replace the 0-ring.
- When assembling the fuel pressure regulator, apply clean engine oil to the 0-ring and assemble it
into its proper position, taking care not to damage the 0-ring.
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> Component Information > Locations
Fuel And Emissions
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
MAR 10, 1997
Applies To: ALL Models
New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
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System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts > Page 5107
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
Replacement washers come in a set of five (T/N 07406-0040300).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5108
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
At Curb Idle
With Vacuum Hose Connected
.......................................................................................................................................................
215-265 kPa (31-38 psi) With Vacuum Hose Disconnected
...................................................................................................................................................
280-330 kPa (40-47 psi)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5109
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
1. Relieve fuel pressure. 2. Remove the service bolt on the fuel filter while holding the banjo bolt
with another wrench. Attach the special tool. 3. Start the engine *. Measure the fuel pressure with
the engine idling and vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel
pressure regulator and pinched.
Pressure should be: 280-330 kPa (2.8-3.3 kg/cm2, 40-47 psi)
4. Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
Pressure should be: 215-265 kPa (2.15-2.65 kg/cm2, 31-38 psi)
^ If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch on, wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back
on again and read the fuel pressure.
^ If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the fuel is OK, check the
following:
^ If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, inspect for: Pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
^ If the fuel pressure is lower than specified, inspect for: Clogged fuel filter.
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator. Leakage in the fuel hoses or pipes.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5115
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5117
Fuse Details Schematics
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5118
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5119
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5120
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5121
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5122
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5123
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5124
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Programed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) Main Relay actually contains two individual Relays. This
Relay is located at the left side of the Cowl. One Relay is energized whenever the Ignition is "ON"
which supplies the Battery voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM), power to the Fuel
Injectors, and power for the second Relay. The second Relay is energized for two seconds when
the Ignition is switched "ON", and when the Engine is running, to supply power to the Fuel Pump.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay.
- If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay.
- If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay.
- If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
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FLOWCHART PART 1
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FLOWCHART PART 2
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Information > Locations
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Fuel Supply Line: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Fuel Supply Line: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Supply Line: Testing and Inspection
Check all fuel system lines and hoses for damage, leaks or deterioration and replace if necessary.
Check all hose clamps and retighten if necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Component
Information > Specifications
Fuel Tank: Specifications
Capacity ...............................................................................................................................................
....................................... 45 liters (11.9 US Gallons)
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Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Information > Specifications > Page 5230
Fuel Tank: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Wear eye protection.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 degrees C (1000 degrees F).)
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel.
- Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose.
- Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
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Fuel Tank: Service and Repair
REPLACEMENT
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on fuel system. Keep open frame away from your work
area.
1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Jack up the car and support with jackstands. 3. Remove the drain
bolt and drain the fuel into an approved container. 4. Remove the exhaust pipe heat shield. 5.
Remove the rear seat and the access panel. 6. Disconnect the connectors from the fuel gauge
sending unit and the fuel pump, then remove the fuel feed pipe and return hose.
CAUTION: Be sure to turn the ignition switch OFF before disconnecting the wires.
7. Remove the fuel hose protectors. 8. Disconnect the hoses.
CAUTION: When disconnecting the hoses, slide back the clamps, then twist hoses as you pull to
avoid damaging them
9. Place a jack, or other support, under the tank.
10. Remove the strap bolts and nuts, and let the straps fall free. 11. Remove the fuel tank.
NOTE: The tank may stick on the undercoat applied to its mount. To remove, carefully pry it off the
mount.
12. Install a new washer on the drain bolt and the fuel pump line, then install parts in the reverse
order of removal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Locations
Fuel Tank Unit: Locations
Below Center Of Rear Seat
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed Control (Linkage) >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Idle Speed Control (Linkage): Diagram Information and Instructions
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5239
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5240
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5242
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5243
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5245
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5246
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Idle Speed Control (Linkage): Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator Electronic > Component Information > Locations
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5300
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The IAC Valve changes the amount of air bypassing the Throttle Body in response to a current
signal from the Engine Control Module (ECM) in order to maintain the proper idle speed.
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 14: A problem in
the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve circuit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main
Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI Main Relay: Locations
The PGM-FI relay is located under the left side of the dash.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5360
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main
Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5362
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The PGM-FI main relay actually contains two individual relays. The relay is located at the left side
of the cowl. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, which supplies the battery voltage
to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is
energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running, to
supply power to the fuel pump.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Main Relay And Harness Inspection
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Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main
Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5402
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5409
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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> Page 5410
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5411
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5412
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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> Page 5413
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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> Page 5414
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5415
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
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> Page 5416
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5417
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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> Page 5418
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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> Page 5419
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5420
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5421
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5422
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5423
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
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> Page 5425
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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> Page 5426
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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> Page 5427
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
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> Page 5428
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5429
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5430
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5431
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5432
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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> Page 5433
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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> Page 5434
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5435
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5436
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5437
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 5439
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Programed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) Main Relay actually contains two individual Relays. This
Relay is located at the left side of the Cowl. One Relay is energized whenever the Ignition is "ON"
which supplies the Battery voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM), power to the Fuel
Injectors, and power for the second Relay. The second Relay is energized for two seconds when
the Ignition is switched "ON", and when the Engine is running, to supply power to the Fuel Pump.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay.
- If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay.
- If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay.
- If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
- If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
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FLOWCHART PART 1
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5462
FLOWCHART PART 2
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Locations
PGM-FI Main Relay: Locations
The PGM-FI relay is located under the left side of the dash.
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5469
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5470
Fuse Details Schematics
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5471
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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PGM-FI Main Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 5517
PGM-FI Main Relay: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The PGM-FI main relay actually contains two individual relays. The relay is located at the left side
of the cowl. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, which supplies the battery voltage
to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is
energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running, to
supply power to the fuel pump.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 5518
PGM-FI Main Relay: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
1. Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
^ If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Main Relay And Harness Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 5519
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > PGM-FI Main Relay <--> [Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 5520
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Intake Air Resonator (IAR) <-->
[Resonator, Intake Air] > Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Intake Air Resonator (IAR) <-->
[Resonator, Intake Air] > Component Information > Locations > Page 5524
Intake Air Resonator (IAR): Description and Operation
The intake air resonator provides additional silencing as air is drawn into the intake air system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5530
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5531
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5532
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5533
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5534
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5535
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5536
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5537
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5538
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5539
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5540
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5541
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5542
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5543
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5544
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5545
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5546
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5547
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5548
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5549
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5550
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5551
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5552
Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5553
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5554
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5555
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5556
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5557
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5558
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Instructions > Page 5566
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
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Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5583
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5584
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5585
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5586
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5587
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5588
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5589
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5590
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5591
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5592
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5593
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5594
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5595
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5596
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5597
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5598
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Instructions > Page 5599
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Instructions > Page 5600
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Instructions > Page 5601
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Instructions > Page 5603
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5604
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5605
Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5608
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5609
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5610
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5611
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5614
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5616
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5618
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5619
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5620
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5621
Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Instructions > Page 5625
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5626
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5627
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Instructions > Page 5628
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5630
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 5635
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The TP Sensor is a Potentiometer. It is connected to the Throttle Valve Shaft. As the Throttle
Position changes, the Throttle Position Sensor varies the voltage signal to the Engine Control
Module (ECM).
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Throttle Body: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The throttle body is of the single-barrel side-draft type. The lower portion of the throttle valve is
heated by engine coolant which is fed from the cylinder head. The idle adjusting screw which
increases/decreases bypass air and the evaporative emission (EVAP) control canister port are
located on the top of the throttle body.
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Throttle Body: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: Do not adjust the throttle stop screw. It is preset at the factory.
1. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose (to the EVAP control canister) from the top of the throttle body;
connect a vacuum gauge to the throttle body. 3. Allow the engine to idle and check that the gauge
indicates no vacuum.
^ If there is vacuum, check the throttle cable.
4. Check that vacuum is indicated on the gauge when the throttle is opened slightly from idle.
^ If the gauge indicates no vacuum, check the throttle body port. If the throttle body port is clogged,
clean it with carburetor cleaner.
5. Stop the engine and check that the throttle cable operates smoothly without binding or sticking.
^ If there are any abnormalities in the above steps, check for:
- Excessive wear or play in the throttle valve shaft.
- Sticky or binding throttle lever at full close position.
- Clearance between throttle stop screw and throttle lever at full close position.
Replace the throttle body if there is excessive play in the throttle valve shaft or if the shaft is binding
or sticking.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5642
Throttle Body: Service and Repair
D16Z6, D15B7 ENGINE
D15B8, D15Z1 ENGINE
CAUTION: ^
The throttle stop screw is non-adjustable.
^ After reassembly, adjust the throttle cable, and A/T throttle control cable for cars with A/T.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Specifications
Accelerator cable free play
........................................................................................................................................................ 10
- 12 mm (0.39 - 0.47 in.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 5646
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Testing and Inspection
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Check that
the throttle cable operates smoothly with no binding or sticking. Repair as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 5647
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Adjustments
3. Check cable free play at the throttle linkage.
Cable deflection: 10-12 mm (0.39-0.47 in.).
4. If deflection is not within specs, loosen the locknut, turn the adjusting nut until the deflection is as
specified, then retighten the locknut. 5. With the cable properly adjusted, check the throttle valve to
be sure it opens fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. Also check the
throttle valve to be sure it returns to the idle position whenever you release the accelerator.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 5648
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Service and Repair
1. Fully open the throttle valve, then install the throttle cable in the throttle linkage and install the
cable housing in the cable bracket.
2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 3. Hold the
cable sheath, removing all slack from the cable. 4. Turn the adjusting nut until it is 3 mm (0.12 in)
away from the cable bracket.
5. Tighten the locknut. The cable deflection should now be 10-12 mm (0.39-0.47 in.). If not, see
Inspection/Adjustment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5653
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5654
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5655
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5656
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5657
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5658
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5659
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5660
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5661
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5662
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5663
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5664
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5665
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5666
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5667
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5668
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5669
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5670
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5671
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5672
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5673
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5674
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5675
Throttle Full Open Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5676
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5677
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5678
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5679
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5680
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5681
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5682
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5683
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5684
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Full Open Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5685
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5689
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Throttle Position Sensor: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Component Information > Locations > Page 5706
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The TP Sensor is a Potentiometer. It is connected to the Throttle Valve Shaft. As the Throttle
Position changes, the Throttle Position Sensor varies the voltage signal to the Engine Control
Module (ECM).
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Specifications
Firing Order: Specifications
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > System Check Connector <-->
[Ignition Timing Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
System Check Connector: Component Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
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[Ignition Timing Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 5716
System Check Connector: Connector Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
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Component Information > Locations
Number One Cylinder: Locations
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System Information > Locations
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The CKP Sensor determines timing for Fuel Injection and ignition of each Cylinder and also detects
Engine speed. The TDC Sensor determines Ignition Timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank
angle is abnormal. The CYP Sensor detects the position of No. 1 Cylinder for sequential fuel
injection to each Cylinder.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 5726
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 5727
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5732
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5733
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5734
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5735
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5736
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5737
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5738
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5739
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5740
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5741
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5742
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5743
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5744
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5745
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5746
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5753
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5754
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5757
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5758
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5759
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5760
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5761
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5763
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5764
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5768
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5769
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Distributor Cap >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Distributor Cap: Testing and Inspection
Check the following points, repair or replace as needed if a problem is found.
1. There must be no cracking in the cap. 2. There must be no damage to the cap's electrodes. 3.
Clean away any accumulated dirt from the cap.
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Information > Testing and Inspection
Ignition Rotor: Testing and Inspection
Check the following points, repair or replace as needed if a problem is found.
1. There must be no cracking in the rotor. 2. There must be no damage to the rotor's electrode. 3.
Clean away any accumulated dirt from the rotor.
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Specifications
Ignition Cable: Specifications
Resistance at 20°C (68°F) ...................................................................................................................
......................................................... 25 K Ohms max
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Ignition Cable: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5798
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Ignition Cable: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Ignition Cable: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: Carefully remove the ignition wires by pulling on the rubber boots. Do not bend the
wires; you might break them inside.
1. Check the condition of the wire terminals. If any terminal is corroded, clean it, and if it is broken
or distorted, replace the wire.
2. Connect ohmmeter probes and measure resistance.
Resistance: 25 k Ohms max. at 70° F (20°C)
3. If resistance exceeds 25 k Ohms, replace the ignition wire.
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Specifications
Ignition Coil: Specifications
Rated Voltage ......................................................................................................................................
.................................................................... 12 Volts
Resistance at 20°C (68°F):
Primary Winding ..................................................................................................................................
............................................... 0.6 - 0.8 Ohms Secondary Winding .....................................................
.................................................................................................................. 12.8 - 19.2 kOhms
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Ignition Coil: Locations
The ignition coil is located inside the distributor.
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Ignition Coil: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Ignition Coil: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Ignition Coil: Description and Operation
Ignition Coil Schematic Diagram
PURPOSE
The Ignition Coil transforms battery voltage into ignition voltage and delivers it in the form of a high
voltage surge to the secondary ignition components.
OPERATION
The ignition coil (located in the distributor) uses the principle of mutual induction to step up battery
(low) voltage to ignition (high) voltage. The ignition coil contains two sets of copper wire windings
around a soft iron core. The primary winding is made of a hundred or so turns of a heavy gage
wire. It is connected to the battery through the ignition switch (+) and to the ignition control module
(ignitor) (-) so that current flows through it, thus creating a magnetic field. The secondary winding is
connected to the coil output tower through the iron core. It contains several thousand turns of wire
wound directly onto the iron core. The ratio of the number of wraps in the secondary winding to the
number of wraps in the primary windings determines the output voltage of the coil. The ratio is
approx. 1 to 110. When current flow in the primary winding is stopped (by the ignitor breaking the
circuit ground), the collapse of the magnetic field causes a high voltage (20,000 volts or more) to
be induced in the secondary windings.
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Ignition Coil: Testing and Inspection
1. With the ignition switch OFF, remove the distributor ignition cap.
2. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from the terminals A
(+) and B (-) respectively.
3. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the
resistance is not within specifications.
NOTE: Resistance will vary with the coil temperature; specifications are at 68°F (2O° C)
Primary Winding Resistance (Between the A and B terminals): 0.6 - 0.8 Ohms
Secondary Winding Resistance (Between the A and secondary winding terminals): 12.8 - 19.2
kOhms
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Ignition Coil: Service and Repair
1. With ignition switch OFF, remove the distributor ignition cap, rotor and cap seal, then remove the
leak cover.
2. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from the terminals.
3. Remove the two screws and slide the ignition coil out of the distributor ignition housing.
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> Locations
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Ignition Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Ignition Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5955
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5956
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5957
Ignition Control Module: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information
> Diagrams > Page 5958
Ignition Control Module: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Perform an input test for the ignition control module (ICM) after finishing the fundamental
tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions systems. The tachometer should operate
normally.
1. Remove the distributor ignition cap, the distributor ignition rotor, and the leak cover.
2. Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground.
There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.
^ If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground.
There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check: Ignition coil.
- WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the ICM.
^ If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
5. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
6. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM.
7. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Removal
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Removal
1. Disconnect the 2-P and 8-P connectors from the distributor.
2. Disconnect the ignition wires from the distributor ignition cap.
3. Remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder bead.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Removal > Page 5961
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil, then install it.
2. Slip the distributor into position.
NOTE: The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both
offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.
3. Install the mounting bolts and tighten them temporarily. 4. Connect the 2-P and 8-P connectors
to the distributor.
5. Connect the ignition wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light. 7. After setting the
timing, tighten the mounting bolts.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Removal > Page 5962
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Overhaul
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Removal > Page 5963
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Removal > Page 5964
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Reassembly
Reassemble the distributor in the reverse order of disassembly.
1. Install the distributor ignition rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (Toward the
No. 1 cylinder).
2. Slip the thrust washer and coupling onto the shaft.
3. Check that the distributor ignition rotor is still pointing toward the No. 1 cylinder, then align the
index mark on the distributor ignition housing
with the index mark on the coupling.
4. Drive in the pin and secure it with the pin retainer.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > System Check Connector <--> [Ignition Timing
Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
System Check Connector: Component Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > System Check Connector <--> [Ignition Timing
Connector] > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 5969
System Check Connector: Connector Locations
The Service Check Connector is located behind the glove box.
CAUTION: Do not use a jumper wire on the Data Link Connector.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Ignition Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5976
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5977
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5978
Fuse Details Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5979
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5980
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5981
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5982
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5983
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5984
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5985
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5986
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5987
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5988
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5989
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5990
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5991
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5992
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5993
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5994
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5995
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5996
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5997
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5998
Ignition Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5999
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6000
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6007
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6023
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6024
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6025
Ignition Control Module: Connector Views
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6026
Ignition Control Module: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Perform an input test for the ignition control module (ICM) after finishing the fundamental
tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions systems. The tachometer should operate
normally.
1. Remove the distributor ignition cap, the distributor ignition rotor, and the leak cover.
2. Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground.
There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.
^ If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground.
There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check: Ignition coil.
- WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the ICM.
^ If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
5. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
6. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM.
7. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Removal
1. Disconnect the 2-P and 8-P connectors from the distributor.
2. Disconnect the ignition wires from the distributor ignition cap.
3. Remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder bead.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 6029
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil, then install it.
2. Slip the distributor into position.
NOTE: The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both
offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.
3. Install the mounting bolts and tighten them temporarily. 4. Connect the 2-P and 8-P connectors
to the distributor.
5. Connect the ignition wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light. 7. After setting the
timing, tighten the mounting bolts.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 6030
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Overhaul
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Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 6031
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal > Page 6032
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair Reassembly
Reassemble the distributor in the reverse order of disassembly.
1. Install the distributor ignition rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (Toward the
No. 1 cylinder).
2. Slip the thrust washer and coupling onto the shaft.
3. Check that the distributor ignition rotor is still pointing toward the No. 1 cylinder, then align the
index mark on the distributor ignition housing
with the index mark on the coupling.
4. Drive in the pin and secure it with the pin retainer.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The CKP Sensor determines timing for Fuel Injection and ignition of each Cylinder and also detects
Engine speed. The TDC Sensor determines Ignition Timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank
angle is abnormal. The CYP Sensor detects the position of No. 1 Cylinder for sequential fuel
injection to each Cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 6037
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 6038
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6043
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6044
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6045
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6046
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6047
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6048
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6049
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6050
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6051
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6052
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6053
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6054
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6055
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6056
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6057
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6058
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6059
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6060
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6061
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6063
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6064
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6065
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6066
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6090
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6091
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6092
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6093
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 4: A problem in the
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8: A problem in the
Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 9: A problem in the
Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Starting System Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Gap and Torque
Spark Plug: Specifications Gap and Torque
Spark Plug Gap ...................................................................................................................................
........................................................ 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
Spark Plug Torque ...............................................................................................................................
......................................................... 18 Nm (13 ft lb)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Gap and Torque > Page 6103
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6104
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Spark Plug Inspection
1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator for:
Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: ^
Advanced ignition timing
^ Loose spark plug
^ Plug heat range too low
^ Insufficient cooling
Fouled plug may be caused by: ^
Retarded ignition timing
^ Oil in combustion chamber
^ Incorrect spark plug gap
^ Plug heat range too high
^ Excessive idling/low speed running
^ Clogged air cleaner element
^ Deteriorated ignition coil or ignition wires
2. Adjust the gap with a suitable gapping tool.
3. Replace the plug if the center electrode is rounded as shown above.
NOTE: Do not use spark plugs other than recommended types. These plugs are a new type (ISO
standard).
4. Screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger tight, then torque them to 18 N-m (1.8 kg-m, 13
lb-ft).
NOTE: Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads before installing.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Tachometer Connector > Component Information
> Locations
Tachometer Connector: Locations
Left Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6114
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
Fig. 13 Shift Lock Solenoid Test Terminal
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6115
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
Fig. 16 Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
............................... 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6119
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6120
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Lock-up control solenoid valves A and B must be removed/replaced as an assembly.
1. Disconnect the connector from the lock-up control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No. 1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the lock-up control
solenoid valve connector and body ground, and
between the No. 2 terminal (solenoid valve B) and body ground.
Standard: 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
3. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4.
Connect the No. 1 terminal of the lock-up control solenoid valve connector to the battery positive
terminal and body ground. A clicking sound
should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal and body ground. A
clicking sound should be heard.
5. If there is no clicking, check for continuity between the engine control module (ECM) A19 or A17
harness and body ground using the Test
Harness: O7LAJ - PT3O1OA.
NOTE: Always use the Test Harness (O7LAJ PT3O1OA) for checking.
6. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if there is continuity between the ECM A19
or A17 harness and body ground.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6121
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt, and replace as an
assembly, if necessary.
3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly and
install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it securely.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information >
Locations
Shift Interlock Control Module: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Shift Interlock Switch > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6135
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6136
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6137
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6144
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
Fig. 13 Shift Lock Solenoid Test Terminal
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6145
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
Fig. 16 Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
............................... 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page
6149
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page
6150
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Lock-up control solenoid valves A and B must be removed/replaced as an assembly.
1. Disconnect the connector from the lock-up control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No. 1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the lock-up control
solenoid valve connector and body ground, and
between the No. 2 terminal (solenoid valve B) and body ground.
Standard: 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
3. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4.
Connect the No. 1 terminal of the lock-up control solenoid valve connector to the battery positive
terminal and body ground. A clicking sound
should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal and body ground. A
clicking sound should be heard.
5. If there is no clicking, check for continuity between the engine control module (ECM) A19 or A17
harness and body ground using the Test
Harness: O7LAJ - PT3O1OA.
NOTE: Always use the Test Harness (O7LAJ PT3O1OA) for checking.
6. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if there is continuity between the ECM A19
or A17 harness and body ground.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page
6151
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt, and replace as an
assembly, if necessary.
3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly and
install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it securely.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6157
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
Fig. 13 Shift Lock Solenoid Test Terminal
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6158
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
Fig. 16 Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
............................... 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6162
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6163
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Lock-up control solenoid valves A and B must be removed/replaced as an assembly.
1. Disconnect the connector from the lock-up control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No. 1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the lock-up control
solenoid valve connector and body ground, and
between the No. 2 terminal (solenoid valve B) and body ground.
Standard: 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
3. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4.
Connect the No. 1 terminal of the lock-up control solenoid valve connector to the battery positive
terminal and body ground. A clicking sound
should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal and body ground. A
clicking sound should be heard.
5. If there is no clicking, check for continuity between the engine control module (ECM) A19 or A17
harness and body ground using the Test
Harness: O7LAJ - PT3O1OA.
NOTE: Always use the Test Harness (O7LAJ PT3O1OA) for checking.
6. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if there is continuity between the ECM A19
or A17 harness and body ground.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6164
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt, and replace as an
assembly, if necessary.
3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly and
install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it securely.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. AF
CAPACITY, Refill*:
Accord 4cyl...........................................................................................................................................
........................................ 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
V6 ........................................................................................................................................................
................................... 2.7 liters 2.9 quarts
Civic, Del Sol .......................................................................................................................................
........................................ 2.7 liters 2.9 quarts
Prelude ................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
Odyssey, Oasis ...................................................................................................................................
........................................... 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
*With the engine at operating temperature, shift transmission through all gears. Turn engine off and
check fluid level within 1 minute.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 6169
Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications
KEY TO LUBRICATION ABBREVIATIONS
NOTE: Some manufacturer lubricant names may differ from the following list. If the manufacturer
does not recommend a specific lubricant, use the following.
AF
Dexron(r)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid
AP ATF-PLUS(r) Automatic Transmission Fluid
BJ Suspension Lubricant
BL Brake Lubricant
CC Motor Oil, API Service CC
CD Motor Oil, API Service CD
CE Motor Oil, API Service CE
CF-4 Motor Oil, API Service CF-4
DC Distributor Cam Lubricant
EC Ethylene Glycol Coolant
EP Extreme Pressure Gear Oil
FA Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type F
GC
Wheel Bearing Grease, NLGI Classification GC
GF-1 Motor Oil, API Service GF-1 (Starburst)
GL-1 Gear Oil, API Service GL-1
GL-4 Gear Oil, API Service GL-4
GL-5 Gear Oil, API Service GL-5
GL-5* GL-5 Gear Oil for Limited Slip Differentials
GLS Gear Lubricant, Special
HB Hydraulic Brake Fluid, SAE J1703, DOT-3 or 4
HBH Hydraulic Brake Fluid, Extra Heavy Duty
HG High Temperature Grease
HP Hypoid Gear Oil
HP* Hypoid Gear Oil for Limited Slip or Traction-Lok Differentials
LB Chassis Grease, NLGI Classification LB
LL
Steering Linkage Lubricant
LM Lithium Multipurpose Grease
MA Mercon(r) Automatic Transmission Fluid
MH Manifold Heat Riser Solvent
MO Motor Oil, Any API Service Classification
PC Carburetor Cleaner
PS Power Steering Fluid
SF Motor Oil, API service SF
SG Motor Oil, API service SG
SH Motor Oil, API service SH
SLF Special Lubricant - Fluid
SLS Special Lubricant - Spray
WB
Wheel Bearing Grease
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6170
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair
Checking
NOTE: Check the fluid level with the engine at normal operating temperature (the cooling fan
comes on).
1. Park the car on level ground. Shut off the engine.
2. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) from the transmission and wipe it with a clean cloth. 3. Insert
the dipstick into the transmission.
4. Remove the dipstick and check the fluid level. It should be between the upper and lower marks.
5. If the level is below the lower mark, add fluid into the tube to bring it to the upper mark. Use
Honda Premium Formula Automatic Transmission
Fluid or an equivalent DEXRON® II Automatic Transmission Fluid (AT F) only.
6. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission.
Changing
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6171
1.Bring the transmission up to operating temperature by driving the car. Park the car on level
ground, turn the engine off, then remove drain plug.
2.Reinstall the drain plug with a new washer, then refill the transmission to the upper mark on the
dipstick.
Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity: 2.7 (2.9 US qt , 2.4 Imp at) at change 5.9 (6.2 US at , 5.2
Imp at) at overhaul
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Relays and Modules - A/T
> Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Control Module: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Torque Converter Oil Seal - Installation Tool
Seals and Gaskets: Technical Service Bulletins Torque Converter Oil Seal - Installation Tool
00-022
March 7, 2000
Applies To: ALL Models With L4 or V6 Engine and A/T With 44 mm I.D. Torque Converter Oil Seal
Torque Converter Oil Seal Installation Tool
The service manual procedure for installing the torque converter oil seal requires you to
disassemble the transmission. A new required special tool, which attaches to your existing 40 mm
l.D. driver, lets you install this seal without removing the main shaft or disassembling the
transmission.
REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS
Seal Driver Attachment: T/N O7XAD-001000A (Shipped to all dealers March 2000 as a required
special tool)
40 mm I.D. Driver: T/N 07746-0030100
ORDERING INFORMATION
Additional seal driver attachments are available from American Honda using normal parts ordering
procedures.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None. This service bulletin is for information only.
PROCEDURE
1. Remove the transmission (see section 14 of the appropriate service manual).
2. Remove and discard the torque converter oil seal. Be careful not to damage the torque converter
housing.
3. Select the appropriate replacement seal.
4. Press the long end of the seal driver attachment into the driver. Press the new seal onto the
short end. Do not apply any type of sealer to the seal or
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Torque Converter Oil Seal - Installation Tool > Page 6180
the torque converter housing; you must install the seal dry.
5. Slide the tool over the mainshaft as far as it will go.
6. With a soft-face hammer, lightly tap the driver until the seal is fully seated in the torque converter
housing.
7. Reinstall the transmission.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Shift Interlock Switch > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations >
Page 6188
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations >
Page 6189
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations >
Page 6190
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T > Shift
Interlock Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Control Module: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T > Shift
Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T > Shift
Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6198
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
Fig. 13 Shift Lock Solenoid Test Terminal
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T > Shift
Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6199
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
Fig. 16 Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T > Shift
Interlock Switch > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T > Shift
Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments
Shift Cable: Adjustments
1. With engine off, remove console.
2. Shift selector to Neutral position, then remove lockpin from cable adjuster, Fig. 14. 3. Ensure
hole in adjuster is perfectly aligned with hole in shift cable. 4. If holes are not aligned, loosen
locknut on shift cable and adjust as necessary. There are two holes in end of shift cable positioned
90 degrees
apart to allow for small adjustments.
5. Tighten locknut, then install lockpin on adjuster. If lock pin binds during installation, cable is still
out of adjustment. 6. Start engine and check shift lever in all gears. If any gear does not work, refer
to Testing and Inspection / Procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Cable/Linkage, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments
Throttle Valve Cable/Linkage: Adjustments
NOTE: Before adjusting the throttle control cable, make sure that:
Throttle cable free play is correct. Idle speed is correct. You warm up the engine to normal
operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
1. Verify that the throttle control cable is clamped correctly in three positions.
2. Verify that the throttle linkage is in the fully-closed position 3. Loosen the locknut on the throttle
control cable at the throttle control lever.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Cable/Linkage, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6210
4. Remove the free play in the throttle control cable with the locknut, while pushing the throttle
control lever to the fully-closed position as shown.
5. Tighten lock nuts. 6. After tightening the locknuts, inspect the synchronization and throttle control
lever movement.
NOTE: To tailor the shift/lock-up characteristics to a particular customer's driving expectations, you
can adjust the throttle control cable up to 2 mm (O.07B in) shorter than the "synchronized" point.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter Clutch
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
............................... 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter Clutch
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6214
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter Clutch
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6215
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Lock-up control solenoid valves A and B must be removed/replaced as an assembly.
1. Disconnect the connector from the lock-up control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No. 1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the lock-up control
solenoid valve connector and body ground, and
between the No. 2 terminal (solenoid valve B) and body ground.
Standard: 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
3. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4.
Connect the No. 1 terminal of the lock-up control solenoid valve connector to the battery positive
terminal and body ground. A clicking sound
should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal and body ground. A
clicking sound should be heard.
5. If there is no clicking, check for continuity between the engine control module (ECM) A19 or A17
harness and body ground using the Test
Harness: O7LAJ - PT3O1OA.
NOTE: Always use the Test Harness (O7LAJ PT3O1OA) for checking.
6. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if there is continuity between the ECM A19
or A17 harness and body ground.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter Clutch
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6216
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt, and replace as an
assembly, if necessary.
3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly and
install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it securely.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information
Use Worm-Style Clamps With the ATF Cooler Cleaner
The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF
cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high
pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off
or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop.
In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to
replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and
securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some
more? Just call G-TFC, Inc.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information > Page 6221
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information
89-022
May 16, 2008
Applies To: Vehicles With an In-Radiator ATF Cooler - ALL
ATF Cooler Cleaner
(Supersedes 89-022, dated June 18, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks)
Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured A/T, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler
to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat A/T failure. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner (PIN GTHTTCF6H) is a portable, electrically operated special tool that cleans the ATF
cooler with high- pressure, heated ATF. This cleaning action melts down waxy varnish residue left
by burnt ATF and purges metal particles, clutch material, and other contaminants. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner has these features:
^ Quick-connect fittings and color-coded hoses for easy hookup.
^ Uses about 9.5 gallons of Honda ATF-Z1, which gets filtered and recirculated.
^ Heats ATF to a temperature of 1400 to 150°F and then pumps it through the ATF cooler at high
pressure (100 psi) using a pulsating action and air purging. Switching the hoses cleans the ATF
cooler in the reverse direction.
^ Two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters to trap purged contaminants.
^ Built-in tool tray.
This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides
you through the entire ATF cooler cleaning process.
*REQUIRED MATERIALS
Honda ATF-Z1: P/N 08200-9001
Magnetic Nonbypass Spin-On Filter:
T/N GTHNBP12 (12-pack) T/N GTHNBP2 (6-pack) T/N GTHGNBP22 (2-pack)
ORDERING INFORMATION
Additional ATF cooler cleaners or magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters can be ordered through the
Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order on the iN, click on SERVICE, then Service Bay,
then Tool and Equipment Program. From the Tool and Equipment Program menu, click on the
Online Catalog tab, and then search for the desired filter pack by part number.*
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information > Page 6222
TOOL DESCRIPTION
CLEANING PROCEDURE
The cleaning procedure involves hot fluid under high pressure. Check the security of all hoses and
connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing. If you get
ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately.
Improper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries.
Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow all instructions in this bulletin.
1. Plug the ATF cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet.
NOTICE
Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged
into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light cord; you would
damage the unit.
2. Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating
temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140° to
150°F.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information > Page 6223
3. Connect the appropriate fittings to the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. Connect the red hose to
the cooler outlet line (the line going to the external filter). Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet
line.
4. Connect a shop air hose to the air purge valve.
NOTICE
The quick connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air
system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to
your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible.
5. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the
cleaning process.
6. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
7. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler, then connect the red hose to the cooler
inlet line.
8. Connect the blue hose to the cooler outlet line.
9. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically.
10. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
11. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines. Connect the red and blue hoses
to each other.
12. Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used.
13. Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines.
14. Unplug the cooler cleaner from the 110 V outlet.
TOOL MAINTENANCE
Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly:
*^ Replace the two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters every 20 hours, based on hour meter
reading. For more information on filter replacement, see the
January 2008 Honda ServiceNews article, Hour Meter Tells You When to Replace ATF Cooler
Cleaner Filters.*
^ Fill the tank so the ATF is 4.5 inches from the top of the filler hole; do not overfill.
NOTE:
If the fluid level is low, the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on and the tank
heater will not work.
^ Replace the ATF in the tank when it looks dark or dirty.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information > Page 6224
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > A/T Gear Position Signal
<--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > A/T Gear Position Signal
<--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6228
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > A/T Gear Position Signal
<--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6229
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > A/T Gear Position Signal
<--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6230
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Diagrams
Valve Body: Diagrams
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6234
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Master Cylinder
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Clutch Master Cylinder: Service and Repair
1. Remove fluid with syringe, disconnect clutch pipe and reservoir hose from master cylinder, then
plug clutch pipe and reservoir hose. 2. Pry out cotter pin and remove pedal pin yoke, then remove
nuts and master cylinder. 3. Reverse procedure to install. Bleed hydraulic system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Slave Cylinder
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Clutch Slave Cylinder: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect and plug clutch hydraulic hose from slave cylinder. 2. Remove slave cylinder to
clutch housing attaching bolts, then slave cylinder. 3. Reverse procedure to install. Bleed hydraulic
system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Clutch Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Hitachi Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6248
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Mitsuba Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6249
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Nippondenso Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Transmission Cooler, CVT > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information
Use Worm-Style Clamps With the ATF Cooler Cleaner
The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF
cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high
pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off
or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop.
In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to
replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and
securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some
more? Just call G-TFC, Inc.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly > Axle
Shaft > Component Information > Specifications
Axle Shaft: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Spindle Nut .........................................................
.............................................................................................................................................................
134
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly > Axle
Shaft > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6260
Axle Shaft: Service and Repair
NOTE: Replacement procedures for left and right driveshafts are the same.
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Drain transaxle. 3. Raise locking
tab on spindle nut, then remove nut. 4. Remove damper fork, then the cotter pin from lower arm
ball joint castle nut and remove nut. 5. Install hex nut on ball joint. Ensure nut is flush with ball joint
pin end, or threaded section of ball joint pin might be damaged by ball joint
remover.
6. Separate ball joint and lower arm using ball joint remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00100, or
equivalent. Be careful not to damage ball joint boot. 7. Pry driveshaft assembly with screwdriver to
force set ring at driveshaft end past groove. 8. Pull on inboard joint and remove driveshaft from
differential case or bearing support as an assembly. Do not pull on driveshaft, as inboard joint
may come apart. Use care when prying out assembly, and pull it straight to avoid damaging
differential oil seal or intermediate shaft outer seal.
9. Pull knuckle outward and remove driveshaft outboard joint from front wheel hub using plastic
hammer.
10. Reverse procedure to install.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Constant Velocity
Joint: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns
Constant Velocity Joint: Customer Interest Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns
91-029
January 26, 1999
Applies To: ALL 1988 and later Models*
Clicking Noise While Turning (Supersedes 91-029, dated April 17, 1992)
Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars.
SYMPTOM
A clicking noise is heard while making right or left turns at 10 mph or less.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Worn outboard driveshaft joint.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the noisy outboard driveshaft joint.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Defect code: 042
Contention code: B07
Failed part: Use the replacement Part Number
Skill level: Repair Technician
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS
DIAGNOSIS
(Driving method)
1. Drive the car in a circle in an open parking lot at approximately 10 mph with the brakes slightly
applied.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Constant Velocity
Joint: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 6269
2. Have an assistant stand in the center of the circle and listen for the clicking noise.
3. Drive the car in the opposite direction. The assistant should be able to tell which axle is making
the noise.
DIAGNOSIS
(On-hoist method)
1. Raise the car on a hoist and start the engine.
2. With the transmission in first gear (manual transmission) or D4 (automatic transmission),
increase the engine speed to 2,000 rpm.
3. Apply the brakes to load the engine speed to 1,500 rpm while maintaining the same throttle
position.
4. Turn the wheels slowly to full left and full right positions. Have an assistant listen to determine
which axle is making the noise.
NOTE:
A driveshaft with a light degree of noise may not be detected by this on-hoist method.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the driveshaft as described in Section 16 of the appropriate service manual.
2. Use diagonal cutters to cut the two boot bands and the outboard joint boot, then remove them
from the driveshaft.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the outboard joint. Measure and record distance "A" (from the
splined end of the driveshaft to the inner race) as a reference for reassembly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Constant Velocity
Joint: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 6270
4. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise.
5. *Remove the outboard joint using the threaded adapter (see REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS) and
a commercially available 5/8" x 18 slide hammer.*
6. Remove and discard the "C" clip from the driveshaft. Clean and inspect the driveshaft splines
and ring groove for burrs or other defects.
7. Install the new outboard joint boot provided in the kit. Slide it slowly onto the driveshaft to avoid
damaging the boot.
8. Install the new "C" clip onto the ring groove of the driveshaft.
9. Insert the driveshaft in the new outboard joint. Make sure the "C" clip is centered on the shaft
and is resting against the chamfered edge of the inner race.
10. Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Constant Velocity
Joint: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 6271
11. To drive the outboard joint on the rest of the way, pick up the assembly and let it fall from about
10 cm (4 to 5 in.) onto a hard surface.
NOTICE
Do not use a hammer; excessive force may damage the driveshaft.
12. Measure distance "A" (from the splines to the inner race of the joint). If the distance is more
than your measurement in Step 3, repeat Step 11.
13. When distance "A" equals your measurement in Step 3, the "C" clip should be seated in the
joint. Tap on the inner race with a plastic hammer to make sure the joint does not move on the
driveshaft.
14. Fit the small end of the boot into the boot groove on the driveshaft.
15. Install the small boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
16. Pack the outboard boot with the grease included in the kit. Pack the outboard joint with the
remaining grease, then fit the boot over the outboard joint.
17. Install the large boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
18. Reinstall the driveshaft assembly into the car. Refer to Section 16 of the appropriate service
manual.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Constant Velocity Joint: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns
Constant Velocity Joint: All Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed
Turns
91-029
January 26, 1999
Applies To: ALL 1988 and later Models*
Clicking Noise While Turning (Supersedes 91-029, dated April 17, 1992)
Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars.
SYMPTOM
A clicking noise is heard while making right or left turns at 10 mph or less.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Worn outboard driveshaft joint.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the noisy outboard driveshaft joint.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Defect code: 042
Contention code: B07
Failed part: Use the replacement Part Number
Skill level: Repair Technician
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS
DIAGNOSIS
(Driving method)
1. Drive the car in a circle in an open parking lot at approximately 10 mph with the brakes slightly
applied.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Constant Velocity Joint: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 6277
2. Have an assistant stand in the center of the circle and listen for the clicking noise.
3. Drive the car in the opposite direction. The assistant should be able to tell which axle is making
the noise.
DIAGNOSIS
(On-hoist method)
1. Raise the car on a hoist and start the engine.
2. With the transmission in first gear (manual transmission) or D4 (automatic transmission),
increase the engine speed to 2,000 rpm.
3. Apply the brakes to load the engine speed to 1,500 rpm while maintaining the same throttle
position.
4. Turn the wheels slowly to full left and full right positions. Have an assistant listen to determine
which axle is making the noise.
NOTE:
A driveshaft with a light degree of noise may not be detected by this on-hoist method.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the driveshaft as described in Section 16 of the appropriate service manual.
2. Use diagonal cutters to cut the two boot bands and the outboard joint boot, then remove them
from the driveshaft.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the outboard joint. Measure and record distance "A" (from the
splined end of the driveshaft to the inner race) as a reference for reassembly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Constant Velocity Joint: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 6278
4. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise.
5. *Remove the outboard joint using the threaded adapter (see REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS) and
a commercially available 5/8" x 18 slide hammer.*
6. Remove and discard the "C" clip from the driveshaft. Clean and inspect the driveshaft splines
and ring groove for burrs or other defects.
7. Install the new outboard joint boot provided in the kit. Slide it slowly onto the driveshaft to avoid
damaging the boot.
8. Install the new "C" clip onto the ring groove of the driveshaft.
9. Insert the driveshaft in the new outboard joint. Make sure the "C" clip is centered on the shaft
and is resting against the chamfered edge of the inner race.
10. Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Constant Velocity Joint: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 6279
11. To drive the outboard joint on the rest of the way, pick up the assembly and let it fall from about
10 cm (4 to 5 in.) onto a hard surface.
NOTICE
Do not use a hammer; excessive force may damage the driveshaft.
12. Measure distance "A" (from the splines to the inner race of the joint). If the distance is more
than your measurement in Step 3, repeat Step 11.
13. When distance "A" equals your measurement in Step 3, the "C" clip should be seated in the
joint. Tap on the inner race with a plastic hammer to make sure the joint does not move on the
driveshaft.
14. Fit the small end of the boot into the boot groove on the driveshaft.
15. Install the small boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
16. Pack the outboard boot with the grease included in the kit. Pack the outboard joint with the
remaining grease, then fit the boot over the outboard joint.
17. Install the large boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
18. Reinstall the driveshaft assembly into the car. Refer to Section 16 of the appropriate service
manual.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6280
Constant Velocity Joint: Service and Repair
Fig. 1 Front Drive Assembly
NOTE: Prior to disassemble, mark rollers and roller grooves. Refer to Fig. 1 for driveshaft service.
1. Remove set ring from inboard joint. 2. Remove boot band by prying up locking tabs with
screwdriver and raising end of band. 3. Remove inboard joint, then remove rollers from spider. 4.
Remove circlip, then the spider from shaft using suitable bearing remover. 5. Remove stopper ring.
6. Wrap splines on driveshaft with vinyl tape to prevent damaging boots and dynamic damper, then
remove boot band and inboard boot. 7. Remove dynamic damper band and dynamic damper. 8.
Remove boot bands and outboard boot, then the vinyl tape. 9. Reverse procedure to install, noting
the following:
a. Pack inboard and outboard joints with molybdenum disulfide grease. b. Install rollers on spider
shafts, then slide spider assembly into inboard shaft joint. Avoid getting grease on rubber parts. c.
Position boots and install small end bands, then expand and compress boots until they return to
their normal shape and length. d. Install large end bands.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot
Band/Installation
Constant Velocity Joint Boot: Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot
Band/Installation
98-018
July 22, 2003
Applies To: ALL Models
Driveshaft Boot Band Tool
(Supersedes 98-018, Boot Band Tool, dated April 14, 1998)
Updated information is shown by asterisks.
The replacement boot bands for the driveshaft CV joint boots have changed. The replacement
bands are a double loop type that require a special tool for proper installation.
* TOOL INFORMATION
Boot Band Tool: T/N KD-3191
This tool is already at your dealership. To order additional tools, call the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program at 1-888-424-6857. Phone lines are open Monday through Friday from 7:30
a.m. to 7:00 p.m. CT.*
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the old boot band(s). Take care not to damage the boot.
2. Remove and inspect the boot. Replace the boot if it is worn or damaged.
3. Install the boot, and fill it with the specified amount and type of grease. Refer to section 16 of the
appropriate service manual for the grease amount and type.
4. Adjust the driveshaft to the proper length. Refer to section 16 of the appropriate service manual.
5. Install the replacement boot band onto the large end of the boot with the end of the band facing
toward the front of the vehicle.
6. Take up the slack in the boot band by hand, and hold the boot band in place.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot
Band/Installation > Page 6285
7. Measure and mark the band with a felt-tip pen at the specified distance from the clip:
^ If you are installing a new boot, mark the band approximately 10 to 14 mm (0.4 to 0.6 in.) from
the clip.
^ If you are reinstalling the original boot, mark the band 10 mm (0.4 in.) from the clip.
8. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the boot band tool and into the slot
on the winding mandrel.
9. Take up the slack in the boot band by hand, then slowly turn the winding mandrel with a wrench.
Tighten the band until the mark you made in step 7 meets the edge of the clip.
10. Raise up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees, then center-punch
the clip to hold the band temporarily.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint Boot > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot
Band/Installation > Page 6286
11. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess 5 to 10 mm (0.2 to 0.4 in.) from the clip.
12. Secure the end of the boot band by tapping it down over the clip with a hammer.
13. Make sure that the boot band and clip do not interfere with anything and that the band does not
move.
14. If necessary, repeat steps 5 through 13 to install the boot band on the small end of the boot.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Adjustments
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
Wheel bearings and hub on these models are an integral assembly and bearings cannot be
adjusted. If hub endplay exceeds 0.002 inch with spindle nut properly tightened, hub and bearing
assembly should be replaced.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Raise spindle nut locking tab,
then remove spindle nut. 3. Remove brake hose bracket mounting bolts. 4. Remove caliper and
position aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose. 5. Remove brake disc
attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching screw holes to push disc
from hub. When tightening
screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent excessively cocking the brake disc.
6. Remove brake disc from knuckle. 7. Remove speed sensor wire bracket, then the speed sensor
from knuckle. 8. Remove tie rod end cotter pin and nut. 9. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod
end remover.
10. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way. 11. Using ball joint
remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent, separate ball joint and lower arm. 12. Remove
upper ball joint shield, then the cotter pin and nut. 13. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm
using suitable ball joint remover. 14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off
driveshaft. 15. Remove hub from steering knuckle using suitable press. 16. Remove knuckle ring,
circlip and splash guard from knuckle. 17. Press out wheel bearing from hub using driver tool No.
07749-0010000, attachment tool No. 07746-0010500 and base tool No. 07GAF-SE00401,
or equivalents.
18. Remove outboard bearing inner race from hub.
Fig. 4 Front Suspension
19. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Fig. 2 for tightening specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6292
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
Disc Brake Models
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove rear wheels. 2. Apply parking brake, then remove hub
cap. 3. Raise locking tab on spindle nut, then remove nut. 4. Remove 6 mm brake disc retaining
screw, then the caliper shield. 5. Remove brake hose mounting bolts, then the caliper bracket
mounting bolts. 6. Remove caliper and hang from undercarriage with short piece of wire. Do not
hang caliper by brake hose. 7. Screw two 12 mm bolts into disc to push disc off of hub. Remove
disc. 8. Remove hub unit from knuckle. 9. Reverse procedure to install.
Drum Brake Models
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove wheel and brake drum. 2. Remove grease cap,
spindle nut and washer. 3. Remove hub and bearing unit from spindle. 4. Reverse procedure to
install. Tighten spindle nut to specifications, then stake shoulder of nut into groove in spindle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut >
Component Information > Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Spindle Nut ......................................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 134
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Specifications
Flex Plate: Specifications
For the Specifications for Flex Plate, go to Engine/Specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flywheel > Component Information > Specifications
Flywheel: Specifications
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flywheel > Component Information > Specifications > Page
6303
Flywheel: Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect the ring gear teeth for wear and damage. 2. Inspect the clutch disc mating surface on the
flywheel for wear, cracks, and burning.
3. Measure the flywheel runout using a dial indicator through at least two full turns. Push against
the flywheel each time you turn it to take up the
crankshaft thrust washer clearance.
NOTE: The runout can be measured with engine installed. Standard (New): 0.05 mm (0.002 inch)
max. Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the
flywheel.
4. Turn the inner race of the ball bearing with your finger. The bail bearing should turn smoothly
and quietly. Check that the ball bearing outer race
fits tightly in the flywheel. If the inner race does not turn smoothly, quietly, or fit tight in the flywheel,
replace the ball bearing.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Bell Housing, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Bell Housing: Service and Repair
Mainshaft
1. Remove the ball bearing using the special tools.
2. Remove the oil seal from the clutch housing.
3. Drive the new oil seal into the clutch housing using the special tools as shown.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Bell Housing, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6308
4. Drive the ball bearing with the shielded side down into the clutch housing using the special tools
as shown.
Countershaft
1. Remove the needle bearing using the special tools. then remove the oil guide plate.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Bell Housing, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6309
2. Install the oil guide plate, then drive the needle bearing into the clutch housing using the special
tools as shown.
NOTE: Position the needle bearing with the oil hole facing up.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Case, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Case: Service and Repair
NOTE: Place the clutch housing on two pieces of wood thick enough to keep the mainshaft from
the hitting the workbench.
1. Remove the back-up light switch. 2. Remove the transmission hanger B. 3. Loosen the
transmission housing attaching bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove them.
4. Remove the 32 mm sealing bolt. 5. Expand the snap ring on the countershaft ball bearing and
remove it from the groove using a pair of snap ring plier.
6. Separate the transmission housing from the clutch housing and wipe it clean of the sealant.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Case, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6313
7. Remove the thrust shim and oil guide plate from the transmission housing.
8. Remove the 10 mm sealing bolt and oil gutter plate.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Countershaft, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Index
Countershaft: Service and Repair Index
NOTE: The 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears are installed with a press.
Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry them and apply lubricant to any contact
surfaces. The 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears, however, should be installed with a press before lubricating
them.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Countershaft, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6318
Countershaft: Service and Repair Clearance Inspection
NOTE: If replacement is required, always replace the synchro sleeve set.
1. Measure the clearance between the countershaft and 1st gear.
Standard: 0.03-0.10 mm (0.001-0.004 in) Service Limit: 0.22 mm (0.009 in)
2. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the thickness of 1st gear.
If the thickness of 1st gear is less than the service limit, replace 1st gear with a new one. If the
thickness of 1st gear is within the service limit, replace the 1st/2nd synchro hub with a new one.
3. Measure the clearance between 2nd and 3rd gears.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Countershaft, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6319
4. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the thickness of the spacer collar.
5. If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace the spacer collar with a new one.
If the thickness is within the service limit, measure the thickness of 2nd gear. If the thickness of 2nd
gear is less than the service limit, replace 2nd gear with a new one. If the thickness of 2nd gear is
within the service limit, replace the spacer collar with a new one.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Countershaft, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6320
Countershaft: Service and Repair Disassembly
CAUTION: Remove the gears using a press and steel blocks as shown. Use of a jaw-type puller
can damage the gear teeth.
1. Securely clamp the countershaft assembly in a bench vise with wood blocks. 2. Raise the
locknut tab from the groove of the countershaft, then remove the locknut and the spring washer.
3. Remove the bearings using a bearing puller as shown.
4. Support 4th gear on steel blocks as shown and press the countershaft out of 5th and 4th gears.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Countershaft, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6321
5. Support 1st gear on steel blocks as shown and press the countershaft out of 3rd gear.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Countershaft, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6322
Countershaft: Service and Repair Inspection
1. Inspect the gear surfaces and bearing surfaces for wear and damage, then measure the
countershaft at points A, B, and C.
If any part of the countershaft is less than the service limit, replace it with a new one.
2. Inspect for runout.
If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the countershaft with a new one.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Countershaft, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6323
Countershaft: Service and Repair Reassembly
CAUTION:
- Press the 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears on the countershaft without lubrication.
- When installing the 3rd. 4th, and 5th gears, support the shaft on steel blocks and install the gears
using a press.
1. Install the needle bearing on the countershaft.
2. Assemble the parts as shown in image.
NOTE: Check that the fingers of the friction damper are securely set in the grooves of the 1st/2nd
synchro hub.
3. Install the parts on the countershaft.
4. Support the countershaft on a steel block as shown and install 3rd gear using the special tools
and a press as shown.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Countershaft, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6324
5. Install 4th gear using the special tools and a press as shown.
6. Install 5th gear using the special tools and a press as shown.
7. Install the bearings using the special tools and a press as shown. 8. Securely clamp the
countershaft assembly in a bench vise with wood blocks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Countershaft, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6325
9. Install the spring washer, tighten the locknut, then stake the locknut tab into groove.
LOCKNUT 110 -> 0 -> 110 N.m (11.0 -> 0 -> 11.0 kg-m, 80 -> 0 ->80 lb-ft)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Differential, Manual
Transaxle > Ring Gear, M/T > Component Information > Specifications
Ring Gear: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Bolts .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 101 Nm (74.5 ft. lbs.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications
TYPE 1992-95 .....................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. SG
TYPE 1996 ..........................................................................................................................................
........................................................................... GLS
Above 20°F (-7°C), 1992 .....................................................................................................................
.............................................................................. 30 Above 0°F (-18°C), 1992 .................................
.........................................................................................................................................................
20W-40 All temperatures .....................................................................................................................
................................................................ 10W-30*, 10W-40* * Preferred
CAPACITY, Refill:
Accord .................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1.9 liters 4.0 pints
Civic, Del Sol .......................................................................................................................................
........................................... 1.8 liters 3.8 pints
VTEC 1992-95......................................................................................................................................
..................................... 2.2 liters 4.6 pints
Prelude ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1.9 liters 4.0 pints
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 6334
Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications
KEY TO LUBRICATION ABBREVIATIONS
NOTE: Some manufacturer lubricant names may differ from the following list. If the manufacturer
does not recommend a specific lubricant, use the following.
AF
Dexron(r)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid
AP ATF-PLUS(r) Automatic Transmission Fluid
BJ Suspension Lubricant
BL Brake Lubricant
CC Motor Oil, API Service CC
CD Motor Oil, API Service CD
CE Motor Oil, API Service CE
CF-4 Motor Oil, API Service CF-4
DC Distributor Cam Lubricant
EC Ethylene Glycol Coolant
EP Extreme Pressure Gear Oil
FA Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type F
GC
Wheel Bearing Grease, NLGI Classification GC
GF-1 Motor Oil, API Service GF-1 (Starburst)
GL-1 Gear Oil, API Service GL-1
GL-4 Gear Oil, API Service GL-4
GL-5 Gear Oil, API Service GL-5
GL-5* GL-5 Gear Oil for Limited Slip Differentials
GLS Gear Lubricant, Special
HB Hydraulic Brake Fluid, SAE J1703, DOT-3 or 4
HBH Hydraulic Brake Fluid, Extra Heavy Duty
HG High Temperature Grease
HP Hypoid Gear Oil
HP* Hypoid Gear Oil for Limited Slip or Traction-Lok Differentials
LB Chassis Grease, NLGI Classification LB
LL
Steering Linkage Lubricant
LM Lithium Multipurpose Grease
MA Mercon(r) Automatic Transmission Fluid
MH Manifold Heat Riser Solvent
MO Motor Oil, Any API Service Classification
PC Carburetor Cleaner
PS Power Steering Fluid
SF Motor Oil, API service SF
SG Motor Oil, API service SG
SH Motor Oil, API service SH
SLF Special Lubricant - Fluid
SLS Special Lubricant - Spray
WB
Wheel Bearing Grease
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6335
Fluid - M/T: Service and Repair
NOTE: Check the oil with the engine OFF, and the car on level ground.
1. Remove the oil filler plug, then check the level and condition of the oil. 2. The oil level must be
up to the filler hole. If it is below the hole, add oil until it runs out, then reinstall the oil filler plug. 3. If
the transmission oil is dirty, remove the drain plug and drain the oil. 4. Reinstall the drain plug with
a new washer, and refill the transmission oil to the proper level.
NOTE: The drain plug washer should be replaced at every oil change.
5. Reinstall the oil filler plug with a new washer.
Oil Capacity 1.8l (1.9 US qt, 1.6 Imp qt) at oil change. 1.9l (2.0 US qt, 1.7 Imp qt) at overhaul.
Use only SAE 1OW-30 or 1OW-40, SF or SG grade.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Gear, M/T > Synchronizer
Hub, M/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Synchronizer Hub: Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect gear teeth on all synchro hubs and synchro sleeves for rounded off corners, which
indicate wear. 2. Install each synchro hub in its mating synchro sleeve and check for freedom of
movement.
NOTE: If replacement is required, always replace the synchro sleeve and synchro hub as a set.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Gear, M/T > Synchronizer
Hub, M/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6340
Synchronizer Hub: Service and Repair
Each synchro sleeve has three sets of longer teeth (120 degrees apart) that must be matched with
the three sets of deeper grooves in the synchro hub when assembled.
NOTE: Installing the synchro sleeve with its longer teeth in the synchro hub slots will damage the
spring ring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Gear, M/T > Synchronizer
Ring, M/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Inspection
Mainshaft: Testing and Inspection Inspection
1. Inspect the gear surface and bearing surface for wear and damage, then measure the mainshaft
at points A, B, C, and D.
If any part of the mainshaft is less than the service limit, replace it with a new one.
2. Inspect for runout.
If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the mainshaft with a new one.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Inspection > Page 6348
Mainshaft: Testing and Inspection Clearance Inspection
NOTE: If replacement is required, always replace the synchro sleeve set.
1. Measure the clearance between 2nd and 3rd gears.
2. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the thickness of 3rd gear.
If the thickness of 3rd gear is less than the service limit, replace 3rd gear with a new one. If the
thickness of 3rd gear is within the service limit, replace the 3rd/4th synchro hub with a new one.
3. Measure the clearance between 4th gear and the spacer collar.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Inspection > Page 6349
4. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure distance (A) on the spacer collar.
5. If distance (A) is less than the service limit, replace the spacer collar with a new one.
If distance (A) is within the service limit, measure the thickness of 4th gear. If the thickness of 4th
gear is less than the service limit, replace 4th gear with a new one. If the thickness of 4th gear is
within the service limit, replace the 3rd/4th synchro hub with a new one.
6. Measure the clearance between the spacer collar and 5th gear.
7. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure distance (B) on the spacer collar.
8. If distance (A) is less than service limit, replace the spacer collar with a new one.
If distance (B) is within the service limit, measure thickness of 5th gear. If the thickness of 5th gear
is less than the service limit, replace 5th gear with a new one. If the thickness of 5th gear is within
the service limit, replace the 5th synchro hub with a new one.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6350
Mainshaft: Adjustments
1. Remove the thrust shim and oil guide plate from the transmission housing.
2. Install the 3rd/4th synchro hub, spacer collar, 5th synchro hub, ball bearing, and thrust washer
on the mainshaft. Install the assembly in the
transmission
3. Measure the distance (B) between the end of the transmission housing and thrust washer.
NOTE: -
Use a straight edge and feeler gauge.
- Measure at three locations and average the readings.
4. Measure the distance (C) between the surfaces of the clutch housing and bearing inner race.
NOTE: Use a straight edge and feeler gauge.
- Measure at three locations and average the readings
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6351
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6352
5. Select the proper thrust shim on the basis of the following calculations:
NOTE: Do not use more than two thrust shims.
(Basic Formula) (B) + (C) - 0.95 = thrust shim thickness
Example of calculation: Distance (B)(2.00 mm) + Distance (C)(0.09 mm) = 2.09 mm subtract the
spring washer height (0.95 mm) = the required thrust shim (1.14 mm)
6. Install the oil guide plate and thrust shim selected in the transmission housing.
NOTE: Clean the thrust washer, spring washer and thrust shim thoroughly before installation.
- Install the thrust washer, spring washer and thrust shim properly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6353
7. Install the thrust washer and spring washer in the 8. Install the mainshaft in the clutch housing. 9.
Place the transmission housing over the mainshaft and onto the clutch housing.
10. Tighten the clutch and transmission housings with several 8 mm bolts. 11. Tap the mainshaft
with a plastic hammer. 12. Check the thrust clearance in the manner described below.
NOTE: Measurement should be made at room temperature.
a. Slide the mainshaft base and the collar over the mainshaft.
b. Attach the mainshaft holder to the mainshaft as follows:
- Back-out the mainshaft holder bolt and loosen the two hex bolts.
- Fit the holder over the mainshaft so its lip is towards the transmission.
- Align the mainshaft holder's lip around the groove at the inside of the mainshaft splines, then
tighten the hex bolts.
c. Seat the mainshaft fully by tapping its end with a plastic hammer. d. Thread the mainshaft holder
bolt in until it just contacts the wide surface of the mainshaft base.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6354
e. Zero a dial gauge on the end of the mainshaft. f.
Turn the mainshaft holder bolt clockwise; stop turning when the dial gauge has reached its
maximum movement. The reading on the dial gauge is the amount of mainshaft end play.
CAUTION: Turning the mainshaft holder bolt more than 60 degrees after the needle of the dial
gauge stops moving may damage the transmission.
g. If the reading is within the standard, the clearance is correct.
If the reading is not within the standard, recheck the thrust shim thickness.
Standard: 0.11-0.18 mm (0.004-0.007 in)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Index
Mainshaft: Service and Repair Index
NOTE: The 3rd/4th and 5th synchro hubs are installed with a press.
Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry them and apply lubricant to any contact
surfaces. The 3rd/4th and 5th synchro hubs, however, should be installed with a press before
lubricating them.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6357
Mainshaft: Service and Repair Disassembly
1. Remove the ball bearing using a bearing puller as shown.
CAUTION: Remove the synchro hubs using a press and steel blocks as shown. Use of a jaw-type
puller can cause damage to the gear teeth.
2. Support 4th gear on steel blocks as shown and press the mainshaft out of the 5th synchro hub.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6358
3. Support the 3rd gear on steel blocks as shown and press the mainshaft out of the 3rd/4th
synchro hub.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6359
Mainshaft: Service and Repair Reassembly
NOTE: When installing the 3rd/4th and 5th synchro hubs, support the shaft on the steel blocks and install
synchro hubs using a press.
1. Support 2nd gear on steel blocks as shown, then install the 3rd/4th synchro hub using the
special tools and a press as shown.
2. Install the 3rd/4th synchro sleeve by align the stoppers of the 3rd/4th synchro sleeve and hub.
NOTE: After installing, inspect the operation of the 3rd/4th synchro hub set.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Mainshaft, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Index > Page 6360
3. Install the 5th synchro hub using the special tools and a press as shown.
4. Install the ball bearing using the special tools and a press as shown.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Reverse Idler Gear >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Reverse Idler Gear: Service and Repair
1. Remove the reverse shift holder.
2. Remove the reverse idler gear shaft and reverse idler gear.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Fork, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Reverse Shift Fork
Shift Fork: Testing and Inspection Reverse Shift Fork
1. Measure the clearance between the reverse shift fork and shift piece pin.
Standard: 0.05-0.35 mm (0.002-0.014 in) Service Limit: 0.5 mm (0.02 in)
2. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the width of the groove in the reverse shift
fork.
If the width of the groove exceeds the standard, replace the reverse shift holder with a new one. If
the width of the groove is within the standard, replace the 5th/reverse shift piece with a new one.
3. Measure the clearance between the reverse idler gear and reverse shift fork.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Fork, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Reverse Shift Fork > Page 6368
4. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the width of the reverse shift fork.
If the width exceeds the standard, replace the reverse shift holder with a new one. If the width is
within the standard, replace the reverse idler gear with a new one.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Fork, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Reverse Shift Fork > Page 6369
Shift Fork: Testing and Inspection Shift Fork Assembly
1. Measure the clearance between each shift fork and its matching synchro sleeve.
2. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the thickness of the shift fork fingers. 3. If the
thickness of the shift fork fingers is less than the standard, replace the shift fork with a new one. If
the thickness of the shift fork fingers is
within the standard, replace the synchro sleeve with a new one.
NOTE: The synchro sleeve and synchro hub should be replaced as a set.
4. Measure the clearance between the 3rd/4th shift fork and shift arm B.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Fork, M/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Reverse Shift Fork > Page 6370
5. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the width of the shift arm B. 6. If the width of
the shift arm B is less than the service limit, replace the shift arm B with a new one. If the width of
the shift arm B is within the
service limit, replace the 3rd/4th shift fork with a new one.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Fork, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Mainshaft/Countershaft/Shift Fork
Shift Fork: Service and Repair Mainshaft/Countershaft/Shift Fork
1. Remove the interlock guide bolt from under the clutch housing 2. Remove the shift arm B
attaching bolt.
3. Remove the mainshaft and countershaft assemblies with the shift fork from the clutch housing.
NOTE: Before removing the mainshaft and countershaft assemblies, tape the mainshaft spline to
protect it.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Fork, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Mainshaft/Countershaft/Shift Fork > Page 6373
Shift Fork: Service and Repair Shift Fork Assembly
NOTE:
- When disassembling, pay attention to the steel balls as the springs may force them out.
- When assembling, install the shift fork shaft with its detents facing the hole where the balls are
inserted.
- The steel balls are all of the same size (5/16 in).
Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry them and apply lubricant to any contact
parts.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Fork, M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Mainshaft/Countershaft/Shift Fork > Page 6374
Shift Fork: Service and Repair Shift Rod
NOTE: The steel balls are all of the same size (5/16 in).
1. Remove the differential assembly. 2. Remove the 28 mm plug bolt and 1st/2nd select spring. 3.
Remove the shift arm C attaching bolt. 4. Remove the shift arm shaft.
NOTE: Be careful not to lose the steel ball.
5. Remove the steel ball, spring, and collar. 6. Remove shift arms C and B, and the interlock, then
remove the reverse select spring and reverse select retainer. 7. Remove the shift arm A attaching
bolt, the set ball spring bolt, spring, and steel ball. 8. Remove the shift rod, then remove the shift
arm A. 9. Remove the reverse lock cam.
10. Remove the magnet.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter M/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Shifter M/T: Service and Repair
NOTE: Inspect rubber parts for wear and damage when disassembling, replace any worn or damaged
parts.
- Install the clip as shown.
- Turn the boot so the hole is facing down.
- Make sure the boot is installed on the shift rod.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Overhaul
Shift Linkage: Service and Repair Overhaul
NOTE: Inspect rubber parts for wear and damage when disassembling, replace any worn or damaged
parts.
- Install the clip as shown.
- Turn the boot so the hole is facing down.
- Make sure the boot is installed on the shift rod.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, M/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Overhaul > Page 6382
Shift Linkage: Service and Repair Back-Up Light Switch
NOTE: Check the switch.
1. Disconnect the connector, then remove the back-up light switch connector from the connector
clamp. 2. Remove the back-up light switch. 3. Install the new washer and back-up light switch.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays
and Modules - A/T > Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Control Module: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Shift Interlock Switch > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information >
Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6396
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6397
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6398
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6405
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
Fig. 13 Shift Lock Solenoid Test Terminal
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6406
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
Fig. 16 Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Specifications
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
............................... 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6410
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6411
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Lock-up control solenoid valves A and B must be removed/replaced as an assembly.
1. Disconnect the connector from the lock-up control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No. 1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the lock-up control
solenoid valve connector and body ground, and
between the No. 2 terminal (solenoid valve B) and body ground.
Standard: 14.1 - 15.5 Ohms at 25°C (77°F)
3. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4.
Connect the No. 1 terminal of the lock-up control solenoid valve connector to the battery positive
terminal and body ground. A clicking sound
should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal and body ground. A
clicking sound should be heard.
5. If there is no clicking, check for continuity between the engine control module (ECM) A19 or A17
harness and body ground using the Test
Harness: O7LAJ - PT3O1OA.
NOTE: Always use the Test Harness (O7LAJ PT3O1OA) for checking.
6. Replace the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly if there is continuity between the ECM A19
or A17 harness and body ground.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6412
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt, and replace as an
assembly, if necessary.
3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control solenoid valve assembly and
install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it securely.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information >
Locations
Shift Interlock Control Module: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Shift Interlock Switch > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations
A/T Gear Position Signal: Locations
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6426
A/T Gear Position Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Transmission is in Neutral or Park
position.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6427
A/T Gear Position Signal: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > A/T Gear Position Signal <--> [Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6428
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Light >
Component Information > Description and Operation
ABS Light: Description and Operation
ABS Indicator Light:
The ABS indicator light comes on for three seconds and then goes off when the control unit detects
no problem during the initial diagnosis right after the engine starts.
However, the ABS indicator light can stay on for up to 40 seconds when the control unit starts to
check for pump overrun, etc. during the initial diagnosis.
The ABS indicator light comes on, and the ABS control unit memorizes the diagnostic trouble code
(DTC) under certain conditions.
- The parking brake is applied for more than 30 seconds while the vehicle is being driven. (DTC
2-1)
- The transmission downshifted excessively. (DTC 4-1, 4-2)
- The vehicle loses traction, and the front wheels spin for more than one minute when starting from
a stuck condition in mud, snow, or sandy road. (DTC 4-8)
- The tires adhesion is lost due to excessive cornering speed. (DTC 5, 5-4, 5-8)
- The vehicle is driven on an extremely rough road. (DTC 8-1)
- The vehicle is interfered by strong radio waves (noise), for example, illegal radio, etc. (DTC 8-2)
NOTE: If there is any trouble in the system, the ABS indicator light turns on during driving.
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC):
- When the control unit detects a problem and the ABS indicator light comes on, the control unit
memorizes the DTC.
- The control unit has three memory registers. When a problem occurs, the control unit stores the
DTC in the first memory register. If another problem occurs, or the same problem occurs again, the
control unit moves the first DTC to the next memory register, and stores the second DTC in the first
register. If there's a third problem occurrence, the two existing DTCs are moved up one register,
and the third DTC is stored in the first register. If problems continue to occur, the oldest problem is
moved out of the last register and lost, and the most recent problem is stored in the first register.
When the same problem occurs three times, the same DTC is stored in all memory registers.
(Refer to the Symptom-to- System Chart for diagnostic period.)
- The most recent DTC is indicated first, and the oldest DTC is indicated last.
- The DTCs are erased from the control unit when the ABS control unit +B2 power supply or
connector is disconnected.
- The control unit's memory can be erased by disconnecting the ABS B2 fuse for more than three
seconds.
Self-diagnosis:
- There are three self-diagnoses described below.
1. Initial diagnosis: Performed right after the engine starts until the ABS indicator light goes off. 2
Regular diagnosis: Continuously performed (under some conditions) after the ABS indicator light
goes off until the engine stops.
3. Individual part/system diagnosis: Diagnosis about a specific part/system under its operating
conditions.
- The CPU (central processing unit) controls the following when it detects a problem during
self-diagnosis:
1. Turns the ABS indicator light ON. 2. Turns the front and rear fail-safe relays off. 3. Stops the
ABS control. 4. Stops the ABS pump. (The pump may work under some conditions.) 5. After the
DTC is stored in the control unit, the CPU stops self-diagnosis.
Kickback and Pump Operation:
- When the engine is started, the ABS control unit begins the initial diagnosis and operates the
solenoid valve one time. The kickback may be felt when the brake pedal is depressed.
- When the ABS control unit detects the pressure switch OFF signal during the initial diagnosis, it
operates the pump motor, and performs the pump motor over-run diagnosis and pump motor
diagnosis. Therefore, there are two cases where the pump motor operates or does not operate
after the engine is started.
- Normally, after the initial diagnosis, the pump motor operates based on the pressure switch
signal, regardless of the vehicle speed.
Troubleshooting:
- When two or three DTCs are stored in the control unit, perform troubleshooting for the DTC that
appears first.
- When a customer's reported problem cannot be verified on the car, ask the customer about the
conditions when the ABS indicator light came ON, and test drive the car under those conditions, if
possible. When the ABS indicator light does not come ON during the test, check for loose terminals
and check by shaking the harnesses and connectors while following the flowchart.
- The connector terminal numbers are viewed from the wire side for the female terminals, and from
the terminal side for the male terminals.
- After the repair finished off, test drive the car and check the ABS indicator light does not come ON
again during the test. (Refer to the Symptom-to-System Chart for diagnostic period.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Light >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 6434
ABS Light: Service and Repair
ABS LAMP RESET PROCEDURE
^ If all repairs have been completed, disconnect the ABS B2 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood
fuse/relay box for at least three (3) seconds to erase the ABS control unit's memory.
NOTE: The ABS control unit's memory will be erased if the connector is disconnected from the
ABS control unit or the ABS control unit is removed from the body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Main Relay >
Component Information > Locations
ABS Main Relay: Locations
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Accumulator > Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Fluid Accumulator: Description and Operation
The accumulator is a pneumatic type which accumulates high pressure brake fluid fed from the
pump incorporated in the power unit. When the anti-lock brake system operates, the accumulator
feeds high pressure brake fluid to the modulator valve via the inlet side of the solenoid valve.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Accumulator > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation
Brake Fluid Accumulator: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
Fig. 95 Accumulator Replacement
Refer to Fig. 95 when replacing accumulator.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Accumulator > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation > Page 6443
Brake Fluid Accumulator: Service and Repair Disposal
WARNING: The accumulator contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do not puncture, expose to
flame or attempt to disassemble the accumulator
or it may explode.
Fig. 79 Relieving Nitrogen Gas From Accumulator For Disposal
1. Secure accumulator in a vise with relief plug pointing straight up, Fig. 84. 2. Slowly turn plug 3
1/2 turns and wait three minutes for all pressure to escape. 3. Remove plug completely and
dispose of accumulator unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Motor <-->
[Brake Fluid Pump] > Component Information > Locations
ABS Motor: Locations
Right Rear Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid Pump
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Brake Fluid Pump Relay: Locations
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Diagnostic
Connector - ABS > Component Information > Locations
Diagnostic Connector - ABS: Locations
Below Right Front Seat
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Electronic Brake Control Module: Locations
Right Side Of Trunk
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 6456
Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation
The main function section of the control unit performs calculations on the basis of the signals from
each speed sensor. It controls the operation of the anti-lock brake system by putting the solenoid
valves in the modulator unit into action for each front brake and for the two rear brakes. The
sub-function section gives driving signals to the pump motor and also gives self-diagnosis signals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 6457
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair
Fig. 90 Control Unit Replacement
Refer to Fig. 90 when replacing the control unit.
1. Remove right side trunk trim panel. 2. Disconnect control unit connectors. 3. Remove control unit
mounting bolts, then the control unit. When control unit mounting bolts are removed, the control
unit's memory is
cleared.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Fail Safe Relay,
ABS / Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Front
Fail Safe Relay: Locations Front
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Fail Safe Relay,
ABS / Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Front > Page 6462
Fail Safe Relay: Locations Rear
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Locations
Power Unit: Locations
Right Rear Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Brake Pressure
Modulator Valve
Power Unit: Description and Operation Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Modulators and solenoid valves are integrated in the modulator unit. The modulators for front and
rear brakes are of independent construction and are positioned vertically. The modulators for rear
brakes are provided with a proportioning control valve to prevent the rear wheels from locking when
the anti-lock brake system is malfunctioning or not activated.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Brake Pressure
Modulator Valve > Page 6468
Power Unit: Description and Operation Power Unit
The power unit consists of a motor and a plunger pump. Since an eccentric bearing is positioned
on the end of the motor shaft, the rotation of the motor provides the reciprocating motion of the
plunger. The brake fluid is thus pressurized and fed to the accumulator.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve
Power Unit: Service and Repair Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
CAUTION: Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact
the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve > Page 6471
Relieving Accumulator/Line Pressure
WARNING: Use the Bleeder T-wrench before disassembling the parts shaded in the illustration.
1. Open the hood. 2. Remove the red cap from the bleeder on the modulator body. 3. Install the
special tool on the maintenance bleeder and turn it out slowly 90°to collect high-pressure fluid into
the reservoir. Turn the special tool
out one complete turn to drain the brake fluid thoroughly.
4. Retighten the maintenance bleeder and discard the fluid. 5. Reinstall the red cap.
Reservoir Brake Fluid Draining
1. Draining brake fluid from modulator tank:
The brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of the modulator tank with a syringe. It may also
be drained through the pump joint after disconnecting the pump hose.
2. Draining brake fluid from master cylinder:
Loosen the bleed screw and pump the brake pedal to drain the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
WARNING: High-pressure fluid will squirt out if the shaded hose and pipe are removed.
- To drain high-pressure brake fluid, follow the procedure for releaving accumulator line pressure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve > Page 6472
Modulator/Pump
Removal/Installation
CAUTION:
- Be careful not to bend or damage the brake pipes when removing the modulator unit.
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.
- Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
- When connecting the brake pipes, make sure that there is no interference between the brake
pipes and other parts.
1. Remove the battery and battery tray. 2. Disconnect the solenoid, motor and pressure switch
connectors. 3. Disconnect the brake pipes from the modulator unit. 4. Remove the mounting bolts
and nut, then remove the modulator/ABS pump assembly from the frame. 5. Install the
modulator/ABS pump assembly in the reverse order of removal. 6. After installation, bleed the air
from the system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve > Page 6473
Modulator/Pump
Index/Torque Before removing the modulator-to-pump high-pressure line, be sure to relieve the
pressure fluid from the maintenance bleeder. Refer to Relieving Accumulator/Line Pressure above.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.
- Do net mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
- Do not try to disassemble the modulator unit and pump assembly. Replace the modulator unit as
an assembly if it is defective.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve > Page 6474
Solenoids
Leak Test
NOTE: If a solenoid leaks excessively, the brake fluid level in the modulator reservoir tank will rise
when operating the ABS motor. The modulator reservoir may also overflow.
1. Connect an ohmmeter between the YEL and YEL terminals of the pressure switch connector. 2.
Attach the positive (+) lead of a fully charged 12 V battery to the RED/WHT terminal of the motor
connector and negative (-) lead to the GRN
terminal, and install a switch between negative lead and GRN terminal as shown.
3. Turn the switch on to allow sufficient pressure to build up within the accumulator and check for
continuity. If the ohmmeter shows continuity
(pressure switch turned on), run the motor for 10 seconds more, then turn the switch off. Check if the solenoid hisses or squeaks. Replace the modulator unit if the solenoid hisses or
squeaks.
- Check the pressure switch for continuity within 30 minutes. It is normal if there is continuity. If
there is no continuity, a solenoid is faulty or there is a high-pressure line leak.
Accumulator
Replacement
- Before removing the modulator-to-accumulator high pressure line, be sure to relieve the pressure
fluid from the maintenance bleeder. Refer to Relieving Accumulator/Line Pressure above.
1. Loosen the flare nuts and remove the accumulator pipe
2. Remove the three mounting bolts and the accumulator from the modulator unit. 3. Install a new
accumulator in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve > Page 6475
4. Bleed the air from the high-pressure line. Refer to Air Bleeding with ALB Checker below.
Disposal
The accumulator contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do not puncture, expose to the flame, or
attempt to disassemble the accumulator or it may explode and severe personal injury may result. 1.
Secure the accumulator in a vise so that the relief plug points straight up. 2. Slowly turn the plug
three and a half turns and then wait three minutes for all pressure to escape.
3. Remove the plug completely and dispose of the accumulator.
Bleeding
Air Bleeding with ALB Checker
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
- Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
1. Place the vehicle on level ground with the wheels blocked. Put the transmission in neutral for
manual transmission models, and in (P) position for
automatic transmission models. Release the parking brake.
2. Disconnect the ABS inspection connector (6P) from the cross-member under the passenger's
seat and connect the ABS inspection connector (6P)
to the ALB checker.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve > Page 6476
3. Fill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap. 4. Start the engine
and allow it to idle for a few minutes, then stop it. Check the fluid level in the modulator reservoir
and refill to the MAX level line
if necessary.
5. Bleed high-pressure fluid from the maintenance bleeder with the special tool. 6. Refill the
modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap. 7. Turn the Mode Selector
switch of the checker to 2. 8. While depressing the brake pedal firmly, push the Start Test switch to
operate the modulator. There should be kickback on the brake pedal. If not,
repeat steps 5 to 8.
NOTE: Continue to depress the brake pedal firmly when operating the checker.
9. Turn the Mode Selector to 3, 4, and 5. Perform step 8 for each of the test mode positions.
10. Refill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap.
WARNING: Disconnect the ALB check before driving the car. A collision can result from a
reduction, or complete loss of braking ability causing severe personal injury or death.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Power Unit <-->
[Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve > Page 6477
Power Unit: Service and Repair Power Unit
Fig. 104 Power Unit Replacement
Refer to Fig. 104 when replacing power unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Front
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Front
Behind Left Front Wheel (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Front > Page 6482
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Rear
Behind Left Rear Wheel (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 6483
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
The speed sensor is a non-contact type which detects the rotating speeds of the wheel. It is
composed of a permanent magnet and coil. When the gear pulsers at each wheel turn, the
magnetic coil in the speed sensor alternates, generating voltages with frequency in proportion to
wheel rotating speed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Toothed Ring
Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Toothed Ring
INSPECTION OF THE TOOTHED RING
1. Check the front and rear pulser for chipped or damaged teeth.
2. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and pulser all the way around while rotating the
pulser.
Standard: 0.4 - 1.0 mm (0.02 - 0.04 inch)
NOTE: If the gap exceeds 1.0 mm (0.04 inch), the probability is a distorted suspension arm which
should be replaced.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Toothed Ring > Page 6486
Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Wheel Speed Sensor
TESTING THE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1. Check pulser for chipped or damaged teeth and replace as necessary.
Fig. 82 Measureing Front Speed Sensor Air Gap
2. Measure air gap between sensor and pulser all the way around while rotating driveshaft by hand,
Fig. 82. If gap exceeds its maximum specification
at any point, the knuckle is most likely distorted and should be replaced. Air gap should be
0.016-0.039 inches.
WHEEL SENSOR SIGNAL CONFIRMATION
1. With ignition switch off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
anti-lock brake checker tool Nos. 07HAJ-SG0010A or 07HAJ-SG0010B, or equivalents.
2. Raise and support vehicle so all four wheels are off ground. 3. Turn ignition switch to on position,
then turn mode selector switch on anti-lock brake checker to 0. 4. With transaxle in Neutral
position, rotate each wheel at least one revolution per second and confirm that its respective
monitor light on the checker
blinks as wheel is rotating. Rotating wheel too slowly will produce only weak blinks of monitor
lights. Perform tests in shaded area, as monitor lights may be difficult to see in bright sunlight. If the
front wheels won't spin fast enough to get monitor indication, start engine and slowly accelerate
and decelerate front wheels.
5. If any monitor light fails to blink, check the suspected sensor, its air gap, wiring and connectors.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Front
Fig. 108 Front Speed Sensor Replacement
Refer to Fig. 108 when replacing front speed sensor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6489
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Rear
Fig. 113 Rear Speed Sensor Replacement
Refer to Fig. 113 when replacing rear speed sensor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Bleeding
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair System Bleeding
Anti-Lock Brake System
Anti-Lock Brake Bleeding See: With Anti-Lock Brakes (Using ALB Checker)
With Anti-Lock Brakes (Using ALB Checker)
Park vehicle on level ground with wheels blocked. When bleeding brakes, put manual transaxle in
the Neutral position and automatic transaxle in the Park position.
1. With ignition switch Off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on the
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
anti-lock brake checker tool Nos. 07HAJ-SG0010A or 07HAJ-SG0010B, or equivalents.
2. Fill modulator reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 3. Start engine and allow it to idle
for a few minutes, then shut engine off. Check fluid in modulator reservoir and refill to MAX level if
necessary.
Fig. 86 Bleeding High Pressure Fluid At Maintenance Bleeder
4. Bleed high pressure fluid from maintenance bleeder with bleeder wrench tool No.
07HAA-SG00101, or equivalent, Fig. 86. 5. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and install
reservoir cap. 6. Turn mode selector switch on checker to 2. 7. While depressing brake pedal
firmly, push start test switch to operate modulator. There should be kickback on brake pedal. If
there is no kickback,
repeat bleeding sequence as outlined above.
8. Turn mode selector switch on checker to 3, 4 and 5. At each test mode position, refill modulator
reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 9. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and
install reservoir cap. Disconnect ALB checker before driving car. A collision can result from a
reduction, or complete loss of braking ability.
Without Anti-Lock Brakes
CAUTION:
- Always use Genuine Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause
corrosion and decrease the life of the system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Bleeding > Page 6494
- Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
- Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the
paint, wash it off immediately with water.
NOTE: The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of
the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required.
1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line. 2. Have someone
slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Bleeding > Page 6495
3. Loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed
screw securely.
Brake Bleeding Sequence
4. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown until air bubbles no longer appear
in the fluid. 5. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Bleeding > Page 6496
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair ABS Hydraulic Component Bleeding and Fluid Service
Relieving Accumulator/Line Pressure
WARNING: Use the Bleeder T-wrench before disassembling the parts shaded in the illustration
Collecting High-pressure Fluid Into Reservoir Through Maintenance Bleeder
- Open the hood.
- Remove the red cap from the bleeder on the modulator body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Bleeding > Page 6497
Fig. 81 Brake System Pressure Relief
- Install the special tool on the maintenance bleeder, and turn it out slowly 90° to collect
high-pressure fluid into the reservoir. Turn the special tool out one complete turn to drain the brake
fluid thoroughly.
- Retighten the maintenance bleeder, and discard the fluid.
- Reinstall the red cap.
Brake Fluid Change
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Bleeding > Page 6498
Fig. 85 Draining Brake Fluid Reservoir W/Syringe
1. Brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of modulator reservoir with a syringe. It may also
be drained through the pump joint after
disconnecting pump hose, Fig. 85.
2. Loosen master cylinder bleed screw and pump brake pedal to drain brake fluid from master
cylinder.
WARNING:
- High-pressure fluid will squirt out if the shaded hose and pipe are removed.
- To drain high-pressure brake fluid.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Specifications
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Banjo Bolt 25 ft.lb
Front Caliper Bleed Screw 6 ft.lb
Front Caliper Bolt (Bottom) 20 ft.lb
Front Caliper Bolt (Top) 25 ft.lb
Front Caliper Bracket Bolt 80 ft.lb
Parking Brake Nut 20 ft.lb
Rear Caliper Bleed Screw 7 ft.lb
Rear Caliper Bracket Bolt 28 ft.lb
Rear Caliper Mounting Bolt 17 ft.lb
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Front
Removal
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
Fig. 2 Front Pin Siding Disc Brake Caliper
1. Refer to Fig. 2 when replacing calipers. 2. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove wheel
and tire assemblies.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6505
Fig. 19 Brake Line Banjo Bolt
3. Remove banjo bolt and disconnect brake hose from caliper, Fig. 11. 4. Remove caliper bolts,
then the caliper.
Installation
1. Install caliper and caliper bolts. 2. Connect brake hose to caliper, then install banjo bolt. 2. Bleed
front brakes, then install wheel and tire assemblies.
Disassembly
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6506
Fig. 2 Front Pin Siding Disc Brake Caliper
1. Refer to Fig. 2 when overhauling calipers. 2. Remove caliper assembly from vehicle.
Fig. 12 Pad Spring
3. Remove pad spring from caliper body, if equipped, Fig. 12.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6507
Fig. 19 Brake Line Banjo Bolt
4. Place wooden block or shop rag in caliper opposite piston, then carefully remove piston from
caliper by applying air pressure through brake line
hole with OSHA-approved 30 psi nozzle, Fig. 11.
5. Remove boot clip, if equipped, then the piston boot and piston seal.
Assembly
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
1. Clean piston and caliper bore with brake fluid, then inspect for wear or damage. 2. Apply brake
cylinder grease to new piston seal and install seal in cylinder groove. 3. Install piston boot, then the
boot retaining clip. 4. Lubricate caliper cylinder and piston with brake fluid, then install piston in
cylinder with dished end facing in. 5. Install pad spring in caliper housing. 6. Install caliper
assembly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6508
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Rear
Disassembly
- WARNING: Never use an air hose or dry brush to clean brake assemblies.
- Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner to avoid breathing brake dust.
- Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air.
1. Remove the caliper shield.
2. Remove the lock pin and clevis pin. Remove the cable clip and disconnect the cable from the
parking brake arm.
3. Remove the banjo bolt and two sealing washers. 4. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and
caliper body from the bracket. 5. Remove the pad spring from the caliper body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6509
6. Remove the piston by rotating the piston counterclockwise with the special tool and remove the
piston boot.
CAUTION: Avoid damaging the piston.
7. Remove the piston seal.
CAUTION: Take care not to damage the cylinder bore.
8. Install the special tool between the caliper body and spring cover.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the inside of the caliper cylinder during caliper disassembly.
9. Position the locknuts as shown, then turn the shaft until the plate just contacts the caliper body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6510
NOTE: Do not compress the spring under the spring cover.
10. Turn the shaft clockwise 1/4-1/2 turn to compress the adjusting spring B in the caliper body.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the inner components, do not turn the shaft more than 1/2 turn.
10. Turn the shaft clockwise 1/4-1/2 turn to compress the adjusting spring B in the caliper body.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the inner components, do not turn the shaft more than 1/2 turn.
11. Lower the locknuts fully and tighten the locknuts securely.
NOTE: Keep the locknuts in this position until you reinstall the circlip.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6511
12. Remove the circlip with snap ring pliers.
13. Hold the plate with your fingers and turn the shaft counterclockwise. Remove the special tool
from the caliper. 14. Remove the adjusting bolt.
15. Remove the spring cover, adjusting spring B, spacer, bearing A and cup from the adjusting bolt.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6512
16. Remove the sleeve piston, and remove the pin from the cam. 17. Remove the return spring. 18.
Remove the parking lever and cam as an assembly from the caliper body.
CAUTION: Do not loosen the parking nut with the cam installed in the caliper body. If the lever and
shalt must be separated, hold the lever in a vise and loosen the parking nut.
19. Remove the cam boot.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6513
Reassembly
WARNING:
- Never use an air hose or dry brush to clean brake assemblies.
- Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner to avoid breathing brake dust.
- Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability.
- When reusing the pads, install them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint: if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passage with compressed air.
- Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.
- Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do so.
- Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
- Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
NOTE:
- Coat piston, piston seal, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
- Replace all rubber parts with new ones whenever disassembled.
1. Pack all cavities of the needle bearing with recommended grease. .
Coat the new cam boot with recommended grease and install it in the caliper body.
3. Apply recommended grease to the pin contacting area of the cam and install the cam and lever
assembly into the caliper body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6514
4. Install the return spring.
CAUTION:
- When the cam and lever were separated, be sure to assemble them before installing the cam in
the caliper body. Install the lever and spring washer apply locking agent to the threads, and tighten
the parking nut while holding the lever with a vise.
- Avoid damaging the cam boot since it must be installed before the cam.
- When installing the cam, do not allow the cam boot lips to turn outside in.
5. Install the pin in the cam. 6. Apply recommended grease to the new O-ring and install it on the
sleeve piston. 7. Install the sleeve piston so the hole in the bottom of the piston is aligned with the
pin in the cam and two pins on the piston are aligned with the
holes in the caliper.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6515
8. Coat a new cup with recommended grease, and install it with its groove facing the bearing A side
of the adjusting bolt. 9. Fit the bearing A, spacer, adjusting spring B and spring cover on the
adjusting bolt, and install them in the caliper cylinder.
10. Install the special tool on the spring cover and turn the shaft until the locknut contacts the plate
11. Check that the flared end of the spring cover is below the circlip groove.
12. Install the circlip in the groove, then remove the special tool.
NOTE: Check that the circlip is seated in the groove properly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6516
13. Coat a new piston seal with silicone grease and in stall it in the caliper. 14. Apply brake cylinder
grease (P/N: 08733-BO2OE) or equivalent rubber grease to the sealing lips and inside of a new
piston boot, and install it in
the caliper.
15. Coat the outside of the piston with brake fluid and install it on the adjusting bolt while rotating it
clockwise with the special tool.
16. Install the pad spring on the caliper. 17. Install the brake pad retainers and brake pads.
CAUTION: Avoid damaging the piston and piston boot.
18. Align the cutout in the piston with the tab on the inner pad.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 6517
19. Install the caliper on the caliper bracket and tighten the caliper mounting bolts. 20. Connect the
brake hose to the caliper with new sealing washers and tighten the banjo bolt.
21. Insert the cable through the arm and connect the cable to the lever with the clevis pin and lock
pin. Install the cable clip securely. 22. Fill the brake reservoir up and bleed the brake system. 23.
Operate the brake pedal several times, then adjust the parking brake. 24. After installation, perform
the following checks.
- Check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary.
- Check the parking brake lever for operation and adjust if necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Brake Pad: Service and Repair
WARNING:
^ Never use an air hose or dry brush to clean brake assemblies.
^ Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner, to avoid breathing brake dust.
1. Block the front wheels, loosen the rear wheel lug. nuts slightly, support the rear of car on safety
stands, then remove the rear wheels. Release the
parking brake.
Caliper Shield Removal
2. Remove the caliper shield.
Caliper Removal
3. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper from the bracket.
CAUTION:
^ Thoroughly clean the outside of the caliper to prevent dust and dirt from entering inside.
^ Support the caliper with a piece of wire so that it does not hang from the brake hose.
4. Remove the pad shims, pads and pad retainers. 5. Using vernier calipers, measure the
thickness of each brake pad lining. If lining thickness is less than service limit, replace the rear
pads as a set.
NOTE: Measurement does not include pad backing plate thickness.
Brake Pad Thickness: Accord/Prelude
Standard: 0.35 in (9.0 mm) Service Limit: 0.06 in (1.6 mm)
Brake Pad Thickness: Civic/Del Sol
Standard: 0.30 in (7.5 mm) Service Limit: 0.06 in (1.6 mm)
6. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves or cracks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6521
Pad Retainer Installation
7. Make sure that the pad retainers are installed in the correct positions.
Brake Pad And Shim Installation
8. Install the brake pads and pad shims on caliper bracket.
^ When reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent loss
of braking efficiency.
^ Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads.
NOTE:
^ Apply Molykote M77 to the pad side of the shims. Wipe excess grease off the shims.
^ Install the inner pad with its wear indicator facing upward.
9. Rotate the caliper piston clockwise into place in the cylinder, then align the cutout in the piston
with the tab on the inner pad by turning the piston
back.
CAUTION: Lubricate the boot with silicone grease to avoid twisting the piston boot. It piston boot is
twisted, back it out so it sits properly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6522
Caliper Installation
10. Install the caliper on the caliper bracket and tighten the caliper mounting bolts.
Caliper Shield Installation
11. Install the caliper shield. 12. Depress the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes
work, then road-test.
NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake
pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal
pedal stroke.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information
Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information
00-088
July 14, 2010
Applies To: ALL Models
Brake Disc Refinishing Guidelines
(Supersedes 00-088, dated October 6, 2006, to revise the information marked with the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
The requirement to refinish new brake discs was removed.*
American Honda does not allow replacement of brake discs under warranty unless the brake disc
is beyond its service limit for refinishing. If the brake disc is within its service limit, you must refinish
it. Maximum refinishing limits may be found in the Conventional Brakes section of the appropriate
service manual.
*Refinish brake discs only when they are scored or out of specification for runout or parallelism.
See the appropriate service manual for the specifications.*
American Honda requires refinishing of the front brake discs with an on-car brake lathe that mounts
to the steering knuckle. Use of an on-car, steering knuckle- mounted lathe is critical because it
corrects runout of the hub and disc as an assembly. Experience has shown that very small
amounts of runout, not felt as brake pulsation initially, will grow and become noticeable as the discs
are subjected to heat and wear over time and mileage. Two on-car brake lathes are recommended.
The Kwik-Lathe, model number KWY-108000501, is supported with automatic shipments of
adapters for new models, when required. The Accu-turn On-car Brake Lathe, model
ACCHONOCLPKG, is also recommended.
A power driver is required for the 82000 and is highly recommended for all other models. The
Kwik-Lathe power driver model number is KWY-108012005; the Accu-turn lathe includes a power
driver. Here are some advantages of using power drivers:
^ The disc is rotated at the optimum speed for a smooth and consistent cut.
^ There is no need to climb in and out of the vehicle to start and stop the engine or to shift the
transmission.
^ Securing the opposite wheel with a tie-down strap is not required.
^ There is no waiting for the engine to return to idle and no concern about engine speed changes
that can adversely affect brake disc cut and finish.
^ The Traction Control System (TCS) is not involved.
^ Consistent cutting speed increases cutting tool life.
ORDERING INFORMATION
Order brake lathes and power drivers through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To place
an order, call or use the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program
Catalog. Phone lines are open Monday thru Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Central Time. You
can also order online through the Interactive Network (iN). Click on Service, Tool and Equipment,
and then Online Catalog. Click on Alignment, Wheel, and Brake Equipment, and then On-Car
Brake Lathes.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None, this bulletin is for information only.
FRONT BRAKE DISCS
The following guidelines show the Kwik-Way lathe setup, the Accu-turn lathe setup is similar.
Setting Up the Vehicle
Put the transmission in Neutral. If you are not using the power drive system, start the engine, and
let it warm up to its normal operating temperature so the idle speed will stabilize to its lowest rpm.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 6527
Raise the vehicle on a lift.
Check for loose wheel bearings. You must replace loose wheel bearings before you refinish the
brake discs. If you do not, the brake lathe will not correct for brake disc runout, resulting in an
uneven finish and brake pulsation.
Remove the front wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts with flat washers to compensate for the
removed wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to the required specification (see the appropriate service
manual).
Remove the caliper assembly. Use a wire or a S-hook to hold the caliper to the spring or damper
tower. Do not kink the brake hose or use it to support the caliper. If you are not using the power
drive system and the vehicle has ICS or VSA, make sure you install a brake pad spreader between
the pads on the hanging caliper. Also, make sure the ICS or VSA is turned off anytime the engine
is started. If the system is not turned off, the brakes could activate, causing the brake pads on the
hanging caliper to hit each other or the caliper pistons to fall out.
Install the vibration damper on the brake disc. If you are not using the power drive system, make
sure you install the protective band around the wheel nuts.
If you are not using the power drive system, use a fabric tie-down strap to secure the brake disc
that is opposite to the one you are refinishing. If you are working on a Prelude with ATTS, do not
use a tie-down strap; let both wheels turn freely.
Mounting the Brake Lathe
Remove the tool bed from the brake lathe, then mount the brake lathe to the steering knuckle with
a Honda 1-piece speed mount. These mounts provide quicker, more accurate mounting, and can
be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 6528
Honda 1-Piece Speed Mounts
P/N KWY-108006000 (for most models), P/N KWY-108007500 (Odysseys, Pilots, and Ridgelines
with two-piston calipers)
Attaching the Power Drive System
1. Make sure the drive motor assembly on the power drive system is level with the brake disc.
2. Attach the mounting yoke to the brake disc, and secure it with one of the wheel nuts. Torque the
wheel nut to the required specification (see the
appropriate service manual).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 6529
3. Attach the driveshaft on the drive motor assembly to the mounting yoke, making sure the center
line of the driveshaft is level with the spindle nut on
the wheel hub.
4. Set the lower toggle switch on the drive motor assembly to FWD (counterclockwise rotation) or
REV (clockwise rotation).
Setting Up and Adjusting the Brake Lathe
Use Kwik-Way cutting bits, P/N KWY-109109223, and the holding screws that come with them.
These bits are stamped KW and are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Before you use the brake lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make
sure the tips are not worn out. Each bit has three tips. If a tip is worn, rotate the bit, and use a new
tip. A worn tip produces a poor finish and may cause chattering.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 6530
Reinstall the tool bed on the brake lathe with the top of the cutting bits facing up and the feed
knobs facing down. Adjust the tool bed until the brake disc is centered between the cutting bits. For
proper refinishing, the brake disc must turn toward the top of the cutting bits.
Do not set the cutting depth on the brake lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.). This is two
divisions on the cutting knob. Make sure you start your cut at least 3 mm (0.12 in.) beyond the worn
area on the brake disc.
If you are cutting larger diameter brake discs, make sure you use the 150 cutting bit holders. These
bit holders, available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING
INFORMATION), supersede the original bit holders and provide better cutting coverage for larger
diameter brake discs. Each bit holder is clearly marked for proper installation on the tool holder.
Cutting the Brake Disc
To get the smoothest cut and the best brake disc finish, always use the slowest feed speed on the
tool bed feed motor. Place the drive belt on the smallest pulley of the feed motor and on the largest
pulley of the hand wheel.
Make sure the lower toggle switch on the power drive system drive motor assembly is set to the
proper rotation to turn the brake disc toward the top of the cutting bits. Plug the tool bed feed motor
into the power outlet on the drive motor assembly, then turn on the drive motor with the upper
toggle switch on the assembly.
If you are not using the power drive system, make sure the transmission is in 1st gear (2nd gear on
Preludes with ATTS) or Reverse and the engine is idling, but not at a fast idle. If the transmission
and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits.
Turn on the tool bed feed motor, and snap it into place; there should be tension on the feed belt.
Cut the brake disc until the cutting bits clear the outer edge of the disc. The cutting bits should
produce a smooth, consistent finish with no chatter marks or grooves.
If the disc did not clean up entirely on the first pass, reset the brake lathe and make a second pass.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 6531
Finishing the Job
Remove the vibration damper and the protective band (if used). Use a micrometer to measure the
thickness of the brake disc. Make sure the thickness is within the service manual specifications.
Clean the brake disc with soapy water or brake cleaner, then wipe it dry. Use a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust or chips, but do not use compressed air.
Unplug the tool bed feed motor from the drive motor assembly, and remove the mounting yoke
from the brake disc. Remove the speed mount from the steering knuckle.
Apply a small amount of Molykote 77 grease to the brake pad shims. Reinstall the caliper
assembly. (If you did not use the power drive system, use the brake pad spreader to push the
pistons back into the caliper.)
Torque the nuts and bolts to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual).
Refinish the other front brake disc using the same guidelines.
Check the brake fluid level, then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the brake pedal is firm and
does not pulsate. Lightly apply the brakes about 20 times during the test-drive to seat the brake
pads.
REAR BRAKE DISCS
It is possible to use an on-car lathe on some models if the rear caliper mounts are low enough to
clear the vehicle body. A power driver is needed for front drive models. Refinish rear brake discs on
bench-mounted equipment if necessary.
Follow the same guidelines you used for refinishing front brake discs, noting these differences:
^ Mount the brake lathe to the rear knuckle with the Honda 2-Piece Adapter (P/N KWY-1
08102504). You can order the 2-piece adapter through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 6532
Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Disc Refinishing Procedure
Bulletin No. 86-020
Issue Date May 27, 1997
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL Except 2WD Passport
File Under BRAKES
Brake Disc Refinishing (Supersedes 86-020, dated October 3, 1986)
[NEW]
* Brake disc replacement under warranty is not allowed unless the disc is beyond its maximum
refinishing limit. If a disc is within its limit, it must be refinished. For front and rear brake disc
maximum refinishing limit specifications, refer to section 19 of the appropriate service manual
(section 5A2 for Passports).
Front Brake Discs Whenever a front brake disc is replaced, it must be refinished on the car.
Refinishing new front discs is included in the flat-rate time for disc replacement.
To avoid brake vibration, always refinish front brake discs on the car with the Kwik-Way or Snap-on
brake lathe. Purchasing information for these lathes is in Service Bulletin 87-034, Front Brake Disc
Refinishing Equipment, filed in the Special Tools section.
Follow these tips to get the best results from your on-car brake lathe. (For detailed instructions,
refer to the lathe's operating manual.)
^ Before refinishing, warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
^ On 2WD vehicles, lift both front wheels off the ground. On 4WD vehicles, lift all four wheels off
the ground.
^ On 4WD Passports, make sure that the hub nut is properly adjusted (with no end play) and the
transmission is in 4H.
^ On Preludes with ATTS (Active Torque Transfer System), let both front wheels turn freely On
other vehicles, use a tie-down strap to secure the disc opposite to the one being refinished.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 6533
^ Install the vibration damper on the disc, and install the protective band around the wheel lug nuts.
^ Mount the lathe to the caliper bracket with Honda Quick-Mount Adapters. The adapters can be
ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program; contact Special Tools at 800-346-6327.
The advantage of using the adapters is that they don't have to be removed from the lathe once
they are installed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 6534
^ Use the aligning bar tool to ensure that the lathe moves square to the center of the brake disc.
The disc should turn toward the cutting bits.
^ Use "Kwik-Way" cutting bits (P/N KW109-1092-23, H/C 5418866) and the holding screws that
come with them. These bits are stamped "K W." They can be purchased from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures, or by contacting a Kwik-Way distributor. The Kwik-Way
P/N is 109-1092-23.
^ Before using the lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make sure
they are not worn out. Each bit has three tips.
^ Do not set the cutting depth on the lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) This is two divisions on
the cutting knob.
^ To refinish, the transmission must be in first gear (D3 or D4, if the shift selector doesn't have a
first gear position; second gear on Preludes with ATTS), with the engine at idle (not fast idle). If the
transmission and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits.
Rear Brake Discs
Refinish rear brake discs off the car with conventional disc refinishing equipment.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION [NEW] None; information only.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Front
Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications
Nominal Thickness 0.820 in
Minimum Refinish Thickness 0.740 in
Thickness Variation Parallelism 0.0006 in
Lateral Runout 0.006 in
Minimum Pad Thickness 0.060 in
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Front > Page 6537
Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications
Nominal Thickness 0.350 in
Minimum Refinish Thickness 0.320 in
Thickness Variation Parallelism 0.0006 in
Lateral Runout 0.004 in
Minimum Pad Thickness 0.060 in
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6538
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Raise spindle nut locking tab,
then remove spindle nut. 3. Remove brake hose bracket mounting bolts. 4. Remove caliper and
position aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose. 5. Remove brake disc
attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching screw holes to push disc
from hub. When tightening
screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent excessively cocking the brake disc.
6. Remove brake disc from knuckle. 7. Remove speed sensor wire bracket, then the speed sensor
from knuckle. 8. Remove tie rod end cotter pin and nut. 9. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod
end remover.
10. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way. 11. Using ball joint
remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent, separate ball joint and lower arm. 12. Remove
upper ball joint shield, then the cotter pin and nut. 13. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm
using suitable ball joint remover. 14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off
driveshaft. 15. Remove hub from steering knuckle using suitable press. 16. Remove knuckle ring,
circlip and splash guard from knuckle. 17. Press out wheel bearing from hub using driver tool No.
07749-0010000, attachment tool No. 07746-0010500 and base tool No. 07GAF-SE00401,
or equivalents.
18. Remove outboard bearing inner race from hub.
Fig. 2 Exploded View Of Steering Knuckle & Hub Assembly
19. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Fig. 2 for tightening specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Specifications > Automatic Transaxle
Brake Drum: Specifications
Brake Drum Standard Inside Diameter 7.87 in
Brake Drum Service Limit 7.91 in
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Specifications > Automatic Transaxle > Page 6544
Brake Drum: Specifications
Brake Drum Standard Inside Diameter 7.09 in
Brake Drum Service Limit 7.13 in
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal
Brake Drum: Service and Repair Removal
Fig. 1 Rear Drum Brake Assembly
1. Refer to Fig. 1 when replacing brake shoes. 2. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove
tire and wheel assemblies. 3. Loosen parking brake, then remove rear brake drums. 4. Remove
tension pins by pushing retainer springs while turning. 5. Lower brake shoe assembly being careful
not to damage wheel cylinder dust cover, then remove lower return spring. 5. Disconnect parking
brake cable from parking brake lever, then remove brake shoe assembly. 7. Remove upper return
spring, self-adjuster lever and spring, then separate brake shoes. 8. Remove wave washer, parking
brake lever and pivot pin from brake shoe by removing the U-clip.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal > Page 6547
Brake Drum: Service and Repair Inspection
1. Inspect wheel cylinders for leakage, and brake linings for cracking, glazing, wear and
contamination. 2. Measure brake lining thickness. Compare measurement with specifications. If
brake lining thickness is less than specified, replace both shoes as a
set.
3. Inspect brake drum for scoring, grooving and cracks. Replace as necessary. 4. Measure inside
diameter of brake drum. Compare measurement with specifications. If refinishing limit stamped on
drum is different than
specified, use the specification on the drum.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal > Page 6548
Brake Drum: Service and Repair Installation
1. Apply brake cylinder grease to sliding surface of pivot pin, then insert pin into brake shoe. 2.
Install parking brake lever and wave washer on pivot pin and secure with U-clip. Pinch U-clip
securely to prevent pivot pin from coming out of
brake shoe.
3. Connect parking brake cable to parking brake lever. 4. Apply grease to each sliding surface.
Keep grease off of brake linings. Wipe off any excess grease. 5. Clean threaded portions of clevis
pins A and B, then coat with grease. To shorten clevis pins, turn adjuster bolt. 6. Hook adjuster
spring to adjuster lever first, then to brake shoe. Be careful not to damage wheel cylinder dust
covers. 7. Install lower return spring, tension pins and retaining springs. 8. Install brake drum, then
depress brake pedal several times to set the self adjusting brake. 9. Adjust parking brake as
outlined under Parking Brake.
10. Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection
Brake Shoe: Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect wheel cylinders for leakage, and brake linings for cracking, glazing, wear and
contamination. 2. Measure brake lining thickness. Compare measurement with specifications. If
brake lining thickness is less than specified, replace both shoes as a
set.
3. Inspect brake drum for scoring, grooving and cracks. Replace as necessary. 4. Measure inside
diameter of brake drum. Compare measurement with specifications. If refinishing limit stamped on
drum is different than
specified, use the specification on the drum.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal
Brake Shoe: Service and Repair Removal
Fig. 1 Rear Drum Brake Assembly
1. Refer to Fig. 1 when replacing brake shoes. 2. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove
tire and wheel assemblies. 3. Loosen parking brake, then remove rear brake drums. 4. Remove
tension pins by pushing retainer springs while turning. 5. Lower brake shoe assembly being careful
not to damage wheel cylinder dust cover, then remove lower return spring. 5. Disconnect parking
brake cable from parking brake lever, then remove brake shoe assembly. 7. Remove upper return
spring, self-adjuster lever and spring, then separate brake shoes. 8. Remove wave washer, parking
brake lever and pivot pin from brake shoe by removing the U-clip.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal > Page 6554
Brake Shoe: Service and Repair Installation
1. Apply brake cylinder grease to sliding surface of pivot pin, then insert pin into brake shoe. 2.
Install parking brake lever and wave washer on pivot pin and secure with U-clip. Pinch U-clip
securely to prevent pivot pin from coming out of
brake shoe.
3. Connect parking brake cable to parking brake lever. 4. Apply grease to each sliding surface.
Keep grease off of brake linings. Wipe off any excess grease. 5. Clean threaded portions of clevis
pins A and B, then coat with grease. To shorten clevis pins, turn adjuster bolt. 6. Hook adjuster
spring to adjuster lever first, then to brake shoe. Be careful not to damage wheel cylinder dust
covers. 7. Install lower return spring, tension pins and retaining springs. 8. Install brake drum, then
depress brake pedal several times to set the self adjusting brake. 9. Adjust parking brake as
outlined under Parking Brake System / Adjustments.
10. Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Specifications
Wheel Cylinder: Specifications
Backing Plate To Axle 47 ft.lb
Banjo Bolt 25 ft.lb
Parking Brake Nut 20 ft.lb
Wheel Cylinder To Backing Plate 6.5 ft.lb
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair System Bleeding
Anti-Lock Brake System
Anti-Lock Brake Bleeding See: With Anti-Lock Brakes (Using ALB Checker)
With Anti-Lock Brakes (Using ALB Checker)
Park vehicle on level ground with wheels blocked. When bleeding brakes, put manual transaxle in
the Neutral position and automatic transaxle in the Park position.
1. With ignition switch Off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on the
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
anti-lock brake checker tool Nos. 07HAJ-SG0010A or 07HAJ-SG0010B, or equivalents.
2. Fill modulator reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 3. Start engine and allow it to idle
for a few minutes, then shut engine off. Check fluid in modulator reservoir and refill to MAX level if
necessary.
Fig. 86 Bleeding High Pressure Fluid At Maintenance Bleeder
4. Bleed high pressure fluid from maintenance bleeder with bleeder wrench tool No.
07HAA-SG00101, or equivalent, Fig. 86. 5. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and install
reservoir cap. 6. Turn mode selector switch on checker to 2. 7. While depressing brake pedal
firmly, push start test switch to operate modulator. There should be kickback on brake pedal. If
there is no kickback,
repeat bleeding sequence as outlined above.
8. Turn mode selector switch on checker to 3, 4 and 5. At each test mode position, refill modulator
reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 9. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and
install reservoir cap. Disconnect ALB checker before driving car. A collision can result from a
reduction, or complete loss of braking ability.
Without Anti-Lock Brakes
CAUTION:
- Always use Genuine Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause
corrosion and decrease the life of the system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding > Page 6563
- Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
- Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the
paint, wash it off immediately with water.
NOTE: The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of
the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required.
1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line. 2. Have someone
slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding > Page 6564
3. Loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed
screw securely.
Brake Bleeding Sequence
4. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown until air bubbles no longer appear
in the fluid. 5. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding > Page 6565
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair ABS Hydraulic Component Bleeding and Fluid Service
Relieving Accumulator/Line Pressure
WARNING: Use the Bleeder T-wrench before disassembling the parts shaded in the illustration
Collecting High-pressure Fluid Into Reservoir Through Maintenance Bleeder
- Open the hood.
- Remove the red cap from the bleeder on the modulator body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding > Page 6566
Fig. 81 Brake System Pressure Relief
- Install the special tool on the maintenance bleeder, and turn it out slowly 90° to collect
high-pressure fluid into the reservoir. Turn the special tool out one complete turn to drain the brake
fluid thoroughly.
- Retighten the maintenance bleeder, and discard the fluid.
- Reinstall the red cap.
Brake Fluid Change
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Bleeding > Page 6567
Fig. 85 Draining Brake Fluid Reservoir W/Syringe
1. Brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of modulator reservoir with a syringe. It may also
be drained through the pump joint after
disconnecting pump hose, Fig. 85.
2. Loosen master cylinder bleed screw and pump brake pedal to drain brake fluid from master
cylinder.
WARNING:
- High-pressure fluid will squirt out if the shaded hose and pipe are removed.
- To drain high-pressure brake fluid.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Banjo Bolt 25 ft.lb
Front Caliper Bleed Screw 6 ft.lb
Front Caliper Bolt (Bottom) 20 ft.lb
Front Caliper Bolt (Top) 25 ft.lb
Front Caliper Bracket Bolt 80 ft.lb
Parking Brake Nut 20 ft.lb
Rear Caliper Bleed Screw 7 ft.lb
Rear Caliper Bracket Bolt 28 ft.lb
Rear Caliper Mounting Bolt 17 ft.lb
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Front
Removal
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
Fig. 2 Front Pin Siding Disc Brake Caliper
1. Refer to Fig. 2 when replacing calipers. 2. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove wheel
and tire assemblies.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6573
Fig. 19 Brake Line Banjo Bolt
3. Remove banjo bolt and disconnect brake hose from caliper, Fig. 11. 4. Remove caliper bolts,
then the caliper.
Installation
1. Install caliper and caliper bolts. 2. Connect brake hose to caliper, then install banjo bolt. 2. Bleed
front brakes, then install wheel and tire assemblies.
Disassembly
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6574
Fig. 2 Front Pin Siding Disc Brake Caliper
1. Refer to Fig. 2 when overhauling calipers. 2. Remove caliper assembly from vehicle.
Fig. 12 Pad Spring
3. Remove pad spring from caliper body, if equipped, Fig. 12.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6575
Fig. 19 Brake Line Banjo Bolt
4. Place wooden block or shop rag in caliper opposite piston, then carefully remove piston from
caliper by applying air pressure through brake line
hole with OSHA-approved 30 psi nozzle, Fig. 11.
5. Remove boot clip, if equipped, then the piston boot and piston seal.
Assembly
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
1. Clean piston and caliper bore with brake fluid, then inspect for wear or damage. 2. Apply brake
cylinder grease to new piston seal and install seal in cylinder groove. 3. Install piston boot, then the
boot retaining clip. 4. Lubricate caliper cylinder and piston with brake fluid, then install piston in
cylinder with dished end facing in. 5. Install pad spring in caliper housing. 6. Install caliper
assembly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6576
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Rear
Disassembly
- WARNING: Never use an air hose or dry brush to clean brake assemblies.
- Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner to avoid breathing brake dust.
- Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air.
1. Remove the caliper shield.
2. Remove the lock pin and clevis pin. Remove the cable clip and disconnect the cable from the
parking brake arm.
3. Remove the banjo bolt and two sealing washers. 4. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and
caliper body from the bracket. 5. Remove the pad spring from the caliper body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6577
6. Remove the piston by rotating the piston counterclockwise with the special tool and remove the
piston boot.
CAUTION: Avoid damaging the piston.
7. Remove the piston seal.
CAUTION: Take care not to damage the cylinder bore.
8. Install the special tool between the caliper body and spring cover.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the inside of the caliper cylinder during caliper disassembly.
9. Position the locknuts as shown, then turn the shaft until the plate just contacts the caliper body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6578
NOTE: Do not compress the spring under the spring cover.
10. Turn the shaft clockwise 1/4-1/2 turn to compress the adjusting spring B in the caliper body.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the inner components, do not turn the shaft more than 1/2 turn.
10. Turn the shaft clockwise 1/4-1/2 turn to compress the adjusting spring B in the caliper body.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the inner components, do not turn the shaft more than 1/2 turn.
11. Lower the locknuts fully and tighten the locknuts securely.
NOTE: Keep the locknuts in this position until you reinstall the circlip.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6579
12. Remove the circlip with snap ring pliers.
13. Hold the plate with your fingers and turn the shaft counterclockwise. Remove the special tool
from the caliper. 14. Remove the adjusting bolt.
15. Remove the spring cover, adjusting spring B, spacer, bearing A and cup from the adjusting bolt.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6580
16. Remove the sleeve piston, and remove the pin from the cam. 17. Remove the return spring. 18.
Remove the parking lever and cam as an assembly from the caliper body.
CAUTION: Do not loosen the parking nut with the cam installed in the caliper body. If the lever and
shalt must be separated, hold the lever in a vise and loosen the parking nut.
19. Remove the cam boot.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6581
Reassembly
WARNING:
- Never use an air hose or dry brush to clean brake assemblies.
- Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner to avoid breathing brake dust.
- Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability.
- When reusing the pads, install them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint: if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passage with compressed air.
- Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.
- Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do so.
- Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
- Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
NOTE:
- Coat piston, piston seal, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
- Replace all rubber parts with new ones whenever disassembled.
1. Pack all cavities of the needle bearing with recommended grease. .
Coat the new cam boot with recommended grease and install it in the caliper body.
3. Apply recommended grease to the pin contacting area of the cam and install the cam and lever
assembly into the caliper body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6582
4. Install the return spring.
CAUTION:
- When the cam and lever were separated, be sure to assemble them before installing the cam in
the caliper body. Install the lever and spring washer apply locking agent to the threads, and tighten
the parking nut while holding the lever with a vise.
- Avoid damaging the cam boot since it must be installed before the cam.
- When installing the cam, do not allow the cam boot lips to turn outside in.
5. Install the pin in the cam. 6. Apply recommended grease to the new O-ring and install it on the
sleeve piston. 7. Install the sleeve piston so the hole in the bottom of the piston is aligned with the
pin in the cam and two pins on the piston are aligned with the
holes in the caliper.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6583
8. Coat a new cup with recommended grease, and install it with its groove facing the bearing A side
of the adjusting bolt. 9. Fit the bearing A, spacer, adjusting spring B and spring cover on the
adjusting bolt, and install them in the caliper cylinder.
10. Install the special tool on the spring cover and turn the shaft until the locknut contacts the plate
11. Check that the flared end of the spring cover is below the circlip groove.
12. Install the circlip in the groove, then remove the special tool.
NOTE: Check that the circlip is seated in the groove properly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6584
13. Coat a new piston seal with silicone grease and in stall it in the caliper. 14. Apply brake cylinder
grease (P/N: 08733-BO2OE) or equivalent rubber grease to the sealing lips and inside of a new
piston boot, and install it in
the caliper.
15. Coat the outside of the piston with brake fluid and install it on the adjusting bolt while rotating it
clockwise with the special tool.
16. Install the pad spring on the caliper. 17. Install the brake pad retainers and brake pads.
CAUTION: Avoid damaging the piston and piston boot.
18. Align the cutout in the piston with the tab on the inner pad.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6585
19. Install the caliper on the caliper bracket and tighten the caliper mounting bolts. 20. Connect the
brake hose to the caliper with new sealing washers and tighten the banjo bolt.
21. Insert the cable through the arm and connect the cable to the lever with the clevis pin and lock
pin. Install the cable clip securely. 22. Fill the brake reservoir up and bleed the brake system. 23.
Operate the brake pedal several times, then adjust the parking brake. 24. After installation, perform
the following checks.
- Check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary.
- Check the parking brake lever for operation and adjust if necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Specifications
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Fluid type DOT 3 or 4
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Accumulator >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Fluid Accumulator: Description and Operation
The accumulator is a pneumatic type which accumulates high pressure brake fluid fed from the
pump incorporated in the power unit. When the anti-lock brake system operates, the accumulator
feeds high pressure brake fluid to the modulator valve via the inlet side of the solenoid valve.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Accumulator >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation
Brake Fluid Accumulator: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
Fig. 95 Accumulator Replacement
Refer to Fig. 95 when replacing accumulator.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Accumulator >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation > Page 6594
Brake Fluid Accumulator: Service and Repair Disposal
WARNING: The accumulator contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do not puncture, expose to
flame or attempt to disassemble the accumulator
or it may explode.
Fig. 79 Relieving Nitrogen Gas From Accumulator For Disposal
1. Secure accumulator in a vise with relief plug pointing straight up, Fig. 84. 2. Slowly turn plug 3
1/2 turns and wait three minutes for all pressure to escape. 3. Remove plug completely and
dispose of accumulator unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations
Left Rear Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 6598
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
The brake system indicator light comes ON to alert the driver that the parking brake is applied, or
that the brake fluid level is low. It also comes ON as a bulb test when the engine is cranked.
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 15 to the brake
system light. If the brake fluid level is low, the brake fluid level switch closes, providing ground to
the circuit. The brake system light then comes ON, alerting the driver to a low brake fluid level in
the brake master cylinder. (Check brake pad wear before adding fluid.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Pressure
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
The pressure switch monitors the pressure accumulation in the accumulator and is turned off when
the pressure becomes lower than a prescribed level. When the pressure switch is turned off, the
switching signal is sent to the control unit. Upon receiving the signal, the control unit activates the
pump motor relay to operate the motor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Proportioning/Combination
Valve > Component Information > Service and Repair
Brake Proportioning/Combination Valve: Service and Repair
The dual portioning valve is not a serviceable component and must be replaced if found to be
faulty.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Locations
Power Unit: Locations
Right Rear Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Power Unit: Description and Operation Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Modulators and solenoid valves are integrated in the modulator unit. The modulators for front and
rear brakes are of independent construction and are positioned vertically. The modulators for rear
brakes are provided with a proportioning control valve to prevent the rear wheels from locking when
the anti-lock brake system is malfunctioning or not activated.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve >
Page 6610
Power Unit: Description and Operation Power Unit
The power unit consists of a motor and a plunger pump. Since an eccentric bearing is positioned
on the end of the motor shaft, the rotation of the motor provides the reciprocating motion of the
plunger. The brake fluid is thus pressurized and fed to the accumulator.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Power Unit: Service and Repair Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
CAUTION: Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact
the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve > Page 6613
Relieving Accumulator/Line Pressure
WARNING: Use the Bleeder T-wrench before disassembling the parts shaded in the illustration.
1. Open the hood. 2. Remove the red cap from the bleeder on the modulator body. 3. Install the
special tool on the maintenance bleeder and turn it out slowly 90°to collect high-pressure fluid into
the reservoir. Turn the special tool
out one complete turn to drain the brake fluid thoroughly.
4. Retighten the maintenance bleeder and discard the fluid. 5. Reinstall the red cap.
Reservoir Brake Fluid Draining
1. Draining brake fluid from modulator tank:
The brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of the modulator tank with a syringe. It may also
be drained through the pump joint after disconnecting the pump hose.
2. Draining brake fluid from master cylinder:
Loosen the bleed screw and pump the brake pedal to drain the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
WARNING: High-pressure fluid will squirt out if the shaded hose and pipe are removed.
- To drain high-pressure brake fluid, follow the procedure for releaving accumulator line pressure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve > Page 6614
Modulator/Pump
Removal/Installation
CAUTION:
- Be careful not to bend or damage the brake pipes when removing the modulator unit.
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.
- Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
- When connecting the brake pipes, make sure that there is no interference between the brake
pipes and other parts.
1. Remove the battery and battery tray. 2. Disconnect the solenoid, motor and pressure switch
connectors. 3. Disconnect the brake pipes from the modulator unit. 4. Remove the mounting bolts
and nut, then remove the modulator/ABS pump assembly from the frame. 5. Install the
modulator/ABS pump assembly in the reverse order of removal. 6. After installation, bleed the air
from the system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve > Page 6615
Modulator/Pump
Index/Torque Before removing the modulator-to-pump high-pressure line, be sure to relieve the
pressure fluid from the maintenance bleeder. Refer to Relieving Accumulator/Line Pressure above.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.
- Do net mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
- Do not try to disassemble the modulator unit and pump assembly. Replace the modulator unit as
an assembly if it is defective.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve > Page 6616
Solenoids
Leak Test
NOTE: If a solenoid leaks excessively, the brake fluid level in the modulator reservoir tank will rise
when operating the ABS motor. The modulator reservoir may also overflow.
1. Connect an ohmmeter between the YEL and YEL terminals of the pressure switch connector. 2.
Attach the positive (+) lead of a fully charged 12 V battery to the RED/WHT terminal of the motor
connector and negative (-) lead to the GRN
terminal, and install a switch between negative lead and GRN terminal as shown.
3. Turn the switch on to allow sufficient pressure to build up within the accumulator and check for
continuity. If the ohmmeter shows continuity
(pressure switch turned on), run the motor for 10 seconds more, then turn the switch off. Check if the solenoid hisses or squeaks. Replace the modulator unit if the solenoid hisses or
squeaks.
- Check the pressure switch for continuity within 30 minutes. It is normal if there is continuity. If
there is no continuity, a solenoid is faulty or there is a high-pressure line leak.
Accumulator
Replacement
- Before removing the modulator-to-accumulator high pressure line, be sure to relieve the pressure
fluid from the maintenance bleeder. Refer to Relieving Accumulator/Line Pressure above.
1. Loosen the flare nuts and remove the accumulator pipe
2. Remove the three mounting bolts and the accumulator from the modulator unit. 3. Install a new
accumulator in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve > Page 6617
4. Bleed the air from the high-pressure line. Refer to Air Bleeding with ALB Checker below.
Disposal
The accumulator contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do not puncture, expose to the flame, or
attempt to disassemble the accumulator or it may explode and severe personal injury may result. 1.
Secure the accumulator in a vise so that the relief plug points straight up. 2. Slowly turn the plug
three and a half turns and then wait three minutes for all pressure to escape.
3. Remove the plug completely and dispose of the accumulator.
Bleeding
Air Bleeding with ALB Checker
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
- Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
1. Place the vehicle on level ground with the wheels blocked. Put the transmission in neutral for
manual transmission models, and in (P) position for
automatic transmission models. Release the parking brake.
2. Disconnect the ABS inspection connector (6P) from the cross-member under the passenger's
seat and connect the ABS inspection connector (6P)
to the ALB checker.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve > Page 6618
3. Fill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap. 4. Start the engine
and allow it to idle for a few minutes, then stop it. Check the fluid level in the modulator reservoir
and refill to the MAX level line
if necessary.
5. Bleed high-pressure fluid from the maintenance bleeder with the special tool. 6. Refill the
modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap. 7. Turn the Mode Selector
switch of the checker to 2. 8. While depressing the brake pedal firmly, push the Start Test switch to
operate the modulator. There should be kickback on the brake pedal. If not,
repeat steps 5 to 8.
NOTE: Continue to depress the brake pedal firmly when operating the checker.
9. Turn the Mode Selector to 3, 4, and 5. Perform step 8 for each of the test mode positions.
10. Refill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap.
WARNING: Disconnect the ALB check before driving the car. A collision can result from a
reduction, or complete loss of braking ability causing severe personal injury or death.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Power Unit <--> [Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Pressure Modulator Valve > Page 6619
Power Unit: Service and Repair Power Unit
Fig. 104 Power Unit Replacement
Refer to Fig. 104 when replacing power unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Master Cylinder: Description and Operation
A tandem master cylinder is used in order to improve safety of the braking system. In addition, a
center valve method is introduced to match the anti-lock brake operation.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Adjustments > Pushrod Clearance
Brake Master Cylinder: Adjustments Pushrod Clearance
Master cylinder pushrod-to-piston clearance must be checked and adjusted before installing master
cylinder.
Fig. 17 Adjusting Pushrod Adjustment Gauge Bolt
1. Using pushrod adjustment gauge tool No. 07JAG-SD40100, or equivalent, adjust bolt so top of it
is flush with end of master cylinder piston, Fig.
1.
2. Install master cylinder rod seal between pushrod bolt adjustment gauge and brake booster. 3.
Without disturbing position of adjusting bolts, install gauge upside down on booster and torque nuts
to 11 ft. lbs.
Fig. 2 Measuring Pushrod Clearance
4. Connect booster inline with a vacuum gauge, and maintain an engine speed that will deliver 20
inches of vacuum. Then, using a feeler gauge,
measure clearance between gauge body and adjusting nut, Fig. 2. Clearance should be 0.020
inches.
5. If clearance is incorrect, loosen star locknut and turn adjuster in or out to adjust. Hold clevis
while adjusting, then tighten star locknut securely. 6. After adjustment, loosen clevis end pushrod
locknut and turn pushrod to obtain correct pedal height. Adjust pedal to floor height, to the following
specifications: a. On models with manual transaxle, 6.30 inches; with automatic transaxle, 6.50
inches.
7. Adjust brake light switch.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Adjustments > Pushrod Clearance > Page 6625
Brake Master Cylinder: Adjustments Pushrod Length
Fig. 3 Pushrod Length
Install locknut and pushrod yoke on pushrod, then adjust pushrod length Fig. 3.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6626
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair
1. Remove master cylinder reservoir cap, then the brake fluid by sucking out through top of
reservoir with suitable syringe. 2. Disconnect brake lines from master cylinder, then all necessary
electrical connectors. 3. Remove nuts retaining master cylinder to brake booster. 4. Remove
master cylinder. 5. Reverse procedure to install. After installation is complete, fill master cylinder
with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, then bleed brakes.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Specifications
Wheel Cylinder: Specifications
Backing Plate To Axle 47 ft.lb
Banjo Bolt 25 ft.lb
Parking Brake Nut 20 ft.lb
Wheel Cylinder To Backing Plate 6.5 ft.lb
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Warning Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Brake Switch
Below Rear Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Warning Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch > Page 6635
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Pin Switch
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Functional Test
Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Functional Test
1. With engine stopped, depress brake pedal several times, then depress pedal hard and hold for
15 seconds. If pedal sinks, master cylinder, brake
line or brake caliper is faulty.
2. With brake pedal depressed, start engine. If pedal sinks slightly, vacuum booster is operating. If
pedal height does not vary, booster or check valve
is faulty.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Functional Test > Page 6641
Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Leak Test
1. With engine running, depress brake pedal and hold, then stop engine. If pedal height does not
vary with brake pedal depressed for 30 seconds,
vacuum booster is operating. If pedal rises, booster is faulty.
2. Depress brake pedal several times with normal pressure. When pedal is first depressed, it
should be low. As pedal is depressed, pedal height
should gradually rise. If pedal height does not vary, check booster check valve.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Functional Test > Page 6642
Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Check Valve Test
1. Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose at booster. 2. Start engine and allow to idle. 3. Vacuum
should be indicated, if not, check valve is faulty. 4. Replace check valve and retest.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6643
Vacuum Brake Booster: Adjustments
NOTE:
- The master cylinder pushrod-to-piston clearance must be checked and adjustments made, if
necessary, before installing the master cylinder.
- ABS type is shown, conventional brake type is similar.
1. Set the special tool on the master cylinder body; push in the center shaft until the top of it
contacts the end of the secondary piston by turning the
adjusting nut.
2. Without disturbing the center shaft's position, install the special tool upside down on the booster.
3. Install the master cylinder nuts, and tighten to the specified torque. 4. Connect the booster in-line
with a vacuum gauge 0 - 101 kPa (0 - 760 mmHg, 30 in.Hg) to the booster's engine vacuum
supply, and maintain an
engine speed that will deliver 66 kPa (500 mmHg, 20 in.Hg) vacuum.
5. With a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut as
shown.
Clearance: 0 - 0.4 mm (0 - 0.02 inch)
NOTE: If the clearance between the gauge body and adjusting nut is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch), the
pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0 mm. However, if the clearance between the gauge body and
adjusting nut is 0 mm, the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch) or more. Therefore, it
must be adjusted and rechecked.
6. If clearance is incorrect, loosen the star locknut, and turn the adjuster in or out to adjust.
NOTE: Adjust the clearance while the specified vacuum is applied to the booster.
- Hold the clevis while adjusting.
7. Tighten the star locknut securely.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6644
8. Remove the special tool.
Brake Booster Length With Booster Removed
9. Adjust the pushrod length as shown if the booster is removed.
10. Install the master cylinder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
1. Remove master cylinder as outlined under Master Cylinder, Brakes. 2. Disconnect vacuum hose
from booster, then remove vacuum hose bracket. 3. Loosen pushrod locknut, then remove the
cotter pin and clevis pin. 4. Remove clevis from operating rod of booster. 5. Remove four booster
mounting nuts, then remove booster from engine compartment. 6. Reverse procedure to install.
Adjust pushrod length before installing booster.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation > Page 6647
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Disassembly and Assembly
Do not disassemble brake booster; if replacement is required, replace entire booster assembly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS Main
Relay > Component Information > Locations
ABS Main Relay: Locations
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Brake Fluid Pump Relay: Locations
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Electronic Brake Control Module: Locations
Right Side Of Trunk
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 6658
Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation
The main function section of the control unit performs calculations on the basis of the signals from
each speed sensor. It controls the operation of the anti-lock brake system by putting the solenoid
valves in the modulator unit into action for each front brake and for the two rear brakes. The
sub-function section gives driving signals to the pump motor and also gives self-diagnosis signals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 6659
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair
Fig. 90 Control Unit Replacement
Refer to Fig. 90 when replacing the control unit.
1. Remove right side trunk trim panel. 2. Disconnect control unit connectors. 3. Remove control unit
mounting bolts, then the control unit. When control unit mounting bolts are removed, the control
unit's memory is
cleared.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Fail Safe
Relay, ABS / Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Front
Fail Safe Relay: Locations Front
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Fail Safe
Relay, ABS / Traction Control > Component Information > Locations > Front > Page 6664
Fail Safe Relay: Locations Rear
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations
Left Rear Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6669
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
The brake system indicator light comes ON to alert the driver that the parking brake is applied, or
that the brake fluid level is low. It also comes ON as a bulb test when the engine is cranked.
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 15 to the brake
system light. If the brake fluid level is low, the brake fluid level switch closes, providing ground to
the circuit. The brake system light then comes ON, alerting the driver to a low brake fluid level in
the brake master cylinder. (Check brake pad wear before adding fluid.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
The pressure switch monitors the pressure accumulation in the accumulator and is turned off when
the pressure becomes lower than a prescribed level. When the pressure switch is turned off, the
switching signal is sent to the control unit. Upon receiving the signal, the control unit activates the
pump motor relay to operate the motor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Parking
Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Brake Switch
Below Rear Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Parking
Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch > Page 6677
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Pin Switch
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Front
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Front
Behind Left Front Wheel (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Front > Page 6682
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Rear
Behind Left Rear Wheel (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 6683
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
The speed sensor is a non-contact type which detects the rotating speeds of the wheel. It is
composed of a permanent magnet and coil. When the gear pulsers at each wheel turn, the
magnetic coil in the speed sensor alternates, generating voltages with frequency in proportion to
wheel rotating speed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Toothed Ring
Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Toothed Ring
INSPECTION OF THE TOOTHED RING
1. Check the front and rear pulser for chipped or damaged teeth.
2. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and pulser all the way around while rotating the
pulser.
Standard: 0.4 - 1.0 mm (0.02 - 0.04 inch)
NOTE: If the gap exceeds 1.0 mm (0.04 inch), the probability is a distorted suspension arm which
should be replaced.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Toothed Ring > Page 6686
Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Wheel Speed Sensor
TESTING THE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1. Check pulser for chipped or damaged teeth and replace as necessary.
Fig. 82 Measureing Front Speed Sensor Air Gap
2. Measure air gap between sensor and pulser all the way around while rotating driveshaft by hand,
Fig. 82. If gap exceeds its maximum specification
at any point, the knuckle is most likely distorted and should be replaced. Air gap should be
0.016-0.039 inches.
WHEEL SENSOR SIGNAL CONFIRMATION
1. With ignition switch off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
anti-lock brake checker tool Nos. 07HAJ-SG0010A or 07HAJ-SG0010B, or equivalents.
2. Raise and support vehicle so all four wheels are off ground. 3. Turn ignition switch to on position,
then turn mode selector switch on anti-lock brake checker to 0. 4. With transaxle in Neutral
position, rotate each wheel at least one revolution per second and confirm that its respective
monitor light on the checker
blinks as wheel is rotating. Rotating wheel too slowly will produce only weak blinks of monitor
lights. Perform tests in shaded area, as monitor lights may be difficult to see in bright sunlight. If the
front wheels won't spin fast enough to get monitor indication, start engine and slowly accelerate
and decelerate front wheels.
5. If any monitor light fails to blink, check the suspected sensor, its air gap, wiring and connectors.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Front
Fig. 108 Front Speed Sensor Replacement
Refer to Fig. 108 when replacing front speed sensor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 6689
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Rear
Fig. 113 Rear Speed Sensor Replacement
Refer to Fig. 113 when replacing rear speed sensor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Clutch Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Hitachi Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6697
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Mitsuba Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6698
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Nippondenso Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Starter Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Hitachi Starters
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
Fig. 5 Starter Relay Terminal Locations
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 5. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6710
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Mitsuba Starters
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
Fig. 10 Starter Relay Terminal Locations
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 10. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6711
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Nippondenso Starters
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
Fig. 13 Starter Motor Terminal Locations
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 13. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
09-060
February 12, 2011
Applies To: ALL
GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Information
(Supersedes 09-060, dated January 19, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under GR8 UPDATE INSTRUCTIONS, step 9 was updated.*
INTRODUCTION
The software for the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. You can now use the Midtronics GR8 update wizard to download
software and firmware to your GR8 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the
latest GR8 software to ensure that the current battery testing and diagnostic procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that GR8 testers are updated promptly. The GR8
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
GR8 UPDATE REQUIREMENTS
^ GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station: P/N MTRGR81100P
^ USB-to-mini-USB cable (this cable came with the GR8): Midtronics P/N A128
^ Internet access
^ An IBM-compatible PC with Windows 95 operating system or higher (Windows 2000 or XP is
preferred).
To order the GR8 Diagnostic Station, or the USB-to-mini-USB cable, go to the Honda Tool and
Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online
Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).
To check the GR8 software version, click on:
Language > Options > Info > Version
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None. This service bulletin is for information only.
GR8 UPDATE INSTRUCTIONS
The update should take 5-10 minutes. Make sure that the update is not interrupted. If the update is
interrupted, it could damage the GR8 and require you to send the GR8 to Midtronics for repair. This
repair is not covered by warranty.
1. Make sure the GR8 is off and the SD card is removed.
2. Online, go to www.midtronics.com/home/clientlogin/clientlogin.aspx:
3. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
Username: hondagr8
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6716
Password: hondagr8
4. You should see an image of the GR8 tester. Click on the highlighted Update Software link under
the image.
5. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the GR8 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
number are automatically filled in. Click SUBMIT REQUEST.
6. You should see the image of the GR8 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda GR8
Software Update link.
7. A File Download - Security Warning screen appears. Select Run.
8. A file will be downloaded to your computer. After it
is finished, an Internet Explorer - Security Warning screen appears. Select Run.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
*9. The Midtronics Update Wizard appears. Refer to SOFTWARE INFORMATION to find the
current software version.*
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6717
* NOTE:
If the wrong software file appears or is not shown, click Change MUP File, and select the correct
software version.*
10. Turn on the GR8, and follow the Update Wizard on-screen instructions.
11. When the update is complete, the Update Results screen appears, indicating the update was
successful. Click Finish to close the Update Wizard.
12. Turn the GR8 off for 10 seconds. Reinstall the SD card, then turn the GR8 on, and confirm that
the software is updated to the software version
listed under SOFTWARE VERSION.
13. If an error message appears anytime during the update, follow the on-screen instructions, and
try updating the GR8 again. If the error message still
does not go away, or if you have any problems updating the GR8, call Midtronics.
14. If you have more than one GR8, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
15. Once all GR8s are updated, store the USB-to-mini-USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6718
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info.
09-045
February 12, 2011
Applies To: ALL Honda Vehicles
ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Information
(Supersedes 09-027, dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE VERSION, the method to check the current software was updated.*
INTRODUCTION
The software for the ED-18 Battery Analyzer (or tester) is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. To help you update the ED-18 tester more quickly, American
Honda no longer distributes CDs for the tester. You can now use the Midtronics ED-18 update
wizard to download software and firmware to your ED-18 tester using a PC and the Internet. It is
extremely important to use the latest ED-18 software to ensure that the current battery testing
procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that ED-18 testers are updated promptly. The ED-18
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
ED-18 UPDATE REQUIREMENTS
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer: ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBED18LLH ED-18 Version 2: P/N INB17191840
^ RS232 (25 pin to 9 pin) interface cable: P/N MTR130112A*
^ 7/64" hex wrench: P/N INBi7191270* *Both the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench were
included with the ED-18 update that was shipped to dealerships in November 2008.
^ A fully charged 12-volt automotive battery, any size
^ Internet access
^ An IBM-compatible PC:
- Windows 95 operating system or higher (Windows 2000 or XP is preferred)
- CD ROM
- R5232 (9 pin) serial port, or an R5232 to USB Adapter (P/N MTRA164) (Some newer computers
do not have an R5232 port. You will need to order the R5232 to USB adapter to update your ED-18
testers.)
To order the ED-18 Battery Analyzer version 2, the interface cable, the R5232 to USB adapter, or
the hex wrench, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service
Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
The ED-18 Battery Analyzer version 1 is no longer available for purchase.
SOFTWARE VERSION
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6719
*The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).*
To check the ED-18 version 1 software, click on:
Info > Version. The version number is located near the top of the version screen.
To check the ED-18 version 2 software:
^ Turn on the tester, and read the version number on the screen. It should appear for about 3
seconds.
^ Or, you can click on: Language > Options > Info > Version. The version number is located near
the top of the version screen.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None. This service bulletin is for information only.
ED-18 UPDATE INSTRUCTIONS
1. Make sure the ED-18 is off, then detach the printer by using the hex wrench to remove the two
screws at the bottom of the printer. Pull the printer
straight out from the ED-18 to avoid damaging the connector terminals.
2. Connect the R8232 interface cable to the ED-18 where the printer was connected, then connect
the interface cable to your PC.
NOTE:
If your computer doesn't have an R8232 serial port, use the R8232 to USB adapter.
3. Connect the ED-18 battery clamps to a fully charged 12-volt battery.
4. Online, go to
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6720
5. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
^ For ED18 version 1:
Username: hondaedv1 Password: hondaedv1
^ For ED18 version 2:
Username: hondaedv2 Password: hondaedv2
6. You should see an image of your ED-18 tester.
Click on the highlighted Update Software link under the image.
NOTE:
The ED-18 tester version 2 software is shown. Version 1 is similar.
7. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the ED-18 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
number are automatically filled in. Click SUBMIT REQUEST.
8. You should see the image of your ED-18 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda ED-18 V2
Software Update link.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6721
9. A File Download - Security Warning screen appears. Select Run.
10. A file will be downloaded to your computer. After it is finished, an Internet Explorer - Security
Warning screen appears. Select Run.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
11. Turn on the ED-18.
12. Before using the Midtronics update utility, make sure your computer port settings are correct.
Click on: My Computer > Control Panel > System >
Hardware Tab > Device Manager.
Or, you can click on: Windows Start button > Settings > Control Panel > System > Hardware Tab >
Device Manager.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6722
NOTE:
If you are using an RS232 to USB adapter, make sure to plug it in before checking the port
settings.
Expand Ports, and check the communications port number. The communications port number
should match the COMM number in the Midtronics update utility. If the numbers do not match, click
on the arrows next to the COMM windows in the Midtronics update utility, and change the number
to match the computer system's port number.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6723
Make sure this communications port number matches the COMM number on the update. If it does
not, change the number on the update.
13. Click on Start to begin the update, which takes about a minute. A progress bar appears. Wait
until you get a message indicating the update was
successful.
NOTE:
^ If the clamps come off the battery, or the R8232 interface cable comes loose, turn the ED-18 off,
then back on. When the logon screen appears on the ED-18, click on Start to restart the update.
^ If the error message Flash not erased appears, replace the AA batteries in the ED-18, and try the
update again.
14. Click on OK on the ED-18 update.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6724
15. Click on Quit on the ED-18 update. Make sure the message UPDATE COMPLETE appears on
the ED-18 tester.
16. Turn the ED-18 tester off, then back on.
17. Confirm that the software on the ED-18 tester is updated to the software version listed under
SOFTWARE VERSION.
NOTE:
If you have any problems updating the ED-18, call Midtronics at 866-592-8054.
18. Reinstall the printer.
19. If you have more than one ED-18, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
20. Once all ED-18s are updated, store the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench in a safe
location for future updates.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6725
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information
88-023
January 15, 2010
Applies To: ALL
Battery Testing and Replacement
(Supersedes 88-023, dated September 12, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black
bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*^ Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, battery claim Error Codes were added to some
Warranty Requirements
^ The 2005 Model Year and Later battery coverage section was changed to 2005-10 Model Year
Vehicles.*
BACKGROUND
Maintaining batteries in vehicles is an important part of ensuring a battery's operating life. American
Honda recommends using the ED-18 and GR8 to check and maintain batteries. Refer to this
bulletin for:
^ Information on when to use the ED-18 and the GR8.
^ Instructions on how to use the ED-18 and the GR8.
^ How to properly submit a battery warranty claim.
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station: P/N MTRGR81100P
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer (Version 1 or 2): ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBEDi8LLH ED-18 Version 2:
P/N INB17191840
NOTE:
The ED-18 Battery Analyzer Version 1 is no longer available for purchase.
Tool Requirements
The GR8 and ED-18 software must be updated within 3 days of a new software update release.
Refer to the applicable service bulletins for more information:
^ 09-060, GH8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Information
^ 09-045, ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Information
Warranty Requirements
The 10-digit test code must be included on a battery replacement claim. Refer to WARRANTY
CLAIM INFORMATION.
ORDERING INFORMATION
To order the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station or the ED-18-2 Battery Analyzer, go to the Honda Tool
and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment Program >
Online Catalog), or call.
ED-18 AND GR8 USES
New Arrivals, PDI, and Storage
NOTE:
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6726
For more information about documenting the scheduled battery checks, refer to Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers.
ED-18 Battery Analyzer:
^ Check the condition of the battery and its state-of-charge:
- When the vehicle arrives at your dealership
- During the PDI
- During scheduled battery maintenance while the vehicle is in storage
- Before final delivery to the customer
NOTE:
Keep a printout of every battery test. Your warranty claim may be rejected unless you show that the
battery was properly maintained.
GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station:
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Smart, fast, and safe battery charging
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ Jump start mode supplies up to 250 amps
Customer Scheduled Maintenance
ED-18 Battery Analyzer:
^ Check the condition of the battery and its state-of-charge when a vehicle comes in for scheduled
maintenance.
GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station:
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Smart, fast, and safe battery charging
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
ED-18 Battery Analyzer and GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station:
^ When the ED-18 or GR8 displays Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, it provides a 10-digit
code that must be included with the warranty
claim. See WARRANTY COVERAGE for more information.
Used Vehicle Sale
ED-18 Battery Analyzer:
^ Check the condition of the battery and its state-of-charge:
- During vehicle inspection
- During scheduled battery maintenance when the vehicle is in storage
- Before final delivery to the customer GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station:
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Smart, fast, and safe battery charging
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ Jump start mode supplies up to 250 amps.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6727
USING THE ED-18 BATTERY ANALYZER
NOTE:
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the ED-18 user's manual.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the ED-18 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
^ ED-18 version 2 is shown. Version 1 is similar.
1. Connect the leads to the battery's positive and negative terminals.
2. Use the arrow keys to select ENGLISH, then press Enter.
3. Use the arrow keys to select BATTERY, then press Enter.
4. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6728
5. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
6. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE: All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select
another battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the ED-18 analyzer result
may be wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
8. Measure the battery temperature by placing the analyzer's IR temperature sensor within 1 to 2
inches of the top or side of the battery. (The arrow on
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6729
the top of the analyzer's housing indicates the sensor's location.) When the measured temperature
on the display stabilizes, press Enter.
9. The analyzer displays the battery's current condition under RESULTS. The screen below shows
one of four possible battery conditions, the battery's
measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that
represents the battery's condition.
10. Here are the four possible battery conditions:
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge, 85% of its capacity, and requires no
action.
^ GR8 Diagnostic Needed - The battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), and the
condition of the battery is unknown. Use the GR8 to charge the battery and properly diagnose it.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6730
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is an internal problem with the battery. Replace it.
11. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the analyzer. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC MODE
NOTE:
^ Use the GR8 diagnostic mode when the ED-18 indicates GR8 DIAGNOSTIC NEEDED.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual;
besides the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online.
Select GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6731
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and that the GR8 is updated to the most current
software. The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim
may not be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for
more information.
1. Plug in the GR8.
2. Connect the leads to the battery's positive and negative terminals.
3. Use the arrow keys to select ENGLISH, then press Enter.
4. Use the arrow keys to select DIAGNOSTIC, then press Enter.
5. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6732
6. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the GR8 result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
10. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6733
11. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically starts charging
the battery and diagnosing it.
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
12. After the GR8 completes its diagnosis, it displays the battery's current condition. The screen
shows one of three possible battery conditions, the
battery's measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph
that represents the battery's condition.
13. Here are the three possible battery conditions:
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge and requires no action.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6734
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is a problem with the battery. Replace it.
14. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6735
USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC STATION - ED-18 BATTERY TEST FUNCTION
NOTE:
^ The ED-18 battery test function in the GR8 should be used only when your ED-18 is out of
service.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual besides
the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online. Select
GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select Honda GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the GR8 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
1. Plug in the GR8.
2. Connect the leads to the battery's positive and negative terminals.
3. Use the arrow keys to select ENGLISH, then press Enter.
4. Use the arrow keys to select OPTIONS, then press Enter.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6736
5. Use the arrow keys to select ED-18 Test, then press Enter.
6. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
7. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6737
10. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the battery test result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
11. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
12. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically changes to its
diagnostic feature. A screen stating CHARGING RECOMMENDED. DO YOU WANT TO
CONTINUE?" appears. Select Yes. After the battery is charged and diagnosed, go to step 13.
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6738
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
13. The tester displays the battery's current condition. The screen shows one of three possible
battery conditions, the battery's measured voltage, and the
CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that represents the battery's condition.
14. Here are the three possible battery conditions:
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70 percent of its charge and requires no action.
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is a problem with the battery. Replace it.
15. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Battery Replacement - Original Equipment Battery Limited Warranty (Factory-Installed Battery or
AHM Parts Battery)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6739
Operation Number: 710100
Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour
Symptom Code: 07002
DTC: Enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic Trouble Code fields in the warranty
claim.
Warranty Requirements
^ Only batteries that are Original Equipment (factory-installed) or supplied by AHM Parts are
covered by the Original Equipment Battery Limited Warranty.
^ No battery warranty claim will be accepted without the 10-digit test code from the ED-18 Battery
Analyzer or the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station.
^ Enter the 10-digit test code into the Warranty Claim DTC fields one and two.
^ The battery tester print-out stating Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace must be attached to the
related repair order or the warranty claim will not be approved.
^ All batteries replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag attached to it.
^ If you have a battery under warranty that needs replacement for a non-electrical defect (like a
cracked case) and the battery tester does not display Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, contact
your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) for help.
*^ The battery claim will be returned to your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2081 if the
tester printout does not state Replace Battery or Bad
Cell Replace.
^ A battery claim will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2082 if the
technician entered the CCA (from the ED-18 Rating field or the GR8 Test Info field) that does not
match the factory-installed battery or the AHM Parts replacement battery CCA. Make sure the CCA
matches the model and model year on the iN (Interactive Network). Go to Service > Service Library
> Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ The ED-18 and GR8 must have the most current software version. Honda policy states that you
must update your tools within 3 days of being notified that an update is available. A battery claim
will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2083 if a repair order (RO) date is
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6740
7 days or later after the software activation date for the latest tester software. See REQUIRED
TOOLS for more information about the current software version and how to update your tools. You
can also check the software version active dates on the iN. Go to Service > Service Library >
Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ All Honda 12-volt batteries are lead-acid (flooded type). No other battery types are accepted. If
you try to submit a claim with a battery that was not tested as flooded, the claim will be returned to
your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2084. See step 6 of USING THE ED-18 BATTERY
TESTER or step 9 of USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC STATION - ED-18 BATTERY TEST
FUNCTION for how to test the battery.*
ED-18 and GR8 battery test codes are used for product research and warranty validation. Some of
the information gathered is:
- Tool type
- Software version
- Test date
- Test results:
^ Battery voltage
^ CCA results
^ Battery condition
^ Battery temperature
- Tech-entered information:
^ Battery CCA
^ Battery type
Unsold New Vehicles
The dealer is responsible for testing and charging batteries when the vehicle first arrives at the
dealership and while in dealer inventory. Testing and charging to maintain the battery in a new and
unsold vehicle cannot be claimed under warranty. If you let a good battery sit discharged, and it is
damaged from poor maintenance, this is not a defect, and the replacement is not covered by
warranty.
If your dealership receives a new vehicle (less than 2 weeks since delivery) with a defective battery
(your ED-18 or GR8 states Replace Battery or Bad Cell, plus the 10-digit code), you can file a
warranty claim. You must show the printout from the ED18 or GR8 and the vehicle delivery
document (bill of lading) to your DPSM and request their approval of claim error 3050, No Warranty
- In Stock Battery.
You are required to test the battery during the PDI and at final delivery. Record the 10-digit test
code created by the ED-i8 or GR8 in the applicable places of the Service History booklet, and place
a printout of the tester results in the vehicle file. See RECORD KEEPING in Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers, for more information.
Acceptable printouts must have this information:
^ A test date matching the PDI or final delivery date
^ The correct CCA value for the battery tested
^ A Good Battery test result
^ VIN (written by tech on printout)
Customer-Owned Vehicles From 0 to 90 Days
Warranty claim error code 3055 was created for battery replacement claims within 90 days of
delivery to the customer. It can be cleared only by a DPSM. For your DPSM to override warranty
claim error code 3055, you need to provide this documentation:
^ The initial PDI battery test printout that matches the PDI date or the new arrival battery test
printout and the vehicle delivery document (bill of lading), lists the correct CCA rating, and shows
the battery condition as Good Battery.
^ The Final Inspection that matches the date of the vehicle delivery, lists the correct CCA rating,
and shows the battery condition as Good Battery.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6741
^ The latest battery test that shows Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace. Use the 10-digit code
from this test when submitting the warranty claim.
Customer-Owned Vehicles From 91 Days to 3 Years
All battery warranty claims need an ED-18 or GR8 test code included under the DTC (Diagnostic
Trouble Code) field. Any claims submitted without a code will be rejected, and test codes are
audited for accuracy. Attach the ED-18 or GR8 tester printout that states Replace Battery or Bad
Cell - Replace. If your claim is rejected with the claim error codes 2080 or 2081, refer to these code
explanations:
^ 2080 - Battery test code required. Enter the 10-digit code from the ED-18 or GR8 in the DTC field
and resubmit.
^ 2081 - Good battery or invalid battery code. This code is created when you submit a 10-digit code
that indicates a Good Battery, Charge & Retest, or
an invalid code was entered.
Refer to the owner's manual or current Service Operations Manual for warranty coverage. Each
defective battery replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag securely attached to it. If
you need to replace a battery because of a non-electrical problem (for example, the case is
cracked) but the ED-18 or GR8 reads that the battery is good, contact your DPSM for help.
Warranty Coverage
Enter the warranty claim information listed, and the full dealer net amount. The parts and labor
reimbursement is calculated according to the following tables after you submit the warranty claim.
2005-10 Model Year Vehicles
*Batteries in 2005-10 model year vehicles are covered in full for parts and labor with no mileage
limit for 36 months.*
2004 Model Year and Earlier
See section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Parts Warranty - Replacement Battery Limited Warranty (Customer paid at a Honda dealership for
an AHM Parts battery)
Operation Number: 000005
Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour
Defect Code: 862
Symptom Code: 07002
DTC: Enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic Trouble Code fields in the warranty
claim.
Refer to the Warranty Requirements under Battery Replacement - Original Equipment Battery
Limited Warranty.
Warranty Coverage
Enter and submit a parts warranty claim with the information listed and the full dealer net amount.
The parts and labor reimbursement is calculated according to the schedule below after the
warranty claim is submitted.
Replacement Batteries Sold On or After November 1, 2004
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 6742
Batteries are covered for 100 months, with full coverage for the first 36 months in service and
prorated between the 37th and 100th month of service as listed in the table.
Replacement Batteries Sold Between February 1, 2000, and October 31, 2004
See Section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Specifications > Mitsubishi Alternator
Alternator: Specifications Mitsubishi Alternator
Output Amperage, Amps .....................................................................................................................
............................................................................... 70 Coil Resistance, Ohms @ 68°F ......................
.............................................................................................................................................................
3.4-3.8
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Specifications > Mitsubishi Alternator > Page 6748
Alternator: Specifications Nippondenso Alternator
Output Amperage, Amps .....................................................................................................................
............................................................................... 70 Coil Resistance, Ohms @ 68°F ......................
..............................................................................................................................................................
..... 2.3
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6749
Alternator: Locations
Left Side Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Alternator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6752
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6753
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6754
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6755
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6756
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6757
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6758
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6759
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6760
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Alternator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6792
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6793
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6794
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6795
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6796
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6797
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6798
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6799
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6800
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6801
Alternator: Electrical Diagrams
Charging System- Mitsubishi Type (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6802
Charging System- Mitsubishi Type (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6803
Charging System- Nippondenso Type (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6804
Charging System- Nippondenso Type (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Clutch Switch: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Clutch Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Hitachi Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Clutch Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6811
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Mitsuba Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Clutch Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6812
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Nippondenso Starters
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Lock > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Lock: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Lock > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch > Page 6817
Ignition Lock: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Exacta Code Key Cutter
BULLETIN NO. 88-012
ISSUE DATE AUG 8, 1994
MODEL ALL
APPLICABLE TO ALL
FILE UNDER SPECIAL TOOLS
Exacta Code Key Cutter
(Supersedes 88-012, "Code Key Cutter," dated March 18, 1988)
The Exacta Code Key Cutter, Manufactured by IIco Unican Co. is available from American Honda
to meet your minimum key cutting requirements. For use and care, follow the manufacturer's
instructions included with the Code Key Cutter Base Kit.
Features of the Exacta Code Key Cutter:
PARTS INFORMATION
Code Key Cutter Base Kit: H/C 2942548, TIN 07JAB-001000A
45-Degree Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit: H/C 2942886, TIN 07JAB-001002A
47-Degree Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit: H/C 2942555, T/N 07JAB-001001A
1994 Passport Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit: H/C 4447587, P/N 07RAB-001030A
Note
For Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit contents, and model application, refer to the Application Chart.
ORDERING INFORMATION
^ The Exacta Code Key Cutter Base Kit and Accessory Kits are available from American Honda
using your normal parts ordering procedures. The kits will be shipped to you directly from the
manufacturer. If you need to order individual replacement parts, or if items are missing from your
shipment, contact IIco Unican Co. at (800) 334-1381, and ask for the American Honda sales
representative. Refer to the Application Chart for IIco Unican part numbers.
^ Key blanks do not come with the kits ordered from American Honda; refer to your Parts
Reference Guide for key blanks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Lock > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch > Page 6818
^ If you are using a Curtis Key Cutter and need parts or information, contact:
Curtis Industries, Inc. 34999 Curtis Blvd., Eastlake, OH 44094-4899 (216) 951-2400.
APPLICATION CHART
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Lock > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 6819
Ignition Lock: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system
disarming and arming procedures. On models
equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system
disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 4.
Disconnect ignition switch connectors, then remove steering column covers. 5. Remove column
holder mounting bolts and nuts, then lower steering column assembly. 6. Center punch each of two
shear screw heads, then use suitable drill and drill bit to remove screw heads and the switch. 7.
Install new switch without ignition key inserted. 8. Hand tighten shear screws, then insert ignition
key and check for proper operation of wheel lock. 9. Tighten shear screws until hex heads twist off.
10. Raise steering column assembly, then install column holder mounting bolts and nuts. 11.
Reconnect switch connectors. 12. Position switch wiring and install steering column covers. 13.
Install dashboard lower cover and knee bolster. 14. On models equipped with airbag system, refer
to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures. On models
equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system
disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Key: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Specifications > Hitachi
Starter Motor: Specifications Hitachi
Brush Spring Tension, Oz. ..................................................................................................................
............................................................................ 56.3
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Specifications > Hitachi > Page 6833
Starter Motor: Specifications 1.0 KW Power Rating
Power Rating, kW ................................................................................................................................
................................................................................ 1 Brush Spring Tension, Oz. ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
65-83 Maximum Load, Amps ...............................................................................................................
...................................................................................... 400 Normal Engine Cranking, RPM .............
..............................................................................................................................................................
............ 100
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Specifications > Hitachi > Page 6834
Starter Motor: Specifications 1.2 KW Power Rating
Power Rating, kW ................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 1.2 Brush Spring Tension, Oz. ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
65-83 Maximum Load, Amps ...............................................................................................................
...................................................................................... 400 Normal Engine Cranking, RPM .............
..............................................................................................................................................................
............ 100
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Specifications > Hitachi > Page 6835
Starter Motor: Specifications 1.4 KW Power Rating
Power Rating, kW ................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 1.4 Brush Spring Tension, Oz. ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
56-63 Maximum Load, Amps ...............................................................................................................
...................................................................................... 400 Normal Engine Cranking, RPM .............
..............................................................................................................................................................
............ 100
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6836
Starter Motor: Locations
Right Side Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters
Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection Hitachi Starters
Ensure air temperature is between 59-100°F before testing.
1. Connect suitable battery-starter tester according to manufacturer's instructions.
Fig. 4 Distributor 2-P Connector Location
2. Disconnect 2-P connector from distributor, Fig. 4. 3. Press clutch pedal to floor and turn ignition
switch to Start position. If starter does not crank engine, check battery condition, battery positive
wire,
ground and wire connections for looseness or corrosion.
4. If starter still does not crank engine, bypass ignition switch circuit as follows:
a. Disconnect black/white wire from solenoid terminal on starter. b. Connect jumper wire from
battery positive terminal to solenoid terminal. c. If starter cranks engine, check for open in
black/white wire circuit between starter and ignition switch. If circuit is satisfactory, check
connectors and ignition switch.
d. On models with automatic transaxle, check neutral safety switch and connector. e. On models
with manual transaxle, check starter relay, clutch interlock switch and connectors.
5. If starter still does not crank engine, remove and diagnose for internal problems. 6. Check
voltage and current draw, then compare as follows:
a. Cranking voltage should be no less than 8 volts and current draw should not be more than 400
amps. b. Engine speed when cranking should be above 100 RPM. If engine speed is not at least
100 RPM, check for loose battery or starter terminals,
worn starter brushes, open circuit in commuter segments, dirty or damaged helical spline or drive
gear, and defective drive gear overrunning clutch.
7. Check for starter disengagement as follows:
a. On models with manual transaxle, press clutch pedal to floor. b. Turn ignition switch to Start and
release to Run. c. If starter drive gear hangs up on flywheel or flex plate, check solenoid plunger
and switch for malfunction or drive gear assembly for dirty or
damaged overrunning clutch.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6839
Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection Mistuba Starters
Ensure air temperature is between 59-100°F before testing.
1. Connect suitable battery-starter tester according to manufacturers instructions. 2. Disconnect
2-P connector from distributor. 3. On models with manual transaxle, press clutch pedal to floor. 4.
Turn ignition switch to Start position. If starter does not crank engine, check battery condition,
battery positive wire, ground and wire connections
for looseness or corrosion.
5. If starter still does not crank engine, bypass ignition switch circuit as follows:
a. Disconnect black/white wire from solenoid terminal on starter. b. Connect a jumper wire from
battery positive terminal to solenoid terminal. c. If starter cranks engine, check for an open in
black/white wire circuit between starter and ignition switch. If circuit is satisfactory, check
connectors and ignition switch.
d. On models with automatic transaxle, check neutral safety switch and connector. e. On models
with manual transaxle, check starter relay, clutch interlock switch and connectors.
6. If starter still does not crank engine, remove and diagnose for internal problems. 7. Check
voltage and current draw. Cranking voltage on all starters should be no less than 8 volts and
current draw should be no more than 400 amps. 8. Check for starter disengagement as follows:
a. On models with manual transaxle, press clutch pedal to floor. b. Turn ignition switch to Start and
release to Run. c. If starter drive gear hangs up on flywheel or flex plate, check solenoid plunger
and switch for malfunction or drive gear assembly for dirty or
damaged overrunning clutch.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6840
Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection Nippondenso Starters
Ensure air temperature is between 59-100°F before testing.
1. Connect a suitable battery-starter tester according to manufacturers instructions.
Fig. 12 Distributor 2-P Connector Location
2. Disconnect 2-P connector from distributor, Fig. 12.. 3. On models with manual transaxle, press
clutch pedal to floor. 4. Turn ignition switch to Start position. If starter does not crank engine, check
battery condition, battery positive wire, ground and wire connections
for looseness or corrosion.
5. If starter still does not crank engine, bypass ignition switch circuit as follows:
a. Disconnect black/white wire from solenoid terminal on starter. b. Connect a jumper wire from
battery positive terminal to solenoid terminal. c. If starter cranks engine, check for an open in
black/white wire circuit between starter and ignition switch. If circuit is satisfactory, check
connectors and ignition switch.
d. On models with automatic transaxle, check neutral safety switch and connector. e. On models
with manual transaxle, check starter relay, clutch interlock switch and connectors.
6. If starter still does not crank engine, remove and diagnose for internal problems. 7. Check
voltage and current draw. Cranking voltage on all starters should be no less than 8 volts and
current draw should be no more than 400 amps. 8. Engine speed when cranking on both reduction
gear and direct drive starters should be above 100 RPM. If engine speed is not at least 100 RPM,
check for loose battery or starter terminals, worn starter brushes, open circuit in commuter
segments, dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear, and defective drive gear overrunning
clutch.
9. Check for starter disengagement as follows:
a. On models with manual transaxle, press clutch pedal to floor. b. Turn ignition switch to Start and
release to Run. c. If starter drive gear hangs up on flywheel or flex plate, check solenoid plunger
and switch for malfunction or drive gear assembly for dirty or
damaged overrunning clutch.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 6841
Starter Motor: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then wait at least three minutes before continuing procedure.
3. Disconnect positive battery cable. 4. On all models, disconnect all electrical leads at starter. 5.
Remove starter mounting bolts, then the starter. 6. Reverse procedure to install, torque starter
mounting bolts to 32 ft. lbs. 7. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer
to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Relay > Component Information > Locations
Starter Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Relay > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Hitachi Starters
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
Fig. 5 Starter Relay Terminal Locations
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 5. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Relay > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6847
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Mitsuba Starters
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
Fig. 10 Starter Relay Terminal Locations
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 10. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Relay > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6848
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Nippondenso Starters
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
Fig. 13 Starter Motor Terminal Locations
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 13. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Solenoid > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters
Starter Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Hitachi Starters
Fig. 6 Starter Motor Terminal Locations
1. Check hold in coil for continuity between S terminal and ground, Fig. 6. Continuity should exist.
2. Check pull in coil for continuity between S and M terminals. Continuity should exist. 3. If solenoid
does not operate as specified, replace solenoid.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Solenoid > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6853
Starter Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Mitsuba Starters
Fig. 11 Starter Motor Terminal Locations
1. Check hold in coil for continuity between S terminal and ground, Fig. 1. Continuity should exist.
2. Check pull in coil for continuity between S and M terminals. Continuity should exist. 3. If solenoid
does not operate as specified, replace solenoid.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Solenoid > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Hitachi Starters > Page 6854
Starter Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Nippondenso Starters
Fig. 14 Starter Relay Terminal Locations
1. Check hold in coil for continuity between S terminal and ground as shown in Fig. 14. Continuity
should exist.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6860
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6861
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6862
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6863
Fuse: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6864
Fuse: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Application and ID Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6867
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6868
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6869
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6870
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6871
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6872
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6873
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6874
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > SRS Fuse Block
Fuse Block: Locations SRS Fuse Block
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > SRS Fuse Block > Page 6879
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > SRS Fuse Block > Page 6880
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > SRS Fuse Block > Page 6881
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse Block: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6884
Fuse Block: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6885
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6886
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6887
Fuse Block: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6888
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Photo 23
Multiple Junction Connector: Locations Photo 23
Left Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Photo 23 > Page 6893
Multiple Junction Connector: Locations Photo 54
Left Kick Panel
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Photo 23 > Page 6894
Multiple Junction Connector: Locations Photo 63
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Relay Box: Locations Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Bottom Of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6900
Relay Box: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6901
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6902
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6903
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6904
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6905
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6906
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6907
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page
6910
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page
6911
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page
6912
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page
6913
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page
6914
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Relay Box: Locations Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Bottom Of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6919
Relay Box: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6920
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6921
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6922
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6923
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6924
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6925
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6926
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6929
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6930
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6931
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6932
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information
> Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6933
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Under-Dash
Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Under-Dash
Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6939
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Under-Dash
Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6940
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Under-Dash
Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6941
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Under-Dash
Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6942
Fuse: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > Under-Dash
Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6943
Fuse: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID > Under
Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Application and ID Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID > Under
Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6946
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID > Under
Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6947
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID > Under
Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6948
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID > Under
Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6949
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID > Under
Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6950
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID > Under
Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6951
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID > Under
Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6952
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID > Under
Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6953
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations > SRS
Fuse Block
Fuse Block: Locations SRS Fuse Block
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations > SRS
Fuse Block > Page 6958
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations > SRS
Fuse Block > Page 6959
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations > SRS
Fuse Block > Page 6960
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse Block: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6963
Fuse Block: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6964
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6965
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6966
Fuse Block: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6967
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Locations > Photo 23
Multiple Junction Connector: Locations Photo 23
Left Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Locations > Photo 23 > Page 6972
Multiple Junction Connector: Locations Photo 54
Left Kick Panel
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Locations > Photo 23 > Page 6973
Multiple Junction Connector: Locations Photo 63
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Relay Box: Locations Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Bottom Of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6979
Relay Box: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6980
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6981
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6982
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6983
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6984
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6985
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6986
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6989
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6990
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6991
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6992
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 6993
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical
Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Relay Box: Locations Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Bottom Of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical
Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6998
Relay Box: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical
Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 6999
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical
Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 7000
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical
Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 7001
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical
Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 7002
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Side Of Engine Compartment
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical
Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 7003
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical
Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 7004
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Photo
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > Electrical
Load Detector (ELD) Unit > Page 7005
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 7008
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 3)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 7009
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 7010
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 7011
Relay Box: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box > Page 7012
Fuse/Relay Information-Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2 Of 2)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
Applies To: ALL
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
The title description was revised.*
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift:
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100
Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140
Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set:
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 7022
Defect Code: 07406
Symptom Code: 03602
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Diagnostic Trouble Code:
To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The bracket counts as one weight.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 7023
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 7024
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 7025
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 7026
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 7027
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted.
5. Adjust the camber as needed.
Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 7028
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension
^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires.
^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 7029
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 7030
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
Applies To: ALL
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
The title description was revised.*
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift:
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100
Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140
Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set:
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
7036
Defect Code: 07406
Symptom Code: 03602
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Diagnostic Trouble Code:
To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The bracket counts as one weight.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
7037
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
7038
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
7039
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
7040
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
7041
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted.
5. Adjust the camber as needed.
Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
7042
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension
^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires.
^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
7043
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
7044
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7045
Alignment: By Symptom
Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502
Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
Applies To: ALL
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
The title description was revised.*
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift:
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100
Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140
Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set:
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7046
Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652
Defect Code: 07406
Symptom Code: 03602
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Diagnostic Trouble Code:
To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The bracket counts as one weight.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7047
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7048
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7049
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7050
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7051
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted.
5. Adjust the camber as needed.
Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7052
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension
^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires.
^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7053
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7054
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502
Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
Applies To: ALL
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
The title description was revised.*
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift:
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100
Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7055
Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set:
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652
Defect Code: 07406
Symptom Code: 03602
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Diagnostic Trouble Code:
To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7056
to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the
maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives
in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The bracket counts as one weight.
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7057
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7058
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7059
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7060
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted.
5. Adjust the camber as needed.
Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7061
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension
^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires.
^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7062
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 7063
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Front Wheel
Alignment
Alignment: Specifications Front Wheel Alignment
Caster Angle, Degrees
Limits ...................................................................................................................................................
................................................ + 1/6 to +2 1/6 Desired .......................................................................
........................................................................................................................................ +1 1/6
Camber Angle, Degrees
Limits ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................. -1 to +1 Desired .....................................................................
.................................................................................................................................................. 0
Toe-In, Inch .........................................................................................................................................
................................................................................. 0 Wheel Turning Angle, Degrees
Inner Wheel .........................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 41 Outer Wheel .............................................................
.......................................................................................................................................... 33 1/2
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Front Wheel
Alignment > Page 7066
Alignment: Specifications Rear Wheel Alignment
Camber Angle, Degrees
Limits ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................. -1 1/3 to + 2/3 Desired ......................................................................
.............................................................................................................................................. -1/3
Toe-In, Inch .........................................................................................................................................
............................................................................ 0.08
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Page 7067
Alignment: Service Precautions
CAUTION: When fasteners are removed, always reinstall them at the same location from which
they were removed. If a fastener needs to be replaced, use the correct part number fastener for
that application. If the correct part number fastener is not available, a fastener of equal size and
strength (or stronger) may be used. Fasteners that are not reused, and those requiring thread
locking compound will be called out. The correct torque value must be used when installing
fasteners that require it. If the above conditions are not followed, parts or system damage could
result.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description
Alignment: Description and Operation General Description
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
"Front End Alignment" refers to the angular relationship between the front wheels, the front
suspension attaching parts and the ground. Proper front end alignment must be maintained in
order to insure efficient steering, good directional stability and to prevent abnormal tire wear. The
most important factors of front end alignment are wheel toe-in, wheel camber and axle caster.
CAMBER:
Camber is the vertical tilting inward or outward of the front wheels. When the wheels tilt outward at
the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is negative
(-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle (1). If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
CASTER:
This illustration shows view from the side of the vehicle. Caster (1) is the vertical tilting of the wheel
axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is
positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the short and long arm type suspension you cannot
see a caster angle without a special instrument, but if you look straight down from the top of the
upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle
other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle, the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead
(toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint center line.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 7070
TOE-IN:
This illustration shows view from the top of the vehicle. Toe-in is the measured amount the front
wheels are turn in. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a degree. Toe-in is
measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The purpose of toe-in is
to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections of the wheel support
system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in results in excessive toe-in
and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front end alignment procedure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 7071
Alignment: Description and Operation Camber
Camber is the inward or outward tilting of the front wheels from the vertical. When the wheels tilt
outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is
negative (-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle. If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 7072
Alignment: Description and Operation Caster
Caster is the tilting of the wheel axis either forward or backward from the vertical (when viewed
from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the
short and long arm type suspension you cannot see a caster angle without a special instrument,
but if you look straight down from the top of the upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do
not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle,
the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead (toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint
center line.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 7073
Alignment: Description and Operation Toe-In
Toe-in is the turning of the front wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a
degree. Toe-in is measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The
purpose of toe-in is to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections
of the wheel support system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in
results in excessive toe-in and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front
end alignment procedure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
Page 7074
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Checks
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Checks
INSPECTION
Before making any adjustments affecting caster, camber or toe-in, the following front end
inspection should be made. 1. Inspect the tires for proper inflation pressure. 2. Inspect the front
wheel bearings for proper adjustment. 3. inspect the ball joints and tie rod ends. If excessive
looseness is noted, correct before adjusting. 4. Inspect the wheel and tires for run-out. 5. Inspect
the trim height. If not within specifications, the correction must be made before adjusting caster. 6.
Inspect the steering unit for looseness at the frame. 7. Inspect shock absorbers for leaks or any
noticeable noise. 8. Inspect the control arms or stabilizer bar attachment for looseness. 9. Inspect
the front end alignment using alignment equipment. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
10. Alignment must be performed on a level surface.
- Check that the suspension is not modified.
- Check the tire size and tire pressure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Checks > Page 7077
Alignment: Service and Repair Alignment
Camber
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting camber angles. Camber angles are
not adjustable, however, the following procedure may be used to ensure camber is within
specifications.
Fig. 1 Camber Angle Inspection
1. Remove spindle nut and install suitable camber gauge and adapter, Fig. 1, with wheels in
straight-ahead position. 2. Note gauge reading with bubble centered on the gauge. If camber is not
within specifications, inspect suspension components for damage and
repair as necessary, then recheck camber.
Caster
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting caster angles.
1. Check steering wheel angle. If significantly off center, it may be necessary to remove steering
wheel and reposition it on splines. Turn steering
wheel to straight ahead position.
2. Check caster angle. 3. If caster angle is not within specifications, inspect suspension
components for damage and repair as necessary, then recheck caster.
Toe-In
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting toe-in.
1. Center steering wheel, then loosen tie rod locknuts. 2. Turn both tie rods in the same direction
until both front wheels are positioned straight ahead. 3. Adjust toe to specifications by turning both
tie rods in the same direction, then tighten tie rod locknuts.
Camber
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting camber angles. Camber angles are
not adjustable, however, the following procedure may be used to ensure camber is within
specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Checks > Page 7078
Fig. 1 Camber Angle Inspection
1. Remove spindle nut and install suitable camber gauge and adapter, Fig. 1, with wheels in
straight-ahead position. 2. Note gauge reading with bubble centered on the gauge. If camber is not
within specifications, inspect suspension components for damage and
repair as necessary, then recheck camber.
Toe-In
1. Release parking brake. 2. Before adjustment, note location of compensator arm adjusting bolts.
Fig. 4 Rear Toe-In Adjustment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Checks > Page 7079
3. Loosen adjusting bolt and slide compensator arm in or out, Fig. 4, to adjust toe. 4. Torque
adjusting bolt to 47 ft. lbs.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7085
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7086
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Power Steering load is high.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7087
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Raise spindle nut locking tab,
then remove spindle nut. 3. Remove brake hose bracket mounting bolts. 4. Remove caliper and
position aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose. 5. Remove brake disc
attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching screw holes to push disc
from hub. When tightening
screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent excessively cocking the brake disc.
6. Remove brake disc from knuckle. 7. Remove speed sensor wire bracket, then the speed sensor
from knuckle. 8. Remove tie rod end cotter pin and nut. 9. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod
end remover.
10. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way. 11. Using ball joint
remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent, separate ball joint and lower arm. 12. Remove
upper ball joint shield, then the cotter pin and nut. 13. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm
using suitable ball joint remover. 14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off
driveshaft. 15. Remove hub from steering knuckle using suitable press. 16. Remove knuckle ring,
circlip and splash guard from knuckle. 17. Press out wheel bearing from hub using driver tool No.
07749-0010000, attachment tool No. 07746-0010500 and base tool No. 07GAF-SE00401,
or equivalents.
18. Remove outboard bearing inner race from hub.
Fig. 4 Front Suspension
19. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Fig. 2 for tightening specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair
Power Steering Bleeding: Service and Repair
When a power steering pump or gear has been installed, or an oil line has been disconnected, the
air that has entered the system must be bled out before the vehicle is operated. If air is allowed to
remain in the power steering fluid system, noisy and unsatisfactory operation of the system may
result. When bleeding the system, and any time fluid is added to the power steering system, be
sure to use only automatic transmission fluid labeled "DEXRON-IIE".
1. Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper label and let the fluid settle for at least two minutes. 2.
Start the engine and let it run for a few seconds. Do not turn the steering wheel. Then turn the
engine off. 3. Add fluid if necessary. 4. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid level remains
constant after running the engine. 5. Raise the front end of the vehicle so that the front wheels are
off the ground. 6. Start the engine. Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting
the wheel stops. 7. Add power steering fluid if necessary. 8. Bring down the vehicle, set the
steering wheel at the straight forward position after turning it to its full steer positions 2 or 3 times,
and stop the
engine.
9. Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and refill as required.
10. If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the above
procedure. 11. Inspect:
a. Belt for tightness. b. Pulley for looseness or damage. The pulley should not wobble with the
engine running. c. Hoses so they are not touching any other parts of the vehicle. d. Fluid level and
fill to the proper level.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Fluid > Component
Information > Specifications
Power Steering Fluid: Specifications
Fluid Type ............................................................................................................................................
....................... Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid
Always use Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or
automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Power Steering Pump: > 98-023 > Mar > 98 > Power
Steering Pump - Fluid Leak
Power Steering Pump: Customer Interest Power Steering Pump - Fluid Leak
98-023
March 9, 1998
Applies T0: 1994 - 97 Accord - ALL
1992 - 95 Civic - ALL 1995 - 96 Odyssey - ALL
Leak From the Power Steering Pump
SYMPTOM
Fluid is leaking from the power steering pump between the pump housing and the cover.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The 0-ring between the pump housing and the cover is leaking.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the 0-ring between the pump housing and the cover.
PARTS INFORMATION
0-ring (68.5 x 1.9 mm): P/N 91349-PY3-000, H/C 3676871
Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid: P/N 08206-9002, H/C 3747284
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation number: 512711
Flat rate time: 0.8 hour
Failed part: P/N 91349-PY3-000 H/C 3676871
Defect code: 060
Contention code: B06
Template ID: 98-023A
Skill level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the power steering pump. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate Service Manual.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Power Steering Pump: > 98-023 > Mar > 98 > Power
Steering Pump - Fluid Leak > Page 7107
2. Remove the fours bolts that secure the pump cover to the pump housing, and remove the cover.
3. Remove the old 0-ring. Coat a new 0-ring with clean power steering fluid, and install the new
0-ring onto the pump cover.
4. Align the rollers with the holes in the pump cover, and install the cover. Torque the four mounting
bolts to 20 N.m (14 lb-ft).
5. Reinstall the power steering pump, and adjust the belt tension. Refer to section 17 of the
appropriate service manual.
6. Start the engine, turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock, and check the power steering fluid
level. Add fluid if necessary.
7. Make sure the power steering pump does not leak.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Pump: > 98-023 > Mar > 98 >
Power Steering Pump - Fluid Leak
Power Steering Pump: All Technical Service Bulletins Power Steering Pump - Fluid Leak
98-023
March 9, 1998
Applies T0: 1994 - 97 Accord - ALL
1992 - 95 Civic - ALL 1995 - 96 Odyssey - ALL
Leak From the Power Steering Pump
SYMPTOM
Fluid is leaking from the power steering pump between the pump housing and the cover.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The 0-ring between the pump housing and the cover is leaking.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the 0-ring between the pump housing and the cover.
PARTS INFORMATION
0-ring (68.5 x 1.9 mm): P/N 91349-PY3-000, H/C 3676871
Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid: P/N 08206-9002, H/C 3747284
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation number: 512711
Flat rate time: 0.8 hour
Failed part: P/N 91349-PY3-000 H/C 3676871
Defect code: 060
Contention code: B06
Template ID: 98-023A
Skill level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the power steering pump. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate Service Manual.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Pump: > 98-023 > Mar > 98 >
Power Steering Pump - Fluid Leak > Page 7113
2. Remove the fours bolts that secure the pump cover to the pump housing, and remove the cover.
3. Remove the old 0-ring. Coat a new 0-ring with clean power steering fluid, and install the new
0-ring onto the pump cover.
4. Align the rollers with the holes in the pump cover, and install the cover. Torque the four mounting
bolts to 20 N.m (14 lb-ft).
5. Reinstall the power steering pump, and adjust the belt tension. Refer to section 17 of the
appropriate service manual.
6. Start the engine, turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock, and check the power steering fluid
level. Add fluid if necessary.
7. Make sure the power steering pump does not leak.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7114
Power Steering Pump: Specifications
Air Conditioning
Deflection, Inches [01]:
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.20-0.28 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.26-0.41
Alternator
Deflection, Inches [01]:
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.22-0.31 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.28-0.41
Power Steering
Deflection, Inches [01]:
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.24-0.37 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.31-0.47
[01] -- Measured using 22 ft. lbs. force.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation
Power Steering Pump: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
1. Drain power steering fluid from reservoir. 2. Loosen power steering pump adjusting bolt,
mounting bolts and nuts, then remove power steering belt. 3. Cover alternator with shop towels to
prevent damage from spilled power steering fluid, then disconnect inlet and outlet hoses from
power steering
pump and plug hoses. Take care not to spill fluid on body or parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid at
once.
Fig. 6 Power Steering Pump Removal
4. Remove power steering pump mounting bolt, then remove power steering pump, Fig. 6. Do not
turn steering wheel with pump removed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation > Page 7117
Power Steering Pump: Service and Repair Disassembly After Removal
. Remove power steering pump.
2. Drain steering fluid from pump, then place pump in a suitable vise and remove pulley and nut
using holder tool No. 07725-0030000, or equivalent.
Fig. 20 Exploded View Of Poweering Steering Pump
3. Remove control valve cover and bolts, Fig. 20, then remove spring, control valve and O-rings. 4.
Inspect valve operation as follows:
a. Inspect valve and valve bore for wear and damage, then slip valve back into housing and ensure
valve moves in smoothly. If valve is damaged
or movement is rough, then replace valve.
b. Attach a hose to end of valve and submerge into power steering fluid, then blow air in the hose.
If air bubbles leak through at less than 14.2
psi, then replace valve.
c. Replacement valves must fit precisely into bore and must have same identification mark as old
valve.
5. Remove inlet joint and O-ring, then remove pump cover and O-ring. 6. Remove pump cam ring
from pump housing, then remove pump rotor and vanes. Replace pump as an assembly if pump
cam ring, pump rotor
or rotor vanes are defective.
7. Remove two rollers from side plate, then remove side plate, spring and O-rings. Replace pump
as an assembly if side plate is defective. 8. Remove circlip, then remove drive shaft assembly from
pump housing using a suitable plastic hammer. Pump components are aluminum and
easily damaged.
9. Remove seal spacer and oil seal.
10. Inspect pump housing for damage on sealing surfaces. 11. Inspect bearing by rotating outer
race slowly. If any play or roughness is felt, replace bearing using hub replacement tool No.
07GAF-SD40700, or
equivalent.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation > Page 7118
Power Steering Pump: Service and Repair Assembly
1. Coat oil seal with steering grease, then install oil seal and seal spacer by hand. 2. Install drive
shaft assembly using driver attachment tool No. 07947-6340500, or equivalent, then install circlip
with tapered side facing up. 3. Coat side plate grooves with power steering fluid, then place O-rings
on side plate. 4. Install preload spring into housing, then place 4.5 × 49.8 mm roller in 4.5 mm hole
of pump housing. 5. Install side plate over roller and onto housing, then place 5 × 26.8 mm roller in
5 mm hole of side plate. 6. Install rotor to drive shaft with degrees mark facing up, then place vanes
in rotor. Vanes must be installed with rounded end in contact with
sliding surface of cam ring.
7. Install cam ring over rollers with degrees mark facing up, then apply clean power steering fluid to
cam ring and vanes. 8. Install O-ring on pump cover, then align rollers with pump cover roller set
holes. 9. Align projection on pump hosing with projection on pump cover, then install cover and
tighten bolts to specification.
10. Install O-ring onto inlet joint, then install inlet joint to housing. 11. Coat O-rings and control
valve with P/S fluid, then install O-ring into housing groves and control valve, spring and control
valve cover onto
housing. Tighten bolts to specification.
12. Place pump in suitable vise, then install pulley and nut. 13. Using holder tool No.
07725-0030000, or equivalent, tighten nut to specification. 14. Turn pulley and inspect pump for
proper operation.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Sensors and Switches - Steering > Power Steering
Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations
Center Rear Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Sensors and Switches - Steering > Power Steering
Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7123
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Diagrams
For Connector Views refer to "Powertrain Management : Diagrams".
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Sensors and Switches - Steering > Power Steering
Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7124
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
This signals the Engine Control Module (ECM) when the Power Steering load is high.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Sensors and Switches - Steering > Power Steering
Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7125
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Specifications
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Dash Sensor Mounting Bolts ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 16 Driver Side Air Bag Assembly To Steering Wheel Bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 7.2
Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting Nuts & Bolts ..................................................................................
............................................................................. 7.2 SRS Unit Mounting Bolts .................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 7.2 Steering Wheel To Column Steering Shaft Nut ..........................................................................
....................................................................................... 36
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Specifications > Page 7130
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
SRS connectors automatically short when disconnected.
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Specifications > Page 7131
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair
The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) must be disarmed prior to disconnecting any electrical
connectors or servicing any system components or items located near SRS electrical connectors.
SRS electrical wiring can be identified by its yellow outer protective coating. To disarm the SRS,
proceed as follows:
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
Fig. 1 Driver Air Bag Disarming
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
will allow air bag system back-up circuit capacitor to discharge.
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1 5. Remove glove compartment and access panel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Specifications > Page 7132
Fig. 4 Passenger Air Bag Disarming
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 4.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Specifications > Page 7133
Fig. 12 Fuse Panel/SRS Connector
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 12, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, A SYSTEM MALFUNCTION IS
INDICATED. Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag
Systems/Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Key Reminder Switch > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Key Reminder Switch: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied at all times to the seat belt reminder/key-ON beeper circuit in the
integrated control unit. When you turn ON the ignition key switch the integrated control unit senses
ground. If you open the driver's door, the door switch closes, causing the beeper to sound until the
door is closed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Steering Column Lock > Component
Information > Locations
Steering Column Lock: Locations
Right Side Of Steering Column
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
Precautions
Steering Gear: Service Precautions
WARNING:
- To avoid rendering the SRS inoperative, which could lead to personal injury or death in the event
of severe frontal collision, all SRS service work must be performed by an authorized mechanic.
- Improper service procedures, including incorrect removal and installation of the SRS, could lead
to personal injury caused by unintentional activation of the air bags.
- Do not bump the SRS unit. Otherwise, the system may fail in cause of a collision, or the ai bags
may deploy when the ignition switch is ON (II).
- All SRS electrical wiring harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Related components are
located in the steering column, front console, dashboard lower panel, and in the dashboard above
the glove box. Do not use electrical test equipment on these circuits.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering
Steering Gear: Service and Repair Power Steering
Removal
1. Using solvent and brush wash any oil and dirt off the valve body and its lines. Blow dry with
compressed air. 2. Raise the power steering reservoir and disconnect the hose that goes to the oil
cooler.
3. Connect a hose of suitable diameter to the disconnected hose that goes to the oil cooler and put
the hose end in a suitable container.
Caution: Clean up any spilled power steering fluid immediately.
4. Start engine and let idle. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times. 5. When fluid
stops running out of the hose, shut off the engine. Discard the old fluid. 6. Refit the return hose on
the reservoir. 7. Raise front of vehicle and secure on jack stands. 8. Remove the front wheels.
9. Remove the steering joint cover.
10. Lock the steering shaft to stop the shaft from turning. Loosen the upper steering joint bolt and
remove the lower steering join bolt. Move the joint
toward the column.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7145
11. Remove the shift cable holder.
12. Remove the cable bracket and disconnect the shift cable from the shift control shaft.
13. Remove the self-locking nuts and separate the three way catalytic converter.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7146
14. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut. Install the 10mm hex nut on the ball joint. 15. Once the
hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, use SST # 07MAC-SL00200 or equivalent and separate
the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle.
Caution: Take care not to damage the ball joint dust boot.
16. Disconnect the three lines from the valve body unit on the steering gearbox and immediately
seal the hoses AND pipes to prevent contamination.
17. Remove the left tie-rod end, then slide the rack all the way to the right.
18. Remove the steering gearbox mounting bolts.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7147
19. Pull the steering gearbox down to clear the pinion shaft from the bulkhead and remove the
pinion shaft grommet. 20. Move the steering gearbox to the right so the left rack and clears the rear
beam. 21. Hold the steering gearbox and slide the rack all the way to the left, place the left rack
end below the rear beam. 22. Move the steering gearbox to the left and tilt the left side down and
remove it from the car.
Installation
1. Slide the rack all the way to the right. 2. Pass the right side of the steering gearbox above and
through the right side of the rear beam. 3. Raise the left side of the steering gearbox above and
through the left side of the rear beam. 4. Hold the steering gearbox and center the rack with its
strokes.
5. Install the pinion shaft grommet and insert the pinion shaft up through the bulkhead.
6. Install and tighten the gearbox mounting bolts.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7148
7. Connect the fluid lines to the valve body unit.
8. Reconnect the tie-rod ends to the steering knuckles, tighten the castle nut to the specified
torque, and install new cotter pins.
CAUTION: Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to
align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut by loosening.
9. Install the three way catalytic converter with the new gaskets and new self-locking nuts. 10.
Connect the shift linkage.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7149
Manual transmission model:
- Connect the shift rod to the transmission and drive the spring pin with a punch, then install the pin
retainer. Be sure that the projection on the pin retainer is in the hole.
- Install the extension rod on the transmission case.
Automatic transmission model:
- Connect the shift cable end to the shift control shaft, and install the cable bracket.
- Install the cable holder.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7150
11. Center the steering rack with its strokes. 12. Make sure that the cable reel of the SRS is
centered as follows:
- Turn the steering wheel left approx. 1 50 degrees, and check the cable reel position.
- If the cable reel is centered, the yellow gear tooth lines up with the alignment mark on the cover.
- Return the steering wheel right approx. 1 50 degrees to the straight ahead position.
13. Slip the lower end of the steering joint onto the pinion shaft (line up the bolt hole with the
groove around the shaft) and tighten the steering joint
bolts.
NOTE: Connect the steering shaft and pinion with the cable reel and steering rack centered.
- Be sure that the lower steering joint bolt is securely in the groove in the steering gearbox pinion.
- If the steering wheel and rack are not centered, reposition the serrations at the lower end of the
steering joint.
14. Install the steering joint cover with the clamps and clip.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7151
15. Fill the system with recommended power steering fluid and bleed air from the system 16. After
installation, perform the following checks.
- Check the gearbox for leaks.
- Adjust the front toe.
- Check the steering wheel spoke angle. Adjust by turning the right and left tie-rods, if necessary.
NOTE: Turn the right and left tie-rods equally.
Steering Gear Disassembly
1. Remove control valve unit from steering gear as outlined previously. 2. Carefully clamp gear into
vise with soft jaws.
Fig. 3 Exploded View Of Steering Gear
3. Remove tie rod assembly, then the boot band and tube clamps, Fig. 3. 4. Pull dust seals away
from ends of gearbox. 5. Hold steering rack with 19 mm wrench and unscrew rack end with
wrench.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7152
6. Push right end of rack back into cylinder housing so smooth surface that rides against seal will
not be damaged. 7. Loosen rack screw locknut and remove rack guide screw. 8. Remove spring
and rack guide from gear housing. 9. Remove circlip, then the steering pinion assembly.
10. Remove four cylinder housing to gear attaching bolts, then slide housing off rack. 11. Remove
O-ring, back-up ring, steering rack bushing A and cylinder spring. 12. Remove cylinder end seal
from cylinder housing. 13. Remove cylinder seal retainer, cylinder cap and steering rack from gear
housing. 14. Remove retainer washer from gear housing. 15. Check pinion holder for excessive
play or rough movement. If there is excessive play or any rough movement, replace bearing as
follows:
a. Remove gear housing cap from gear housing. b. Remove circlip from pinion holder, then the
pinion holder from gear housing. c. Check needle roller bearings in pinion holder and gear housing
for any damage. If needle bearings are satisfactory, pack with grease. If needle
bearings show damage, replace as a set.
d. Remove pinion lower ball bearing from gear housing. e. Using bearing installation tool No.
07746-0010300, or equivalent, and a hammer, drive new pinion lower ball bearing into gear
housing. f.
Install pinion holder into gear housing, then the circlip with its tapered side facing out.
g. Grease O-ring, then install it in groove of gear housing cap. h. Install gear housing cap.
16. Remove cylinder and seal retainer from steering rack. 17. Remove O-ring, circlip and cylinder
cap from seal retainer. 18. Remove O-rings from cylinder cap, then the bushing stopper ring from
seal retainer. 19. Remove cylinder end seal, then carefully pry piston seal ring and O-ring off rack.
Steering Gear Assembly
1. Install new O-ring on rack. 2. Coat piston seal ring guide with power steering fluid and slide onto
rack, large end first.
Fig. 4 Piston Seal Ring Installation
3. Position new piston seal ring onto piston seal ring guide tool No. 07GAG-SD40100, or
equivalent. Slide seal ring down to large end of tool and
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7153
pull it off into piston groove on top of O-ring, Fig. 4.
4. Coat piston seal ring and inside of special tool with power steering fluid, then carefully slide tool
onto rack and over piston ring. 5. Rotate tool as you move it up and down to seat piston seal ring.
6. Coat new O-rings with grease and install on cylinder cap. 7. Slide cylinder cap onto seal retainer,
then install circlip and O-ring on seal retainer. 8. Grease sliding surface of steering rack bushing B
and install bushing on steering rack with groove of bushing facing steering rack piston. 9. Grease
sliding surfaces of new cylinder end seal and seal slider tool No. 07GAG-SD40300, or equivalent,
then place seal on tool with its grooved
side facing opposite slider.
10. Grease steering rack and install tool. Ensure rack teeth do not face slot in tool. 11. Separate
cylinder end seal from tool, then remove tool from rack. 12. Fit seal retainer on steering rack, then
push rack bushing B toward seal retainer until cylinder end seal is seated in retainer. 13. Fit seal
stopper ring in groove of seal retainer securely, then grease steering rack. 14. Install retainer
washer on gear housing. 15. Place gear housing on work bench and insert seal retainer and
steering rack into gear housing. 16. Coat inside of cylinder with power steering fluid, then slide it
over rack and into gear housing until it seats. 17. Install cylinder spring over rack, then coat rack
bushing A with power steering fluid and install it on spring. 18. Install piston seal ring guide tool No.
07GAG-SD40400, or equivalent, or vinyl tape onto end of steering rack and coat with grease. 19.
Coat inside surface of cylinder with power steering fluid and install cylinder end seal with its
grooved side facing out. 20. Install O-ring and back-up ring on gear housing. 21. Carefully position
cylinder housing on gear housing and loosely install using four bolts. Be careful not to damage end
seal in cylinder housing. 22. Remove vinyl tape or special tool from end of steering rack. 23. While
pushing cylinder housing and gear housing together, tighten to specifications. 24. Install steering
pinion in pinion holder, then the circlip with its tapered side facing out, securely into pinion holder
groove. 25. Install O-ring onto rack guide screw, then coat rack guide with grease. 26. Install rack
guide, spring and rack guide screw on gear housing. 27. Tighten rack guide screw until it
compresses spring and seats against rack guide, then loosen it. 28. Tighten screw to
specifications, then back it off approximately 20 degrees. 29. Install locknut on rack guide screw.
While holding rack guide screw in position, tighten locknut to specifications. 30. Install valve body
unit. 31. Install new lock washer in groove of steering rack. 32. Holding steering rack with a wrench,
tighten to specifications. 33. Stake four sections of lock washer using suitable drift. 34. Apply
steering grease to circumference of rack end housing, then coat rack end groove with suitable
silicone grease. 35. Install boots with tube clamps on rack ends. 36. Install boot bands and bend
both ends of locking tabs. Turn rack from left to right to ensure boots do not twist or bind.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7154
Steering Gear: Service and Repair Manual Steering
Removal and Installation
NOTE: On Air Bag Equipped Models, disable airbag system as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. On vehicles equipped with coded theft
protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for disarming procedures.
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Remove steering joint cover. 3.
Loosen upper steering joint bolt and remove lower steering joint bolt, then move joint toward
column. Lock steering shaft with ignition key to
retain steering shaft in position.
4. On models equipped with manual transaxle, proceed as follows:
a. Remove shift extension from transaxle case. b. Slide boot back at connecting position of gear
shift rod. c. Remove pin retainer and drive out spring pin with punch, then disconnect shift rod.
5. On models equipped with automatic transaxle, proceed as follows:
a. Remove shift cable holder, then the cable bracket. b. Disconnect shift cable from shift control
shaft.
6. Separate three way catalytic converter by removing self-locking nuts. 7. Separate tie rod ball
joint and knuckle using ball joint remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent. 8. Remove left
tie rod end, then slide rack completely to right. 9. Remove gearbox mounting bolts, then pull
gearbox all the way down to clear pinion shaft from bulkhead.
10. Remove pinion shaft grommet, then move gearbox to right so left rack end clears rear beam.
11. Hold gearbox and slide rack completely to left, then place left rack end below rear beam. 12.
Move gearbox to left and tilt left side down to remove from vehicle. 13. Reve4rse procedures to
install, and tighten fasteners to specifications. 14. Rearm airbag system as outlined under
Technician Safety Information. 15. Rearm radio coded theft protection system as outlined under
Vehicle Damage Warnings.
Fig. 5 Rack Guide Screw Adjustment
13. Reverse procedure to install. If necessary, adjust rack guide as follows:
a. Loosen rack guide locknut with suitable tool, Fig. 5. b. Tighten guide screw until it compresses
spring and lightly seats against guide, then loosen screw. c. Tighten screw to specifications, then
back screw off approximately 1/12 turn (30 degrees). d. Hold position of adjusting screw and
tighten locknut to specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 7155
Disassembly
Before disassembling the steering gear, clean gear thoroughly to prevent dirt from entering the unit.
During disassemble, carefully note and label components removed from the main gear unit for
reference during assembly.
1. Clamp steering gear in vise, then remove tie rod end and locknut. 2. Remove boot bands and
tube clamps, then pull boots away from ends of gearbox. 3. Hold rack with suitable wrench and
remove rack end. 4. Remove rack locknut and guide screw, then rack guide spring and guide from
steering gear. 5. Remove pinion boot and dust seal. 6. Remove 35 mm snap ring securing pinion,
then withdraw pinion and bearing assembly. 7. Remove rack, then the rack end bushings from
housing. 8. If necessary, use sharp knife to cut down length of gearbox mounting cushion, then
remove cushion. Use care not to damage paint on cylinder
housing.
Assembly
1. Install gearbox mounting cushion as follows:
a. Apply weatherstrip adhesive to inside of new cushion. b. Install and position 0.80 inch from end
of cylinder housing. After installing cushion, wipe off any excess adhesive that may have dripped
inside cylinder housing.
c. Apply thin coat of grease to inside of rack end bushing. Do not fill bushing slots with grease as
they must remain open to serve as air
passages.
2. Install rack end bushings, aligning round projections on bushings with holes in housing. 3. Install
steering into cylinder housing. 4. Drive steering pinion shaft into gear housing using suitable tools.
5. Install snap rings and seals. 6. Install rack guide and spring, then the guide screw and locknut.
Install new lock washer in groove on steering rack. 7. Hold steering rack with wrench and tighten
rack end to specifications. 8. Stake four sections of lock washer with suitable roll pin drift and
mallet. 9. Apply grease to circumference of rack end housing, then coat rack end groove and inside
of boot with silicone grease.
10. Install boots in rack end with tube clamps. 11. Install boot band with rack in straight-ahead
position (right and left tie rods are equal in length). Tabs should face up and slightly forward. 12.
Install new boot bands on boot and bend both sets of locking tabs, then lightly tap on doubled-over
portions to reduce their height. 13. Slide rack right and left to be certain boots are not deformed or
twisted, then install right and left tie rod end on right and left rack end. 14. Install steering gear and
tighten fasteners to specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Airbag Handling and Storage
Steering Wheel: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage
Do not disassemble the airbags. it has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions.
WARNING: If the airbag is improperly stored face down, accidental deployment could propel the
unit with enough force to cause serious injury.
Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put any things on the removed airbag.
Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag.
Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200° F / 93° C).
Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Airbag Handling and Storage > Page 7160
Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement.
CAUTION: Improper handling or storage can internally damage the airbag assembly, making it
inoperative. If you suspect the airbag assembly has been damaged, install a new unit, and refer to
the Deployment/Disposal Procedures (see "Damaged Airbag Special Procedure") for disposing of
the damaged airbag.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Airbag Handling and Storage > Page 7161
Steering Wheel: Service Precautions Deployed Air Bag
Put on a pair of shop gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes from possible
irritation and heat when handling the deployed air bag assembly.
Driver Airbag Assembly
After the air bag assembly has been deployed, the surface of the air bag may contain a powdery
residue. This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag as it inflates) and
by products of the chemical reaction. Sodium hydroxide dust (similar to lye soap) is produced as a
by product of the deployment reaction. The sodium hydroxide then quickly reacts with atmospheric
moisture and is converted to sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore,
it is unlikely that sodium hydroxide will be present after deployment.
Passenger Airbag Assembly
The passenger inflator requires no special precaution after deployment. 95% of the particulate
emission are potassium chloride (KCL), which is commonly sold as an edible salt-substitutes. even
if water is applied. Post deployment products are relatively pH neutral. Disposing the inflator by
burying it in a landfill will not products any hazardous products. As with any dusty environment,
safety goggles, dust mask and gloves should be worn.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Airbag Handling and Storage > Page 7162
Steering Wheel: Service Precautions Undeployed Air Bag
During the course of a vehicle's useful life, certain situations may arise which will necessitate the
disposal of a live (undeployed) air bag assembly. This information covers proper procedures for
disposing of a live air bag assembly. Before a live air bag assembly can be disposed of, it must be
deployed. A live air bag assembly must not be disposed of through normal refuse channels.
Special care is necessary when handling and storing a live (undeployed) air bag assembly. The
rapid gas generation produced during deployment of the air bag could cause the air bag assembly,
or an object in front of the air bag assembly, to be thrown through the air in the unlikely event of an
accidental deployment.
WARNING: FAILURE TO FOLLOW PROPER SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) AIR
BAG ASSEMBLY DISPOSAL PROCEDURES CAN RESULT IN AIR BAG DEPLOYMENT WHICH
MAY CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. AN UNDEPLOYED AIR BAG ASSEMBLY MUST NOT BE
DISPOSED OF THROUGH NORMAL REFUSE CHANNELS. THE UNDEPLOYED AIR BAG
ASSEMBLY CONTAINS SUBSTANCES THAT CAN CAUSE SEVERE ILLNESS OR PERSONAL
INJURY IF THE SEALED CONTAINER IS DAMAGED DURING DISPOSAL. DISPOSAL IN ANY
MANNER INCONSISTENT WITH PROPER PROCEDURES MAY BE A VIOLATION OF
FEDERAL, STATE, AND / OR LOCAL LAW.
In situations which require deployment of a live air bag assembly, deployment may be
accomplished inside or outside the vehicle. The method employed
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Airbag Handling and Storage > Page 7163
depends upon the final disposition of the particular vehicle, as noted in "Deployment Outside
Vehicle" and "Deployment Inside Vehicle".
WARNING: WHEN CARRYING A LIVE AIR BAG ASSEMBLY, MAKE SURE THE BAG OPENING
IS POINTED AWAY FROM YOU. IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT, THE BAG WILL
THEN DEPLOY WITH MINIMAL CHANCE OF INJURY. NEVER CARRY THE AIR BAG
ASSEMBLY BY THE WIRES OR CONNECTOR ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE MODULE.
Handling/Installation/Diagnosis
1. Air bag assembly should not be subjected to temperatures above 65° C (150° F). 2. Air bag
assembly, and SDM should not be used if they have been dropped from a height of 100
centimeters (3.28 feet) or more. 3. When a SDM is replaced, it must be oriented with the arrow on
the SDM pointing toward the front of the vehicle. It is very important for the SDM
to be located flat on the mounting surface, parallel to the vehicle datum line. It is important that the
SDM mounting surface is free of any dirt or other foreign material.
4. Do not apply power to the SRS unless all components are connected or a diagnostic chart
requests it, as this will set a diagnostic trouble code. 5. The "SRS Diagnostic System Check" must
be the starting point of any SRS diagnostics. The "SRS Diagnostic System Check" will verify proper
"AIR BAG" warning lamp operation and will lead you to the correct chart to diagnose any SRS
malfunctions. Bypassing these procedures may result in extended diagnostic time, incorrect
diagnosis, and incorrect parts replacements.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Removal
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove air bag assembly as follows:
a. Remove mounting screw covers. b. Remove mounting screws using T30 Torx bit. c. Disconnect
electrical connectors, then remove air bag assembly. When storing a removed air bag assembly,
ensure pad is facing upward.
3. On models less air bag, remove steering wheel emblem. 4. Ensure steering wheel is in a straight
ahead position, then remove steering shaft nut or bolt. 5. Remove steering wheel by rocking it from
side to side while pulling steadily with both hands.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal > Page 7166
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Installation
1. On models equipped with air bag, center the cable reel as follows:
a. Rotate cable reel clockwise until it stops. b. Rotate cable reel counterclockwise (approximately
two turns) until yellow gear tooth lines up with alignment mark on cover, or arrow mark on
cable reel label points straight up.
2. Install steering wheel on steering shaft in straight ahead position.
Fig. 1 Steering Wheel Installation. Models W/air Bag
3. On models equipped with air bag, ensure steering wheel shaft engages pins of cable reel, Fig. 1.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal > Page 7167
Fig. 2 Steering Wheel Installation. Models Less Air Bag
4. On models less air bag, align slots on steering wheel and tabs on turn signal cancelling sleeve,
Fig. 2. 5. torque steering wheel mounting nut to 36 ft. lbs. 6. On models equipped with air bag,
install air bag assembly with new Torx bolts. Confirm air bag assembly is securely attached to
steering
wheel; otherwise, severe personal injury could result during later air bag deployment.
7. On models less air bag, install steering column center pad. 8. On models equipped with radio
coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Specifications
Ball Joint: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut .............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.... 40
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 7172
Ball Joint: Testing and Inspection
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Grasp tire at top and bottom. 3. Shake tire back and forth, check
for any side to side movement in ball joint. 4. Replace ball joint if there is any side to side
movement.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 7173
Ball Joint: Service and Repair
1. Remove steering knuckle as described under Steering Knuckle /Service and Repair. 2. Remove
lower ball joint dust cover snap ring, then the dust boot. 3. Remove ball joint snap ring. 4. Use ball
joint replacement tool No. 07MAC-SC0020 and ball joint removal base tool No. 07965-SB00100, or
equivalents, to press ball joint out
of steering knuckle.
5. Press replacement ball joint into steering knuckle by hand. 6. Press ball joint into steering
knuckle using ball joint replacement tool No. 07MAC-SC0020 and ball joint installation base tool
No.07965-SB00200, or equivalents.
7. Install ball joint snap ring. 8. Install dust cover and snap ring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Raise spindle nut locking tab,
then remove spindle nut. 3. Remove brake hose bracket mounting bolts. 4. Remove caliper and
position aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose. 5. Remove brake disc
attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching screw holes to push disc
from hub. When tightening
screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent excessively cocking the brake disc.
6. Remove brake disc from knuckle. 7. Remove speed sensor wire bracket, then the speed sensor
from knuckle. 8. Remove tie rod end cotter pin and nut. 9. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod
end remover.
10. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way. 11. Using ball joint
remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent, separate ball joint and lower arm. 12. Remove
upper ball joint shield, then the cotter pin and nut. 13. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm
using suitable ball joint remover. 14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off
driveshaft. 15. Remove hub from steering knuckle using suitable press. 16. Remove knuckle ring,
circlip and splash guard from knuckle. 17. Press out wheel bearing from hub using driver tool No.
07749-0010000, attachment tool No. 07746-0010500 and base tool No. 07GAF-SE00401,
or equivalents.
18. Remove outboard bearing inner race from hub.
Fig. 4 Front Suspension
19. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Fig. 2 for tightening specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front Strut
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Front Strut
1. Raise and support front of vehicle and remove wheels. 2. Remove brake hose mounting bolts
from damper.
Fig. 4 Front Suspension
3. Remove damper fork pinch bolt, fork retaining bolt and the damper fork, Fig. 4. 4. Remove upper
strut base mounting nuts and the strut assembly. 5. Insert upper base studs through mounting
holes, ensuring alignment tab on shock body faces toward inside, then install base mounting nuts
hand
tight.
6. Install damper fork over drive axle and lower arm, then slide fork over lower end of shock
absorber, aligning tab on shock with slot in fork. 7. Install damper fork retaining bolt and pinch bolt
hand tight. 8. Position suitable jack under knuckle hub, then raise knuckle until weight of vehicle is
supported by damper assembly. 9. With weight of vehicle supported by damper, tighten damper
fork retaining bolt, damper fork pinch bolt and shock absorber base nuts to
specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front Strut > Page 7181
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Rear Strut
Removal
Fig. 3 Exploded View Of Rear Damper Assembly
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove rear wheel(s) and place in luggage compartment
for ballast. 2. Remove damper cap at rear seat lining. 3. Remove two flange attaching nuts and
damper mounting bolt, then remove speed sensor. 4. Remove self-locking bolt connecting lower
arm and trailing arm. If vehicle is raised with hoist, center of gravity may change, causing vehicle
to tip forward when damper is removed.
5. Lower rear suspension and remove rear damper. 6. Using suitable spring compressor, compress
damper spring enough to remove damper assembly self-locking nut. 7. Disassemble damper
assembly, Fig. 3.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front Strut > Page 7182
Installation
1. Mount damper assembly in spring compressor.
Fig. 4 Damper Mounting Base Installation
2. Assemble rear damper in reverse order of removal except damper mounting washer and
self-locking nut. Align bottom of damper spring and
spring lower seat, Fig. 4.
3. Compress spring and install damper mounting washer and self-locking nut. 4. Loosely tighten
self-locking nut, then, while holding damper shaft torque self-locking nut to 22 ft. lbs. 5. Lower rear
suspension and position damper assembly in its original position. 6. Loosely install two flange nuts
and speed sensor, then use suitable floor jack to raise rear suspension until weight of vehicle is on
damper. 7. Install damper mounting bolt and self-locking bolt, then torque to 40 ft. lbs. Mounting
bolt and self-locking bolt should be tightened with
damper under vehicle load.
8. Tighten two flange attaching nuts, then install damper cap.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Trailing Arm Bushing > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-006 > Mar > 06 > Suspension - Rear Suspension
Clunk/Squeak On Bumps
Trailing Arm Bushing: Customer Interest Suspension - Rear Suspension Clunk/Squeak On Bumps
00-006
March 31, 2006
Applies To: *1988-00 Civic - ALL 1997-01 CR-V-ALL 1993-97 Del Sol - ALL*
Clunk or Squeak From Rear Suspension
(Supersedes 00-006, dated December 11, 2001, to update the information marked by the black
bars and asterisks)
SYMPTOM
A clunk or squeak from the rear suspension when going over rough or bumpy roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Broken rear trailing arm bushing(s).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear trailing arm bushing(s).
PARTS INFORMATION
*Rear Trailing Arm Bushing:
1988-00 Civic and 1993-97 Del Sol
P/N 52385-SR3-000, H/C 4098299
1997-01 CR-V:
P/N 52385-SR3-003, H/C 7424773
TOOL INFORMATION
Trailing Arm Bushing Installation Set:
T/N 07AAF-SK7A130, H/C 8283822
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: 1988-00 Civic and 1993-97 Del Sol:
P/N 52385-SR3-000 H/C 4098299
1997-01 CR-V:
P/N 52385-SR3-003 H/C 7424773
Defect Code: 01801
Symptom Code: 04205*
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Trailing Arm Bushing > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-006 > Mar > 06 > Suspension - Rear Suspension
Clunk/Squeak On Bumps > Page 7192
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
*NOTE:
ISIS online service manual information is only available for vehicles 1990 and newer.
1. Remove the rear trailing arm:
^ Refer to the suspension section of the appropriate service manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword REAR SUSPENSION, then select Suspension Arms Replacement from
the list.*
2. Mark the trailing arm at the arrow on the bottom of the bushing.
3. Place the arm on a hydraulic press, supported by the hub base, with the spindle facing up.
4. With the hub driver, press the old bushing out of the trailing arm.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Trailing Arm Bushing > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-006 > Mar > 06 > Suspension - Rear Suspension
Clunk/Squeak On Bumps > Page 7193
5. Install the new bushing with the short end toward the outside of the vehicle. Align the arrow with
the mark you made on the trailing arm.
6. Press the new bushing into the trailing arm until its edge is 10 to 12 mm above the surface of the
arm.
7. Reinstall the trailing arm.
8. If necessary, repeat steps 1 thru 7 to install a new bushing in the other rear trailing arm.
9. Bleed the brake system:
* ^ Refer to the brakes section of the appropriate service manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword BLEED, then select Brake System Bleeding from the list.
10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if needed:
^ Refer to the suspension section of the appropriate service manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword WHEEL ALIGNMENT, then select Wheel Alignment - Rear Toe
Inspection/Adjustment from the list.*
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Trailing Arm Bushing > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-006 > Mar > 06 > Suspension - Rear
Suspension Clunk/Squeak On Bumps
Trailing Arm Bushing: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Rear Suspension Clunk/Squeak
On Bumps
00-006
March 31, 2006
Applies To: *1988-00 Civic - ALL 1997-01 CR-V-ALL 1993-97 Del Sol - ALL*
Clunk or Squeak From Rear Suspension
(Supersedes 00-006, dated December 11, 2001, to update the information marked by the black
bars and asterisks)
SYMPTOM
A clunk or squeak from the rear suspension when going over rough or bumpy roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Broken rear trailing arm bushing(s).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear trailing arm bushing(s).
PARTS INFORMATION
*Rear Trailing Arm Bushing:
1988-00 Civic and 1993-97 Del Sol
P/N 52385-SR3-000, H/C 4098299
1997-01 CR-V:
P/N 52385-SR3-003, H/C 7424773
TOOL INFORMATION
Trailing Arm Bushing Installation Set:
T/N 07AAF-SK7A130, H/C 8283822
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: 1988-00 Civic and 1993-97 Del Sol:
P/N 52385-SR3-000 H/C 4098299
1997-01 CR-V:
P/N 52385-SR3-003 H/C 7424773
Defect Code: 01801
Symptom Code: 04205*
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Trailing Arm Bushing > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-006 > Mar > 06 > Suspension - Rear
Suspension Clunk/Squeak On Bumps > Page 7199
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
*NOTE:
ISIS online service manual information is only available for vehicles 1990 and newer.
1. Remove the rear trailing arm:
^ Refer to the suspension section of the appropriate service manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword REAR SUSPENSION, then select Suspension Arms Replacement from
the list.*
2. Mark the trailing arm at the arrow on the bottom of the bushing.
3. Place the arm on a hydraulic press, supported by the hub base, with the spindle facing up.
4. With the hub driver, press the old bushing out of the trailing arm.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Trailing Arm Bushing > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-006 > Mar > 06 > Suspension - Rear
Suspension Clunk/Squeak On Bumps > Page 7200
5. Install the new bushing with the short end toward the outside of the vehicle. Align the arrow with
the mark you made on the trailing arm.
6. Press the new bushing into the trailing arm until its edge is 10 to 12 mm above the surface of the
arm.
7. Reinstall the trailing arm.
8. If necessary, repeat steps 1 thru 7 to install a new bushing in the other rear trailing arm.
9. Bleed the brake system:
* ^ Refer to the brakes section of the appropriate service manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword BLEED, then select Brake System Bleeding from the list.
10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if needed:
^ Refer to the suspension section of the appropriate service manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword WHEEL ALIGNMENT, then select Wheel Alignment - Rear Toe
Inspection/Adjustment from the list.*
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Trailing Arm Bushing > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trailing Arm Bushing: > 93033 > Jun > 96 > Seat
Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken
Seat Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken
Bulletin No. 93-033
Issue Date JUNE 3, 1996
Model: 1992 and Later [NEW]
Applicable To: ALL except PASSPORT [NEW]
File Under: BODY
Broken Seat Belt Tongue Stopper Button (Supersedes 93-033, dated October 22, 1993)
PROBLEM
The seat belt tongue stopper button is broken, allowing the tongue to slide down to the floor.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a new seat belt tongue stopper button listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Slide the seat belt tongue up the seat belt past the tongue stopper button hole. Temporarily
secure the seat belt tongue to the belt fabric with masking tape.
2. Insert the male section of the button through the hole in the belt fabric. Align and install the
female section of the stopper to the male section.
3. Preset the closed gap on a pair of vise-grip pliers to 4.5 mm.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Trailing Arm Bushing > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trailing Arm Bushing: > 93033 > Jun > 96 > Seat
Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken > Page 7206
4. Place the flat portion of the jaws over the tongue stopper, and squeeze until the vise-grip jaws
lock and deform the stopper shaft.
PARTS INFORMATION
Seat Belt Tongue Stopper:
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Warranty Coverage:
Seat belts that fail to function properly during normal use are covered under warranty for the useful
life of the car.
Warranty Does Not Cover:
^ Malfunction due to abuse, alteration, accidental damage or damage resulting from a collision or
misuse.
^ Replacement of a properly functioning seat belt for cosmetic or comfort reasons.
Operation number: 854125
Flat rate time: 0.2 hour (one or two sides)
Failed part: P/N 04814-SM1-AO2ZA [NEW] H/C 3919289
Defect code: L18
Contention code: A02
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Trailing Arm Bushing > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Trailing Arm Bushing: > 93033 > Jun > 96 > Seat
Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken > Page 7212
4. Place the flat portion of the jaws over the tongue stopper, and squeeze until the vise-grip jaws
lock and deform the stopper shaft.
PARTS INFORMATION
Seat Belt Tongue Stopper:
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Warranty Coverage:
Seat belts that fail to function properly during normal use are covered under warranty for the useful
life of the car.
Warranty Does Not Cover:
^ Malfunction due to abuse, alteration, accidental damage or damage resulting from a collision or
misuse.
^ Replacement of a properly functioning seat belt for cosmetic or comfort reasons.
Operation number: 854125
Flat rate time: 0.2 hour (one or two sides)
Failed part: P/N 04814-SM1-AO2ZA [NEW] H/C 3919289
Defect code: L18
Contention code: A02
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Adjustments
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
Wheel bearings and hub on these models are an integral assembly and bearings cannot be
adjusted. If hub endplay exceeds 0.002 inch with spindle nut properly tightened, hub and bearing
assembly should be replaced.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Raise spindle nut locking tab,
then remove spindle nut. 3. Remove brake hose bracket mounting bolts. 4. Remove caliper and
position aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose. 5. Remove brake disc
attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching screw holes to push disc
from hub. When tightening
screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent excessively cocking the brake disc.
6. Remove brake disc from knuckle. 7. Remove speed sensor wire bracket, then the speed sensor
from knuckle. 8. Remove tie rod end cotter pin and nut. 9. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod
end remover.
10. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way. 11. Using ball joint
remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent, separate ball joint and lower arm. 12. Remove
upper ball joint shield, then the cotter pin and nut. 13. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm
using suitable ball joint remover. 14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off
driveshaft. 15. Remove hub from steering knuckle using suitable press. 16. Remove knuckle ring,
circlip and splash guard from knuckle. 17. Press out wheel bearing from hub using driver tool No.
07749-0010000, attachment tool No. 07746-0010500 and base tool No. 07GAF-SE00401,
or equivalents.
18. Remove outboard bearing inner race from hub.
Fig. 4 Front Suspension
19. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Fig. 2 for tightening specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 7218
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
Disc Brake Models
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove rear wheels. 2. Apply parking brake, then remove hub
cap. 3. Raise locking tab on spindle nut, then remove nut. 4. Remove 6 mm brake disc retaining
screw, then the caliper shield. 5. Remove brake hose mounting bolts, then the caliper bracket
mounting bolts. 6. Remove caliper and hang from undercarriage with short piece of wire. Do not
hang caliper by brake hose. 7. Screw two 12 mm bolts into disc to push disc off of hub. Remove
disc. 8. Remove hub unit from knuckle. 9. Reverse procedure to install.
Drum Brake Models
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove wheel and brake drum. 2. Remove grease cap,
spindle nut and washer. 3. Remove hub and bearing unit from spindle. 4. Reverse procedure to
install. Tighten spindle nut to specifications, then stake shoulder of nut into groove in spindle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information >
Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Spindle Nut ......................................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 134
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Tires: Customer Interest Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Bulletin No. 94-025
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
File Under SUSPENSION
Issue Date AUG 22, 1994
Steering Wheel Shimmy
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
An imbalance of the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly in the front end.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
If the steering wheel oscillates as shown, continue with this procedure.
2. Dynamically balance all four wheel/tire assemblies off the car. Make sure the balancer is capable
of balancing to an accuracy of within 5 grams. Use only Honda wheel weights (see PARTS
INFORMATION).
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy > Page 7232
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Failed part: P/N 42700-SM1-A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy > Page 7233
H/C 3251550
Defect code: 045
Contention code: B99
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 06-082 > Dec > 06 > Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
06-082
December 15, 2006
Applies To: ALL
Tubeless Tire Repair Information
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Refer to the tire manufacturer for warranty information.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ 1/8 inch Patch-plug with lead wire
^ 1/4 inch Patch-plug with lead wire
^ 1/8 inch Plugs (stem)*
^ 1/4 inch Plugs (stem)*
^ 1/4 inch Patches*
^ 3/4 inch Patches*
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
^ Inner liner sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire stitcher, 1-1/2 inch wheel
^ Tire crayons
^ Tire test tank
^ Awl or probe
^ Flexible blade skiving knife
^ 1/8 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter
^ 1/4 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter
^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose
^ Carbide buffing wheel with adapter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 06-082 > Dec > 06 > Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information >
Page 7239
^ Reversible drill motor (800 RPM MAX)
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
* For repairable injuries that exceed 25 degrees
TIRE REPAIR GUIDELINES
Never repair tires worn below 2/32 inch of tread.
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
MICHELIN PAX SYSTEM SUPPORT RING INSPECTION
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a
Shimmy
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Bulletin No. 94-025
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
File Under SUSPENSION
Issue Date AUG 22, 1994
Steering Wheel Shimmy
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
An imbalance of the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly in the front end.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
If the steering wheel oscillates as shown, continue with this procedure.
2. Dynamically balance all four wheel/tire assemblies off the car. Make sure the balancer is capable
of balancing to an accuracy of within 5 grams. Use only Honda wheel weights (see PARTS
INFORMATION).
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a
Shimmy > Page 7244
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Failed part: P/N 42700-SM1-A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a
Shimmy > Page 7245
H/C 3251550
Defect code: 045
Contention code: B99
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Tires: > 06-082 > Dec > 06 > Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
06-082
December 15, 2006
Applies To: ALL
Tubeless Tire Repair Information
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Refer to the tire manufacturer for warranty information.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ 1/8 inch Patch-plug with lead wire
^ 1/4 inch Patch-plug with lead wire
^ 1/8 inch Plugs (stem)*
^ 1/4 inch Plugs (stem)*
^ 1/4 inch Patches*
^ 3/4 inch Patches*
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
^ Inner liner sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire stitcher, 1-1/2 inch wheel
^ Tire crayons
^ Tire test tank
^ Awl or probe
^ Flexible blade skiving knife
^ 1/8 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter
^ 1/4 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter
^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose
^ Carbide buffing wheel with adapter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Tires: > 06-082 > Dec > 06 > Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information >
Page 7251
^ Reversible drill motor (800 RPM MAX)
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
* For repairable injuries that exceed 25 degrees
TIRE REPAIR GUIDELINES
Never repair tires worn below 2/32 inch of tread.
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
MICHELIN PAX SYSTEM SUPPORT RING INSPECTION
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Tires: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: This vehicle has a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). Refer to the SRS
component and wiring location view in order to determine whether you are performing service on or
near the SRS components or the SRS wiring. when you are performing service on or near the SRS
components or the SRS wiring, refer to the SRS service information. failure to follow warnings
could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SRS system
repairs.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 7254
Tires: Vehicle Damage Warnings
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. Honda will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. Honda will also call out the fasteners that require thread
lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings (Paints,
greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally,
such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping force, and may damage
the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications.
Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Page 7255
Tires: Description and Operation
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Replacement wheels or tires must be equivalent to the originals in load capacity, specified
dimension and mounting configuration. Improper size or type may affect bearing life, brake
performance, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to
the body and chassis. All model are equipped with metric sized tubeless steel belted radial tires.
Correct tire pressures and driving habits have an important influence on tire life. Heavy cornering,
excessively rapid acceleration and unnecessary sharp braking increase premature and uneven
wear.
TREAD WEAR INDICATORS
The original equipment tires have built-in tread wear indicators (1) to show when tires need
replacement. These indicators may appear as wide bands. When the indicators appear in two or
more grooves at three locations, tire replacement is recommended.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
Tires: Testing and Inspection Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
TYPICAL EXAMPLES OF ABNORMAL TIRE AHEAD WEAR AND MAJOR CAUSES:
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
Tread Wear One-Sided
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
Localized Tread Wear
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7258
1. Once spotty wear develops in tread due to hard braking or abrupt starting, localized wear tends
to be promoted.
Shoulder Wear (Generally Wear Develops In Outer Shoulder):
1. Camber or toe-in incorrect. 2. Shoulder wear caused by repeated hard-cornering.
Wear In Shoulders At Points Opposed To Each Other
1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Play in bearings or ball joint.
Premature Wear In Shoulders
1. Flexing of tire excessive due to under-inflation.
One Sided Feather Edging
1. Wear caused by repeated hard cornering. 2. Camber or toe-in incorrect.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7259
Tires: Testing and Inspection Diagnosis By Symptom
Part 1 Of 2
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7260
Part 2 Of 2
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7261
Tires: Testing and Inspection Diagnosis List
If the following conditions are noted, rotation is required.
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
If the following conditions are noted, check the wheel alignment.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
Higher than recommended pressure can cause:
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
Lower than recommended pressure can cause:
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
Unequal pressure on same axle can cause:
1. Uneven braking. 2. Steering lead. 3. Reduced handling. 4. Swerve on acceleration.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7262
Tires: Testing and Inspection Irregular and Premature Wear
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7263
Tires: Testing and Inspection
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
TYPICAL EXAMPLES OF ABNORMAL TIRE AHEAD WEAR AND MAJOR CAUSES:
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
Tread Wear One-Sided
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7264
Localized Tread Wear
1. Once spotty wear develops in tread due to hard braking or abrupt starting, localized wear tends
to be promoted.
Shoulder Wear (Generally Wear Develops In Outer Shoulder):
1. Camber or toe-in incorrect. 2. Shoulder wear caused by repeated hard-cornering.
Wear In Shoulders At Points Opposed To Each Other
1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Play in bearings or ball joint.
Premature Wear In Shoulders
1. Flexing of tire excessive due to under-inflation.
One Sided Feather Edging
1. Wear caused by repeated hard cornering. 2. Camber or toe-in incorrect.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7265
Part 1 Of 2
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7266
Part 2 Of 2
Diagnosis List
If the following conditions are noted, rotation is required.
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
If the following conditions are noted, check the wheel alignment.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7267
Higher than recommended pressure can cause:
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
Lower than recommended pressure can cause:
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
Unequal pressure on same axle can cause:
1. Uneven braking. 2. Steering lead. 3. Reduced handling. 4. Swerve on acceleration.
Irregular and Premature Wear
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
Radial Tire Lead/Pull
"Lead/Pull" is vehicle deviation from a straight path, on a level road with no pressure on the
steering wheel. Lead is usually caused by:
1. Poorly manufactured radial tires. 2. Uneven brake adjustment. 3. Wheel alignment.
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a car. An example of this is placement of the
belt. Off-center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to develop a side force while rolling straight
down the road and the tire will tend to roll like a cone. The "Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction" chart
should be used to make sure that front wheel alignment is not mistaken for tire lead. Rear tires will
not cause lead/pull.
Radial Tire Waddle
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 7268
Waddle is side-to-side movement at the front and/or rear of the car. It can be caused by the steel
belt not being straight within the tire, or by excessive lateral runout of the tire or wheel. It is most
noticeable at low speed, about 8 to 48 km/h (5 to 30 mph). It may also cause rough ride at 80 to
113 km/h (50 to 70 mph). The car can be road tested to see which end of the car has the faulty tire.
If the tire causing the waddle is on the rear, the rear end of the car will "waddle". From the driver's
seat, it feels as if someone is pushing on the side of the car. If the faulty tire is on the front, the
waddle is more easily seen. The front sheet metal appears to be moving back and forth. It feels as
if the driver's seat is the pivot point in the car. Another more time-consuming method of determining
the faulty tire is substituting tire and wheel assemblies that are known to be good. Follow these
steps:
1. Drive the car to determine if the waddle is coming from the front or rear. 2. Install tire and wheel
assemblies known to be good (from a similar car) in place of those on the end of the car which is
waddling. If the waddle
cannot be isolated to front or rear, start with the rear tires.
3. Road test again. If improvement is noted, install the original tire and wheel assemblies one at a
time until the faulty tire is found. If no
improvement is noted, install tires known to be good in place of all four. Then, install the originals
one at a time until the faulty tire is found.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Tires: Service and Repair Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Use a tire changing machine to demount tires. Do not use hand tools or tire irons alone to remove
the tire from the wheel. Damage to the tire beads or wheel rim could result. Follow the tire changing
machine manufacturer's instructions to properly separate the tire from the wheel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 7271
Tires: Service and Repair Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
3. Attach the tire to the wheel.
a. Use a tire changing machine.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
4. Inflate the tire to operating pressure. 5. Check the bead seating.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 7272
Tires: Service and Repair Balancing
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
tramp. This condition will eventually cause uneven tire wear.
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 7273
Tires: Service and Repair Tire Rotation
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Front tire wear is different from rear.
- Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire.
- Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
- Wear is uneven across the tread of any front tire.
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 7274
Tires: Service and Repair
Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Use a tire changing machine to demount tires. Do not use hand tools or tire irons alone to remove
the tire from the wheel. Damage to the tire beads or wheel rim could result. Follow the tire changing
machine manufacturer's instructions to properly separate the tire from the wheel.
Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
3. Attach the tire to the wheel.
a. Use a tire changing machine.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
4. Inflate the tire to operating pressure. 5. Check the bead seating.
Balancing
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 7275
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
tramp. This condition will eventually cause uneven tire wear.
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Tire Rotation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 7276
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Front tire wear is different from rear.
- Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire.
- Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
- Wear is uneven across the tread of any front tire.
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Inflation of Tires
Tire pressure, in cold condition (after vehicle has set for three hours or more, and driven less than
one mile) should be checked monthly or before any extended trip. Tire pressure increases
approximately 15% when the tires become hot during driving. Tire pressure specification is shown
on the label located on the left door lock pillar.
NOTE: Check the tire pressure whenever irregular wear is found. Tire inflation greatly affects tire
wear. If the alignment check does not reveal any alignment problems, check the condition of the
shock absorbers and wheel/tire balance.
Tire Replacement
TIRE REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric the size should be used. Most metric tire sizes
do not have exact corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It is recommended that new tires be
installed in pairs on the same axle. If necessary to replace only one tire, it should be paired with tire
having the most tread, to equalize braking traction.
CAUTION: Do not mix different types of tires such as radial, bias and bias-belted tires except in
emergencies, because vehicle handling may be seriously affected and may result in loss of control.
Tire Dismounting
Remove valve cap on valve step and deflate the tire. Then use a tire changing machine to mount or
dismount tires. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instruction. Do not use hand tools or tire lever
alone to change tires as they may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 7277
Tire Mounting
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush or coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and
light rust. Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be well lubricated with an approved tire
lubricant. After mounting, inflate the tire to 196 kPa (28 psi) so that beads are completely seated.
Inflate the air to specified pressure and install valve cap to the stem.
WARNING: Never stand over tire when inflating. bead may break when bead snaps over rim's
safety hump and cause serious personal injury. never exceed 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure when
inflating. if 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, re-lubricate and re-inflate. over
inflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
Tire Repair
There are many different materials on the market used to repair tires. Manufacturers have
published detailed instructions on how and when to repair tires. These instructions can be obtained
from the tire manufacturer if they are not included with the repair kit.
Wheel Inspection
Damaged wheels and wheels with excessive run-out must be replaced. Wheel run out at rim (Base
on hub Bore):
General Balance Procedure
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 7278
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight
around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically unbalanced cause a bouncing action called tramp.
This condition will eventually cause uneven tire wear. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of
weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Adjustments
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
Wheel bearings and hub on these models are an integral assembly and bearings cannot be
adjusted. If hub endplay exceeds 0.002 inch with spindle nut properly tightened, hub and bearing
assembly should be replaced.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Raise spindle nut locking tab,
then remove spindle nut. 3. Remove brake hose bracket mounting bolts. 4. Remove caliper and
position aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose. 5. Remove brake disc
attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching screw holes to push disc
from hub. When tightening
screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent excessively cocking the brake disc.
6. Remove brake disc from knuckle. 7. Remove speed sensor wire bracket, then the speed sensor
from knuckle. 8. Remove tie rod end cotter pin and nut. 9. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod
end remover.
10. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way. 11. Using ball joint
remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent, separate ball joint and lower arm. 12. Remove
upper ball joint shield, then the cotter pin and nut. 13. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm
using suitable ball joint remover. 14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off
driveshaft. 15. Remove hub from steering knuckle using suitable press. 16. Remove knuckle ring,
circlip and splash guard from knuckle. 17. Press out wheel bearing from hub using driver tool No.
07749-0010000, attachment tool No. 07746-0010500 and base tool No. 07GAF-SE00401,
or equivalents.
18. Remove outboard bearing inner race from hub.
Fig. 4 Front Suspension
19. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Fig. 2 for tightening specifications.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 7284
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
Disc Brake Models
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove rear wheels. 2. Apply parking brake, then remove hub
cap. 3. Raise locking tab on spindle nut, then remove nut. 4. Remove 6 mm brake disc retaining
screw, then the caliper shield. 5. Remove brake hose mounting bolts, then the caliper bracket
mounting bolts. 6. Remove caliper and hang from undercarriage with short piece of wire. Do not
hang caliper by brake hose. 7. Screw two 12 mm bolts into disc to push disc off of hub. Remove
disc. 8. Remove hub unit from knuckle. 9. Reverse procedure to install.
Drum Brake Models
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove wheel and brake drum. 2. Remove grease cap,
spindle nut and washer. 3. Remove hub and bearing unit from spindle. 4. Reverse procedure to
install. Tighten spindle nut to specifications, then stake shoulder of nut into groove in spindle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component
Information > Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Spindle Nut ......................................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 134
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications
Wheel Fastener: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Wheel Nut ............................................................................................................................................
................................................... 110 Nm (80 ft. lbs.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Conditioning Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection
Air Conditioning Switch: Testing and Inspection
A/C Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Air Door: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7300
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7301
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7302
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7303
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7304
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7305
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7306
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7307
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7308
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7309
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7310
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7311
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7312
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7313
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7314
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7315
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7316
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7317
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7318
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7319
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7320
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7321
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7322
Air Door: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7323
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7324
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7325
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7326
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7327
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7328
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7329
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7330
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7331
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7332
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7333
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7334
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7335
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7336
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7337
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7338
Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7339
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7341
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Blower (Heater) Motor Gets Hot and Blows A Fuse
Blower Motor: Technical Service Bulletins Blower (Heater) Motor Gets Hot and Blows A Fuse
SOURCE: Honda Service News November 2003
TITLE: Heater Blower Motor Gets Hot or Blows a Fuse
APPLIES TO: 1990-04 Accords, 1992-04 Civics, 1997-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2000-04
Insights, 1995-04 Odysseys, 1996-02 Passports, 2003-04 Pilots, 1997-01 Preludes, and 2000-04
S2000s
SERVICE TIP: A blocked cooling hose for the heater blower motor can cause the motor to
overheat, draw more current, blow a fuse, or even melt its plastic impeller. Before you order a
replacement blower motor, make sure the cooling hose isn't blocked. On some models, you'll find
the cooling hose molded into the blower motor housing; on other models, it's a separate piece.
Check the S/M for the vehicle you're working on to determine the actual location of the cooling
hose.
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Bulletins > Page 7353
Blower Motor: Locations
Below Right Side Of Dash
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Information and Instructions
Blower Motor: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Information and Instructions > Page 7356
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Information and Instructions > Page 7358
Fuse Details Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 7359
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Information and Instructions > Page 7360
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 7363
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Information and Instructions > Page 7364
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 7367
Symbol Identification
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Information and Instructions > Page 7368
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Information and Instructions > Page 7369
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7370
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Blower Motor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Information and Instructions > Page 7382
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Information and Instructions > Page 7383
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7397
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Information and Instructions > Page 7398
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7399
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information and Instructions > Page 7400
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Information and Instructions > Page 7401
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Information and Instructions > Page 7403
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Blower Unit
Blower Motor: Service and Repair Blower Unit
SRS Main Harness
CAUTION: All SRS electrical wiring harnesses are covered with yellow outer insulation. Before
disconnecting the SRS wire harness, install the short connector (5) on the airbag (5). Replace the
entire affected SRS harness assembly it it has an open circuit or damaged wiring.
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2. Remove the glove box and glove box frame.
3. Remove the tapping screws (2) and remove the heater duct.
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Blower Unit > Page 7407
4. Remove the A/C band and the evaporator.
5. Remove the mounting bolts (3).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Blower Unit > Page 7408
6. Disconnect the connectors from the blower motor. resistor then remove the blower. 7. Install the
blower in the reverse order of removal and make sure there is no air leakage.
NOTE: Before assembly make cure that the air door and linkage moves smoothly without binding.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Blower Unit > Page 7409
Blower Motor: Service and Repair Blower Motor
NOTE: The blower motor, recirculation control motor, end resistor can be replaced without
removing the blower assembly
SRS Main Harness
CAUTION: All SRS electrical wiring harnesses are covered with yellow outer insulation. Before
disconnecting the SRS wire harness, install the short connector (5) on the airbag (5). Replace the
entire affected SRS harness assembly it it has an open circuit or damaged wiring.
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2. Remove the glove box and glove box frame.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Blower Unit > Page 7410
6. Disconnect the connectors from the blower motor. resistor then remove the blower. 7. Install the
blower in the reverse order of removal and make sure there is no air leakage.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Blower Motor Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Page 7414
Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Relay Test
- There should be continuity between the C and D terminals.
- There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
- There should be no continuity when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information > Locations
Blower Motor Resistor: Locations
Behind Glove Box
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Blower Motor Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7422
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7423
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7424
Fuse Details Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7425
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7426
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7427
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7428
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7429
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7430
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7431
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7432
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7433
Symbol Identification
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7434
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7435
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7436
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7437
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7438
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7439
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7440
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7441
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7442
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7444
Blower Motor Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7448
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7449
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7451
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7453
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7454
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7456
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7457
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7458
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7459
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7466
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7467
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7468
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7469
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7470
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 7471
Blower Motor Switch: Testing and Inspection
Heater Fan Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Compressor Clutch: Electrical Specifications
SANDEN Field Coil Resistance 3.05 - 3.35 ohms
at 68 Deg F
NIPPONDENSO Stator Coil Resistance 3.4 - 3.8 ohms
at 68 Deg F
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 7477
Compressor Clutch: Mechanical Specifications
SANDEN Pulley-to-pressure plate clearance 0.5+/-0.15 mm
NIPPONDENSO Pulley-to-pressure plate clearance 0.5+/-0.15 mm
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7478
Compressor Clutch: Locations
Photo 3 - A/C Compressor Thermal Protector
Left Front Corner Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7479
Compressor Clutch: Testing and Inspection
Clutch Inspection
- Check the rotor pulley bearing play and drag by rotating the rotor pulley by hand. Replace the
clutch set with a new one if it is noisy or has excessive play/drag.
- Turn the rotor pulley by hand and measure the clearance between the rotor pulley and armature
plate all the way around. If the clearance is not within specified limits, the armature plate must be
removed and shims added or removed as required.
CLEARANCE: 0.50 ± 0.15 mm (0.020 ± 0.006 in)
NOTE: The shims are available in four sizes: 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm and 0.5 mm of thickness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7480
- Release the compressor clutch connector from the connector holder. Check the thermal protector
for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the thermal protector.
- Check the field coil for resistance.
Field Coil Resistance: 3.2 ± 0.15 ohm at 68°F (20°C)
If resistance is not within specifications, replace the field coil.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7481
Compressor Clutch: Service and Repair
Clutch Overhaul
1. Remove the center nut while holding the armature plate.
2. Remove the armature plate by pulling it up by hand.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7482
3. Remove the snap ring B with a snap ring pliers.
NOTE: ^ Once the snap ring B was removed, replace it with a new one. ^ Be careful not to damage
the compressor body and rotor pulley during removal/installation.
4. Remove the rotor pulley from the shaft with a puller and the special tool.
NOTE: Put the claws of the puller on the back of the rotor pulley, not on the belt area; otherwise the
rotor pulley can be damaged.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7483
5. Remove the snap ring A with a snap ring pliers. Release the field coil connector from the
connector holder, and disconnect the connector and field
coil ground terminal. Remove the field coil from the compressor.
NOTE: ^ Once the snap ring A is removed, replace it with a new one. ^ When installing the field
coil, align the boss on the field coil with the hole in the compressor.
6. Position the rotor pulley squarely over field coil. Press the rotor pulley onto the compressor boss
with the special tool.
If the rotor pulley does not press on straight, remove ~ and check the rotor pulley and compressor
boss for burrs or damage.
7. Install in the reverse order of removal, and:
^ Clean the rotor pulley and compressor sliding surfaces with non-petroleum solvent. ^ Install the
snap rings with the chamfered side facing out and make sure the snap rings are in the groove
completely. ^ After installing, make sure that the rotor pulley turns smoothly. ^ Route and clamp the
wires properly or they can be damaged by the rotor pulley.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Diode HVAC > Component Information >
Locations
Compressor Clutch Diode HVAC: Locations
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Diode HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Page 7487
Compressor Clutch Diode HVAC: Testing and Inspection
Diode Test
NOTE: The diodes are designed to pass current in one direction while blocking it in the opposite
direction. Most ohmmeters, unless equipped with a diode tester, should not be used to test diodes.
Check for continuity in both directions between the A and B terminals. There should be continuity in
only one direction.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component Information >
Locations
Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component Information >
Locations > Page 7491
Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection
Relay Test
- There should be continuity between the C and D terminals.
- There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
- There should be no continuity when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls for Condenser HVAC: > 96-010 > Sep > 08 > CAMPAIGN DISCONTINUATION NOTIFICATION
Condenser HVAC: Recalls CAMPAIGN DISCONTINUATION NOTIFICATION
96-010
September 26, 2008
Applies To: 1994-95 Accord, Civic, Del Sol
Product Update: Air Conditioning Condenser
(Supersedes 96-010, dated April 1, 1996, to update the information shown with asterisks.)
*This Product Update campaign has ended. Any repair cost is now the customer's responsibility.*
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Condenser HVAC: > 96-010 > Sep > 08 > CAMPAIGN
DISCONTINUATION NOTIFICATION
Condenser HVAC: All Technical Service Bulletins CAMPAIGN DISCONTINUATION
NOTIFICATION
96-010
September 26, 2008
Applies To: 1994-95 Accord, Civic, Del Sol
Product Update: Air Conditioning Condenser
(Supersedes 96-010, dated April 1, 1996, to update the information shown with asterisks.)
*This Product Update campaign has ended. Any repair cost is now the customer's responsibility.*
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Locations > Photo
17
Condenser Fan: Locations Photo 17
Right Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Locations > Photo
17 > Page 7509
Condenser Fan: Locations Photo 18
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Condenser Fan: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7512
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7513
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7514
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7515
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7516
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7517
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7518
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7519
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7520
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7521
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7522
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7523
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7524
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7525
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7526
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7527
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7528
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7529
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7530
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Condenser Fan: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7556
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7557
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7558
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7559
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7560
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
7561
Condenser Fan: Description and Operation
Voltage is provided at all times to the condenser fan relay (contacts) through fuse 35. With the
ignition switch in ON (II), voltage is provided to the coil of the relay through fuse 13. When you
push the A/C switch and put the heater fan switch in the 1, 2, 3 or 4 position and the A/C
thermostat is ON, the condenser fan relay energizes, and the condenser fan motor runs.
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7562
Condenser Fan: Testing and Inspection
Condenser Fan Flowchart
Part 1
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7563
Part 2
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan Diode > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
Condenser Fan Diode: Testing and Inspection
Diode Test
NOTE: The diodes are designed to pass current in one direction while blocking it in the opposite
direction. Most ohmmeters, unless equipped with a diode tester, should not be used to test diodes.
Check for continuity in both directions between the A and B terminals. There should be continuity in
only one direction.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC > Component Information
> Locations > Photo 19
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Photo 19
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC > Component Information
> Locations > Photo 19 > Page 7571
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Photo 31
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC > Component Information
> Locations > Page 7572
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Relay Test
- There should be continuity between the C and D terminals.
- There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
- There should be no continuity when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Control Assembly: Locations Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Center Rear Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Page 7577
Control Assembly: Locations Mode Control Motor
Behind Dash, Right Of Steering Column
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Page 7578
Control Assembly: Locations Recirculation Control Motor
Behind Glove Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Control Assembly: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7581
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7582
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7583
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7584
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7585
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7586
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7587
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7588
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7589
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7590
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7591
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7592
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7593
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7594
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7595
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7596
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7597
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7598
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7599
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7601
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7602
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7603
Control Assembly: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7627
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7628
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7629
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 7630
Control Assembly: Description and Operation
The air delivery system directs the flow of air used by the heater and air conditioner systems.
Mode Selection Mode selection is controlled by the mode switches in the heater control panel and
the mode control motor. When you select a specific mode, voltage is applied through the dimming
circuit to the LED, which comes ON, indicating the mode selected. Ground is provided to the mode
control motor through that mode switch. The motor then runs until the air control door reaches the
proper position.
Fresh/Recirculation Selection When you press the fresh or recirculation button, a ground signal is
sent from the heater control panel to the recirculation control motor. The motor then runs until the
recirculation door reaches the proper position. Battery voltage is also applied through the dimming
circuit to the corresponding LED, and the LED comes ON.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch
Control Assembly: Testing and Inspection A/C Switch & Fan Switch
A/C Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch > Page 7633
Control Assembly: Testing and Inspection Heater Fan Switch Test
Heater Fan Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch > Page 7634
Control Assembly: Testing and Inspection Mode Control Motor Test
Mode Control Motor Test
1. Connect battery power to the (1) terminal of the mode control motor and connect ground to the
(2) terminal. 2. Using a jumper wire, short the (2) terminal individually to the (3), (4), (5), (6), and (7)
terminals, in that order.
^ Each time the short circuit is made, the mode control motor should run smoothly and stop.
NOTE: If the mode control motor does not run when shorting the first terminal, short that terminal
again after shorting the other terminals. The mode control motor is normal if it runs when shorting
the first terminal again.
3. If the mode control motor does not run in step 2, remove it, and check the mode control linkage
and doors for smooth movement.
If the mode control linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the mode control motor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch > Page 7635
Control Assembly: Testing and Inspection Mode Control Switch Test
Mode Control Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch > Page 7636
Control Assembly: Testing and Inspection
A/C Switch & Fan Switch
A/C Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Heater Fan Switch Test
Heater Fan Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch > Page 7637
Mode Control Motor Test
Mode Control Motor Test
1. Connect battery power to the (1) terminal of the mode control motor and connect ground to the
(2) terminal. 2. Using a jumper wire, short the (2) terminal individually to the (3), (4), (5), (6), and (7)
terminals, in that order.
^ Each time the short circuit is made, the mode control motor should run smoothly and stop.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch > Page 7638
NOTE: If the mode control motor does not run when shorting the first terminal, short that terminal
again after shorting the other terminals. The mode control motor is normal if it runs when shorting
the first terminal again.
3. If the mode control motor does not run in step 2, remove it, and check the mode control linkage
and doors for smooth movement.
If the mode control linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the mode control motor.
Mode Control Switch Test
Mode Control Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Recirculation Control Motor Test
Recirculation Control Motor Test
1. Connect battery power to the (1) terminal of the recirculation control motor and connect ground
to the (2) and (3) terminals; the recirculation
control motor should run smoothly.
2. Disconnect ground from (2) or (3); the recirculation control motor should stop at FRESH or
RECIRCULATE.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch > Page 7639
CAUTION: Never connect the battery in the opposite direction.
NOTE: Don't cycle the recirculation control motor for a long time.
3. If the recirculation control motor does not run in step 1, remove it, and check the recirculation
control linkage and door for smooth movement. If
the recirculation control linkage and door move smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor.
Recirculation Control Switch Test
Recirculation Control Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Adjustments > Air Mix Control Cable Adjustment
Control Assembly: Adjustments Air Mix Control Cable Adjustment
Air Mix Control Cable Adjustment
1. Disconnect the heater valve cable from the heater valve. 2. Set the temperature control lever on
COOL. 3. Turn the cable arm to the stop and connect the end of the air mix control cable to the
cable arm.
4. Gently slide the air mix control cable outer housing back from the end enough to take up any
slack in the air mix control cable, but not enough to
make the temperature control lever move, then snap the air mix control cable housing into the
cable clamp.
NOTE: The heater valve cable should always be adjusted when ever the air mix control cable has
been disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Adjustments > Air Mix Control Cable Adjustment > Page 7642
Control Assembly: Adjustments Heater Valve Cable Adjustment
Heater Valve Cable Adjustment
1. Disconnect the heater valve cable from the heater valve. 2. Set the temperature control lever on
COOL. 3. Turn the cable arm to the stop and connect the end of the heater valve cable to the cable
arm.
4. Gently slide the heater valve cable outer housing back from the end enough to take up any slack
in the heater valve cable, but not enough to make
the temperature control lever move. Hold the end of the heater valve cable housing against the
stop, then snap the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp.
5. Turn the heater valve arm to shut and connect the end of the heater valve cable to the cable
arm.
6. Gently slide the heater valve cable outer housing back from the end enough to take up any slack
in the heater valve cable, but not enough to make
the temperature control lever move, then snap the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp.
NOTE: The air mix control cable should always be adjusted when ever the heater valve cable has
been disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Air Mix Control
Control Assembly: Service and Repair Air Mix Control
Removal and Installation
Air Mix Control Cable Replacement
1. Cut the inner cable on the lever side of the cable holder, then remove both pieces of the inner
cable. 2. Using a sharp knife, cut completely through the end of the cable housing at the two
locations. 3. Slide the large section of the cable housing out of the cable holder, being careful not to
damage the cable stoppers. 4. Carefully remove the cut pieces of the cable housing with a small
flat tip screwdriver. 5. Hook the tip of the new air mix cable to the temperature control lever, then
push the cable housing into the cable holder until it locks place.
NOTE: After assembly, check that the temperature control lever slides smoothly through the full
stroke from right to left.
Overhaul
Overhaul
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Air Mix Control > Page 7645
Control Assembly: Service and Repair Heater Control Panel
Replacement
1. Remove the center lower cover.
SRS wire harnesses are routed near the center lower cover.
CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II),
or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit; the
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Disassemble in numbered
sequence.
General Precautions
1. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as
dents, cracks or deformation: Airbag assemblies
- Cable reel
- SRS unit
2. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it's not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to
the smallest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could damage the airbag
circuit or cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Air Mix Control > Page 7646
3. Do not install used SRS parts from another car. When making SRS repairs, use only new parts.
4. Except when performing electrical inspections, always disconnect both the negative cable and
positive cable from the battery, and wait at least
three minutes before beginning work.
5. Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be
careful not to bump the SRS unit; the airbags
could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
6. Whenever the airbag has been activated, replace the SRS unit. 7. The original radio has a coded
theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code number before disconnecting the battery
cables. Use only
a digital multimeter to check the system. If it's not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10
mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the smallest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a
higher output could damage the airbag circuit or cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
8. Do not install used SRS parts from another car. When making SRS repairs, use only new parts.
9. Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be
careful not to bump the SRS unit; the airbags
could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
10. Whenever the airbag has been activated, replace the SRS unit. 11. The original radio has a
coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code number before disconnecting the
battery cables.
Airbag Handling and Storage
Do not try to disassemble the airbag assembly. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has
been operated (deployed), it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag
assembly during service, please observe the following precautions:
1. Store the removed airbag assembly with the pad surface up. If the airbag is improperly stored
face down, accidental deployment could propel the
unit with enough force to cause serious injury.
2. Store the removed airbag assembly on a secure flat surface away from any high heat source
(exceeding 212°F/1OO°C) and free of any oil, grease,
detergent or water.
CAUTION: Improper handling or storage can internally damage the airbag assembly, making it
inoperative. If you suspect the airbag assembly has been damaged, install a new unit and refer to
the Deployment/Disposal Procedures for disposing of the damaged airbag.
NOTE: Lift up the parking brake lever. Take care not to scratch the center and rear consoles and
dashboard.
CAUTION: When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Air Mix Control > Page 7647
NOTE: Do not drop the screws inside the dashboard. Take care not to bend the air mix control
cable. CAUTION: When prying with a flat tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent
damage.
3. Remove the radio/cassette player.
NOTE: The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before
- disconnecting the battery.
- removing the No.32 (7.5 A) fuse from the underhood fuse/relay box.
- removing the radio
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.
CAUTION: During installing or replacement, avoid strong impacts in the area near the SRS unit.
4. Remove the center instrument panel, then disconnect the 4-P connector from the cigarette
lighter.
5. Remove the two screws, then disconnect the 16-P connector and the antenna lead, and pull out
the radio/cassette player. 6. Disconnect the air mix control cable from the heater unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Air Mix Control > Page 7648
7. Disconnect the heater valve cable from the heater valve. 8. Set the temperature control lever on
COOL. 9. Turn the cable arm to the stop and connect the end of the air mix control cable to the
cable arm.
10. Gently slide the air mix control cable outer housing back from the end enough to take up any
slack in the air mix control cable, but not enough to
make the temperature control lever move, then snap the air mix control cable housing into the
cable clamp.
NOTE: The heater valve cable should always be adjusted when ever the air mix control cable has
been disconnected.
11. Remove the three self-tapping screws. Disconnect the connectors and remove the heater
control panel.
NOTE: The locking tabs are on the bottom of the connectors.
12. Install in the reverse order of removal, and refer to Air Mix Control Cable Replacement. If
necessary, adjust the heater valve cable.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Air Mix Control > Page 7649
Control Assembly: Service and Repair Mode Control Motor Replacement
Mode Control Motor Replacement
1. Disconnect the mode control motor 8P connector and remove the female connector from the
bracket. 2. Remove the two screws, the mode control motor and flange collar. 3. Install in the
reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the mode control motor operates smoothly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Air Mix Control > Page 7650
Control Assembly: Service and Repair Recirculation Control Motor Replacement
Recirculation Control Motor Replacement
1. Disconnect the 4P connector from the recirculation control motor and remove the wire harness
holder. 2. Remove the two screws, the recirculation control motor and flange collar. 3. Install in the
reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the recirculation control motor operates
smoothly.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Control Module HVAC: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7655
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7656
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7657
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7658
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7659
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7660
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7661
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7662
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7663
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7664
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7665
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7666
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7667
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7668
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7669
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7670
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Control Module HVAC: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7697
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7698
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7699
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7700
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7701
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7702
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Module HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7703
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Removal and Installation
Evaporator Core: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect both ground and positive battery cables, then remove battery. 3. Discharge A/C
system. 4. Remove bolts and disconnect receiver and suction lines from evaporator and plug lines.
5. Remove glove compartment and frame. 6. Disconnect electrical connector from A/C thermostat,
then remove clips or clamps from evaporator.
Fig. 24 Evaporator Housing Removal
7. Remove self-tapping screws, bolts and nut, Fig. 24. 8. Disconnect drain hose and remove
evaporator. 9. Pull evaporator sensor from evaporator fins.
10. Remove self-tapping screws and clips from housing. 11. Separate housings, then remove
evaporator covers. 12. Remove expansion valve, if necessary. When loosening expansion valve
nuts, use second wrench to hold valve or evaporator pipe to avoid
damaging them.
13. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Use new O-rings when installing expansion valve and connecting refrigerant lines. b. Install
expansion valve and secure valve sensor against suction line with tape. c. Reinstall evaporator
sensor in its original location. d. Ensure there is no air leakage in evaporator housing.
14. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Removal and Installation > Page 7708
Evaporator Core: Service and Repair Overhaul
Evaporator Overhaul
1. Pull the A/C thermostat sensor out of the evaporator fins. 2. Remove the self-tapping screws and
clips from the housing. 3. Carefully separate the housings, and remove the evaporator covers. 4.
Remove the expansion valve if necessary.
NOTE: When loosening the expansion valve nuts, use a second wrench to hold the expansion
valve or evaporator pipe, otherwise, they can be damaged.
- Assemble in the reverse order of disassembly, and: ^ Replace the all 0-rings with new ones at
each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (SP-10: P/N 38899-P13-AO 1) before installing
them.
NOTE: Be sure to use the right 0-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
^ Install the expansion valve capillary tube with the capillary tube in contact with the suction line
directly, and wrap it with tape. ^ Reinstall the A/C thermostat sensor to its original location.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component
Information > Locations
Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Locations
Behind Glove Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7712
Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
The A/C thermostat is located on the evaporator housing. The A/C thermostat turns OFF the A/C
compressor clutch if the temperature at the evaporator goes below 3°C (37°F). This prevents
condensation from freezing on the evaporator fins and blocking the air delivery into the passenger
compartment. If the temperature goes below 3°C (37°F) turning OFF the A/C thermostat, ground
will be removed from the condenser fan relay. The relay will deenergize removing voltage from the
condenser fan motor causing it to stop running.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7713
Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
A/C Thermostat Test
Connect battery power to terminal C and ground terminal B, and connect a test light between
terminals A and C.
NOTE: Use a 12 V, 3 W - 18 W test light.
Dip the A/C thermostat into a cup filled with ice water, and check the test light.
The light should go off at 37°F (3°C) or less, and should come on at 39°F (4°C) or more.
If the light doesn't come on and go off as specified, replace the A/C thermostat.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Valve > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Expansion Valve: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect battery ground cable and discharge A/C system using refrigerant recovery
equipment. 2. Disconnect receiver and suction lines from evaporator and plug lines. 3. Remove
glove box and frame. 4. Disconnect electrical connector from thermostat switch.
Fig. 22 Removing Evaporator Housing Supports
5. Remove self-tapping screws and bands, Fig. 22.
Fig. 23 Evaporator Housing Removal
6. Remove mounting bolts and evaporator housing, Fig. 23. 7. Remove evaporator sensor from the
evaporator fins. 8. Separate housings, then remove evaporator cover. 9. The expansion valve can
be removed after the evaporator has been lifted out of the case.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Valve > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 7717
9. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Use new O-rings when installing expansion valve and connecting refrigerant lines. b. Install
expansion valve and secure valve sensor against suction line with tape. c. Reinstall evaporator
sensor in its original location. d. Ensure there is no air leakage in the evaporator housing.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Control Valve > Heater Control Valve Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air
Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows
Hot Air
Heater Blows Cold Air; A/C Blows Warm Air
NOTE:
This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle
in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just
be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm.
There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm.
Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058),
and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Control Valve > Heater Control Valve Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air > Page 7723
Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows
Warm Air
SOURCE: Honda Service News
TITLE: Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air
APPLIES TO: all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable.
SERVICE TIP:
Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C ? The
problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real
easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut
yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on
the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Heater Core: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7728
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7729
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7730
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7731
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7732
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7733
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7734
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7735
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7736
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7737
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7738
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7739
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7740
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7741
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7742
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7743
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Heater Core: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7770
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7771
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7772
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7773
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7774
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7775
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 7776
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
7777
Heater Core: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system.
3. Snap open cable clip, then disconnect heater valve cable from heater valve.
4. Disconnect heater hoses at heater, then remove heater unit mounting nut from engine
compartment side. 5. Remove instrument panel. 6. Remove heat duct or evaporator and steering
column bracket.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
7778
7. Remove clip, heater mounting nuts and heater assembly.
Fig. 16 Heater Core Removal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
7779
8. Remove heater core cover attaching screws, then the cover, Fig. 16. 9. Remove pipe clamp and
damper arm attaching screws.
10. Pull heater core from heater housing. Ensure care is taken not to bend inlet and outlet pipes
during removal. 11. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Do not interchange inlet and outlet hoses. b. Connect all cables and ensure they are properly
adjusted.
12. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures.
On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system
disarming and arming procedures.
13. After refilling cooling system, bleed cooling system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component Information >
Service and Repair
High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Service and Repair
Relief Valve Replacement
Removal
NOTE: Make sure the suction and discharge ports are plugged with caps.
1. Remove the relief valve cover, relief valve, and 0-ring.
NOTE: Be sure to use the right 0-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
CAUTION: Be careful not to spill compressor oil, and make sure there is no foreign matter in the
system.
Installation 1. Clean off the relief valve mating surface. 2. Replace the relief valve 0-ring with a new
one and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (SP-1O: P/N 38899-P13-AO1) before installing it.
NOTE: ^ To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed and never
mix it with other refrigerant oils. ^ Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container,
and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. ^ Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the car; it may damage
the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately.
3. Tighten the relief valve. 4. Put the cover on the relief valve so that the arrow points downwards
as shown above. 5. Check the relief valve for leaks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection
07-030
October 12, 2007
Applies To: ALL Vehicles With Conventional A/C Compressors
A/C Leak Detection
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
The kit contains:
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
^ TRP3887, R-134a Universal Connect Set(TM)
^ TRP120884, GLO-AWAY(TM) dye cleaner
^ TRP9940, fluorescence-enhancing glasses
^ TRP1143, (1) empty Tracer-Stick dye capsule
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
USING THE OPTIMAX JR.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 7787
1. Before adding any leak-detection dye, check to see if there is dye in the system now.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
^ If there is no dye in the system, go to step 2.
^ If there is dye in the system, go to step 5. Do not add more dye.
2. Add the dye.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 7788
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
4. Connect the NC service equipment:
With the universal connect set and dye capsule attached to the vehicle's low-side service port,
connect the A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's low-side hose quick coupler to the
service valve fitting. Open the blue hand-wheel valves on both quick couplers. Leave the control
valve (black knob) on the universal connect set closed.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
5. Inspect the A/C system for leaks:
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 7789
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
(c) Inspect the entire system. Be sure to check these locations:
^ damaged and corroded areas
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
^ brazed or welded areas
^ areas near attachment points
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant:
Capacity, Lbs. ......................................................................................................................................
................................................................... 1.2 Type ...........................................................................
....................................................................................................................................... R-134a
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 7792
Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications
A/C Refrigerant ....................................................................................................................................
...................................................................... R-134a
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Oil: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Oil Type: SP-10: P/N 38899-P13-AO1 Refrigerant Oil Capacity:
Condenser: 20 ml (2/3 fl.oz, 0.7 imp.oz) Evaporator: 45 ml (1 1/2 fl.oz, 1.6 imp.oz) Line or hose: 10
ml (1/3 fl.oz, 0.4 imp.oz) Receiver/Dryer: 10 ml (1/3 fl.oz, 0.4 imp.oz) Leakage repair: 25 ml (5/6
fl.oz, 0.9 imp.oz) Compressor: For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained
from the removed compressor from 120 ml (4 fl.oz, 4.2 imp.oz), and drain the calculated volume of
oil from the new compressor. 120 ml (4 fl.oz, 4.2 imp.oz) - Volume of removed compressor =
Volume to drain from new compressor.
NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed compressor, don't drain more than 50 ml (1 2/3
fl.oz, 1.8 imp.oz) from the new compressor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 7797
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Oil Type ............................................................................................................................
......................................................................... SP-10 Honda PN .......................................................
........................................................................................................................................
38897-P13-A01AH Honda Code .........................................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 5023627
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Locations
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Locations
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7801
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied through fuse 35 to the A/C compressor clutch relay contacts at all times.
With the ignition switch in ON (II), voltage is applied to the coil of the A/C compressor clutch relay
through fuse 13. When you push the A/C switch ON, and the heater fan switch is in position 1, 2, 3,
or 4, a "ground" input is provided to the engine control module (ECM) through the A/C thermostat
and the A/C pressure switch.
The A/C compressor clutch relay is grounded by the engine control module (ECM). When
energized, the A/C compressor clutch relay allows battery voltage to turn on the A/C compressor
clutch.
The A/C ON indicator light comes on when the A/C system is requested.
The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high
temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and
open the circuit. This removes ground, and the compressor will stop running.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Blower Motor Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 7806
Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Relay Test
- There should be continuity between the C and D terminals.
- There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
- There should be no continuity when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 7810
Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection
Relay Test
- There should be continuity between the C and D terminals.
- There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
- There should be no continuity when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay,
HVAC > Component Information > Locations > Photo 19
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Photo 19
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay,
HVAC > Component Information > Locations > Photo 19 > Page 7815
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Photo 31
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay,
HVAC > Component Information > Locations > Page 7816
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Relay Test
- There should be continuity between the C and D terminals.
- There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
- There should be no continuity when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Control Module HVAC: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7821
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7822
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7823
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7824
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7825
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7826
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7827
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7828
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7829
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7830
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7831
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7832
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7833
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7834
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7835
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7836
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7837
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7838
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7839
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7840
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7841
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7842
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7843
Control Module HVAC: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7844
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7845
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7846
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7847
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7848
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7849
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7850
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7851
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7852
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7853
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7854
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7856
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7857
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7858
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7862
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Air Conditioning Switch: Testing and Inspection
A/C Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Blower Motor Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7884
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7891
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7892
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Blower Motor Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7910
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7919
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7920
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7921
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7922
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7923
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7924
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7925
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7926
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7927
Blower Motor Switch: Testing and Inspection
Heater Fan Switch Test
Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Evaporator Temperature
Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations
Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Locations
Behind Glove Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Evaporator Temperature
Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7931
Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
The A/C thermostat is located on the evaporator housing. The A/C thermostat turns OFF the A/C
compressor clutch if the temperature at the evaporator goes below 3°C (37°F). This prevents
condensation from freezing on the evaporator fins and blocking the air delivery into the passenger
compartment. If the temperature goes below 3°C (37°F) turning OFF the A/C thermostat, ground
will be removed from the condenser fan relay. The relay will deenergize removing voltage from the
condenser fan motor causing it to stop running.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Evaporator Temperature
Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 7932
Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
A/C Thermostat Test
Connect battery power to terminal C and ground terminal B, and connect a test light between
terminals A and C.
NOTE: Use a 12 V, 3 W - 18 W test light.
Dip the A/C thermostat into a cup filled with ice water, and check the test light.
The light should go off at 37°F (3°C) or less, and should come on at 39°F (4°C) or more.
If the light doesn't come on and go off as specified, replace the A/C thermostat.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Locations
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Locations
Photo 19 - A/C Pressure Switch
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Locations > Page 7936
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied through fuse 35 to the A/C compressor clutch relay contacts at all times.
With the ignition switch in ON (II), voltage is applied to the coil of the A/C compressor clutch relay
through fuse 13. When you push the A/C switch ON, and the heater fan switch is in position 1, 2, 3,
or 4, a "ground" input is provided to the engine control module (ECM) through the A/C thermostat
and the A/C pressure switch.
The A/C compressor clutch relay is grounded by the engine control module (ECM). When
energized, the A/C compressor clutch relay allows battery voltage to turn on the A/C compressor
clutch.
The A/C ON indicator light comes on when the A/C system is requested.
The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high
temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and
open the circuit. This removes ground, and the compressor will stop running.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Thermal Limiting Fuse > Component Information > Locations
Thermal Limiting Fuse: Locations
Photo 3 - A/C Compressor Thermal Protector
Left Front Corner Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Thermal Limiting Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Page 7940
Thermal Limiting Fuse: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied through fuse 35 to the A/C compressor clutch relay contacts at all times.
With the ignition switch in ON (II), voltage is applied to the coil of the A/C compressor clutch relay
through fuse 13. When you push the A/C switch ON, and the heater fan switch is in position 1, 2, 3,
or 4, a "ground" input is provided to the Engine Control Module (ECM) through the A/C thermostat
and the A/C pressure switch.
The A/C compressor clutch relay is grounded by the Engine Control Module (ECM). When
energized, the A/C compressor clutch relay allows battery voltage to turn ON the A/C compressor
clutch.
The A/C ON indicator light comes ON when the A/C system is requested.
The thermal protector, located on the A/C compressor, opens and turns the compressor OFF if it
senses high temperature. Once the compressor cools, the switch will close and the compressor will
begin running again.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Thermal Limiting Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Page 7941
Thermal Limiting Fuse: Service and Repair
Thermal Protector Replacement
1. Remove the bolt, ground terminal, and connector holder. 2. Remove the thermal protector.
Remove the residue of silicone sealant from the top of the thermal protector.
3. Apply silicone sealant to the top of the thermal protector. 4. Install in the reverse order of
removal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Dash Sensor Mounting Bolts ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 16 Driver Side Air Bag Assembly To Steering Wheel Bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 7.2
Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting Nuts & Bolts ..................................................................................
............................................................................. 7.2 SRS Unit Mounting Bolts .................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 7.2 Steering Wheel To Column Steering Shaft Nut ..........................................................................
....................................................................................... 36
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications > Page 7947
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
SRS connectors automatically short when disconnected.
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications > Page 7948
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair
The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) must be disarmed prior to disconnecting any electrical
connectors or servicing any system components or items located near SRS electrical connectors.
SRS electrical wiring can be identified by its yellow outer protective coating. To disarm the SRS,
proceed as follows:
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
Fig. 1 Driver Air Bag Disarming
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
will allow air bag system back-up circuit capacitor to discharge.
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1 5. Remove glove compartment and access panel.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications > Page 7949
Fig. 4 Passenger Air Bag Disarming
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 4.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications > Page 7950
Fig. 12 Fuse Panel/SRS Connector
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 12, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, A SYSTEM MALFUNCTION IS
INDICATED. Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Testing and Inspection/Initial
Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Driver Airbag Replacement
Air Bag: Service and Repair Driver Airbag Replacement
WARNING: Prior to disconnecting any Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) electrical connectors
or servicing any system components or other components located near a SRS electrical connector,
the SRS must be disarmed. Refer to Technician Safety Information. SRS electrical wiring can be
identified by a yellow outer protective coating. Store a removed air bag assembly with the pad
surface up. If the air bag is stored face down, accidental deployment could propel the unit with
enough force to cause serious injury.
REMOVAL
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable.
Fig. 24 Driver Side Air Bag Mounting
3. Remove two air bag assembly attaching bolts, then the air bag assembly, Fig. 24.
INSTALLATION
1. Position driver side air bag assembly to steering wheel, then install the two attaching bolts.
Tighten attaching bolts to specifications. 2. Reconnect battery positive cable, then negative cable.
3. After completing installation, place ignition switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be
illuminated for approximately six seconds, then
lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS is
indicated.
4. If vehicle is equipped with radio theft protection, place radio control knob in On position. When
the word Code appears on the radio display panel,
enter the five-digit radio theft protection code number. Turn ignition switch On and observe
instrument panel SRS indicator light. It should come On for approximately six seconds, then turn
Off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Driver Airbag Replacement > Page 7955
Air Bag: Service and Repair Passenger Airbag Replacement
REMOVAL
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable. 3. Remove glove compartment and
access panel. 4. Remove six air bag assembly mounting nuts.
Fig. 28 Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting
4. Carefully lift air bag assembly from instrument panel, Fig. 28.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the air bag assembly in the instrument panel, then install six mounting nuts, Fig. 28. Do
not tighten the mounting nuts at this time. 2. Tighten the upper four mounting nuts, then the two
lower mounting nuts to specifications. The lower mounting brackets are adjustable and can be
used to properly position the air bag assembly.
3. Install the access panel and glove compartment. 4. Reconnect battery positive cable, then
negative cable. 5. After completing installation, place ignition switch in On position. SRS indicator
lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds, then
lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS is
indicated.
6. If vehicle is equipped with radio theft protection, place radio control knob in On position. When
the word Code appears on the radio display panel,
enter the five-digit radio theft protection code number.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Driver Airbag Replacement > Page 7956
Air Bag: Service and Repair Airbag Assembly Disposal and Deployment
When handling a deployed air bag assembly, a face shield and rubber gloves should be worn.
Vehicle interior and A/C, vent, defroster and heater ducts should be vacuumed. If sinus or throat
irritation is encountered during air bag removal, exit vehicle and breathe fresh air. If skin irritation is
encountered, flush effected area with cool water. If sinus, throat, skin or any other type of irritation
continues, consult a physician. After handling a deployed air bag assembly, wash hands and rinse
thoroughly with water.
An air bag that has been deployed should be removed from the vehicle. Prior to removing a
deployed air bag assembly, place tape over air bag exhaust vents. After unit has been removed, it
should be placed in a heavy duty plastic bag and sealed securely. The sealed plastic bag should
then be placed with automotive scrap. An air bag assembly that has not been deployed, must be
deployed prior to disposal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Locations
Air Bag Control Module: Locations
Right Side Of Driver's Footwell
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Locations > Page 7960
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable. 3. Pull down carpeting from both sides of
front console and remove harness protector. 4. Disconnect SRS control unit connector. 5. Remove
four SRS control unit mounting bolts, then control unit from vehicle. 6. Reverse procedure to install,
noting the following:
a. Tighten attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition switch in
On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
7. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Locations
Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Locations
Bottom Of Steering Wheel
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Locations > Page 7964
Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Service and Repair
Store a removed air bag assembly with the pad surface up. If the air bag is stored face down,
accidental deployment could propel the unit with enough force to cause serious injury.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable. 2. Ensure front wheels are aligned
straight forward. 3. Remove lower cover and driver side knee bolster. 5. Remove driver side air
bag. 6. Disconnect horn and cruise control electrical connectors. 7. Remove cable reel 3-P
electrical from clip. 8. Remove steering wheel nut and steering wheel. 9. Remove steering column
covers.
Fig. 31 Cable Reel Replacement
9. Disconnect cable reel 6-P electrical connector, then remove connector holder, Fig. 31.
10. Remove the cable reel and canceling sleeve from the steering column.
INSTALLATION
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Locations > Page 7965
Fig. 32 Aligning Able Reel & Cancelling Sleeve Projections
1. Align canceling sleeve grooves and cable reel projections, Fig. 32. 2. Install the cable reel to
steering column. 3. Install cable reel 6-P electrical connector holder, Fig. 31. 4. Install steering
column covers.
Fig. 33 Centering Cable Reel
5. Center the cable reel by rotating clockwise until stop is contacted. Rotate the cable reel
counterclockwise, approximately two turns, until yellow
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Locations > Page 7966
gear tooth is aligned with mark on cover and arrow mark on cable reel cover is pointing straight
upward, Fig. 33.
6. Ensure front wheels are in the straight ahead position, then position steering wheel on steering
shaft. 7. Attach cable reel 3-P electrical connector to clip. 8. Connect the horn and cruise control
electrical connectors. 9. Install and tighten steering wheel retaining nut to specifications.
10. Install the driver side air bag assembly. 11. Place ignition switch in On position. SRS indicator
lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds, then lamp should turn off. If lamp
remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS is indicated.
12. If vehicle is equipped with radio theft protection, place radio control knob in On position. When
the word Code appears on the radio display panel,
enter the five-digit radio theft protection code number. Turn ignition switch on and observe
instrument panel SRS indicator light. It should come on for approximately six seconds, then turn
off.
Fig. 34 Cable Reel Alignment
13. After installation is complete, double check cable reel installation by rotating steering wheel
counterclockwise until yellow gear tooth lines up with
slot on cover, Fig. 34.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Diagnostic Connector, Air Bag > Component
Information > Locations
Diagnostic Connector: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Impact Sensor > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove footrest and left door sill molding, then pull back carpet.
Fig. 35 Dash Sensor Mounting
3. Remove dash sensor protector, then sensor mounting bolts and dash sensor, Fig. 35. 4.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Tighten dash attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition
switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Safing Sensor, Air Bag > Component Information >
Locations
Safing Sensor: Locations
The Safing Sensor is located within the SRS Unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Malfunction Lamp / Indicator, Air Bag > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Malfunction Lamp / Indicator, Air Bag > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 7980
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Malfunction Lamp / Indicator, Air Bag > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7981
Malfunction Lamp / Indicator: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Malfunction Lamp / Indicator, Air Bag > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7982
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Malfunction Lamp / Indicator, Air Bag > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7983
The SRS Indicator Light Doesn't Come On.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Air Bag Control Module: Locations
Right Side Of Driver's Footwell
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 7988
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable. 3. Pull down carpeting from both sides of
front console and remove harness protector. 4. Disconnect SRS control unit connector. 5. Remove
four SRS control unit mounting bolts, then control unit from vehicle. 6. Reverse procedure to install,
noting the following:
a. Tighten attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition switch in
On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
7. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Dash Sensor Mounting Bolts ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 16 Driver Side Air Bag Assembly To Steering Wheel Bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 7.2
Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting Nuts & Bolts ..................................................................................
............................................................................. 7.2 SRS Unit Mounting Bolts .................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 7.2 Steering Wheel To Column Steering Shaft Nut ..........................................................................
....................................................................................... 36
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications > Page 7993
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
SRS connectors automatically short when disconnected.
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications > Page 7994
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair
The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) must be disarmed prior to disconnecting any electrical
connectors or servicing any system components or items located near SRS electrical connectors.
SRS electrical wiring can be identified by its yellow outer protective coating. To disarm the SRS,
proceed as follows:
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
Fig. 1 Driver Air Bag Disarming
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
will allow air bag system back-up circuit capacitor to discharge.
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1 5. Remove glove compartment and access panel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications > Page 7995
Fig. 4 Passenger Air Bag Disarming
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 4.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Specifications > Page 7996
Fig. 12 Fuse Panel/SRS Connector
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 12, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, A SYSTEM MALFUNCTION IS
INDICATED. Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Air Bag Systems/Testing and
Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Seat Belt: > 93033 > Jun > 96 > Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken
Seat Belt: Customer Interest Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken
Bulletin No. 93-033
Issue Date JUNE 3, 1996
Model: 1992 and Later [NEW]
Applicable To: ALL except PASSPORT [NEW]
File Under: BODY
Broken Seat Belt Tongue Stopper Button (Supersedes 93-033, dated October 22, 1993)
PROBLEM
The seat belt tongue stopper button is broken, allowing the tongue to slide down to the floor.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a new seat belt tongue stopper button listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Slide the seat belt tongue up the seat belt past the tongue stopper button hole. Temporarily
secure the seat belt tongue to the belt fabric with masking tape.
2. Insert the male section of the button through the hole in the belt fabric. Align and install the
female section of the stopper to the male section.
3. Preset the closed gap on a pair of vise-grip pliers to 4.5 mm.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Seat Belt: > 93033 > Jun > 96 > Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken > Page
8005
4. Place the flat portion of the jaws over the tongue stopper, and squeeze until the vise-grip jaws
lock and deform the stopper shaft.
PARTS INFORMATION
Seat Belt Tongue Stopper:
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Warranty Coverage:
Seat belts that fail to function properly during normal use are covered under warranty for the useful
life of the car.
Warranty Does Not Cover:
^ Malfunction due to abuse, alteration, accidental damage or damage resulting from a collision or
misuse.
^ Replacement of a properly functioning seat belt for cosmetic or comfort reasons.
Operation number: 854125
Flat rate time: 0.2 hour (one or two sides)
Failed part: P/N 04814-SM1-AO2ZA [NEW] H/C 3919289
Defect code: L18
Contention code: A02
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt: > 93033 > Jun > 96 > Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button
Broken
Seat Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken
Bulletin No. 93-033
Issue Date JUNE 3, 1996
Model: 1992 and Later [NEW]
Applicable To: ALL except PASSPORT [NEW]
File Under: BODY
Broken Seat Belt Tongue Stopper Button (Supersedes 93-033, dated October 22, 1993)
PROBLEM
The seat belt tongue stopper button is broken, allowing the tongue to slide down to the floor.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a new seat belt tongue stopper button listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Slide the seat belt tongue up the seat belt past the tongue stopper button hole. Temporarily
secure the seat belt tongue to the belt fabric with masking tape.
2. Insert the male section of the button through the hole in the belt fabric. Align and install the
female section of the stopper to the male section.
3. Preset the closed gap on a pair of vise-grip pliers to 4.5 mm.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt: > 93033 > Jun > 96 > Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button
Broken > Page 8011
4. Place the flat portion of the jaws over the tongue stopper, and squeeze until the vise-grip jaws
lock and deform the stopper shaft.
PARTS INFORMATION
Seat Belt Tongue Stopper:
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Warranty Coverage:
Seat belts that fail to function properly during normal use are covered under warranty for the useful
life of the car.
Warranty Does Not Cover:
^ Malfunction due to abuse, alteration, accidental damage or damage resulting from a collision or
misuse.
^ Replacement of a properly functioning seat belt for cosmetic or comfort reasons.
Operation number: 854125
Flat rate time: 0.2 hour (one or two sides)
Failed part: P/N 04814-SM1-AO2ZA [NEW] H/C 3919289
Defect code: L18
Contention code: A02
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8016
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8017
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8018
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8019
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8020
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8021
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8022
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8023
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8024
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8057
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8058
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8061
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8062
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8065
Seat Belt And Ignition Key Reminders
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> Diagrams > Page 8066
Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is applied to the seat belt reminder
light. When the seat belt is not buckled the seat belt reminder/key-ON beeper circuit in the
integrated control unit senses ground through the closed seat belt switch. The seat belt reminder
light flashes ON and OFF for five seconds. The reminder light and beeper will go OFF when the
seat belt is buckled or the timer circuit deactivates them.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove footrest and left door sill molding, then pull back carpet.
Fig. 35 Dash Sensor Mounting
3. Remove dash sensor protector, then sensor mounting bolts and dash sensor, Fig. 35. 4.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Tighten dash attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition
switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Component Information > Locations
Safing Sensor: Locations
The Safing Sensor is located within the SRS Unit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information
Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220
Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information
98-011
February 20, 2004
Applies To: ALL
Keyless Remote Transmitter Information (Supersedes 98-011, dated February 6, 2003)
Updated information is shown by asterisks and a black bar.
This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering,
and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below.
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Information > Page 8081
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Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8082
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Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8083
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Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8084
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Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8085
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Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8086
Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide
90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL
1990-93 Accord (2-door and 4-door) with dealer-installed security system
1992-93 Civic with dealer-installed security system
1993 del Sol with dealer-installed security system
1992-93 Prelude with dealer-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTE:
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Information > Page 8087
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip in place.
4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter.
5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
8. Press the reset button next to the ROM chip.
9. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit.
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from
American Honda.
If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
Batteries for the Transmitter
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Information > Page 8088
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
94-95 Accord, Civic, Del SOL, Prelude & 95 Odyssey
1994-95 Accord with dealer-installed security system
1994-95 Civic with dealer-installed security system
1994-95 del Sol with dealer-installed security system
1994-95 Prelude with dealer-installed security system
1995 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the
transmitter's code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash
after each transmitter code is accepted.
5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
96-98 Civic EX & Except EX, Civic
1996-98 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
1996-98 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system
1996-98 Civic with dealer-installed security system
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Information > Page 8089
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to four transmitters.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE
buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or
programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the
programming mode.
3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power
door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters.
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit
programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
99-04 Civic, 03-04 Accord, Element, Pilot
1999-00 Civic Value Package with factory-installed keyless entry system
1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
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Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8090
2003-04 Accord DX with dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Element with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Pilot EX models with factory-installed security system*
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
91-93 Accord 5-D00R EX
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8091
1991-93 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry or dealer-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
The transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The
transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery is not replaceable.
91-93 Accord 5-Door LX
1991-93 Accord 5-door LX with dealer-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send
a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts
Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address:
Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90501-5745
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8092
On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500)
552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
94-97 Accord 5-Door EX, 95-98 Odyssey EX
1994-97 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
1995-98 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTE:
^ The system accepts up to two transmitters.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
1. Open the driver's door.
2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the
switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times
total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will
exit the programming mode.)
4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode.
5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the
driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code.
6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter.
7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
96-04 Accord, CRV, DelSOL, Ody., Prelude, S2000, Insight, Pilot
1996-02 Accord with dealer-installed security system
1998-02 Accord DX & LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8093
1997-01 CR-V with dealer-installed security system
1996-97 del Sol with dealer-installed security system
1996-98 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system
*1999-04 Odyssey LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system*
1996-01 Prelude with dealer-installed security system
*2000-04 S2000 with dealer-installed security system
2000-04 Insight with dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Pilot LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system*
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8094
1997 Accord SE With Factory-Installed Security System
1997 Accord SE with factory-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
98-02 Accord EX & 00-02 Accord SE
1998-02 Accord EX with factory-installed security system
2000 and 2002 Accord SE with factory-installed security system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8095
(Not interchangeable with CR-V and S2000 remote transmitter)
Transmitter Identification
The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not
interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not
open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release
button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1
seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second.
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
03-04 Accord LX and EX
2003-04 Accord LX and EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8096
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR1616. Each transmitter uses one battery.
97-04 CR-V & 00-04 S2000
*1997-04 CR-V LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system
1998-04 CR-V EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
2000-01 CR-V SE with factory-installed keyless entry system
2000-04 S2000 with factory-installed keyless entry system
2002-04 CR-V with dealer-installed security system*
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8097
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
99-04 Odyssey EX
1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*2001-04 Odyssey EX models with factory- installed security system*
*Transmitter Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8098
The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart,
look at the FCC ID on the back.
1999-00 - FCC ID: E4EG8DN
2001-04 - FCC ID: OUCG8D-440H-A*
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting
the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
99-01 Prelude With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System
1999-01 Prelude with factory-installed keyless entry system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8099
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
88-91 Prelude With Dealer-Installed Security System
1988-91 Prelude with dealer-installed security system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8100
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering a Transmitter
This transmitter is no longer available.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
97-99 EV Plus With Factory-Installed Security System
1997-99 EV Plus with factory-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only through Tech Line.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
00-04 Insight With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System
2000-04 Insight with factory-installed keyless entry system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8101
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
94-95 Passport (Except 1995-1/2)
1994-95 Passport (except 19951A) with dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be
accepted.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8102
Programming the Transmitter
1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren
then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals.
5. Release the programming button.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you
wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait
more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the
system exits the programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK.
9. Test all the transmitters.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8103
96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System
1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a
third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
Programming the Transmitter
1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor
underneath the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control
unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK, then to ON.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8104
6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the
instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5
seconds of each other.)
7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work
repeat steps 2 thru 7.
9. If you have another transmitter to program, repeat steps 2 thru 7.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
98-02 Passport With Factory-Installed Security System
1998-02 Passport with factory-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
To program the transmitters, use one of these two procedures:
^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the
previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all
transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed.
^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned
codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters.
Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter)
1. Open the driver's door.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.)
3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and
open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle
once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Procedure Two (adds transmitters)
1. Open the driver's door.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8105
system will not enter the programming mode.)
3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close
and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Turning the Audible Chirp On/Off (1998-99 only)
NOTE:
On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the
transmitter a second time.
1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock.
2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more
times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.)
3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.
4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position,
three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm
that the chirp has been turned on/off.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8106
Technical Service Bulletin # 96-046 Date: 961021
Keyless Entry - Transmitter Programming Information
Bulletin No. 96-046
Issue Date OCT 21, 1996
Model ALL
Applicable To Refer to the list below
File Under ACCESSORIES
Keyless Remote Transmitter Information
This Service Bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering*,
and transmitter batteries. A transmitter quick reference guide is included.
Use this index to find the information for the vehicle you are working on.
Vehicle: Procedure Number:
Civic
1992-93 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 8
del Sol
1993 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 7
Accord
1990-93 (except Wagon) 2
1991-93 EX Wagon 3
1991-93 LX Wagon 4
1994-95 (with optional security system) 5
1994-97 EX Wagon 6
1996-97 (with optional security system) 7
Prelude
1988-91 1
1992-93 (with optional security system) 2
1994-95 (with optional security system) 5
1996-97 (with optional security system) 7
Odyssey
1995 (with optional security system) 5
1995-97 EX 6
1996-97 (with optional security system) 7
Passport
1994-95 (with optional security system,
not applicable to 1995.5 model) 9
1996-97 (with optional security system) 10
*Transmitter prices are subject to change without notice.
PARTS INFORMATION
Transmitter ordering information and battery part numbers are in each transmitter section.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8107
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None. This Service Bulletin is for information only.
TRANSMITTER QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE
Procedure 1
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8108
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Alpine of America by authorized Honda Dealers only.
Send a completed order form (found in Parts Information Bulletin A91 -0031) along with a dealer
check for $59.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this address:
Honda/Alpine V.S.S. P.O. Box 2859 Torrance, CA 90509
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
Procedure 2
Programming the Transmitter
NOTE:
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8109
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip into place.
4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter.
5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
8. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit.
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter, and install it in the new one.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
8319. For each set ordered, send a dealer check for $24.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this
address:
Alpine Electronics of America 19145 Gramercy Place Torrance, CA 90501 Attention: Al Sula
(Parts)
Alpine's ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Additional transmitters can be ordered
from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures.
If you have questions on how to order the four ROM chip set, call Alpine's Parts Department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8110
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 3
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the HONDANET 2000
system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery is not replaceable.
Procedure 4
Programming the Transmitter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8111
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA by authorized Honda Dealers only. Send
a completed order form,* (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer
Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.), to this
address:
Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90801-5745
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at
(800)852-4690, or Fax them at (310) 898-1029 (weekdays, from 8:30 A.M. thru 4:00 PM., PST).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your Dealership C.O.D. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
*On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
Procedure 5
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during the procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
wheel cover flashes when the system is in the programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. The parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's
code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. The parking lights flash after each
transmitter code is accepted.
5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8112
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 6
Programming the Transmitter
NOTE:
Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
1. Open the driver's door.
2. Press and hold the driver's door master power door lock switch up in the unlock position.
(Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key in the ignition switch and remove it. Repeat this four more times within 10
seconds, then leave the key in the switch. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the
system is in the programming mode. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
system will exit the programming mode.)
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that all power door locks
(except the driver's) cycle to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the system.
5. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter. (You can program two transmitters per vehicle.)
6. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
Procedure 7
Programming the Transmitter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8113
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on one of the transmitters. (A non-programmed
transmitter can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times with the transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
6. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter. Check that the power door
locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode.
7. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on each transmitter. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle) Check that the power door locks cycle after you push each transmitter
button, confirming that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 8
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8114
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM button and the
CD/TAPE button) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during the
procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm
that you're in the programming mode.
3. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle
to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on all other transmitters. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle.)
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the
programming mode.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 9
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
Programming the Transmitter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8115
1. Locate the security system control unit mounted under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
3. Turn the ignition switch on, then turn it off.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst to confirm that you're in the programming mode. The siren then emits
prompting chirps at three-second intervals.
5. Release the programming button.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to let you know that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If
you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter or
between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps, and the system exits the
programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch on, then turn it off.
9. Push all the function buttons on each transmitter to make sure they work correctly.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 10
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8116
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times,
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward, and locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor,
underneath the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch on.
3. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit with a pen or pencil.
When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Check that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front marker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by
the control unit.
5. If you have other transmitters to program, repeat steps 3 and 4.
6. Turn the ignition switch off to exit the programming mode.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 8117
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. One battery per transmitter is needed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
DVD Player: Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
Adhesive Labels or Protective Disc Covers on CDs or
DVDs:
A Big Taboo
NOTE:
This article applies to all Honda models with a factory- or dealer-installed CD/DVD player or
changer.
We can't emphasize this enough: Never put adhesive labels or protective disc covers on
recordable CDs or DVDs to be used in automotive CD/DVD players or changers. Here's why:
^ Recordable CDs and DVDs are actually thicker than their pre-recorded brethern. Automotive
players and changers use rollers to draw the disc into the
unit. The added thickness of an adhesive label or a protective disc cover can cause the disc to jam
when it's loaded into or ejected from the unit.
^ CD/DVD players or changers are exposed to high temperatures inside the vehicle. High
temperature can cause the label adhesive to soften. This can
cause the label to curl on the edges and even form bubbles. Curled edges can catch on the rollers
and bubbles add thickness to the disc. Either one can cause the disc to jam.
To cut down on customer-caused damage, all '05 and later 0/Ms include this notice:
Do not use CDs with adhesive labels. The label can curl up and cause the CD to jam in the unit.
Anytime a service customer comes in with a loading or ejecting problem for a CD/DVD player or
changer, ask if he or she used any discs with adhesive labels or protective disc covers. If the
answer is yes, contact your DPSM for possible goodwill assistance. If the answer is no, then
replace the audio unit under normal warranty.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit
with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes
Compact Disc Player (CD): Customer Interest Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes
00-015
March 14, 2000
Applies To: All with CD Player/Changer
Audio Unit Error Codes (Replaces 91-007, dated October 6, 1997)
*If the audio unit displays an error code, use the troubleshooting tables in this service bulletin to
troubleshoot the problem. Refer to service bulletin 98-019 for CD Player/Changer exchange
information.*
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit
with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8132
CD Changer Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
CD Player Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
Radio Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit
with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8133
CD Player/Changer Troubleshooting (Passport only)
Manually Removing a Jammed Magazine (All except Passport)
One-piece door model:
1. Remove the changer from the vehicle.
2. Remove the rear cover plate from the changer, and look for a jammed disc.
3. If a disc is jammed between the player and the magazine, turn the loading gear until the disc
returns to the player mechanism. Do not attempt to reload the disc back into the magazine.
4. After the disc is loaded into the player mechanism, turn the changer so that the front is facing
you.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit
with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8134
5. Insert a thin stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1-1/2" from the right
side of the opening.
6. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
7. Slowly remove the ruler and magazine at the same time.
Two-piece door model:
1. Remove the changer from the vehicle.
2. Remove the top cover plate from the changer, and look for a jammed tray.
3. If a tray is stuck in the player, reinstall the cover and replace the changer. If all the trays are in
the magazine, insert a thin stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from
the right side of the opening.
4. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
5. Slowly remove the ruler and magazine at the same time.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit
with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8135
Manually Removing a Jammed Magazine (Passport only)
One-piece door model:
1. Open the changer door.
2. Check to see if all the trays are in the magazine.
^ If a tray is stuck in the changer, replace the changer.
^ If all the trays are in the magazine, place the changer in a horizontal position, and insert a thin
stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from the right side of the
opening.
3. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
4. Slowly remove the ruler and magazine at the same time.
Two-piece door model:
1. Remove the changer from the vehicle.
2. Remove the top cover plate from the changer, and inspect for a jammed tray.
^ If a tray is stuck in the changer, replace the changer.
^ If all the trays are in the magazine, place the changer in a horizontal position, and insert a thin
stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from the right side of the
opening.
3. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
4. Slowly remove the ruler and magazine at the same time.
Handling and Inspecting Compact Discs
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit
with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8136
^ Handle a CD by its edges; never touch the flat surfaces. Contamination from fingerprints, liquids,
felt-tip pens, and labels can cause the CD to not play properly, or possibly jam in the drive.
^ When cleaning a disc, use a clean soft cloth. Wipe across the disc from the center to the outside.
Do not wipe the disc in a circular motion.
^ A new CD may be rough on the inner and outer edges. The small plastic pieces causing this
roughness can flake off and fall on the recording surface of the disc, causing skipping or other
problems. Remove these pieces by rubbing the inner and outer edges with the side of a pencil or
pen.
^ Various accessories are available to protect CDs and improve the sound quality of CDs. These
accessories increase the thickness or diameter of the discs, and should not be used in CD
changers.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Compact Disc
Player (CD): > SN051000-07 > Oct > 05 > Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
Compact Disc Player (CD): All Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
Adhesive Labels or Protective Disc Covers on CDs or
DVDs:
A Big Taboo
NOTE:
This article applies to all Honda models with a factory- or dealer-installed CD/DVD player or
changer.
We can't emphasize this enough: Never put adhesive labels or protective disc covers on
recordable CDs or DVDs to be used in automotive CD/DVD players or changers. Here's why:
^ Recordable CDs and DVDs are actually thicker than their pre-recorded brethern. Automotive
players and changers use rollers to draw the disc into the
unit. The added thickness of an adhesive label or a protective disc cover can cause the disc to jam
when it's loaded into or ejected from the unit.
^ CD/DVD players or changers are exposed to high temperatures inside the vehicle. High
temperature can cause the label adhesive to soften. This can
cause the label to curl on the edges and even form bubbles. Curled edges can catch on the rollers
and bubbles add thickness to the disc. Either one can cause the disc to jam.
To cut down on customer-caused damage, all '05 and later 0/Ms include this notice:
Do not use CDs with adhesive labels. The label can curl up and cause the CD to jam in the unit.
Anytime a service customer comes in with a loading or ejecting problem for a CD/DVD player or
changer, ask if he or she used any discs with adhesive labels or protective disc covers. If the
answer is yes, contact your DPSM for possible goodwill assistance. If the answer is no, then
replace the audio unit under normal warranty.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Compact Disc
Player (CD): > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes
Compact Disc Player (CD): All Technical Service Bulletins Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer Error Codes
00-015
March 14, 2000
Applies To: All with CD Player/Changer
Audio Unit Error Codes (Replaces 91-007, dated October 6, 1997)
*If the audio unit displays an error code, use the troubleshooting tables in this service bulletin to
troubleshoot the problem. Refer to service bulletin 98-019 for CD Player/Changer exchange
information.*
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Compact Disc
Player (CD): > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8146
CD Changer Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
CD Player Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
Radio Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Compact Disc
Player (CD): > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8147
CD Player/Changer Troubleshooting (Passport only)
Manually Removing a Jammed Magazine (All except Passport)
One-piece door model:
1. Remove the changer from the vehicle.
2. Remove the rear cover plate from the changer, and look for a jammed disc.
3. If a disc is jammed between the player and the magazine, turn the loading gear until the disc
returns to the player mechanism. Do not attempt to reload the disc back into the magazine.
4. After the disc is loaded into the player mechanism, turn the changer so that the front is facing
you.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Compact Disc
Player (CD): > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8148
5. Insert a thin stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1-1/2" from the right
side of the opening.
6. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
7. Slowly remove the ruler and magazine at the same time.
Two-piece door model:
1. Remove the changer from the vehicle.
2. Remove the top cover plate from the changer, and look for a jammed tray.
3. If a tray is stuck in the player, reinstall the cover and replace the changer. If all the trays are in
the magazine, insert a thin stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from
the right side of the opening.
4. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
5. Slowly remove the ruler and magazine at the same time.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Compact Disc
Player (CD): > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8149
Manually Removing a Jammed Magazine (Passport only)
One-piece door model:
1. Open the changer door.
2. Check to see if all the trays are in the magazine.
^ If a tray is stuck in the changer, replace the changer.
^ If all the trays are in the magazine, place the changer in a horizontal position, and insert a thin
stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from the right side of the
opening.
3. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
4. Slowly remove the ruler and magazine at the same time.
Two-piece door model:
1. Remove the changer from the vehicle.
2. Remove the top cover plate from the changer, and inspect for a jammed tray.
^ If a tray is stuck in the changer, replace the changer.
^ If all the trays are in the magazine, place the changer in a horizontal position, and insert a thin
stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from the right side of the
opening.
3. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
4. Slowly remove the ruler and magazine at the same time.
Handling and Inspecting Compact Discs
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Compact Disc
Player (CD): > 00-015 > Mar > 00 > Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes > Page 8150
^ Handle a CD by its edges; never touch the flat surfaces. Contamination from fingerprints, liquids,
felt-tip pens, and labels can cause the CD to not play properly, or possibly jam in the drive.
^ When cleaning a disc, use a clean soft cloth. Wipe across the disc from the center to the outside.
Do not wipe the disc in a circular motion.
^ A new CD may be rough on the inner and outer edges. The small plastic pieces causing this
roughness can flake off and fall on the recording surface of the disc, causing skipping or other
problems. Remove these pieces by rubbing the inner and outer edges with the side of a pencil or
pen.
^ Various accessories are available to protect CDs and improve the sound quality of CDs. These
accessories increase the thickness or diameter of the discs, and should not be used in CD
changers.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Compact Disc Player
(CD): > SN051000-07 > Oct > 05 > Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
Compact Disc Player (CD): All Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
Adhesive Labels or Protective Disc Covers on CDs or
DVDs:
A Big Taboo
NOTE:
This article applies to all Honda models with a factory- or dealer-installed CD/DVD player or
changer.
We can't emphasize this enough: Never put adhesive labels or protective disc covers on
recordable CDs or DVDs to be used in automotive CD/DVD players or changers. Here's why:
^ Recordable CDs and DVDs are actually thicker than their pre-recorded brethern. Automotive
players and changers use rollers to draw the disc into the
unit. The added thickness of an adhesive label or a protective disc cover can cause the disc to jam
when it's loaded into or ejected from the unit.
^ CD/DVD players or changers are exposed to high temperatures inside the vehicle. High
temperature can cause the label adhesive to soften. This can
cause the label to curl on the edges and even form bubbles. Curled edges can catch on the rollers
and bubbles add thickness to the disc. Either one can cause the disc to jam.
To cut down on customer-caused damage, all '05 and later 0/Ms include this notice:
Do not use CDs with adhesive labels. The label can curl up and cause the CD to jam in the unit.
Anytime a service customer comes in with a loading or ejecting problem for a CD/DVD player or
changer, ask if he or she used any discs with adhesive labels or protective disc covers. If the
answer is yes, contact your DPSM for possible goodwill assistance. If the answer is no, then
replace the audio unit under normal warranty.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8156
Compact Disc Player (CD): Service and Repair
NOTE: The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before
- disconnecting the battery.
- removing the radio fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- removing the radio.
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.
Refer to the TSB listed below for information on how to obtain the code in the event the customer
does not have the code.
TSB # 98-026
April 15, 1998
Applies To: ALL with Anti-Theft Audio Units
Audio Unit Anti-Theft Code Labels
BACKGROUND
This service bulletin describes where to attach the audio unit anti-theft labels that come in the glove
box of vehicles equipped with anti-theft audio systems.
If a vehicle has an anti-theft audio system, there are three peel-off labels in the glove box. Two of
the labels have both the anti-theft code and the audio unit's serial number, and a third label
contains only the serial number for the audio unit.
During Pre Delivery Inspection, stick the label with only the serial number on the glove box. If the
radio code ever needs to be retrieved through the HONDANET 2000 system, this will save you the
time and labor of removing the audio unit to record the serial number.
NOTES:
- Also perform this procedure when installing an accessory audio unit that is equipped with an
anti-theft system.
- If a remanufactured audio unit is installed in a vehicle, remove the old labels and install new ones
on the glove box, Radio Identification Card, and the vehicle's service records.
- If the glove box is ever replaced, transfer the labels from the old glove box to the new one.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None. This bulletin is for information only.
Skill level: Maintenance Technician
PROCEDURE
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8157
1. Stick the label containing only the serial number information on the glove box.
2. Stick the remaining two labels on the Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card and on the vehicle's
service records.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Radio/Stereo: Service and Repair
NOTE:The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before
- disconnecting the battery.
- removing the radio fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- removing the radio.
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.
For information on how to obtain the code in the event the customer does not have the code please
refer to the TSB below.
TSB # 98-026
April 15, 1998
Applies To: ALL with Anti-Theft Audio Units
Audio Unit Anti-Theft Code Labels
BACKGROUND
This service bulletin describes where to attach the audio unit anti-theft labels that come in the glove
box of vehicles equipped with anti-theft audio systems.
If a vehicle has an anti-theft audio system, there are three peel-off labels in the glove box. Two of
the labels have both the anti-theft code and the audio unit's serial number, and a third label
contains only the serial number for the audio unit.
During Pre Delivery Inspection, stick the label with only the serial number on the glove box. If the
radio code ever needs to be retrieved through the HONDANET 2000 system, this will save you the
time and labor of removing the audio unit to record the serial number.
NOTES:
- Also perform this procedure when installing an accessory audio unit that is equipped with an
anti-theft system.
- If a remanufactured audio unit is installed in a vehicle, remove the old labels and install new ones
on the glove box, Radio Identification Card, and the vehicle's service records.
- If the glove box is ever replaced, transfer the labels from the old glove box to the new one.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None. This bulletin is for information only.
Skill level: Maintenance Technician
PROCEDURE
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 8161
1. Stick the label containing only the serial number information on the glove box.
2. Stick the remaining two labels on the Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card and on the vehicle's
service records.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Tape Player >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Tape Player: Service and Repair
NOTE:The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before
- disconnecting the battery.
- removing the radio fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- removing the radio.
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.
Refer to the TSB listed below for information on how to obtain the code in the event the customer
does not have the code.
TSB # 98-026
April 15, 1998
Applies To: ALL with Anti-Theft Audio Units
Audio Unit Anti-Theft Code Labels
BACKGROUND
This service bulletin describes where to attach the audio unit anti-theft labels that come in the glove
box of vehicles equipped with anti-theft audio systems.
If a vehicle has an anti-theft audio system, there are three peel-off labels in the glove box. Two of
the labels have both the anti-theft code and the audio unit's serial number, and a third label
contains only the serial number for the audio unit.
During Pre Delivery Inspection, stick the label with only the serial number on the glove box. If the
radio code ever needs to be retrieved through the HONDANET 2000 system, this will save you the
time and labor of removing the audio unit to record the serial number.
NOTES:
- Also perform this procedure when installing an accessory audio unit that is equipped with an
anti-theft system.
- If a remanufactured audio unit is installed in a vehicle, remove the old labels and install new ones
on the glove box, Radio Identification Card, and the vehicle's service records.
- If the glove box is ever replaced, transfer the labels from the old glove box to the new one.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None. This bulletin is for information only.
Skill level: Maintenance Technician
PROCEDURE
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Tape Player >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 8165
1. Stick the label containing only the serial number information on the glove box.
2. Stick the remaining two labels on the Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card and on the vehicle's
service records.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Locations
Body Control Module: Locations
Rear Of Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8173
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8174
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8175
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8176
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8177
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8178
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8179
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8180
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8181
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8182
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8183
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8184
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8185
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8186
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8187
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8188
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8189
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8190
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8191
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8192
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8218
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8219
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8220
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Body Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8221
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Latch > System
Information > Service and Repair
Front Door Latch: Service and Repair
Door Latch Replacement
NOTE: Raise the window fully.
1. Remove:
- Door panel - Plastic cover - Rear channel
2. Pry the door handle latch rod and lock rod out of its joint using a flat tip screwdriver. Disconnect
the connectors from the door. Remove the
mounting screws, then remove the latch assembly through the hole in the door.
NOTE:
- Take care not to bend the rods.
- To ease reassembly, note the location (A) of the rod on the joint before disconnecting it.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Latch > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 8228
3. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 > Interior - Door
Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Front Door Panel: Customer Interest Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Bulletin No. 95-037
Issue Date NOV 6, 1995
Model 1992-95 CIVIC
Applicable To 4-DOOR (Japan Production Only)
File Under BODY
Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn or Bubbled
SYMPTOM
The fabric covering the door panel center pad wears prematurely or pulls away (bubbles up) from
its backing material.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Not enough adhesive between the center pad's fabric and its backing material.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the door panel center pad.
1. Remove the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 > Interior - Door
Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8237
2. If you are working on a front door panel, remove the power window switch.
3. Cover your workbench with a protective cloth, then place the door panel upside down on the
cloth.
4. While wearing eye protection, drill a 5/16-inch hole through the center of each heat-bonded
boss. (The bosses attach the center pad to the door panel.) Front door center pads have 14
bosses; rear door center pads have 17.
5. Pull off and discard the pad. If needed, use a pair of diagonal cutters to remove any material
remaining on the bosses.
6. Fit the new pad into the door panel opening.
7. With the door panel upside down, support the pad with a block of wood placed between the
workbench and the protective cloth. (Do not set the
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 > Interior - Door
Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8238
pad directly on the wood.)
8. Using a 10 mm socket and a hammer, carefully tap the push nuts onto each boss. (Push nuts
are included with the new pad.)
9. Cut off the excess boss material with a pair of diagonal cutters. Leave about 5 mm (0.2 inches)
of material above each push nut.
10. If you are working on the driver's door panel, reinstall the power window switch.
11. Reinstall the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0053 for the center pad part numbers. When ordering, be
sure to use the correct car year, model, center pad color, and door position.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
OPERATION NUMBERDESCRIPTION FLAT RATE TIME
843102 Replace front door 0.8 hour
center pad
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 > Interior - Door
Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8239
845102 Replace rear door 0.9 hour
center pad
Failed part: Front: P/N 83533-SR4-A01ZC H/C 4486197
Failed part: Rear: P/N 83700-SR4-A00ZA H/C 3896917
Defect code: 005
Contention code: A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 >
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Front Door Panel: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Bulletin No. 95-037
Issue Date NOV 6, 1995
Model 1992-95 CIVIC
Applicable To 4-DOOR (Japan Production Only)
File Under BODY
Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn or Bubbled
SYMPTOM
The fabric covering the door panel center pad wears prematurely or pulls away (bubbles up) from
its backing material.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Not enough adhesive between the center pad's fabric and its backing material.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the door panel center pad.
1. Remove the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 >
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8245
2. If you are working on a front door panel, remove the power window switch.
3. Cover your workbench with a protective cloth, then place the door panel upside down on the
cloth.
4. While wearing eye protection, drill a 5/16-inch hole through the center of each heat-bonded
boss. (The bosses attach the center pad to the door panel.) Front door center pads have 14
bosses; rear door center pads have 17.
5. Pull off and discard the pad. If needed, use a pair of diagonal cutters to remove any material
remaining on the bosses.
6. Fit the new pad into the door panel opening.
7. With the door panel upside down, support the pad with a block of wood placed between the
workbench and the protective cloth. (Do not set the
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 >
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8246
pad directly on the wood.)
8. Using a 10 mm socket and a hammer, carefully tap the push nuts onto each boss. (Push nuts
are included with the new pad.)
9. Cut off the excess boss material with a pair of diagonal cutters. Leave about 5 mm (0.2 inches)
of material above each push nut.
10. If you are working on the driver's door panel, reinstall the power window switch.
11. Reinstall the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0053 for the center pad part numbers. When ordering, be
sure to use the correct car year, model, center pad color, and door position.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
OPERATION NUMBERDESCRIPTION FLAT RATE TIME
843102 Replace front door 0.8 hour
center pad
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 >
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8247
845102 Replace rear door 0.9 hour
center pad
Failed part: Front: P/N 83533-SR4-A01ZC H/C 4486197
Failed part: Rear: P/N 83700-SR4-A00ZA H/C 3896917
Defect code: 005
Contention code: A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 8248
Front Door Panel: By Symptom
Technical Service Bulletin # 95037 Date: 951106
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Bulletin No. 95-037
Issue Date NOV 6, 1995
Model 1992-95 CIVIC
Applicable To 4-DOOR (Japan Production Only)
File Under BODY
Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn or Bubbled
SYMPTOM
The fabric covering the door panel center pad wears prematurely or pulls away (bubbles up) from
its backing material.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Not enough adhesive between the center pad's fabric and its backing material.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the door panel center pad.
1. Remove the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 8249
2. If you are working on a front door panel, remove the power window switch.
3. Cover your workbench with a protective cloth, then place the door panel upside down on the
cloth.
4. While wearing eye protection, drill a 5/16-inch hole through the center of each heat-bonded
boss. (The bosses attach the center pad to the door panel.) Front door center pads have 14
bosses; rear door center pads have 17.
5. Pull off and discard the pad. If needed, use a pair of diagonal cutters to remove any material
remaining on the bosses.
6. Fit the new pad into the door panel opening.
7. With the door panel upside down, support the pad with a block of wood placed between the
workbench and the protective cloth. (Do not set the
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 8250
pad directly on the wood.)
8. Using a 10 mm socket and a hammer, carefully tap the push nuts onto each boss. (Push nuts
are included with the new pad.)
9. Cut off the excess boss material with a pair of diagonal cutters. Leave about 5 mm (0.2 inches)
of material above each push nut.
10. If you are working on the driver's door panel, reinstall the power window switch.
11. Reinstall the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0053 for the center pad part numbers. When ordering, be
sure to use the correct car year, model, center pad color, and door position.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
OPERATION NUMBERDESCRIPTION FLAT RATE TIME
843102 Replace front door 0.8 hour
center pad
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 8251
845102 Replace rear door 0.9 hour
center pad
Failed part: Front: P/N 83533-SR4-A01ZC H/C 4486197
Failed part: Rear: P/N 83700-SR4-A00ZA H/C 3896917
Defect code: 005
Contention code: A01
Technical Service Bulletin # 95037 Date: 951106
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Bulletin No. 95-037
Issue Date NOV 6, 1995
Model 1992-95 CIVIC
Applicable To 4-DOOR (Japan Production Only)
File Under BODY
Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn or Bubbled
SYMPTOM
The fabric covering the door panel center pad wears prematurely or pulls away (bubbles up) from
its backing material.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Not enough adhesive between the center pad's fabric and its backing material.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the door panel center pad.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 8252
1. Remove the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
2. If you are working on a front door panel, remove the power window switch.
3. Cover your workbench with a protective cloth, then place the door panel upside down on the
cloth.
4. While wearing eye protection, drill a 5/16-inch hole through the center of each heat-bonded
boss. (The bosses attach the center pad to the door panel.) Front door center pads have 14
bosses; rear door center pads have 17.
5. Pull off and discard the pad. If needed, use a pair of diagonal cutters to remove any material
remaining on the bosses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 8253
6. Fit the new pad into the door panel opening.
7. With the door panel upside down, support the pad with a block of wood placed between the
workbench and the protective cloth. (Do not set the pad directly on the wood.)
8. Using a 10 mm socket and a hammer, carefully tap the push nuts onto each boss. (Push nuts
are included with the new pad.)
9. Cut off the excess boss material with a pair of diagonal cutters. Leave about 5 mm (0.2 inches)
of material above each push nut.
10. If you are working on the driver's door panel, reinstall the power window switch.
11. Reinstall the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0053 for the center pad part numbers. When ordering, be
sure to use the correct car year, model, center pad color, and door position.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Panel: > Page 8254
OPERATION NUMBERDESCRIPTION FLAT RATE TIME
843102 Replace front door 0.8 hour
center pad
845102 Replace rear door 0.9 hour
center pad
Failed part: Front: P/N 83533-SR4-A01ZC H/C 4486197
Failed part: Rear: P/N 83700-SR4-A00ZA H/C 3896917
Defect code: 005
Contention code: A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8255
Front Door Panel: Service and Repair
Door Panel/Plastic Cover Replacemen
If applicable, remove the regulator handle by pulling the clip out with a wire hook.
2. Remove the screw, then pull the inner handle out half-way and disconnect the inner handle rod
and power door lock connector.
Remove the screw, then remove the inner handle trim while pulling the inner handle.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8256
3. Remove the screw, then remove the armrest pocket. If applicable, disconnect the power window
connector (2D).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8257
Doors Door Panel/Plastic Cover Replacement
4. Remove the clips attaching the door panel (see trim pad remover). Remove the door panel by
pulling it upward. If applicable, disconnect the
following:
- Power window connector (40)
- Power door lock connector (2D driver's)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8258
- Tweeter connector (2D EX option)
NOTE: Remove the door panel with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8259
5. Remove the grommets, bracket, door lock unit (4D/2D) and inner handle (3D/2D), then carefully
remove the plastic cover. 6. Install the door panel and plastic cover in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8260
NOTE: Make sure the door harness and connectors are fastened correctly on the door.
Door Panel/Plastic Cover Replacement
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8261
Apply adhesive along the edge where necessary to maintain a continuous seal and prevent water
leaks Before fastening the door panel, make sure the door harness is not pinched.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window Motor
> Component Information > Locations
Front Door Window Motor: Locations
Middle Of Driver's Door (Right Front Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Rear Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 > Interior - Door
Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Rear Door Panel: Customer Interest Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Bulletin No. 95-037
Issue Date NOV 6, 1995
Model 1992-95 CIVIC
Applicable To 4-DOOR (Japan Production Only)
File Under BODY
Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn or Bubbled
SYMPTOM
The fabric covering the door panel center pad wears prematurely or pulls away (bubbles up) from
its backing material.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Not enough adhesive between the center pad's fabric and its backing material.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the door panel center pad.
1. Remove the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Rear Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 > Interior - Door
Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8274
2. If you are working on a front door panel, remove the power window switch.
3. Cover your workbench with a protective cloth, then place the door panel upside down on the
cloth.
4. While wearing eye protection, drill a 5/16-inch hole through the center of each heat-bonded
boss. (The bosses attach the center pad to the door panel.) Front door center pads have 14
bosses; rear door center pads have 17.
5. Pull off and discard the pad. If needed, use a pair of diagonal cutters to remove any material
remaining on the bosses.
6. Fit the new pad into the door panel opening.
7. With the door panel upside down, support the pad with a block of wood placed between the
workbench and the protective cloth. (Do not set the
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Rear Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 > Interior - Door
Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8275
pad directly on the wood.)
8. Using a 10 mm socket and a hammer, carefully tap the push nuts onto each boss. (Push nuts
are included with the new pad.)
9. Cut off the excess boss material with a pair of diagonal cutters. Leave about 5 mm (0.2 inches)
of material above each push nut.
10. If you are working on the driver's door panel, reinstall the power window switch.
11. Reinstall the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0053 for the center pad part numbers. When ordering, be
sure to use the correct car year, model, center pad color, and door position.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
OPERATION NUMBERDESCRIPTION FLAT RATE TIME
843102 Replace front door 0.8 hour
center pad
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Rear Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 > Interior - Door
Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8276
845102 Replace rear door 0.9 hour
center pad
Failed part: Front: P/N 83533-SR4-A01ZC H/C 4486197
Failed part: Rear: P/N 83700-SR4-A00ZA H/C 3896917
Defect code: 005
Contention code: A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 >
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Rear Door Panel: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Bulletin No. 95-037
Issue Date NOV 6, 1995
Model 1992-95 CIVIC
Applicable To 4-DOOR (Japan Production Only)
File Under BODY
Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn or Bubbled
SYMPTOM
The fabric covering the door panel center pad wears prematurely or pulls away (bubbles up) from
its backing material.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Not enough adhesive between the center pad's fabric and its backing material.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the door panel center pad.
1. Remove the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 >
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8282
2. If you are working on a front door panel, remove the power window switch.
3. Cover your workbench with a protective cloth, then place the door panel upside down on the
cloth.
4. While wearing eye protection, drill a 5/16-inch hole through the center of each heat-bonded
boss. (The bosses attach the center pad to the door panel.) Front door center pads have 14
bosses; rear door center pads have 17.
5. Pull off and discard the pad. If needed, use a pair of diagonal cutters to remove any material
remaining on the bosses.
6. Fit the new pad into the door panel opening.
7. With the door panel upside down, support the pad with a block of wood placed between the
workbench and the protective cloth. (Do not set the
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 >
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8283
pad directly on the wood.)
8. Using a 10 mm socket and a hammer, carefully tap the push nuts onto each boss. (Push nuts
are included with the new pad.)
9. Cut off the excess boss material with a pair of diagonal cutters. Leave about 5 mm (0.2 inches)
of material above each push nut.
10. If you are working on the driver's door panel, reinstall the power window switch.
11. Reinstall the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0053 for the center pad part numbers. When ordering, be
sure to use the correct car year, model, center pad color, and door position.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
OPERATION NUMBERDESCRIPTION FLAT RATE TIME
843102 Replace front door 0.8 hour
center pad
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > 95037 > Nov > 95 >
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled > Page 8284
845102 Replace rear door 0.9 hour
center pad
Failed part: Front: P/N 83533-SR4-A01ZC H/C 4486197
Failed part: Rear: P/N 83700-SR4-A00ZA H/C 3896917
Defect code: 005
Contention code: A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > Page 8285
Rear Door Panel: By Symptom
Technical Service Bulletin # 95037 Date: 951106
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Bulletin No. 95-037
Issue Date NOV 6, 1995
Model 1992-95 CIVIC
Applicable To 4-DOOR (Japan Production Only)
File Under BODY
Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn or Bubbled
SYMPTOM
The fabric covering the door panel center pad wears prematurely or pulls away (bubbles up) from
its backing material.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Not enough adhesive between the center pad's fabric and its backing material.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the door panel center pad.
1. Remove the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > Page 8286
2. If you are working on a front door panel, remove the power window switch.
3. Cover your workbench with a protective cloth, then place the door panel upside down on the
cloth.
4. While wearing eye protection, drill a 5/16-inch hole through the center of each heat-bonded
boss. (The bosses attach the center pad to the door panel.) Front door center pads have 14
bosses; rear door center pads have 17.
5. Pull off and discard the pad. If needed, use a pair of diagonal cutters to remove any material
remaining on the bosses.
6. Fit the new pad into the door panel opening.
7. With the door panel upside down, support the pad with a block of wood placed between the
workbench and the protective cloth. (Do not set the
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > Page 8287
pad directly on the wood.)
8. Using a 10 mm socket and a hammer, carefully tap the push nuts onto each boss. (Push nuts
are included with the new pad.)
9. Cut off the excess boss material with a pair of diagonal cutters. Leave about 5 mm (0.2 inches)
of material above each push nut.
10. If you are working on the driver's door panel, reinstall the power window switch.
11. Reinstall the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0053 for the center pad part numbers. When ordering, be
sure to use the correct car year, model, center pad color, and door position.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
OPERATION NUMBERDESCRIPTION FLAT RATE TIME
843102 Replace front door 0.8 hour
center pad
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > Page 8288
845102 Replace rear door 0.9 hour
center pad
Failed part: Front: P/N 83533-SR4-A01ZC H/C 4486197
Failed part: Rear: P/N 83700-SR4-A00ZA H/C 3896917
Defect code: 005
Contention code: A01
Technical Service Bulletin # 95037 Date: 951106
Interior - Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn/Bubbled
Bulletin No. 95-037
Issue Date NOV 6, 1995
Model 1992-95 CIVIC
Applicable To 4-DOOR (Japan Production Only)
File Under BODY
Door Panel Center Pad Is Worn or Bubbled
SYMPTOM
The fabric covering the door panel center pad wears prematurely or pulls away (bubbles up) from
its backing material.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Not enough adhesive between the center pad's fabric and its backing material.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the door panel center pad.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > Page 8289
1. Remove the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
2. If you are working on a front door panel, remove the power window switch.
3. Cover your workbench with a protective cloth, then place the door panel upside down on the
cloth.
4. While wearing eye protection, drill a 5/16-inch hole through the center of each heat-bonded
boss. (The bosses attach the center pad to the door panel.) Front door center pads have 14
bosses; rear door center pads have 17.
5. Pull off and discard the pad. If needed, use a pair of diagonal cutters to remove any material
remaining on the bosses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > Page 8290
6. Fit the new pad into the door panel opening.
7. With the door panel upside down, support the pad with a block of wood placed between the
workbench and the protective cloth. (Do not set the pad directly on the wood.)
8. Using a 10 mm socket and a hammer, carefully tap the push nuts onto each boss. (Push nuts
are included with the new pad.)
9. Cut off the excess boss material with a pair of diagonal cutters. Leave about 5 mm (0.2 inches)
of material above each push nut.
10. If you are working on the driver's door panel, reinstall the power window switch.
11. Reinstall the door panel. (Refer to section 20 of the appropriate Civic Service Manual.)
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0053 for the center pad part numbers. When ordering, be
sure to use the correct car year, model, center pad color, and door position.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Rear Door Panel: > Page 8291
OPERATION NUMBERDESCRIPTION FLAT RATE TIME
843102 Replace front door 0.8 hour
center pad
845102 Replace rear door 0.9 hour
center pad
Failed part: Front: P/N 83533-SR4-A01ZC H/C 4486197
Failed part: Rear: P/N 83700-SR4-A00ZA H/C 3896917
Defect code: 005
Contention code: A01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window Glass >
System Information > Service and Repair
Rear Door Window Glass: Service and Repair
Glass/Regulator Replacement
1. Remove:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Corner sash trim
2. Remove the mounting not and mounting bolt attaching the rear channel. 3. Carefully move the
glass until you can see the glass mounting bolts, then remove them. Carefully pull the glass out
through the window slot.
NOTE: - Take care not to drop the glass inside the door. - Take care not to damage locations (A) of
the glass run channel.
4. Peel the glass run channel Out of the rear channel, then remove the rear channel.
NOTE: After installing the rear channel, make sure the glass run channel is not twisted.
NOTE: To install, the glass run channel, fit it into the reat channel an shown.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window Glass >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8295
5. Remove the two mounting bolts. Loosen the mounting bolt and three motor bolts. Disconnect the
connector (power window model). Remove the
regulator through the center hole in the door.
6. Grease all the sliding surfaces of the regulator where shown. Check that the regulator moves
smoothly by connecting the regulator handle or a 12
V battery to the power window motor.
7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 8. Roll the glass up and down to see if it
moves freely without binding. Also make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and
glass run
channel when the glass is closed. Adjust the position of the glass as necessary.
9. Attach the door harness to the door correctly.
10. When reinstalling the plastic cover, apply adhesive along the edge where necessary to
maintain a contentious seal and prevent water leaks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window Motor >
Component Information > Locations
Rear Door Window Motor: Locations
Front Of Left Rear Door (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window Motor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8299
Rear Door Window Motor: Service and Repair
Glass/Regulator Replacement
1. Remove:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Corner sash trim
2. Remove the mounting not and mounting bolt attaching the rear channel. 3. Carefully move the
glass until you can see the glass mounting bolts, then remove them. Carefully pull the glass out
through the window slot.
NOTE: - Take care not to drop the glass inside the door. - Take care not to damage locations (A) of
the glass run channel.
4. Peel the glass run channel Out of the rear channel, then remove the rear channel.
NOTE: After installing the rear channel, make sure the glass run channel is not twisted.
NOTE: To install, the glass run channel, fit it into the reat channel an shown.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window Motor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8300
5. Remove the two mounting bolts. Loosen the mounting bolt and three motor bolts. Disconnect the
connector (power window model). Remove the
regulator through the center hole in the door.
6. Grease all the sliding surfaces of the regulator where shown. Check that the regulator moves
smoothly by connecting the regulator handle or a 12
V battery to the power window motor.
7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 8. Roll the glass up and down to see if it
moves freely without binding. Also make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and
glass run
channel when the glass is closed. Adjust the position of the glass as necessary.
9. Attach the door harness to the door correctly.
10. When reinstalling the plastic cover, apply adhesive along the edge where necessary to
maintain a contentious seal and prevent water leaks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Service and Repair
Rear Door Window Regulator: Service and Repair
Glass/Regulator Replacement
1. Remove:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Corner sash trim
2. Remove the mounting not and mounting bolt attaching the rear channel. 3. Carefully move the
glass until you can see the glass mounting bolts, then remove them. Carefully pull the glass out
through the window slot.
NOTE: - Take care not to drop the glass inside the door. - Take care not to damage locations (A) of
the glass run channel.
4. Peel the glass run channel Out of the rear channel, then remove the rear channel.
NOTE: After installing the rear channel, make sure the glass run channel is not twisted.
NOTE: To install, the glass run channel, fit it into the reat channel an shown.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8304
5. Remove the two mounting bolts. Loosen the mounting bolt and three motor bolts. Disconnect the
connector (power window model). Remove the
regulator through the center hole in the door.
6. Grease all the sliding surfaces of the regulator where shown. Check that the regulator moves
smoothly by connecting the regulator handle or a 12
V battery to the power window motor.
7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 8. Roll the glass up and down to see if it
moves freely without binding. Also make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and
glass run
channel when the glass is closed. Adjust the position of the glass as necessary.
9. Attach the door harness to the door correctly.
10. When reinstalling the plastic cover, apply adhesive along the edge where necessary to
maintain a contentious seal and prevent water leaks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Door: > 94020 > Jul > 94 > Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open
Fuel Door: Customer Interest Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open
BULLETIN NO. 94-020
ISSUE DATE JULY 24, 1995
MODEL: [NEW] 1994 ACCORD 1992-95 CIVIC (Except del Sol) 1993-94 PRELUDE
APPLICABLE TO See VEHICLES AFFECTED
FILE UNDER BODY
Fuel Fill Door Does Not Open (Supersedes 94-020, dated June 24, 1994)
PROBLEM
The fuel fill door does not open far enough to clear the body.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1994 ACCORD: Sedan
-Thru VIN JHMCD5...RC040100 -Thru VIN 1HGCD5...f1A070396
COUPE -Thru VIN 1HGCD7...RA015O98
Wagon -ALL
1992-95 Civic-ALL [NEW] 1993-94 Prelude-ALL
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Align the fuel fill door, and install a spring boot or shim (see PARTS INFORMATION).
1. Check the gap between the fuel fill door and the opening in the quarter panel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Door: > 94020 > Jul > 94 > Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open > Page 8313
2. If necessary, loosen the hinge bolts for the fuel fill door. Adjust the door and retighten the bolts.
ACCORD
3. Install the boot over the spring tab for the fuel fill door.
4. Test the operation of the fuel fill door.
PRELUDE
3. Before installing the boot, apply a small amount of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (Black), 3M P/N
051135-08011, to the spring tab.
4. Test the operation of the fuel fill door.
CIVIC
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Door: > 94020 > Jul > 94 > Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open > Page 8314
3. Clean the inside of the fuel fill door behind the stiffener with 3M General Purpose Adhesive
Cleaner, 3M P/N 051135-08984.
4. Install the shim between the door stiffener and the door. Place the shim between the legs of the
spring tab.
5. Test the operation of the fuel fill door.
PARTS INFORMATION
Fuel fill door spring boot:
Accord P/N 63910-SV4-999, H/C 4561817
Prelude P/N 63910-SR4-999, H/C 4561809
Fuel fill door shim: Civic
P/N 90550-SR4-999, H/C 4825220 [NEW]
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 849102
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour
Failed part: P/N 74494-SM4-010 H/C 3820594
Defect code: 032
Contention code: B01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Door: > 94020 > Jul > 94 > Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open
Fuel Door: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open
BULLETIN NO. 94-020
ISSUE DATE JULY 24, 1995
MODEL: [NEW] 1994 ACCORD 1992-95 CIVIC (Except del Sol) 1993-94 PRELUDE
APPLICABLE TO See VEHICLES AFFECTED
FILE UNDER BODY
Fuel Fill Door Does Not Open (Supersedes 94-020, dated June 24, 1994)
PROBLEM
The fuel fill door does not open far enough to clear the body.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1994 ACCORD: Sedan
-Thru VIN JHMCD5...RC040100 -Thru VIN 1HGCD5...f1A070396
COUPE -Thru VIN 1HGCD7...RA015O98
Wagon -ALL
1992-95 Civic-ALL [NEW] 1993-94 Prelude-ALL
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Align the fuel fill door, and install a spring boot or shim (see PARTS INFORMATION).
1. Check the gap between the fuel fill door and the opening in the quarter panel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Door: > 94020 > Jul > 94 > Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open >
Page 8320
2. If necessary, loosen the hinge bolts for the fuel fill door. Adjust the door and retighten the bolts.
ACCORD
3. Install the boot over the spring tab for the fuel fill door.
4. Test the operation of the fuel fill door.
PRELUDE
3. Before installing the boot, apply a small amount of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (Black), 3M P/N
051135-08011, to the spring tab.
4. Test the operation of the fuel fill door.
CIVIC
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Door: > 94020 > Jul > 94 > Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open >
Page 8321
3. Clean the inside of the fuel fill door behind the stiffener with 3M General Purpose Adhesive
Cleaner, 3M P/N 051135-08984.
4. Install the shim between the door stiffener and the door. Place the shim between the legs of the
spring tab.
5. Test the operation of the fuel fill door.
PARTS INFORMATION
Fuel fill door spring boot:
Accord P/N 63910-SV4-999, H/C 4561817
Prelude P/N 63910-SR4-999, H/C 4561809
Fuel fill door shim: Civic
P/N 90550-SR4-999, H/C 4825220 [NEW]
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 849102
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour
Failed part: P/N 74494-SM4-010 H/C 3820594
Defect code: 032
Contention code: B01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Hood Latch Release Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Hood Latch Release Cable: Service and Repair
ALIGNMENT:
The hinges can be adjusted right and left as well as fore and aft by using the elongated holes.
- Turn the edge cushions as necessary, to make the hood fit flush with the body at front and side
edges.
Adjust the hood latch to obtain the proper height at the forward edge.
NOTE: Before pulling out the opener cable, tie a string to the cable so you can pull it back in later.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Hood Latch Release Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 8326
- Take care not to bend the opener cable.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
NOTE: Make sure the opener cable is routed and connected properly.
- Adjust the hood alignment.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 93002 > Nov > 94 >
Body - Trunk Hard To Open With Key
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Customer Interest Body - Trunk Hard To Open With Key
Bulletin No. 93-002
Issue Date NOV. 7, 1994
Model [NEW] 1992 - 95 CIVIC
Applicable To See VEHICLES AFFECTED
File Under BODY
Civic Trunk Hard to Open With Key (Supersedes 93-002, dated January 15, 1993)
SYMPTOM
Excessive turning force is required to open the trunk with the key.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The trunk latch has improper clearance.
VEHICLES AFFECTED [NEW]
4-door:
1992 - ALL
1993 - ALL
1994 DX, LX - Thru VIN 1HGEG8...RL023648 1995 DX, LX - Thru VIN JHMEG8...55007277 1995
EX
- Thru VIN JHMEH9...SS003300
2-door:
1993 - ALL
1994 - Thru VIN 2HGEJ...RH518392
1994 DX - Thru VIN 1HGEJ2...RL010397
PARTS INFORMATION [NEW]
Trunk Latch:
P/N 74851-SR4-023, H/C 4585386
Striker Shims:
1.0 mm - P/N 83307-SD2-900, H/C 2321222 2.0 mm - P/N 83307-SD2-000, H/C 2321214
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the trunk latch with the part listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Remove the three mounting screws from the trunk latch.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 93002 > Nov > 94 >
Body - Trunk Hard To Open With Key > Page 8336
2. Disconnect the latch rod, the opener cable, and the connector; then remove the trunk latch.
3. Reconnect the opener cable and the wire connector; then install the new trunk latch. Tighten the
three mounting screws to 10 N-m (1.0 kg-m. 7.2 lb.ft.).
4. Connect the trunk latch rod to the new trunk latch.
5. Use the key to check the operation of the trunk lock.
^ If the trunk now opens easily with the key, the repair is complete.
^ If the trunk is still hard to open, continue to step 6.
6. Adjust the trunk lid edge cushions to get the trunk lid to sit flush with the body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 93002 > Nov > 94 >
Body - Trunk Hard To Open With Key > Page 8337
7. Adjust the striker to align the trunk lid with the opening. Use shims as necessary.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 823109 [NEW]
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour
Failed part: P/N 74851-SR4-003 H/C 3890126
Defect code: 030
Contention code: B99
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 93002 >
Nov > 94 > Body - Trunk Hard To Open With Key
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Trunk Hard To Open With Key
Bulletin No. 93-002
Issue Date NOV. 7, 1994
Model [NEW] 1992 - 95 CIVIC
Applicable To See VEHICLES AFFECTED
File Under BODY
Civic Trunk Hard to Open With Key (Supersedes 93-002, dated January 15, 1993)
SYMPTOM
Excessive turning force is required to open the trunk with the key.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The trunk latch has improper clearance.
VEHICLES AFFECTED [NEW]
4-door:
1992 - ALL
1993 - ALL
1994 DX, LX - Thru VIN 1HGEG8...RL023648 1995 DX, LX - Thru VIN JHMEG8...55007277 1995
EX
- Thru VIN JHMEH9...SS003300
2-door:
1993 - ALL
1994 - Thru VIN 2HGEJ...RH518392
1994 DX - Thru VIN 1HGEJ2...RL010397
PARTS INFORMATION [NEW]
Trunk Latch:
P/N 74851-SR4-023, H/C 4585386
Striker Shims:
1.0 mm - P/N 83307-SD2-900, H/C 2321222 2.0 mm - P/N 83307-SD2-000, H/C 2321214
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the trunk latch with the part listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Remove the three mounting screws from the trunk latch.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 93002 >
Nov > 94 > Body - Trunk Hard To Open With Key > Page 8343
2. Disconnect the latch rod, the opener cable, and the connector; then remove the trunk latch.
3. Reconnect the opener cable and the wire connector; then install the new trunk latch. Tighten the
three mounting screws to 10 N-m (1.0 kg-m. 7.2 lb.ft.).
4. Connect the trunk latch rod to the new trunk latch.
5. Use the key to check the operation of the trunk lock.
^ If the trunk now opens easily with the key, the repair is complete.
^ If the trunk is still hard to open, continue to step 6.
6. Adjust the trunk lid edge cushions to get the trunk lid to sit flush with the body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate Latch: > 93002 >
Nov > 94 > Body - Trunk Hard To Open With Key > Page 8344
7. Adjust the striker to align the trunk lid with the opening. Use shims as necessary.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 823109 [NEW]
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour
Failed part: P/N 74851-SR4-003 H/C 3890126
Defect code: 030
Contention code: B99
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Locations > Trunk Latch Switch
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Locations Trunk Latch Switch
Center Rear Of Trunk
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Locations > Trunk Latch Switch > Page 8347
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Locations Tailgate Latch Switch
Left Side Of Tailgate (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Locations > Trunk Latch Switch > Page 8348
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Locations Hatch Latch Switch
Center Of Tailgate
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Body - Chrome/Stainless Trim Staining Information
Exterior Moulding / Trim: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Chrome/Stainless Trim Staining
Information
Getting Rid of Stains on Chrome or Stainless Steel
Unsightly stains on chrome or stainless steel trim around the door glass no longer means trim
replacement. A good-quality chrome or aluminum polish, some careful masking to protect rubber
molding and painted surfaces, and a little bit of elbow grease, can work wonders to get back that
showroom shine. A couple of good brands to try are Mothers PowerMetal(TM), or Meguiars All
Metal Polish or NXT Generation(TM) All Metal Polish.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Dash Sensor Mounting Bolts ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 16 Driver Side Air Bag Assembly To Steering Wheel Bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 7.2
Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting Nuts & Bolts ..................................................................................
............................................................................. 7.2 SRS Unit Mounting Bolts .................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 7.2 Steering Wheel To Column Steering Shaft Nut ..........................................................................
....................................................................................... 36
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8358
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
SRS connectors automatically short when disconnected.
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8359
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair
The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) must be disarmed prior to disconnecting any electrical
connectors or servicing any system components or items located near SRS electrical connectors.
SRS electrical wiring can be identified by its yellow outer protective coating. To disarm the SRS,
proceed as follows:
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
Fig. 1 Driver Air Bag Disarming
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
will allow air bag system back-up circuit capacitor to discharge.
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1 5. Remove glove compartment and access panel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8360
Fig. 4 Passenger Air Bag Disarming
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 4.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8361
Fig. 12 Fuse Panel/SRS Connector
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 12, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, A SYSTEM MALFUNCTION IS
INDICATED. Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag
Systems/Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Drink Holders > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Drink Holders: > 92048 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Cup Holder Difficult to
Open/Opens by Itself
Drink Holders: Customer Interest Interior - Cup Holder Difficult to Open/Opens by Itself
BULLETIN NO. 92-048
ISSUE DATE APR 24, 1995
MODEL 1992-95 CIVIC [NEW]
APPLICABLE TO ALL
FILE UNDER BODY
Cup Holder Difficult to Open or Opens by Itself (Supersedes 92-048, Cup Holder Opens by Itself,
dated April 16, 1993)
SYMPTOM
The cup holder is difficult to open or it opens by itself when the car is driven over rough roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Liquid has spilled inside the cup holder, or the latch engages improperly.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
inspect and clean the inside of the cup holder, check the latch operation, and adjust the latch.
Install a new latch (see PARTS INFORMATION), if needed.
1. Remove the center console.
2. Remove the cup holder from the center console (four screws).
3. Open the cup holder, and check for stickiness on the inside. If necessary, thoroughly clean the
inside of the cup holder and its components with soap and water.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Drink Holders > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Drink Holders: > 92048 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Cup Holder Difficult to
Open/Opens by Itself > Page 8370
4. Check the operation of the latch by depressing and releasing it several times with your finger. If
the latch sticks, replace it with a new one (see PARTS INFORMATION).
5. Turn the cup holder upside down, and remove the latch (one screw).
6. Scribe a mark on the latch mounting boss, 3 mm from the base of the boss.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Drink Holders > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Drink Holders: > 92048 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Cup Holder Difficult to
Open/Opens by Itself > Page 8371
7. Using a small flat file, file down the mounting boss at an angle to the scribe mark.
8. Reinstall the latch, and apply thread lock to the mounting screw. Tighten the screw until the latch
ear is flush with the mounting boss.
9. Open and close the cup holder to check for proper operation.
10. Reinstall the cup holder on the center console, then reinstall the center console in the car.
PARTS INFORMATION
Latch assembly: [NEW] P/N 8341 8-SR3-000, H/C 4447058
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
IN WARRANTY: The normal warranty applies.
OUT OF WARRANTY: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 044320 [NEW]
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Drink Holders > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Drink Holders: > 92048 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Cup Holder Difficult to
Open/Opens by Itself > Page 8372
Flat rate time: 0.5 hour [NEW]
Failed part: P/N 83416-SR3-003ZC [NEW] H/C 3896214 [NEW]
Defect code: 031
Contention code: B99
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Drink Holders > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drink Holders: > 92048 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Cup Holder
Difficult to Open/Opens by Itself
Drink Holders: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Cup Holder Difficult to Open/Opens by Itself
BULLETIN NO. 92-048
ISSUE DATE APR 24, 1995
MODEL 1992-95 CIVIC [NEW]
APPLICABLE TO ALL
FILE UNDER BODY
Cup Holder Difficult to Open or Opens by Itself (Supersedes 92-048, Cup Holder Opens by Itself,
dated April 16, 1993)
SYMPTOM
The cup holder is difficult to open or it opens by itself when the car is driven over rough roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Liquid has spilled inside the cup holder, or the latch engages improperly.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
inspect and clean the inside of the cup holder, check the latch operation, and adjust the latch.
Install a new latch (see PARTS INFORMATION), if needed.
1. Remove the center console.
2. Remove the cup holder from the center console (four screws).
3. Open the cup holder, and check for stickiness on the inside. If necessary, thoroughly clean the
inside of the cup holder and its components with soap and water.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Drink Holders > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drink Holders: > 92048 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Cup Holder
Difficult to Open/Opens by Itself > Page 8378
4. Check the operation of the latch by depressing and releasing it several times with your finger. If
the latch sticks, replace it with a new one (see PARTS INFORMATION).
5. Turn the cup holder upside down, and remove the latch (one screw).
6. Scribe a mark on the latch mounting boss, 3 mm from the base of the boss.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Drink Holders > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drink Holders: > 92048 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Cup Holder
Difficult to Open/Opens by Itself > Page 8379
7. Using a small flat file, file down the mounting boss at an angle to the scribe mark.
8. Reinstall the latch, and apply thread lock to the mounting screw. Tighten the screw until the latch
ear is flush with the mounting boss.
9. Open and close the cup holder to check for proper operation.
10. Reinstall the cup holder on the center console, then reinstall the center console in the car.
PARTS INFORMATION
Latch assembly: [NEW] P/N 8341 8-SR3-000, H/C 4447058
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
IN WARRANTY: The normal warranty applies.
OUT OF WARRANTY: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 044320 [NEW]
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Drink Holders > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drink Holders: > 92048 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Cup Holder
Difficult to Open/Opens by Itself > Page 8380
Flat rate time: 0.5 hour [NEW]
Failed part: P/N 83416-SR3-003ZC [NEW] H/C 3896214 [NEW]
Defect code: 031
Contention code: B99
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Headliner: Service and Repair
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 8384
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Key > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Key: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information
Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220
Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information
98-011
February 20, 2004
Applies To: ALL
Keyless Remote Transmitter Information (Supersedes 98-011, dated February 6, 2003)
Updated information is shown by asterisks and a black bar.
This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering,
and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8395
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8396
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8397
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8398
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8399
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8400
Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide
90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL
1990-93 Accord (2-door and 4-door) with dealer-installed security system
1992-93 Civic with dealer-installed security system
1993 del Sol with dealer-installed security system
1992-93 Prelude with dealer-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTE:
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8401
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip in place.
4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter.
5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
8. Press the reset button next to the ROM chip.
9. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit.
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from
American Honda.
If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
Batteries for the Transmitter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8402
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
94-95 Accord, Civic, Del SOL, Prelude & 95 Odyssey
1994-95 Accord with dealer-installed security system
1994-95 Civic with dealer-installed security system
1994-95 del Sol with dealer-installed security system
1994-95 Prelude with dealer-installed security system
1995 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the
transmitter's code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash
after each transmitter code is accepted.
5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
96-98 Civic EX & Except EX, Civic
1996-98 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
1996-98 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system
1996-98 Civic with dealer-installed security system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8403
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to four transmitters.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE
buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or
programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the
programming mode.
3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power
door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters.
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit
programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
99-04 Civic, 03-04 Accord, Element, Pilot
1999-00 Civic Value Package with factory-installed keyless entry system
1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8404
2003-04 Accord DX with dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Element with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Pilot EX models with factory-installed security system*
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
91-93 Accord 5-D00R EX
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8405
1991-93 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry or dealer-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
The transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The
transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery is not replaceable.
91-93 Accord 5-Door LX
1991-93 Accord 5-door LX with dealer-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send
a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts
Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address:
Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90501-5745
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8406
On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500)
552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
94-97 Accord 5-Door EX, 95-98 Odyssey EX
1994-97 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
1995-98 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTE:
^ The system accepts up to two transmitters.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
1. Open the driver's door.
2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the
switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times
total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will
exit the programming mode.)
4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode.
5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the
driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code.
6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter.
7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
96-04 Accord, CRV, DelSOL, Ody., Prelude, S2000, Insight, Pilot
1996-02 Accord with dealer-installed security system
1998-02 Accord DX & LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8407
1997-01 CR-V with dealer-installed security system
1996-97 del Sol with dealer-installed security system
1996-98 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system
*1999-04 Odyssey LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system*
1996-01 Prelude with dealer-installed security system
*2000-04 S2000 with dealer-installed security system
2000-04 Insight with dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Pilot LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system*
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8408
1997 Accord SE With Factory-Installed Security System
1997 Accord SE with factory-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
98-02 Accord EX & 00-02 Accord SE
1998-02 Accord EX with factory-installed security system
2000 and 2002 Accord SE with factory-installed security system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8409
(Not interchangeable with CR-V and S2000 remote transmitter)
Transmitter Identification
The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not
interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not
open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release
button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1
seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second.
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
03-04 Accord LX and EX
2003-04 Accord LX and EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8410
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR1616. Each transmitter uses one battery.
97-04 CR-V & 00-04 S2000
*1997-04 CR-V LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system
1998-04 CR-V EX with factory-installed keyless entry system
2000-01 CR-V SE with factory-installed keyless entry system
2000-04 S2000 with factory-installed keyless entry system
2002-04 CR-V with dealer-installed security system*
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8411
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
99-04 Odyssey EX
1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*2001-04 Odyssey EX models with factory- installed security system*
*Transmitter Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8412
The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart,
look at the FCC ID on the back.
1999-00 - FCC ID: E4EG8DN
2001-04 - FCC ID: OUCG8D-440H-A*
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting
the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
99-01 Prelude With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System
1999-01 Prelude with factory-installed keyless entry system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8413
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
88-91 Prelude With Dealer-Installed Security System
1988-91 Prelude with dealer-installed security system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8414
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering a Transmitter
This transmitter is no longer available.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
97-99 EV Plus With Factory-Installed Security System
1997-99 EV Plus with factory-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only through Tech Line.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
00-04 Insight With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System
2000-04 Insight with factory-installed keyless entry system
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8415
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
94-95 Passport (Except 1995-1/2)
1994-95 Passport (except 19951A) with dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be
accepted.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8416
Programming the Transmitter
1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren
then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals.
5. Release the programming button.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you
wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait
more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the
system exits the programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK.
9. Test all the transmitters.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8417
96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System
1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a
third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
Programming the Transmitter
1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor
underneath the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control
unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK, then to ON.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8418
6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the
instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5
seconds of each other.)
7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work
repeat steps 2 thru 7.
9. If you have another transmitter to program, repeat steps 2 thru 7.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
98-02 Passport With Factory-Installed Security System
1998-02 Passport with factory-installed security system
Programming the Transmitter
To program the transmitters, use one of these two procedures:
^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the
previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all
transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed.
^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned
codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters.
Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter)
1. Open the driver's door.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.)
3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and
open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle
once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Procedure Two (adds transmitters)
1. Open the driver's door.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8419
system will not enter the programming mode.)
3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close
and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Turning the Audible Chirp On/Off (1998-99 only)
NOTE:
On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the
transmitter a second time.
1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock.
2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more
times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.)
3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.
4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position,
three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm
that the chirp has been turned on/off.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8420
Technical Service Bulletin # 96-046 Date: 961021
Keyless Entry - Transmitter Programming Information
Bulletin No. 96-046
Issue Date OCT 21, 1996
Model ALL
Applicable To Refer to the list below
File Under ACCESSORIES
Keyless Remote Transmitter Information
This Service Bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering*,
and transmitter batteries. A transmitter quick reference guide is included.
Use this index to find the information for the vehicle you are working on.
Vehicle: Procedure Number:
Civic
1992-93 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 8
del Sol
1993 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 7
Accord
1990-93 (except Wagon) 2
1991-93 EX Wagon 3
1991-93 LX Wagon 4
1994-95 (with optional security system) 5
1994-97 EX Wagon 6
1996-97 (with optional security system) 7
Prelude
1988-91 1
1992-93 (with optional security system) 2
1994-95 (with optional security system) 5
1996-97 (with optional security system) 7
Odyssey
1995 (with optional security system) 5
1995-97 EX 6
1996-97 (with optional security system) 7
Passport
1994-95 (with optional security system,
not applicable to 1995.5 model) 9
1996-97 (with optional security system) 10
*Transmitter prices are subject to change without notice.
PARTS INFORMATION
Transmitter ordering information and battery part numbers are in each transmitter section.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8421
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None. This Service Bulletin is for information only.
TRANSMITTER QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE
Procedure 1
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8422
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Alpine of America by authorized Honda Dealers only.
Send a completed order form (found in Parts Information Bulletin A91 -0031) along with a dealer
check for $59.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this address:
Honda/Alpine V.S.S. P.O. Box 2859 Torrance, CA 90509
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
Procedure 2
Programming the Transmitter
NOTE:
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8423
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip into place.
4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter.
5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
8. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit.
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter, and install it in the new one.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
8319. For each set ordered, send a dealer check for $24.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this
address:
Alpine Electronics of America 19145 Gramercy Place Torrance, CA 90501 Attention: Al Sula
(Parts)
Alpine's ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Additional transmitters can be ordered
from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures.
If you have questions on how to order the four ROM chip set, call Alpine's Parts Department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8424
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 3
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the HONDANET 2000
system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery is not replaceable.
Procedure 4
Programming the Transmitter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8425
This transmitter is not programmable.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA by authorized Honda Dealers only. Send
a completed order form,* (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer
Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.), to this
address:
Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90801-5745
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at
(800)852-4690, or Fax them at (310) 898-1029 (weekdays, from 8:30 A.M. thru 4:00 PM., PST).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your Dealership C.O.D. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
*On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
Procedure 5
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during the procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
wheel cover flashes when the system is in the programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. The parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's
code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. The parking lights flash after each
transmitter code is accepted.
5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8426
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 6
Programming the Transmitter
NOTE:
Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
1. Open the driver's door.
2. Press and hold the driver's door master power door lock switch up in the unlock position.
(Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key in the ignition switch and remove it. Repeat this four more times within 10
seconds, then leave the key in the switch. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the
system is in the programming mode. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
system will exit the programming mode.)
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that all power door locks
(except the driver's) cycle to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the system.
5. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter. (You can program two transmitters per vehicle.)
6. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries.
Procedure 7
Programming the Transmitter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8427
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on one of the transmitters. (A non-programmed
transmitter can be used for this step.)
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF (0).
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times with the transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
6. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter. Check that the power door
locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode.
7. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on each transmitter. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle) Check that the power door locks cycle after you push each transmitter
button, confirming that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 8
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8428
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM button and the
CD/TAPE button) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during the
procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm
that you're in the programming mode.
3. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle
to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on all other transmitters. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle.)
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the
programming mode.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 9
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
Programming the Transmitter
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8429
1. Locate the security system control unit mounted under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
3. Turn the ignition switch on, then turn it off.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst to confirm that you're in the programming mode. The siren then emits
prompting chirps at three-second intervals.
5. Release the programming button.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to let you know that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If
you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter or
between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps, and the system exits the
programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch on, then turn it off.
9. Push all the function buttons on each transmitter to make sure they work correctly.
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 10
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8430
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times,
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward, and locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor,
underneath the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch on.
3. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit with a pen or pencil.
When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Check that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front marker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by
the control unit.
5. If you have other transmitters to program, repeat steps 3 and 4.
6. Turn the ignition switch off to exit the programming mode.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 8431
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. One battery per transmitter is needed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Locations > Driver's Power Door Lock Actuator
Power Door Lock Actuator: Locations Driver's Power Door Lock Actuator
Rear Of Driver's Door
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Locations > Driver's Power Door Lock Actuator > Page 8437
Power Door Lock Actuator: Locations Rear Door Lock Actuator
Rear Of Left Rear Door (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Locations > Driver's Power Door Lock Actuator > Page 8438
Power Door Lock Actuator: Locations Right Front Door Lock Actuator
Rear Of Right Front Door
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Control Module > Component
Information > Locations
Power Door Lock Control Module: Locations
Front Of Driver's Door
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Mirrors: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8446
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8447
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8448
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8449
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8450
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8451
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8452
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8453
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8454
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8455
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8456
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8457
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8458
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8459
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8460
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8461
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8462
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8463
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8464
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8465
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8466
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8467
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8468
Mirrors: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8469
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8470
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8471
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8472
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8473
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8474
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8475
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8476
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8477
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8478
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8479
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8480
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8481
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8482
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8483
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8484
Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Instructions > Page 8485
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8486
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8487
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8488
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8489
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8490
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8491
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8492
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8493
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8494
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 8495
Power Mirrors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8496
Mirrors: Description and Operation
The two outside mirrors are controlled by the power mirror switch. Each mirror has two reversible
motors: one motor moves the mirror up and down and the other motor moves the mirror left and
right.
The power mirror switch contains three switches to control mirror direction, and two switches to
select the left or right mirror. With the ignition in ON (II), battery voltage is supplied to the power
mirror switch. The mirror selector switch directs voltage from two of the direction switches to either
the left or the right mirror. Each direction switch is used for more than one function.
Mirror Up Operation
With the power mirror switch in the up position, switch 1 is moved to the A position. Switch 1
applies battery voltage to both the left and right power mirror up/down motors. If the mirror selector
switch is in the left position, the left up/down motor is grounded through the mirror selector switch
and switch 2 in the B position to G551 (Sedan) or G552 (Coupe, Hatchback). If the right mirror
up/down motor is selected it is also grounded through switch 2 in the B position.
Mirror Down Operation
With the power mirror switch in the down position, switches 2 and 3 are moved to the A position.
Switch 2 applies battery voltage to the left or right power mirror up/down motor as determined by
the mirror selector switch. The selected mirror motor is grounded through switch 1 in the B position
to G551 (Sedan) or G552 (Coupe, Hatchback). When switch 2 is moved to position A, it also
applies battery voltage to the selected mirror left/right motor. With switch 3 in the A position, battery
voltage is supplied to both sides of the left/right motor so it does not move.
Mirror Left Operation
With the power mirror switch in the left position, switches 1 and 2 are moved to the A position.
Switch 2 applies battery voltage to the left or right power mirror left/right motor as determined by
the mirror selector switch. The selected mirror motor is grounded through switch 3 in the B position
to G551 (Sedan) or G552 (Coupe, Hatchback). When switch 2 is moved to position A, it also
applies battery voltage to the selected mirror up/down motor. With switch 1 in the A position,
battery voltage is supplied to both sides of the up/down motor so it does not move.
Mirror Right Operation
With the power mirror switch in the right position, switch 3 is moved to the A position. Switch 3
applies battery voltage through the mirror selector switch to the left or right left/right motor. The
motor is grounded through the mirror selector switch and switch 2 in the B position to G551
(Sedan) or G552 (Coupe, Hatchback).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage
Paint: Technical Service Bulletins Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage
99-062
January 15, 2007
Applies To: ALL
Paint Damage From Environmental Fallout
(Supersedes 99-062, dated October 12, 1999 to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
SYMPTOM
The exterior paint surface does not feel smooth after the vehicle is washed.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Environmental fallout (airborne metallic particles, tree sap, paint overspray, road tar, insect residue,
etc.) has adhered to the exterior paint surface.
NOTE:
This form of paint damage should not be confused with acid rain damage. Unlike environmental
fallout damage, acid rain damage appears on the paint surface as pits or water spots-possibly
black or brown in the center-which may feel smooth to the touch.
PREVENTION
The shipping wax/wrap guard applied to the vehicle at the factory provides the best protection for
the paint finish from environmental fallout and acid rain damage. American Honda strongly
recommends that you leave the shipping wax/wrap guard on the vehicle for as long as possible.
Your dealership is responsible for maintaining the vehicle's finish after the shipping wax/ wrap
guard is removed.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Select a product line from one of the manufacturers listed in REQUIRED MATERIALS to clean the
paint surface and to wax it after cleaning. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for
each of the products you use.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Each of the clays listed should do at least three vehicles.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage > Page 8502
In warranty: American Honda will reimburse for this repair only under these conditions:
^ It is done during PDI
^ No more than 30 days have elapsed since the vehicle was received at the dealership (according
to the date noted on the motor carrier's bill of lading)
Operation number: 812355
Flat rate time: 1.0 hour
Failed P/N: PDI-PAINT, H/C 3173994
*Defect code: 08103
Symptom code 08811*
Skill level: Repair Technician
*NOTE:
When submitting the claim, make sure you enter the vehicle's date of receipt in the customer
contention comment section. The claim will be rejected without this information.*
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Wash and dry the vehicle out of direct sunlight.
2. Tear off a piece of clay. Shape the piece with your hands into a flat disk about 3 inches in
diameter.
3. Spray a 2-to 3-square-foot area of the affected panel with the manufacturer's lubricant.
4. Clean a 1-square-foot section of the sprayed area by rubbing it with the clay.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage > Page 8503
5. Check your work by running your fingers over the cleaned and lubricated surface to feel for any
remaining contamination.
^ If you feel any particles on the cleaned surface fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk
shape, clean the section again, and recheck your work.
^ If the cleaned surface feels smooth, fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk shape, and go
to step 6.
NOTE:
You must carefully fold and knead the clay to keep a clean side next to the paint surface. Never
use clay that has fallen on the ground. Any small pieces of dirt or sand that imbed in the clay will
scratch the paint surface. If the clay falls on the ground, discard it and get a fresh piece.
6. Clean the remaining sections of the sprayed area (repeat steps 4 and 5).
7. Wipe the lubricant from all the cleaned sections with a clean terry cloth towel.
8. Clean the rest of the affected panel and any additional panels that need cleaning (repeat steps 3
thru 7).
9. Apply the manufacturer's recommended wax or glaze to all the cleaned panels.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage > Page 8504
Technical Service Bulletin # 97-028 Date: 970331
Body - Minor Paint Finish Repair
97-028
Applies To: ALL Models
March 31, 1997
Minor Paint Finish Repair
The first thing a new vehicle owner sees when he or she takes delivery of a new vehicle is the paint
finish. Therefore, making the vehicle look good is very important. However, customer feedback has
pointed out that many new vehicles are delivered with scratches and swirl marks. This is especially
true with dark colored vehicles.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the paint finish using the tools, supplies, and procedures
recommended for the type of damage (scratches, swirl marks, etc.) and for the color of the paint
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None: Information only.
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES To repair the paint finish, you should use these tools
and supplies:
Tools and Safety Equipment Mil gauge (film thickness gauge) *
Pro Gauge II, or equivalent
* ETG (Electronic Thickness Gauge), or equivalent These mil gauges are commercially available.
They can be purchased from Pro Motorcar Products at 800-334-2843.
- Variable speed electric polisher
- Dual action orbital polisher (electric or pneumatic)
- Eye protection (face shield or safety goggles)
Supplies 9" Foam polishing pads (do not use wool type)
- Clean, 100% cotton terry cloth towels or soft flannel cloth
- Wet/dry sandpaper (1500 - 2000 grit)
- Soft sanding pad
- 50/50 Solution of isopropyl alcohol and water
While we cannot recommend one manufacturer over another, any of the manufacturers listed here
can provide you with quality products through their nationwide distributor network. Contact them for
your paint repair supply needs, choose one, and then use the system of only that one
manufacturer. If you need to know how to use the products, ask the manufacturer for training.
3M Automotive Trades Division 22100 Telegraph Road P.O. Box 358 Southfield, MI 48037-0358
Phone Number: 800-521-8180 Ext. 6890
Meguiar's 17991 Mitchell South Irvine, CA 92714 Phone Number: 800-347-5700
MOC Products 12306 Montague Street Pacoima, CA 91331 Phone Number: 818-896-2258
Repair Procedure
The following procedures may not apply to all conditions or colors. Use the procedure that best
suits the condition and color of the vehicle you're
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage > Page 8505
repairing.
Repairing and Polishing the Painted Surface
The goal of a minor paint repair is to correct the damage to the upper layer of the painted surface.
This is done by removing a thin layer of paint (no more than 0.5 mil) and then restoring the luster
by polishing the repaired surface. A quick way to determine the depth of a scratch in the paint is to
run your fingernail across the scratch. If your fingernail catches on the scratch, the area will need to
be wet sanded and polished.
When doing scratch or swirl mark repairs, use only quality products from one manufacturer. Each
manufacturer has its own set of paint repair products that have matching materials. Mixing
materials from different manufacturers, or using inexpensive products, compromises the repair
quality.
An electric polisher with an adjustable rpm control set between 1,500 and 1,800 rpm is best for
polishing. When using a polisher, faster is not better. Too much polisher speed and too much
applied force can cause swirl marks or may even burn the paint.
Removing Swirl Marks
Most swirl marks can be removed by using a foam polishing pad and polishing material. Use the
polisher at 1,500 to 1,800 rpm with a small amount of polishing material on the pad. Always begin
with the finest polishing material. If necessary, progress to the next coarser material only when the
fine materials are ineffective.
When polishing, work in small sections (approximately 24" x 24"). Avoid running the polishing pad
over edges of a body panel or body lines where the paint is more susceptible to burning through.
Let the cleaner do the work. Do not apply too much force! Forcing the polishing pad could cause
deep cuts into the paint and might damage the surface so badly that it would need to be repainted.
Polishing Dark Colors
This additional procedure, after the polishing process described above, is important to reduce any
chance of swirl marks, which show more on dark colors. When polishing is completed, use the
same type of foam polishing pad on a random orbital polisher. Apply the finest polishing material to
a 24" x 24" work area. Start the polisher, and make three to four passes over the work area.
Remove the glaze residue with a cotton terry cloth or soft flannel cloth.
Wet Sanding
This process is used to repair scratches and acid rain damage deeper than 0.2 mil. The object is to
remove as little paint material as possible. When wet sanding, stop frequently and dry the work
area. This will allow you to see if the wet sanding has removed the damage.
Start by soaking a 1500 or 2000 grit wet/dry sanding paper in water for 15 minutes. Wrap the
soaked wet/dry sanding paper around a soft sanding pad. Lightly sand in one direction across (90
degrees) the scratched surface to highlight the surface damage. Flush the area with clean water.
To remove any sanding scratches left by the wet sanding process, use a foam polishing pad and a
polishing material. Refer to Removing Swirl Marks.
Final Inspection
When the polishing process is done, the paint surface may look perfect, but residue can hide very
fine scratches that will become apparent after a few washings. This is especially true for darker
colors.
Start the final inspection by spraying a 50/50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water on the work
area and then wiping it dry.
NOTE: Avoid spraying the solution on any unpainted plastic parts such as taillights, turn signal
lenses, reflectors, etc. The solution can cause cracking.
Inspect the repaired area, and repeat the polishing process if necessary. Finish the inspection by
waxing the completed vehicle with a high quality wax. Use the wax recommended by the paint
repair supplies manufacturer you have chosen.
Preventive Maintenance
Avoiding scratches and dents while the vehicle is in your dealership inventory requires some
preventive maintenance. To help reduce the occurrence of scratches and dents, follow these
recommendations: Park vehicles far enough apart to prevent door dents and dings.
- Leave the exterior shipping protection on the vehicle until it is ready to be sold.
- Implement and use an inventory age control system.
- Use deionized water to reduce water spotting.
- Wash the vehicles with deionized water, soap, and a wash mitt at least once a week.
NOTE: Using a wash mitt will remove any residual dirt from the paint surface. If a wash mitt is not
used, the residual dirt on the painted surface will scratch the paint when the surface is dried with a
chamois or towel.
- Use a clean chamois or terry cloth towel to dry the vehicles.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage > Page 8506
Paint: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Vehicle Paint Codes
Model 1995
Applicable To ALL
File Under BODY
Bulletin No. 94-035
Issue Date JAN 30, 1995
1995 Honda Paint Codes
(Supersedes 94-O35, dated Oct. 24, 1994)
Paint formulations are determined by each paint company. For questions about formulas or
matching, contact your local paint distributor or the paint company's nearest regional office. The
information provided is for reference only. American Honda does not endorse any paint company
or type of paint.
The original paint is acrylic enamel. Paint codes with "M" are metallic colors; those with "P" are
pearlescent colors.
NOTE:
Herberts Standox uses the Honda Paint Code as its paint intermix code.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage > Page 8507
Japan - Produced Cars
Canada - Produced Civics. paint code ends in -4
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage > Page 8508
U.S.- Produced (Marysville) Accords, paint code ends in -3
U.S.- Produced (East Liberty) Civics, paint code ends in -5 (East Liberty uses waterborne paints)
NOTES:
The numbers following the paint description represent the paint process used during manufacture
of the vehicle:
1 A clear coat is applied over the color coat
2 A small amount of color is mixed with a clear coat and applied over the color coat.
3 A clear coat was not applied at the factory.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Control Module
> Component Information > Locations
Power Door Lock Control Module: Locations
Front Of Driver's Door
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof/Moonroof Relay <-->
[Sunroof / Moonroof Relay] > Component Information > Locations > Moonroof Close Relay
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Locations Moonroof Close Relay
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof/Moonroof Relay <-->
[Sunroof / Moonroof Relay] > Component Information > Locations > Moonroof Close Relay > Page 8517
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Locations Moonroof Open Relay
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sun Shade >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Sun Shade: > 95021 > Apr > 95 > Interior Sunshade Rattle
Sun Shade: Customer Interest Interior - Sunshade Rattle
Bulletin No. 95-021
Issue Date APRIL 10, 1995
Model 1993-95 CIVIC
Applicable To See VEHICLES AFFECTED
File Under BODY
Sunshade Rattle
SYMPTOM
The sunshade rattles when driving on rough roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The sunshade rail is hitting against the moonroof drain panel.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1993-94:
Coupe EX - All 3-door Si - All
1995:
Coupe EX - Thru VIN 1HGEJ1...SL003852
Thru VIN 2HGEJ1...SH512447
3-door Si - Thru VIN 2HGEH3...SH508207
REQUIRED MATERIALS
EPT Sealer 5T: P/N 06991-SA5-000, H/C 2086650
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 814001
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour
Failed part: P/N 83210-SR3-AO1ZA H/C 3963147
Defect code: 043
Contention code: B07
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sun Shade >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Sun Shade: > 95021 > Apr > 95 > Interior Sunshade Rattle > Page 8528
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Separate the sunshade rail from the moon roof drain panel with EPT Sealer ST (see REQUIRED
MATERIALS).
1. Tilt up the back of the moonroof. Do not slide it back.
2. Slide the sunshade all the way back.
3. Cut two 40 x 15 mm pieces of EPT Sealer 5T. Fold them in half lengthwise, sticky side together.
4. Pull up on the moon roof drain panel and insert a piece of EPT between it and the sunshade rail.
5. While still pulling up on the drain panel, use a small screwdriver to push the EPT completely
under the drain panel. Make sure the EPT is on the rail and not overlapping onto the sunshade.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 on the other side.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sun Shade >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Sun Shade: > 95021 > Apr > 95 >
Interior - Sunshade Rattle
Sun Shade: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Sunshade Rattle
Bulletin No. 95-021
Issue Date APRIL 10, 1995
Model 1993-95 CIVIC
Applicable To See VEHICLES AFFECTED
File Under BODY
Sunshade Rattle
SYMPTOM
The sunshade rattles when driving on rough roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The sunshade rail is hitting against the moonroof drain panel.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1993-94:
Coupe EX - All 3-door Si - All
1995:
Coupe EX - Thru VIN 1HGEJ1...SL003852
Thru VIN 2HGEJ1...SH512447
3-door Si - Thru VIN 2HGEH3...SH508207
REQUIRED MATERIALS
EPT Sealer 5T: P/N 06991-SA5-000, H/C 2086650
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 814001
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour
Failed part: P/N 83210-SR3-AO1ZA H/C 3963147
Defect code: 043
Contention code: B07
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sun Shade >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Sun Shade: > 95021 > Apr > 95 >
Interior - Sunshade Rattle > Page 8534
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Separate the sunshade rail from the moon roof drain panel with EPT Sealer ST (see REQUIRED
MATERIALS).
1. Tilt up the back of the moonroof. Do not slide it back.
2. Slide the sunshade all the way back.
3. Cut two 40 x 15 mm pieces of EPT Sealer 5T. Fold them in half lengthwise, sticky side together.
4. Pull up on the moon roof drain panel and insert a piece of EPT between it and the sunshade rail.
5. While still pulling up on the drain panel, use a small screwdriver to push the EPT completely
under the drain panel. Make sure the EPT is on the rail and not overlapping onto the sunshade.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 on the other side.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Locations > Photo 102
Sunroof / Moonroof Motor: Locations Photo 102
Center Front Of Roof
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Motor > Component Information > Locations > Photo 102 > Page 8539
Sunroof / Moonroof Motor: Locations Photo 103
Center Rear Of Roof
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof >
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay <--> [Sunroof / Moonroof Relay] > Component Information > Locations > Moonroof Close Relay
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Locations Moonroof Close Relay
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof >
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay <--> [Sunroof / Moonroof Relay] > Component Information > Locations > Moonroof Close Relay >
Page 8544
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Locations Moonroof Open Relay
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Switch > Component Information > Locations > Open/Close Switch
Sunroof / Moonroof Switch: Locations Open/Close Switch
Center Rear Of Roof
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Switch > Component Information > Locations > Open/Close Switch > Page 8549
Sunroof / Moonroof Switch: Locations Tilt/Close Switch
Center Rear Of Roof
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Head Rest > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Customer Interest for Head Rest: > 95022 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Gap In Headrest Support Cover
Head Rest: Customer Interest Interior - Gap In Headrest Support Cover
Bulletin No. 95-022
Issue Date APRIL 17, 1995
Model 1994-95 CIVIC
Applicable To See VEHICLES AFFECTED
File Under BODY
Gap in Headrest Support Cover
SYMPTOM
The gap between the front and back pieces of the headrest support cover is too large.
PROBABLE CAUSE
A clip on the rear cover piece is too long.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the clip on the rear cover piece with the shorter Clip listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Remove the headrest support covers. Cover your prying tool with protective tape or a shop towel
so you do not scratch the covers.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Head Rest > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Customer Interest for Head Rest: > 95022 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Gap In Headrest Support Cover > Page 8559
2. Remove the outer clip from the rear cover. The rear cover is marked RR.
3. Install the new Clip listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
4. Reinstall the support cover.
5. If necessary, repeat steps 1 through 4 on the other side.
PARTS INFORMATION
Outer clip:
P/N 90610-SR3-999, H/C 4751228
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 860301
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour for both sides
Failed part: P/N 90609-SG0-003, H/C 2601466
Defect code: 074
Contention code: B01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Head Rest > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> All Technical Service Bulletins for Head Rest: > 95022 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Gap In Headrest Support Cover
Head Rest: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Gap In Headrest Support Cover
Bulletin No. 95-022
Issue Date APRIL 17, 1995
Model 1994-95 CIVIC
Applicable To See VEHICLES AFFECTED
File Under BODY
Gap in Headrest Support Cover
SYMPTOM
The gap between the front and back pieces of the headrest support cover is too large.
PROBABLE CAUSE
A clip on the rear cover piece is too long.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the clip on the rear cover piece with the shorter Clip listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Remove the headrest support covers. Cover your prying tool with protective tape or a shop towel
so you do not scratch the covers.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Head Rest > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> All Technical Service Bulletins for Head Rest: > 95022 > Apr > 95 > Interior - Gap In Headrest Support Cover > Page
8565
2. Remove the outer clip from the rear cover. The rear cover is marked RR.
3. Install the new Clip listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
4. Reinstall the support cover.
5. If necessary, repeat steps 1 through 4 on the other side.
PARTS INFORMATION
Outer clip:
P/N 90610-SR3-999, H/C 4751228
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 860301
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour for both sides
Failed part: P/N 90609-SG0-003, H/C 2601466
Defect code: 074
Contention code: B01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information
Seat Cover: Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information
Use a Steamer to Smooth Out Fabric Upholstery
A garment steamer and a stiff-bristle brush make a great team for removing those nasty wrinkles,
lines, or impressions in fabric upholstery. You can buy an inexpensive, small, hand-held garment/
fabric steamer from a number of different manufacturers. Some of these units even come with a
handy built-in brush.
Once you've got your steamer, follow the manufacturer's instructions to get it ready for use. Then
apply a generous amount of steam to the problem area. Keep the steamer moving slowly over the
area until it's hot and moist.
A Word of Caution: Go easy on the steam if you're cleaning the front passenger seat in a vehicle
with side airbags. Moisture can adversely affect or damage the OPDS sensors in the seatback.
While the area is hot and moist, use a stiff-bristle brush, or the built-in brush if your steamer has
one, to work the fabric back and forth and up and down. Stubborn areas might need more steam
and brushing, so be patient and stay with it. It's worth the effort.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Open/Close Switch
Sunroof / Moonroof Switch: Locations Open/Close Switch
Center Rear Of Roof
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Open/Close Switch > Page 8575
Sunroof / Moonroof Switch: Locations Tilt/Close Switch
Center Rear Of Roof
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Splash Guard: > 95033 > Aug > 95 > Engine - Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt
Splash Guard: Customer Interest Engine - Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt
BULLETIN NO. 95-033
ISSUE DATE: AUG 14, 1995
MODEL: 1992-95 CIVIC
APPLICABLE TO ALL WITH A/C
FILE UNDER BODY
Engine Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt
SYMPTOM
The A/C system does not cool because the compressor belt has come off.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The engine splash shield may go over a parking lot stop when the car is driven into a parking
space. When the driver then backs the car up, the splash shield may catch on the stop, which
causes the splash shield to flex. The splash shield comes in contact with the A/C compressor belt,
knocking it off the pulleys.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Modify the splash shield to improve flexibility. If the existing splash shield is damaged, modify a
new splash shield and install it.
1. Remove the engine splash shield.
2. Inspect the splash shield for damage. If it is no longer usable, obtain a new one (see PARTS
INFORMATION) before proceeding.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Splash Guard: > 95033 > Aug > 95 > Engine - Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt > Page 8584
3. Use a die grinder to remove 20 mm from the five support ribs shown. Smooth and radius the
back edge of each rib after removing the material.
4. Cut a 10 x 35 mm slot on the left side of the center support rib.
5. Cut a 10 x 30 mm slot on the left side of the splash shield.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Splash Guard: > 95033 > Aug > 95 > Engine - Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt > Page 8585
6. Radius one edge of each slot as shown.
7. Install the splash shield on the vehicle.
PARTS INFORMATION
Engine splash shield: P/N 74111-SR3-A00, H/C 3889847
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 810011
Flat rate time: 0.5 hour
Failed part: P/N 74111-SR3-A00 H/C 3889847
Defect code: 004
Contention code: B01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Splash Guard: > 95033 > Aug > 95 > Engine - Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt
Splash Guard: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt
BULLETIN NO. 95-033
ISSUE DATE: AUG 14, 1995
MODEL: 1992-95 CIVIC
APPLICABLE TO ALL WITH A/C
FILE UNDER BODY
Engine Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt
SYMPTOM
The A/C system does not cool because the compressor belt has come off.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The engine splash shield may go over a parking lot stop when the car is driven into a parking
space. When the driver then backs the car up, the splash shield may catch on the stop, which
causes the splash shield to flex. The splash shield comes in contact with the A/C compressor belt,
knocking it off the pulleys.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Modify the splash shield to improve flexibility. If the existing splash shield is damaged, modify a
new splash shield and install it.
1. Remove the engine splash shield.
2. Inspect the splash shield for damage. If it is no longer usable, obtain a new one (see PARTS
INFORMATION) before proceeding.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Splash Guard: > 95033 > Aug > 95 > Engine - Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt > Page
8591
3. Use a die grinder to remove 20 mm from the five support ribs shown. Smooth and radius the
back edge of each rib after removing the material.
4. Cut a 10 x 35 mm slot on the left side of the center support rib.
5. Cut a 10 x 30 mm slot on the left side of the splash shield.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Splash Guard: > 95033 > Aug > 95 > Engine - Splash Shield Knocks Off the A/C Belt > Page
8592
6. Radius one edge of each slot as shown.
7. Install the splash shield on the vehicle.
PARTS INFORMATION
Engine splash shield: P/N 74111-SR3-A00, H/C 3889847
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Operation number: 810011
Flat rate time: 0.5 hour
Failed part: P/N 74111-SR3-A00 H/C 3889847
Defect code: 004
Contention code: B01
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Unibody > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body Unibody Repair Guidelines
Unibody: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Unibody Repair Guidelines
07-008
February 2, 2007
Applies To: ALL
Clarification of Honda Unibody Repair Policy
BACKGROUND
Honda automobiles and trucks are built to precise standards so that they can perform well under
many situations. For example, they offer a firm responsive ride yet yield when necessary under the
forces of a collision to help protect the vehicle occupants.
HONDA REPAIR POLICY
Sectioning Frame Components
When body repairs are necessary, Honda recommends that any repairs be performed by an
experienced professional, using the Honda body repair manual, and that component replacement
be accomplished along factory seams. Failure to do so can result in a number of problems,
including improperly fitting parts, noises, tire wear, and most importantly, changes in vehicle
dynamics and occupant protection in a subsequent crash.
In particular, Honda strongly recommends against the process of joining cut pieces from separate
vehicle~commonly referred to as clipping. This is not an authorized Honda repair method. Any
problem with other components resulting from such improper vehicle repairs is not covered under
Honda's factory or extended warranties.
Also, because what's in a part is as important as how it looks, Honda strongly recommends the use
of Honda Genuine repair parts. The material used to create the part, such as high-strength steel,
and the subtle shapes of the part, determine how it will perform in normal operation or in a
subsequent collision. Using Honda Genuine repair parts helps return the vehicle to its pre-crash
condition.
ADHESIVES/WELDING
Using adhesives in place of welding for component replacement is not an authorized Honda repair
method. It is important to repair at factory seams using the same procedure as the factory
assembly process except where specified otherwise in the Honda body repair manual. The door
skin is welded at the top and is glued around the crimp. Each body repair manual states that if the
reinforcement in the door is damaged, the complete door must be replaced.
NOTE:
Because they are made of high-strength steel, door and bumper reinforcements must not be
repaired or straightened.
INFORMATION RESOURCES
Extensive research and development goes into every Honda to provide safety for those inside as
well as outside the vehicle. Therefore, it is critical that collision repair facilities do not change a
vehicle during collision repair. Please visit the following websites for further information about
Honda safety:
^ world.honda.com/safety, and
^ world.honda.com/news/2003/4030904_2.html Body repair manuals are available for every new
Honda model series that is sold in the U.S. Each manual provides instructions for proper repair
procedures, and drawings that show where each factory seam and weld on the vehicle is located.
In a few instances, the manual also indicates where it is acceptable to cut panels and sections
other than at factory seams.
Body repair manuals can be purchased from Helm, Inc. using one of these methods:
^ Call Helm Inc. at 1-800-782-4356
^ Go online at www.helminc.com
Collision repair facilities can also subscribe to all manuals at www. serviceexpress.honda.com.
Dealers can log onto ISIS and view body repair manuals in the Search By Publication section.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Unibody > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body Unibody Repair Guidelines > Page 8597
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Weatherstrip: > 92021 > Apr > 95 > Door - Weatherstrip Detached or Deformed
Weatherstrip: Customer Interest Door - Weatherstrip Detached or Deformed
Bulletin No. 92-021
Issue Date April 17, 1995
Model [NEW] 1992-95 Civic 4-door
Applicable to [NEW] All
File Under Body
Rear Door Weatherstrip Detached or Deformed (Supersede 92-021, Wind Noise From Rear Door,
dated June 19, 1992)
PROBLEM [NEW]
A section of the weatherstrip on the rear door(s) has come loose, possibly causing it to get
deformed or torn by the door.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Reattach or replace the weatherstrip.
1. Remove the retaining clip that holds the weatherstrip to the door.
2. Examine the weatherstrip. If it is torn, remove and discard it. If it is OK, lift about 4 mm on each
side of the affected area.
3. Clean the door sash and the weatherstrip in the affected area with isopropyl alcohol, and allow it
to dry.
4. Apply a 4 mm x 150 mm bead of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (P/N 051135-08011) to the door
sash and the weatherstrip.
NOTE:
Careful application of the weatherstrip adhesive will minimize cleanup. Remove traces of
weatherstrip adhesive with 3M Adhesive Cleaner, 3M P/N 051135-08904.
5. Wait until the adhesive is tacky, then reinstall the weatherstrip.
6. Leave the door open for 5 to 10 minutes to allow for complete drying.
PARTS INFORMATION
Weatherstrip, right door: P/N 72810-SR4-003, H/C 3889235
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Weatherstrip: > 92021 > Apr > 95 > Door - Weatherstrip Detached or Deformed > Page 8606
Weatherstrip, left door: P/N 72850-SR4-003, H/C 3889292
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Failed part, right door: P/N 72810-SR4-003 H/C 3889235
Failed part, left door: P/N 72850-SR4-003 H/C 3889292
Defect code: 056
Contention code: B07
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Weatherstrip: > 92021 > Apr > 95 > Door - Weatherstrip Detached or Deformed
Weatherstrip: All Technical Service Bulletins Door - Weatherstrip Detached or Deformed
Bulletin No. 92-021
Issue Date April 17, 1995
Model [NEW] 1992-95 Civic 4-door
Applicable to [NEW] All
File Under Body
Rear Door Weatherstrip Detached or Deformed (Supersede 92-021, Wind Noise From Rear Door,
dated June 19, 1992)
PROBLEM [NEW]
A section of the weatherstrip on the rear door(s) has come loose, possibly causing it to get
deformed or torn by the door.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Reattach or replace the weatherstrip.
1. Remove the retaining clip that holds the weatherstrip to the door.
2. Examine the weatherstrip. If it is torn, remove and discard it. If it is OK, lift about 4 mm on each
side of the affected area.
3. Clean the door sash and the weatherstrip in the affected area with isopropyl alcohol, and allow it
to dry.
4. Apply a 4 mm x 150 mm bead of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (P/N 051135-08011) to the door
sash and the weatherstrip.
NOTE:
Careful application of the weatherstrip adhesive will minimize cleanup. Remove traces of
weatherstrip adhesive with 3M Adhesive Cleaner, 3M P/N 051135-08904.
5. Wait until the adhesive is tacky, then reinstall the weatherstrip.
6. Leave the door open for 5 to 10 minutes to allow for complete drying.
PARTS INFORMATION
Weatherstrip, right door: P/N 72810-SR4-003, H/C 3889235
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Weatherstrip: > 92021 > Apr > 95 > Door - Weatherstrip Detached or Deformed > Page 8612
Weatherstrip, left door: P/N 72850-SR4-003, H/C 3889292
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Failed part, right door: P/N 72810-SR4-003 H/C 3889235
Failed part, left door: P/N 72850-SR4-003 H/C 3889292
Defect code: 056
Contention code: B07
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control) <--> [Brake Switch (Cruise Control)] >
Component Information > Locations
Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control): Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control) <--> [Brake Switch (Cruise Control)] >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8617
Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control): Testing and Inspection
1. Disconnect 4-P connector from switch.
Fig. 15 Brake Light Switch
2. Check for continuity between terminals, Fig. 15. 3. Adjust pedal height if necessary or replace
switch if defective.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise Control > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Disconnect 2-P connector from switch.
Fig. 17 Clutch Switch Components
2. Check for continuity between terminals, Fig. 17.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Cruise Control Module: Locations
Left Kick Panel - Photo 53
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Actuator <--> [Cruise Control Servo] > Component Information
> Locations
Cruise Control Actuator: Locations
Left Front Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Actuator <--> [Cruise Control Servo] > Component Information
> Locations > Page 8627
Cruise Control Actuator: Testing and Inspection
1. Disconnect 4-P connector from actuator. 2. Ensure output linkage moves smoothly.
Fig. 13 Actuator Test Components
3. Connect battery positive to terminal D and negative to terminal A, Fig. 13. 4. Ensure magnetic
clutch engages and output linkage is locked. 5. If the output linkage is not locked, replace actuator
assembly.
Fig. 14 Actuator Test
6. Check operation of actuator motor in each output linkage position according to table, Fig. 14.
You should be able to hear motor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Actuator Cable <--> [Cruise Control Servo Cable] > Component Information >
Adjustments
Actuator Cable: Adjustments
Fig. 7 Actuator Cable Adjustment
1. Check actuator cable for smooth operation. Cable should not bind or stick in proper operating
condition. 2. Start engine and measure actuator rod movement until cable pulls on actuator lever
when engine speed starts to increase. Refer to Fig. 7 for
locknut freeplay measurement.
3. If locknut freeplay is not within specifications, loosen locknut and turn adjusting nut as required,
Fig. 7. 4. Tighten locknut and recheck freeplay measurement. 5. Test drive car to ensure proper
operation of speed control system.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Actuator Cable <--> [Cruise Control Servo Cable] > Component Information >
Adjustments > Page 8631
Actuator Cable: Service and Repair
Actuator/Cable Replacement
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable.
Fig. 44 Actuator Cable Components
3. Pull back boot and loosen locknut, then disconnect cable from bracket, Fig. 44. 4. Disconnect
cable end from actuator rod. 5. Disconnect 4-P connector. 6. Pull ventilation hose from grommet. 7.
Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve. 8. Remove two actuator mount attaching bolts, then
the actuator with bracket and reservoir. 9. Disconnect cable end from linkage over accelerator
pedal, then turn grommet 90° in firewall and remove cable.
10. Reverse procedure to install, adjusting actuator cable as necessary. 11. On models equipped
with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming
and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Main Switch Test/Replacement
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Main Switch Test/Replacement
1. Carefully remove switch from instrument panel and disconnect electrical connectors. 2. Remove
cruise control switch from switch panel.
Fig. 29 Main Switch Test
3. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to tables, Fig. 29.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 8636
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume Switch Test/Replacement
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the positive cable. 3. Ensure wheels are in straight ahead
position, then remove lower instrument panel cover.
Fig. 37 Test Harness "C" Installation. W/Air Bag
4. Disconnect cable reel harness 6-P connector from air bag harness, then connect test harness C
only to cable reel harness, Fig. 37.
Fig. 38 Set/Resume Switch Test. W/Air Bag
5. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 38.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 8637
Fig. 39 Set/Resume Switch Cover Removal
6. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 39.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 8638
Fig. 40 Set/resume Switch Steering Wheel Location Test. W/Air Bag
7. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 40. 8. If there is no continuity
in any position, replace set/resume switch. 9. If there is continuity in every switch position, replace
cable reel.
10. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 8639
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Shift Lever Position Switch
1. Remove front console.
Fig. 43 Shift Lever Position Test
2. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 43.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module > Component
Information > Locations
Cruise Control Module: Locations
Left Kick Panel - Photo 53
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control)
<--> [Brake Switch (Cruise Control)] > Component Information > Locations
Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control): Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control)
<--> [Brake Switch (Cruise Control)] > Component Information > Locations > Page 8648
Brake Lamp Switch (Cruise Control): Testing and Inspection
1. Disconnect 4-P connector from switch.
Fig. 15 Brake Light Switch
2. Check for continuity between terminals, Fig. 15. 3. Adjust pedal height if necessary or replace
switch if defective.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise Control >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Disconnect 2-P connector from switch.
Fig. 17 Clutch Switch Components
2. Check for continuity between terminals, Fig. 17.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Switch Test/Replacement
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Main Switch Test/Replacement
1. Carefully remove switch from instrument panel and disconnect electrical connectors. 2. Remove
cruise control switch from switch panel.
Fig. 29 Main Switch Test
3. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to tables, Fig. 29.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 8656
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume Switch Test/Replacement
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the positive cable. 3. Ensure wheels are in straight ahead
position, then remove lower instrument panel cover.
Fig. 37 Test Harness "C" Installation. W/Air Bag
4. Disconnect cable reel harness 6-P connector from air bag harness, then connect test harness C
only to cable reel harness, Fig. 37.
Fig. 38 Set/Resume Switch Test. W/Air Bag
5. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 38.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 8657
Fig. 39 Set/Resume Switch Cover Removal
6. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 39.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 8658
Fig. 40 Set/resume Switch Steering Wheel Location Test. W/Air Bag
7. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 40. 8. If there is no continuity
in any position, replace set/resume switch. 9. If there is continuity in every switch position, replace
cable reel.
10. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Switch Test/Replacement > Page 8659
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Shift Lever Position Switch
1. Remove front console.
Fig. 43 Shift Lever Position Test
2. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 43.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > ABS Light > Component Information >
Description and Operation
ABS Light: Description and Operation
ABS Indicator Light:
The ABS indicator light comes on for three seconds and then goes off when the control unit detects
no problem during the initial diagnosis right after the engine starts.
However, the ABS indicator light can stay on for up to 40 seconds when the control unit starts to
check for pump overrun, etc. during the initial diagnosis.
The ABS indicator light comes on, and the ABS control unit memorizes the diagnostic trouble code
(DTC) under certain conditions.
- The parking brake is applied for more than 30 seconds while the vehicle is being driven. (DTC
2-1)
- The transmission downshifted excessively. (DTC 4-1, 4-2)
- The vehicle loses traction, and the front wheels spin for more than one minute when starting from
a stuck condition in mud, snow, or sandy road. (DTC 4-8)
- The tires adhesion is lost due to excessive cornering speed. (DTC 5, 5-4, 5-8)
- The vehicle is driven on an extremely rough road. (DTC 8-1)
- The vehicle is interfered by strong radio waves (noise), for example, illegal radio, etc. (DTC 8-2)
NOTE: If there is any trouble in the system, the ABS indicator light turns on during driving.
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC):
- When the control unit detects a problem and the ABS indicator light comes on, the control unit
memorizes the DTC.
- The control unit has three memory registers. When a problem occurs, the control unit stores the
DTC in the first memory register. If another problem occurs, or the same problem occurs again, the
control unit moves the first DTC to the next memory register, and stores the second DTC in the first
register. If there's a third problem occurrence, the two existing DTCs are moved up one register,
and the third DTC is stored in the first register. If problems continue to occur, the oldest problem is
moved out of the last register and lost, and the most recent problem is stored in the first register.
When the same problem occurs three times, the same DTC is stored in all memory registers.
(Refer to the Symptom-to- System Chart for diagnostic period.)
- The most recent DTC is indicated first, and the oldest DTC is indicated last.
- The DTCs are erased from the control unit when the ABS control unit +B2 power supply or
connector is disconnected.
- The control unit's memory can be erased by disconnecting the ABS B2 fuse for more than three
seconds.
Self-diagnosis:
- There are three self-diagnoses described below.
1. Initial diagnosis: Performed right after the engine starts until the ABS indicator light goes off. 2
Regular diagnosis: Continuously performed (under some conditions) after the ABS indicator light
goes off until the engine stops.
3. Individual part/system diagnosis: Diagnosis about a specific part/system under its operating
conditions.
- The CPU (central processing unit) controls the following when it detects a problem during
self-diagnosis:
1. Turns the ABS indicator light ON. 2. Turns the front and rear fail-safe relays off. 3. Stops the
ABS control. 4. Stops the ABS pump. (The pump may work under some conditions.) 5. After the
DTC is stored in the control unit, the CPU stops self-diagnosis.
Kickback and Pump Operation:
- When the engine is started, the ABS control unit begins the initial diagnosis and operates the
solenoid valve one time. The kickback may be felt when the brake pedal is depressed.
- When the ABS control unit detects the pressure switch OFF signal during the initial diagnosis, it
operates the pump motor, and performs the pump motor over-run diagnosis and pump motor
diagnosis. Therefore, there are two cases where the pump motor operates or does not operate
after the engine is started.
- Normally, after the initial diagnosis, the pump motor operates based on the pressure switch
signal, regardless of the vehicle speed.
Troubleshooting:
- When two or three DTCs are stored in the control unit, perform troubleshooting for the DTC that
appears first.
- When a customer's reported problem cannot be verified on the car, ask the customer about the
conditions when the ABS indicator light came ON, and test drive the car under those conditions, if
possible. When the ABS indicator light does not come ON during the test, check for loose terminals
and check by shaking the harnesses and connectors while following the flowchart.
- The connector terminal numbers are viewed from the wire side for the female terminals, and from
the terminal side for the male terminals.
- After the repair finished off, test drive the car and check the ABS indicator light does not come ON
again during the test. (Refer to the Symptom-to-System Chart for diagnostic period.)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > ABS Light > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Page 8664
ABS Light: Service and Repair
ABS LAMP RESET PROCEDURE
^ If all repairs have been completed, disconnect the ABS B2 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood
fuse/relay box for at least three (3) seconds to erase the ABS control unit's memory.
NOTE: The ABS control unit's memory will be erased if the connector is disconnected from the
ABS control unit or the ABS control unit is removed from the body.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Audible Warning Device: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8669
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8670
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8671
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8672
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8673
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8674
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8675
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8676
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8677
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8678
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8679
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8680
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8681
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8682
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8683
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8684
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8685
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8686
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Audible Warning Device: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Seat Belt And Ignition Key Reminders
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Charge Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection
1. With ignition switch in On position, charge warning lamp should illuminate. If charge warning
lamp is not illuminated, proceed to next numerical
step. If charge warning lamp does illuminate perform the following: a. Start engine, charge warning
lamp should go off. If charge warning lamp does not go out, continue test. If charge warning lamp
does go out,
charge warning light system is OK.
b. Turn ignition switch to Off position and disconnect 4-P connector from alternator, then turn
ignition switch to On position. If charge warning
lamp illuminates, repair short to ground in white/blue wire. If charge warning lamp does not
illuminate, charge warning light system is OK.
2. Turn ignition switch to Off position and check No. 24 fuse. 3. If fuse is blown, replace it. If fuse is
OK, continue test. 4. Disconnect 4-P connector from alternator and turn ignition switch on, then
check for voltage at the IG (black/yellow wire) terminal of 4-P
connector. If battery voltage is not present, repair open in black/yellow wire. If battery voltage is
present, continue test.
5. Ground white/blue wire at L terminal of 4-P connector. If charge warning light does not come on,
repair either blown charge system light bulb or
open in white/blue wire. If charge warning light does come on, replace voltage regulator.
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Cigarette Lighter: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Cigarette Lighter: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Cigarette Lighter
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Clock: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Clock: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8809
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Clock
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Dash Sensor Mounting Bolts ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 16 Driver Side Air Bag Assembly To Steering Wheel Bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 7.2
Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting Nuts & Bolts ..................................................................................
............................................................................. 7.2 SRS Unit Mounting Bolts .................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 7.2 Steering Wheel To Column Steering Shaft Nut ..........................................................................
....................................................................................... 36
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8834
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
SRS connectors automatically short when disconnected.
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8835
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair
The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) must be disarmed prior to disconnecting any electrical
connectors or servicing any system components or items located near SRS electrical connectors.
SRS electrical wiring can be identified by its yellow outer protective coating. To disarm the SRS,
proceed as follows:
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
Fig. 1 Driver Air Bag Disarming
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
will allow air bag system back-up circuit capacitor to discharge.
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1 5. Remove glove compartment and access panel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8836
Fig. 4 Passenger Air Bag Disarming
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 4.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8837
Fig. 12 Fuse Panel/SRS Connector
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 12, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, A SYSTEM MALFUNCTION IS
INDICATED. Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag
Systems/Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Photo 90
Door Switch: Locations Photo 90
Rear Of Driver's Door Area (Right Front Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Photo 90 > Page 8842
Door Switch: Locations Rear Door Switch
Rear Of Left Door Area (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Description and Operation
Fuel Gauge: Description and Operation
When the ignition switch is in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 15 to
the gauges in the gauge assembly.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge has two intersecting coils wound around a
permanent magnet rotor. Voltage applied to the coils, through fuse 15, generates a magnetic field.
The magnetic field, controlled by the coolant temperature sending unit, causes the rotor to rotate
and the gauge needle to move. As the resistance in the sending unit varies, current through the
gauge coils changes. The gauge needle moves toward the coil with the strongest magnetic field.
The fuel gauge works the same way.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sending unit's resistance varies from about 137 ohms at low
engine temperature to between 30-46 ohms at high temperature (radiator fan running).
The fuel gauge sending unit's resistance varies from about 2-5 ohms at full, to about 110 ohms at
empty. When you turn the ignition switch OFF, the gauge remains at the last reading until you turn
the ignition switch to ON (II) or START (III) again.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Page 8846
Fuel Gauge: Testing and Inspection
1. Check No. 15 (10A) fuse in under dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Disconnect 3-P
connector from fuel gauge sending unit.
Fig. 4 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit
3. Connect voltmeter positive probe to (B) yellow/white terminal and negative probe to (A)
black/white terminal, then turn ignition switch to On
position, Fig. 4.
4. Voltage should be between 5-8 volts. 5. If voltage is not as specified, check the following:
a. Check open yellow/white wire. b. Check blown fuse or poor ground.
6. Turn ignition switch On, then check as pointer of fuel gauge starts moving toward F mark. Turn
ignition switch to Off before pointer reaches F
mark on gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage fuel gauge.
7. If pointer of fuel gauge does not move, replace gauge. 8. If gauge is satisfactory, inspect fuel
gauge and sending unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Dash Sensor Mounting Bolts ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 16 Driver Side Air Bag Assembly To Steering Wheel Bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 7.2
Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting Nuts & Bolts ..................................................................................
............................................................................. 7.2 SRS Unit Mounting Bolts .................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 7.2 Steering Wheel To Column Steering Shaft Nut ..........................................................................
....................................................................................... 36
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8851
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
SRS connectors automatically short when disconnected.
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8852
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair
The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) must be disarmed prior to disconnecting any electrical
connectors or servicing any system components or items located near SRS electrical connectors.
SRS electrical wiring can be identified by its yellow outer protective coating. To disarm the SRS,
proceed as follows:
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
Fig. 1 Driver Air Bag Disarming
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
will allow air bag system back-up circuit capacitor to discharge.
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1 5. Remove glove compartment and access panel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8853
Fig. 4 Passenger Air Bag Disarming
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 4.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Specifications > Page 8854
Fig. 12 Fuse Panel/SRS Connector
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 12, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, A SYSTEM MALFUNCTION IS
INDICATED. Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag
Systems/Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Key Reminder Switch > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Key Reminder Switch: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied at all times to the seat belt reminder/key-ON beeper circuit in the
integrated control unit. When you turn ON the ignition key switch the integrated control unit senses
ground. If you open the driver's door, the door switch closes, causing the beeper to sound until the
door is closed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair
If equipped with maintenance reminder flag:
After completing the required service, the maintenance flags may be reset by inserting the ignition
key into the appropriate slot, on the instrument below the indicator flag. When the ignition key is
inserted into the slot, the indicator flag should change to green.
If equipped with maintenance reminder lamp:
1. Turn off the engine. 2. Press and hold the select/reset button(s) on the instrument panel, then
turn the ignition switch ON (Position II). 3. Hold the button(s) for at least 10 seconds, until the
indicator resets.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8864
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection
When the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) has been reported on, do the following:
1. Connect the Service Check Connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown. (The 2P Service
Check Connector is located under the dash on
the passenger side of the car.) Turn the ignition switch on.
2. Note the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC): The MIL indicates a code by the length and number of
blinks. The MIL can indicate simultaneous
component problems by blinking separate codes, one after another. Codes I through 9 are
indicated by individual short blinks. Codes 10 through 48 are indicated by a series of long and short
blinks. The number of long blinks equals the first digit, the number of
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Odometer > Component Information >
Description and Operation
Odometer: Description and Operation
When the ignition switch is in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 15 to
the gauges in the gauge assembly.
The odometer and speedometer drive circuits receive pulses from the Vehicle Speed Sensor
(VSS). The pulse rate increases as the car accelerates. The frequency and duration of these input
pulses are measured and displayed by the speedometer, odometer and tripmeter.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8872
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8873
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8874
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8875
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8876
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8877
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8878
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8879
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8880
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8881
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8882
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8883
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8884
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8885
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8886
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8887
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8888
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8889
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8890
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8891
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Oil Pressure Indicator System
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Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Brake Switch
Below Rear Console
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Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch > Page 8926
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Pin Switch
Below Center Console
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Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8979
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8980
Seat Belt And Ignition Key Reminders
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Seat Belt Reminder Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 8981
Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is applied to the seat belt reminder
light. When the seat belt is not buckled the seat belt reminder/key-ON beeper circuit in the
integrated control unit senses ground through the closed seat belt switch. The seat belt reminder
light flashes ON and OFF for five seconds. The reminder light and beeper will go OFF when the
seat belt is buckled or the timer circuit deactivates them.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Photo 90
Door Switch: Locations Photo 90
Rear Of Driver's Door Area (Right Front Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Photo 90 > Page 8987
Door Switch: Locations Rear Door Switch
Rear Of Left Door Area (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Key Reminder Switch > Component Information > Description and Operation
Key Reminder Switch: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied at all times to the seat belt reminder/key-ON beeper circuit in the
integrated control unit. When you turn ON the ignition key switch the integrated control unit senses
ground. If you open the driver's door, the door switch closes, causing the beeper to sound until the
door is closed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Parking Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Brake Switch
Below Rear Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Parking Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations > Parking Brake Switch > Page 8995
Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Parking Pin Switch
Below Center Console
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Speedometer Head > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Speedometer Head: Description and Operation
When the ignition switch is in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 15 to
the gauges in the gauge assembly.
The odometer and speedometer drive circuits receive pulses from the Vehicle Speed Sensor
(VSS). The pulse rate increases as the car accelerates. The frequency and duration of these input
pulses are measured and displayed by the speedometer, odometer and tripmeter.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tachometer > Tachometer Connector >
Component Information > Locations
Tachometer Connector: Locations
Left Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation
When the ignition switch is in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 15 to
the gauges in the gauge assembly.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge has two intersecting coils wound around a
permanent magnet rotor. Voltage applied to the coils, through fuse 15, generates a magnetic field.
The magnetic field, controlled by the coolant temperature sending unit, causes the rotor to rotate
and the gauge needle to move. As the resistance in the sending unit varies, current through the
gauge coils changes. The gauge needle moves toward the coil with the strongest magnetic field.
The fuel gauge works the same way.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sending unit's resistance varies from about 137 ohms at low
engine temperature to between 30-46 ohms at high temperature (radiator fan running).
The fuel gauge sending unit's resistance varies from about 2-5 ohms at full, to about 110 ohms at
empty. When you turn the ignition switch OFF, the gauge remains at the last reading until you turn
the ignition switch to ON (II) or START (III) again.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 9006
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection
1. Check No. 15 (10A) fuse in under dash fuse/relay box before testing.
Fig. 1 Engine Coolant Temperature Unit
2. Ensure ignition switch is in Off position, then disconnect yellow/green wire from coolant
temperature sending unit, Fig. 1, and ground it with a
jumper wire.
3. Turn ignition switch to On position. 4. Check as needle of coolant temperature gauge starts
moving toward H mark. Turn ignition switch to Off position before pointer reaches H
mark on gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage gauge.
5. If pointer of gauge does not move, check the following:
a. Blown fuse in under dash fuse/relay box. b. Open in yellow/green wire, yellow or red wire. c. If
fuse and wiring are satisfactory, replace coolant temperature gauge.
6. If gauge is satisfactory, inspect sending unit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Temperature Sensor (Gauge) >
Component Information > Locations
Temperature Sensor (Gauge): Locations
Right Front Of Engine.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Locations
Transmission Shift Position Indicator Lamp: Locations
When the ignition switch is in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is applied to the A/T gear
position indicator through fuse 15. The A/T gear position switch provides a ground for each shift
lever position. As an input is grounded, its indicator light comes on.
When the headlight switch is in PARK or HEAD, voltage is applied through the RED/BLK wire to
the dimming circuit in the A/T gear position indicator. The illumination intensity is varied by the dash
lights brightness controller through the RED return wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Shift Position Indicator Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9015
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9016
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9017
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9018
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9019
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9020
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9021
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9022
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9023
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9024
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9025
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9026
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9027
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9028
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9029
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9030
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9031
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9032
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9033
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9034
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9035
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9036
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9037
Transmission Shift Position Indicator Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9038
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9039
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9040
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9041
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9042
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9043
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9044
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9045
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9046
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9047
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9048
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9049
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9050
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9051
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9052
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9053
Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9062
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9063
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9064
A/T Gear Position Indicator
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Backup Lamp Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Backup Lamp Switch: Locations
Right Front Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Brake Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9074
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9075
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9076
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9077
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9078
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9079
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9080
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9081
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9082
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9083
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9084
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9085
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9086
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9087
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9088
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9089
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9090
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9091
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9092
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9093
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9094
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9095
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9096
Brake Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9097
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9098
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9099
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9100
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9101
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9102
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9103
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Information and Instructions > Page 9104
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9105
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9106
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Brake Lights- Sedan
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Brake Light Switch: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect wiring at switch. 2. Loosen locknut and remove switch. 3. Reverse procedure to
install. Allow 0.039-0.196 inch (1-5 mm) brake pedal freeplay.
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Cargo Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Information and Instructions > Page 9139
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9140
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9141
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9142
Symbol Identification
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Information and Instructions > Page 9143
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Information and Instructions > Page 9144
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Information and Instructions > Page 9145
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Cargo Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Information and Instructions > Page 9157
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Trunk/Cargo Area Light
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Service and Repair
Hatchback:
1. Remove the access panel and two screws, then pull out the high mount brake light.
Coupe/Sedan:
1. Open the trunk lid and disconnect the 2-P connector from the high mount brake light. 2. Remove
the two screws and two nuts, then remove the high mount brake light from the rear shelf. 3. Install
the high mount brake light in the reverse order of removal. Clean the rear window glass before
installing the light.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit >
Component Information > Locations
Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Locations
Daytime Running light Relay/Control Unit
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Component Information > Locations > Page 9188
Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection
Input Test
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Component Information > Locations > Page 9189
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Information and Instructions
Dome Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Dome Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Ceiling Light
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations > Photo 90
Door Switch: Locations Photo 90
Rear Of Driver's Door Area (Right Front Similar)
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9248
Door Switch: Locations Rear Door Switch
Rear Of Left Door Area (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Locations
Fog/Driving Lamp Relay: Locations
Behind Dash, Right Of Steering Column
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning Lamps > Hazard Flasher Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Hazard Flasher Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
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Diagram Information and Instructions
Headlamp Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9265
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9266
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9267
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9268
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9269
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9271
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9272
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9276
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Headlamp Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9309
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9310
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9311
Headlamp Switch: Electrical Diagrams
Headlight Switch (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9312
Headlight Switch (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9313
Headlight Switch (Part 3 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Switch > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 9314
Headlamp Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover. 4. Remove steering
column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6. Remove two switch
attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Horn > Horn Relay > Component Information > Locations
Horn Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash - Photo 62
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Horn > Horn Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Horn Switch: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch ON (II), or
has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit, the airbags
could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
NOTE: The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before,
- disconnecting the battery.
- removing the No.32 (7.5 A) fuse from the under hood fuse/relay box.
- removing the radio.
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5~digit code to restore radio operation.
1. Disconnect both the negative cable and positive cable from the banery, and wait at least three
minutes. 2. Make sure the wheels are turned straight ahead. 3. Remove the access panel below
the driver's airbag, then remove the short connector (RED) from the panel. 4. Disconnect the 3-P
connector between the driver's 'airbag and cable reel, then connect the short connector (RED) on
the airbag side of the
connector.
5. Remove the glove box and access panel.
6. Disconnect the 3-P connector between the front passenger's airbag and the SRS main harness,
then connect the short connector (RED) on the
airbag side of the connector.
7. Remove the dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Horn > Horn Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Page 9322
8. Disconnect the cable reel harness 6-P connector from the SRS main harness, then connect Test
Harness C only to the cable reel harness.
9. Check for continuity between the No.3 terminal and body ground with the horn switch pressed.
There should be continuity.
10. Remove the two TORX® bolts using a TORX® T30 bit, then remove the driver's airbag
assembly.
11. Check for continuity between the horn switch positive terminal and the steering column shaft
with the horn switch pressed.
If there is continuity.
- With cruise control: Test the set/resume switch. If the switch is OK, replace the cable reel.
- Without cruise control: Replace the cable reel.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Horn > Horn Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Page 9323
If there is no continuity;
- Remove the steering wheel and the four screws, then remove the steering wheel cover. Replace
the faulty horn switch.
12. Reinstall the steering wheel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
License Plate Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9328
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9329
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9330
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9331
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9332
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9333
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9334
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9335
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9336
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9337
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9338
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9339
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9340
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9341
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9342
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9343
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9344
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9345
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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Information and Instructions > Page 9346
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9347
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9348
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9349
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9350
License Plate Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Information and Instructions > Page 9351
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9352
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9353
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9354
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9355
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9356
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information and Instructions > Page 9359
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Information and Instructions > Page 9360
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9361
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9363
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Information and Instructions > Page 9364
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Information and Instructions > Page 9365
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9377
License Plate Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
License, Parking, And Taillights
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9378
Taillights And License Lights
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Control Unit > Component Information > Locations
Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Locations
Daytime Running light Relay/Control Unit
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Control Unit > Component Information > Locations > Page 9383
Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection
Input Test
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Control Unit > Component Information > Locations > Page 9384
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Fog/Driving Lamp Relay: Locations
Behind Dash, Right Of Steering Column
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Flasher Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Hazard Flasher Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Horn Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Horn Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash - Photo 62
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Turn Signal Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Backup Lamp Switch: Locations
Right Front Of Engine
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Brake Light Switch: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect wiring at switch. 2. Loosen locknut and remove switch. 3. Reverse procedure to
install. Allow 0.039-0.196 inch (1-5 mm) brake pedal freeplay.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Combination Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Combination Switch: Testing and Inspection
Combination Light Switch / Test
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Combination Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 9407
CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II),
or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit; the
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover and steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 4-P and 7-P
connectors from the switch. 3. Check the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good
contact. If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary,
and recheck the system.
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Photo 90
Door Switch: Locations Photo 90
Rear Of Driver's Door Area (Right Front Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Photo 90 > Page 9412
Door Switch: Locations Rear Door Switch
Rear Of Left Door Area (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Headlamp Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9417
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9418
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9419
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9420
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9421
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9422
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9423
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9424
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9425
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9426
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9427
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9428
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9429
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9430
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9431
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9432
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9433
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9434
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9435
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9436
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9437
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9438
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9439
Headlamp Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9440
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9441
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9442
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9443
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9444
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9445
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9446
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Headlamp Switch: Electrical Diagrams
Headlight Switch (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9467
Headlight Switch (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9468
Headlight Switch (Part 3 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 9469
Headlamp Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover. 4. Remove steering
column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6. Remove two switch
attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Horn Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
Horn Switch: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch ON (II), or
has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit, the airbags
could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
NOTE: The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before,
- disconnecting the battery.
- removing the No.32 (7.5 A) fuse from the under hood fuse/relay box.
- removing the radio.
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5~digit code to restore radio operation.
1. Disconnect both the negative cable and positive cable from the banery, and wait at least three
minutes. 2. Make sure the wheels are turned straight ahead. 3. Remove the access panel below
the driver's airbag, then remove the short connector (RED) from the panel. 4. Disconnect the 3-P
connector between the driver's 'airbag and cable reel, then connect the short connector (RED) on
the airbag side of the
connector.
5. Remove the glove box and access panel.
6. Disconnect the 3-P connector between the front passenger's airbag and the SRS main harness,
then connect the short connector (RED) on the
airbag side of the connector.
7. Remove the dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Horn Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 9473
8. Disconnect the cable reel harness 6-P connector from the SRS main harness, then connect Test
Harness C only to the cable reel harness.
9. Check for continuity between the No.3 terminal and body ground with the horn switch pressed.
There should be continuity.
10. Remove the two TORX® bolts using a TORX® T30 bit, then remove the driver's airbag
assembly.
11. Check for continuity between the horn switch positive terminal and the steering column shaft
with the horn switch pressed.
If there is continuity.
- With cruise control: Test the set/resume switch. If the switch is OK, replace the cable reel.
- Without cruise control: Replace the cable reel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Horn Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 9474
If there is no continuity;
- Remove the steering wheel and the four screws, then remove the steering wheel cover. Replace
the faulty horn switch.
12. Reinstall the steering wheel.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Turn Signal Switch: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 9478
CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II),
or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit; the
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover and steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 4-P and 7-P
connectors from the switch. 3. Check the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good
contact. If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary,
and recheck the system.
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 9479
Turn Signal Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover. 4. Remove steering
column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6. Remove two switch
attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions
Tail Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9484
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9485
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9486
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9487
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9488
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9489
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9490
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9491
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9492
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9493
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9494
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9495
Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9496
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9497
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9498
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9499
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9500
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9501
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9502
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9503
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9504
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9505
Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9506
Tail Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9507
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9508
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9509
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9510
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9511
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9512
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9513
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9514
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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and Instructions > Page 9519
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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and Instructions > Page 9520
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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and Instructions > Page 9523
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
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Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
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Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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and Instructions > Page 9533
Tail Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
License, Parking, And Taillights
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and Instructions > Page 9534
Taillights And License Lights
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Trunk Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9539
Circuit Schematics
Component Locations
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Information and Instructions > Page 9540
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 9542
Ground Distribution Schematics
Alternate View
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9543
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Circuit Identification For In-Line and Fuse Box Connectors
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Information and Instructions > Page 9544
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 1 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9545
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 2 Of 3)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9546
Circuit Identification For In-Line And Fuse Box Connectors (Part 3 Of 3)
How to Use
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Information and Instructions > Page 9547
In-Line-Connector Circuit Identification
Use this chart to help diagnose multiple symptoms in separate circuits which could be caused by a
single problem in a connector shared by those circuits.
1. Pick one of the multiple symptoms and look up the schematic for that circuit. 2. Make a list of all
in-line-connectors in that schematic. 3. Then, in this chart, look up each connector on your list to
see if circuits related to the other symptoms run through one of them. If they do, inspect
that connector for the problem.
Example: The horn, A/C, and the right headlight don't work. List all in-line-connectors in the horn
circuit and check this chart. You find that C211 is common to the A/C circuit and the headlight
circuit, so you inspect C211 and find the problem: bent terminals.
Power Distribution Schematics
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9548
Power Distribution Schematics-From Battery To Ignition Switch, Fuses,and Relays
From Battery to Ignition Switch, Fuses, and Relays Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse.
The first half of Power Distribution, however, shows the wiring "upstream" between the battery and
the fuses.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9549
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9550
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9551
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9552
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9553
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Components
Components
A solid border line means the entire component is shown.
Components
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A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects directly to the component.
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Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
This means power is supplied when the ignition switch is in ON (II).
Ground - "G"
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Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
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These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
Wire Color Abbreviations
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
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Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9559
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
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Symbols And Wire Color Code Identification
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Information and Instructions > Page 9561
Trunk Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
CONTROL UNIT DAMAGE
^ Do not try to disassemble the control unit.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
^ Never apply battery power to a component unless directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electronic Component Replacement
1. Before servicing electronic components, disconnect the battery ground.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- Don't disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
- When charging a battery, be sure battery cables are disconnected.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
Electrical Connections and Circuits
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
3. Do not use a self powered test lamp to check continuity.
4. Do not create any arcing to check the continuity of a circuit.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
DIGITAL VOLT/OHM METER
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Continuity and Resistance Check
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
3. Set the ohmmeter to the appropriate range.
Continuity And Resistance Check
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Finding Short Circuits
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9564
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
4. Establish conditions that turn the test lamp on.
EXAMPLE
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW ON and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW 1 and Relay ON (connect
the relay)
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Information and Instructions > Page 9565
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Information and Instructions > Page 9566
Test Equipment
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9567
While You're Working
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Short to Ground With Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Short to Ground With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Information and Instructions > Page 9568
Testing For a Short with A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Testing For A Short to Ground With A Test Light or DVOM
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Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information and Instructions > Page 9570
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Information and Instructions > Page 9571
Testing For Continuity
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9572
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Testing For Voltage
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Information and Instructions > Page 9573
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Testing For Voltage Drop
Testing For Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
or switch) closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Information and Instructions > Page 9575
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Information and Instructions > Page 9576
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
2. Establish conditions in which voltage should be present at the check point.
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Circuit Protection Devices
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fig. 1 Fuse Devices
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Information and Instructions > Page 9578
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Information and Instructions > Page 9579
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9580
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
Typical Electrical Repair
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION
- Locate the damaged wire.
- Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9581
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9582
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose, and
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9583
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
Step 1: Open the Harness
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9584
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool
Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9585
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Fig. 18 Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ See CONNECTOR TERMINAL I.D. to determine which type of connector is to be serviced.
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
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Information and Instructions > Page 9586
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
PUSH-TO-SEAT AND PULL-TO-SEAT
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
4. Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
6. Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9587
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
1. Separate the connector halves.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
7. Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
8. Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
5. Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
6. Hand crimp core wings.
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
8. Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9588
Trunk/Cargo Area Light
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Combination Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection
Combination Switch: Testing and Inspection
Combination Light Switch / Test
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Combination Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 9593
CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II),
or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit; the
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover and steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 4-P and 7-P
connectors from the switch. 3. Check the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good
contact. If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary,
and recheck the system.
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Relay > Component Information > Locations
Turn Signal Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection
Turn Signal Switch: Testing and Inspection
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 9600
CAUTION: All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any
part of an SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors. Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II),
or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit; the
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover and steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 4-P and 7-P
connectors from the switch. 3. Check the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good
contact. If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary,
and recheck the system.
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Turn Signals > Turn Signal Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 9601
Turn Signal Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover. 4. Remove steering
column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6. Remove two switch
attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Heated Glass Element Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Heated Glass Element Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Rear Defogger > Rear Defogger Relay > Component Information >
Locations
Rear Defogger Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Heated Glass Element Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Rear Defogger Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Rear Defogger Relay: Locations
Right Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Power Window Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Power Window Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Motor > Front Door Window Motor >
Component Information > Locations
Front Door Window Motor: Locations
Middle Of Driver's Door (Right Front Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Motor > Rear Door Window Motor >
Component Information > Locations
Rear Door Window Motor: Locations
Front Of Left Rear Door (Right Similar)
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Motor > Rear Door Window Motor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9629
Rear Door Window Motor: Service and Repair
Glass/Regulator Replacement
1. Remove:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Corner sash trim
2. Remove the mounting not and mounting bolt attaching the rear channel. 3. Carefully move the
glass until you can see the glass mounting bolts, then remove them. Carefully pull the glass out
through the window slot.
NOTE: - Take care not to drop the glass inside the door. - Take care not to damage locations (A) of
the glass run channel.
4. Peel the glass run channel Out of the rear channel, then remove the rear channel.
NOTE: After installing the rear channel, make sure the glass run channel is not twisted.
NOTE: To install, the glass run channel, fit it into the reat channel an shown.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Motor > Rear Door Window Motor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9630
5. Remove the two mounting bolts. Loosen the mounting bolt and three motor bolts. Disconnect the
connector (power window model). Remove the
regulator through the center hole in the door.
6. Grease all the sliding surfaces of the regulator where shown. Check that the regulator moves
smoothly by connecting the regulator handle or a 12
V battery to the power window motor.
7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 8. Roll the glass up and down to see if it
moves freely without binding. Also make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and
glass run
channel when the glass is closed. Adjust the position of the glass as necessary.
9. Attach the door harness to the door correctly.
10. When reinstalling the plastic cover, apply adhesive along the edge where necessary to
maintain a contentious seal and prevent water leaks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Relay > Component Information > Locations
Power Window Relay: Locations
Behind Left Side Of Dash
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Glass > Rear Door Window Glass > System
Information > Service and Repair
Rear Door Window Glass: Service and Repair
Glass/Regulator Replacement
1. Remove:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Corner sash trim
2. Remove the mounting not and mounting bolt attaching the rear channel. 3. Carefully move the
glass until you can see the glass mounting bolts, then remove them. Carefully pull the glass out
through the window slot.
NOTE: - Take care not to drop the glass inside the door. - Take care not to damage locations (A) of
the glass run channel.
4. Peel the glass run channel Out of the rear channel, then remove the rear channel.
NOTE: After installing the rear channel, make sure the glass run channel is not twisted.
NOTE: To install, the glass run channel, fit it into the reat channel an shown.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Glass > Rear Door Window Glass > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 9638
5. Remove the two mounting bolts. Loosen the mounting bolt and three motor bolts. Disconnect the
connector (power window model). Remove the
regulator through the center hole in the door.
6. Grease all the sliding surfaces of the regulator where shown. Check that the regulator moves
smoothly by connecting the regulator handle or a 12
V battery to the power window motor.
7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 8. Roll the glass up and down to see if it
moves freely without binding. Also make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and
glass run
channel when the glass is closed. Adjust the position of the glass as necessary.
9. Attach the door harness to the door correctly.
10. When reinstalling the plastic cover, apply adhesive along the edge where necessary to
maintain a contentious seal and prevent water leaks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Rear Door Window Regulator >
System Information > Service and Repair
Rear Door Window Regulator: Service and Repair
Glass/Regulator Replacement
1. Remove:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Corner sash trim
2. Remove the mounting not and mounting bolt attaching the rear channel. 3. Carefully move the
glass until you can see the glass mounting bolts, then remove them. Carefully pull the glass out
through the window slot.
NOTE: - Take care not to drop the glass inside the door. - Take care not to damage locations (A) of
the glass run channel.
4. Peel the glass run channel Out of the rear channel, then remove the rear channel.
NOTE: After installing the rear channel, make sure the glass run channel is not twisted.
NOTE: To install, the glass run channel, fit it into the reat channel an shown.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Rear Door Window Regulator >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 9643
5. Remove the two mounting bolts. Loosen the mounting bolt and three motor bolts. Disconnect the
connector (power window model). Remove the
regulator through the center hole in the door.
6. Grease all the sliding surfaces of the regulator where shown. Check that the regulator moves
smoothly by connecting the regulator handle or a 12
V battery to the power window motor.
7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 8. Roll the glass up and down to see if it
moves freely without binding. Also make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and
glass run
channel when the glass is closed. Adjust the position of the glass as necessary.
9. Attach the door harness to the door correctly.
10. When reinstalling the plastic cover, apply adhesive along the edge where necessary to
maintain a contentious seal and prevent water leaks.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Seal > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Window Seal: > 00-021 > Feb > 00 > Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle)
Window Seal: Customer Interest Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle)
00-021
February 1, 2000
Applies To: 1995-00 Civic - ALL
Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield (Replaces 95-056, dated March 2, 1999)
SYMPTOM A whistling or howling noise coming from the top, middle of the windshield at highway
speeds. The molding may also be deformed or loose.
PROBABLE CAUSE Vibration of the upper windshield molding.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply sealant under the entire length of the upper windshield molding.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 824003
Flat Rate Time: 0.5 hour
Failed Part: P/N 73150-S04-003 H/C 4779385
Defect Code: 056
Contention Code: B07
Template ID: 00-021A
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REQUIRED MATERIALS 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant:
(3M P/N 051135-08662)
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner:
(3M P/N 051135-08984)
DIAGNOSIS Drive the car at highway speeds to verify the noise. If you hear the noise, and its
frequency or volume changes when you push on the top of the windshield in front of the rear view
mirror, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Protect the roof by applying 2-inch-wide masking tape along the edge of the upper windshield
molding, and around the corners.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Seal > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Window Seal: > 00-021 > Feb > 00 > Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle) > Page 9652
2. Pull the rear edge of the upper windshield molding away from the roof (use a cotter pin puller or
similar tool), and apply a liberal amount of 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant underneath it. Apply
sealant along the entire masked-off area.
3. Push on the molding to smooth it out and to form a good seal.
4. After five minutes, remove the masking tape. Clean up any excess sealant with 3M General
Purpose Adhesive Cleaner.
5. To give the sealant time to cure, tell the customer not to wash the windshield for 24 hours.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Seal > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Window Seal: > 00-021 > Feb > 00 > Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle)
Window Seal: All Technical Service Bulletins Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle)
00-021
February 1, 2000
Applies To: 1995-00 Civic - ALL
Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield (Replaces 95-056, dated March 2, 1999)
SYMPTOM A whistling or howling noise coming from the top, middle of the windshield at highway
speeds. The molding may also be deformed or loose.
PROBABLE CAUSE Vibration of the upper windshield molding.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply sealant under the entire length of the upper windshield molding.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 824003
Flat Rate Time: 0.5 hour
Failed Part: P/N 73150-S04-003 H/C 4779385
Defect Code: 056
Contention Code: B07
Template ID: 00-021A
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REQUIRED MATERIALS 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant:
(3M P/N 051135-08662)
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner:
(3M P/N 051135-08984)
DIAGNOSIS Drive the car at highway speeds to verify the noise. If you hear the noise, and its
frequency or volume changes when you push on the top of the windshield in front of the rear view
mirror, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Protect the roof by applying 2-inch-wide masking tape along the edge of the upper windshield
molding, and around the corners.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Seal > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Window Seal: > 00-021 > Feb > 00 > Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle) >
Page 9658
2. Pull the rear edge of the upper windshield molding away from the roof (use a cotter pin puller or
similar tool), and apply a liberal amount of 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant underneath it. Apply
sealant along the entire masked-off area.
3. Push on the molding to smooth it out and to form a good seal.
4. After five minutes, remove the masking tape. Clean up any excess sealant with 3M General
Purpose Adhesive Cleaner.
5. To give the sealant time to cure, tell the customer not to wash the windshield for 24 hours.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Windshield: > 00-021 > Feb > 00 > Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle)
Windshield: Customer Interest Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle)
00-021
February 1, 2000
Applies To: 1995-00 Civic - ALL
Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield (Replaces 95-056, dated March 2, 1999)
SYMPTOM A whistling or howling noise coming from the top, middle of the windshield at highway
speeds. The molding may also be deformed or loose.
PROBABLE CAUSE Vibration of the upper windshield molding.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply sealant under the entire length of the upper windshield molding.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 824003
Flat Rate Time: 0.5 hour
Failed Part: P/N 73150-S04-003 H/C 4779385
Defect Code: 056
Contention Code: B07
Template ID: 00-021A
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REQUIRED MATERIALS 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant:
(3M P/N 051135-08662)
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner:
(3M P/N 051135-08984)
DIAGNOSIS Drive the car at highway speeds to verify the noise. If you hear the noise, and its
frequency or volume changes when you push on the top of the windshield in front of the rear view
mirror, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Protect the roof by applying 2-inch-wide masking tape along the edge of the upper windshield
molding, and around the corners.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Windshield: > 00-021 > Feb > 00 > Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle) > Page 9667
2. Pull the rear edge of the upper windshield molding away from the roof (use a cotter pin puller or
similar tool), and apply a liberal amount of 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant underneath it. Apply
sealant along the entire masked-off area.
3. Push on the molding to smooth it out and to form a good seal.
4. After five minutes, remove the masking tape. Clean up any excess sealant with 3M General
Purpose Adhesive Cleaner.
5. To give the sealant time to cure, tell the customer not to wash the windshield for 24 hours.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Windshield: > 95-056 > Sep > 97 > Body - Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield
Windshield: Customer Interest Body - Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield
Bulletin No. 95-056
Issue Date SEP 8, 1997
Model 1995-97 [NEW] CIVIC
Applicable To ALL
File Under BODY
Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield (Supersedes 95-056, dated December 18, 1995)
SYMPTOM A whistling or howling noise coming from the top, middle of the windshield at highway
speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE Vibration of the upper windshield molding.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation number: 824003
Flat rate time: 0.5 hour
Failed part: P/N 731 50-S04-003 H/C 4779385
Defect code: 056
Contention code: B07
Template ID: 97-001A
Skill level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REQUIRED MATERIALS 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant: (3M P/N 051135-08662)
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner: (3M P/N 051135-08984)
DIAGNOSIS Drive the car at highway speeds to verity the noise. If you hear the noise, and its
frequency or volume changes when you push on the top of the windshield in front of the rear view
mirror, continue with the CORRECTIVE ACTION.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply sealant under the entire length of the upper windshield molding.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Windshield: > 95-056 > Sep > 97 > Body - Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield > Page 9672
1. Protect the roof by applying 2-inch-wide masking tape along the edge of the upper windshield
molding, between the left and right roof moldings.
2. Pull the rear edge of the upper windshield molding away from the roof (use a cotter pin puller or
similar tool), and apply a liberal amount of 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant underneath it. Apply
sealant along the entire length of the upper windshield molding.
3. Push on the molding to smooth it out and to form a good seal.
4. Remove the masking tape, then clean up any excess sealant with 3M General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner.
5. To give the sealant time to cure, tell the customer not to wash the windshield for 24 hours.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 00-021 > Feb > 00 > Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle)
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle)
00-021
February 1, 2000
Applies To: 1995-00 Civic - ALL
Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield (Replaces 95-056, dated March 2, 1999)
SYMPTOM A whistling or howling noise coming from the top, middle of the windshield at highway
speeds. The molding may also be deformed or loose.
PROBABLE CAUSE Vibration of the upper windshield molding.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply sealant under the entire length of the upper windshield molding.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 824003
Flat Rate Time: 0.5 hour
Failed Part: P/N 73150-S04-003 H/C 4779385
Defect Code: 056
Contention Code: B07
Template ID: 00-021A
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REQUIRED MATERIALS 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant:
(3M P/N 051135-08662)
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner:
(3M P/N 051135-08984)
DIAGNOSIS Drive the car at highway speeds to verify the noise. If you hear the noise, and its
frequency or volume changes when you push on the top of the windshield in front of the rear view
mirror, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Protect the roof by applying 2-inch-wide masking tape along the edge of the upper windshield
molding, and around the corners.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 00-021 > Feb > 00 > Windshield - Wind Noise (Whistle) > Page 9678
2. Pull the rear edge of the upper windshield molding away from the roof (use a cotter pin puller or
similar tool), and apply a liberal amount of 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant underneath it. Apply
sealant along the entire masked-off area.
3. Push on the molding to smooth it out and to form a good seal.
4. After five minutes, remove the masking tape. Clean up any excess sealant with 3M General
Purpose Adhesive Cleaner.
5. To give the sealant time to cure, tell the customer not to wash the windshield for 24 hours.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 95-056 > Sep > 97 > Body - Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield
Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield
Bulletin No. 95-056
Issue Date SEP 8, 1997
Model 1995-97 [NEW] CIVIC
Applicable To ALL
File Under BODY
Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield (Supersedes 95-056, dated December 18, 1995)
SYMPTOM A whistling or howling noise coming from the top, middle of the windshield at highway
speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE Vibration of the upper windshield molding.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation number: 824003
Flat rate time: 0.5 hour
Failed part: P/N 731 50-S04-003 H/C 4779385
Defect code: 056
Contention code: B07
Template ID: 97-001A
Skill level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REQUIRED MATERIALS 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant: (3M P/N 051135-08662)
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner: (3M P/N 051135-08984)
DIAGNOSIS Drive the car at highway speeds to verity the noise. If you hear the noise, and its
frequency or volume changes when you push on the top of the windshield in front of the rear view
mirror, continue with the CORRECTIVE ACTION.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply sealant under the entire length of the upper windshield molding.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windshield > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Windshield: > 95-056 > Sep > 97 > Body - Wind Whistle at the Top of the Windshield > Page
9683
1. Protect the roof by applying 2-inch-wide masking tape along the edge of the upper windshield
molding, between the left and right roof moldings.
2. Pull the rear edge of the upper windshield molding away from the roof (use a cotter pin puller or
similar tool), and apply a liberal amount of 3M Black Super Silicone Sealant underneath it. Apply
sealant along the entire length of the upper windshield molding.
3. Push on the molding to smooth it out and to form a good seal.
4. Remove the masking tape, then clean up any excess sealant with 3M General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner.
5. To give the sealant time to cure, tell the customer not to wash the windshield for 24 hours.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems >
Windshield Washer Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Windshield Washer Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove steering column covers. 3. Disconnect 8-P and 6-P connectors from wiper switch.
Fig. 9 Wiper/Washer Switch Continuity Chart
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 9.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems >
Windshield Washer Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 9689
Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower cover. 3. Remove upper and lower steering column covers from
steering column. 4. Disconnect 8-P and 6-P connectors from wiper switch. 5. Remove two
attaching screws and slide wiper switch out of housing. 6. Reverse procedure to install. 7. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Wiper Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove steering column covers. 3. Disconnect 8-P and 6-P connectors from wiper switch.
Fig. 9 Wiper/Washer Switch Continuity Chart
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 9.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 9693
Wiper Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover. 4. Remove steering
column upper cover. 5. Disconnect electrical connectors. 6. Remove wiper/washer switch attaching
screws, then the switch. 7. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded
theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield Washer Motor > Component Information >
Locations
Windshield Washer Motor: Locations
Inside Left Front Wheel Well
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield Washer Motor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9697
Windshield Washer Motor: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove front bumper. 2. Disconnect 2-P connector from washer motor. 3. Test front and rear
washer motor operation by connecting battery positive to positive (A) terminal of pump and battery
negative to negative
terminal (B) of pump. If pump fails to run smoothly, replace.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield Washer Pump > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Windshield Washer Pump: Service and Repair
1. Remove front bumper, then disconnect washer hose and 2-P connectors from front and rear
washer motors. 2. Remove three mounting bolts and washer reservoir. 3. Reverse procedure to
install.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield Washer Reservoir > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Windshield Washer Reservoir: Service and Repair
1. Remove front bumper, then disconnect washer hose and 2-P connectors from front and rear
washer motors. 2. Remove three mounting bolts and washer reservoir. 3. Reverse procedure to
install.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield Washer Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection
Windshield Washer Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove steering column covers. 3. Disconnect 8-P and 6-P connectors from wiper switch.
Fig. 9 Wiper/Washer Switch Continuity Chart
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 9.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield Washer Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 9707
Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower cover. 3. Remove upper and lower steering column covers from
steering column. 4. Disconnect 8-P and 6-P connectors from wiper switch. 5. Remove two
attaching screws and slide wiper switch out of housing. 6. Reverse procedure to install. 7. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Locations > Rear
Window Wiper Motor
Wiper Motor: Locations Rear Window Wiper Motor
Bottom Of Hatch
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Locations > Rear
Window Wiper Motor > Page 9712
Wiper Motor: Locations Photo 25
Behind Left Side Of Air Scoop
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
> Front Wiper Motor
Wiper Motor: Testing and Inspection Front Wiper Motor
Fig. 13 Front Wiper Motor Connector Terminal Identification
1. Disconnect 5-P connector at wiper motor, Fig. 13. 2. Connect battery positive to D terminal and
negative to B terminal. Motor should run smoothly at low speed. If it does not, replace motor. 3.
Connect battery positive to D terminal and negative to A terminal. Motor should run smoothly at
high speed. If it does not, replace motor.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
> Front Wiper Motor > Page 9715
Wiper Motor: Testing and Inspection Rear Wiper Motor
1. Remove hatch trim panel.
Fig. 16 Rear Wiper Motor Connector Terminal Identification
2. Disconnect 4-P connector at wiper motor, Fig. 16. 3. Connect battery positive to No. 2 terminal
and negative to No. 4 terminal. Motor should run smoothly. If it does not, repair or replace as
necessary.
Fig. 17 Rear Wiper Motor Continuity Chart
4. Check for continuity between terminals according to table, Fig. 17.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Front Wiper Motor
Wiper Motor: Service and Repair Front Wiper Motor
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Open hood and remove wiper arm retaining nuts and wiper
arms. 4. Unsnap clips carefully with a screwdriver and remove air scoop complete with hood
sealing rubber. 5. Disconnect wiring harness at motor. 6. Remove wiper linkage bolts, then the
linkage assembly. 7. Remove mounting bolts and nut from wiper linkage, then remove wiper motor.
8. Reverse procedure to install. 9. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Front Wiper Motor > Page 9718
Wiper Motor: Service and Repair Rear Wiper Motor
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove hatch trim cover. 4. Remove cover and wiper arm
attaching nut, then the wiper arm. 5. Remove cap, nut and washers from wiper arm shaft. 6.
Remove rubber seal from wiper arm shaft, then disconnect wiper motor electrical connector. 7.
Remove three wiper motor attaching bolts and wiper motor. 8. Reverse procedure to install. 9. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Honda Civic Sedan Workshop Manual (L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve) (1995))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Switch > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
Wiper Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove steering column covers. 3. Disconnect 8-P and 6-P connectors from wiper switch.
Fig. 9 Wiper/Washer Switch Continuity Chart
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 9.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.